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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
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the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


^ 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 


D 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

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Bound  with  other  material/ 
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along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  4t6  filmies. 


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de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
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sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
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I      I    Pages  damaged/ 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 
D 


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Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul<6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
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Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 


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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalemen'  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiiiet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

0 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ire 

details 
168  du 
modifier 
ler  une 
filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanlts 
to  the  generosity  of: 

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Photoduplication  Service 

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L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grlkce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6X6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


f 
i6es 


lire 


Original  copies  In  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —»►  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  filmds  en  commenqant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitro  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signlfie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  §tre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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p'HOICE    PUBLICATIONS 

^^-^  FOR  ALL  GRADES  OF  5Ci 


:»! 


J^HE  NORMAL  MUSIC  COURSM  M 

,   J,  By  JOHN  W.  TUFTS  and  H.  E.  HOLT. 

^       H  -  A  complete  Series  of  Music  Readers  and  Charts  for  every  grad«  a£'i 

a       R  uutniction  in  Tocai  mutio.  ,^ , 

T^HE  NORMAL  COURSE  IN  RE^ 

hjRMMA  y.  TODD,  TriS^^Ttachtrintlu  PuilkSckttit  t/AuniMtr^ 
POH^£LL,  aM,  iuptHiUendtnt  of  Schoolt,  WmMhington,  D^, 

■A  Mria  of  Roading  Books  prepared  in  acooitJbUlee  with^hr  best  edacattoiMtia 
>•  of  the  day.    (In  ^tn.)  -;,^v^^ 


T^HE    NORMAL    REVIEW    SV^l 


WRITING. 

ri'itr'V 


^ 


Bf  D.  tf.  FAgiiejf,  Pnif.  (if  PenmanMip  in  Stalt  tftrmal  SclkM  ^ 
Trtntait,  and  W.  B.  ^VffJflSQJf^  Prin.  of  PtMit  School  No,/i^i 

rth  of  long  special  experMec''' ^  Jiu 
.«[|Mkoae  in  Rtgiilar  SekmHiM%^ 


This  system  of  wr''''xtf  is  t)ie 
combiaod  Wi^^-l;|tge  ] 


THE  ¥mmQ^LlCS^  I^IMRARYm 

Edited  h  LAKltm  DVIfTOtr,  U.-D^  .U^||i^«IS^ 

A  choice  jiiiries  of  volume*  for  tmy^itniifttttt  li^jmm,  ^tt^Ki  al|M,^m#<M| 
■<V&  ence  10  thair  h<t<iru||M|/»Tn  iwi  edu<»tjj^ 


Wm&W^SW:W^^!B'-: 


'mmmssmtMKsmmit^r^>^M. . 


'ii'-HiiUM-  ,in,  .!■  .iinniiiti'' tt'i'i."'.'^"    ''jsi 

^lO/ERnURDETT1&  CO  •  FU©L) 

'■•Nu^  YOPK-    .  -BOSTON-- ;^?:CHI( 


■^r*c:  ■# 


M 


lii' 


THE 


Young  Folks'  Library 

FOR   SCHOOL   AND    HOME. 

EDITED    BY 

LARKIN       DUNTON,      LL.D., 
UBAD  MASTER  OP  THK  BOSTON   NORMAL  SCUOOL. 


Volume  vm. 


THE 


Young  Folks'  Library, 

Edited  by  LARKIN  DUNTON,  LL.D., 

HEAD  MASTER  OF  THE  UOSTON  NORMAL  SCHOOU 

T^ESIGNEU  to  supplement  the  ordinary  school  reading-books  with  valu- 
•»--'  able  practice  in  reading,  and  at  the  same  time  to  reiinforce  the  instruc- 
tion in  special  lines  of  school  study  with  useful  information  and  choice 
selections  from  the  best  literature. 


Stories  of  Child  Life. 

y<A.  I.  -  Book  I.  — AT  HOME. 

Vol.  2.  -  Book  11.— AT  PLAY. 

Vol.  3.  -  Book  III.  — IN  THE  COUNTRY.      - 

Vol.  4.  -  Book  IV. —AT  SCHOOL. 

Tiie  World  and  its  People. 


24  cts. 
30  cts. 
36  cts. 
42  cts. 


Vol.  5.      -        Book  I.  —  FIRST  LESSONS.  -       -  36  cts. 

Vol.  6.      -        Book  II.  — GLIMPSES  OF  THE  WORLD.  36  cts. 

Vol.  7.      -        Book  III. —  OUR  OWN  COUNTRY.         -  soots. 

Vol.  8.      -        Book  IV.— OUR  AMERICAN  NEIGHBORS.  60 cts. 
Other  Volumes  will  follow  at  freqwjnt  internals. 


-1  i 


THE 


'ARV, 


WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


loks  will)  v.ilu- 
L-e  the  instruc- 
in  and  choice 


24  cts. 
30  cts. 
36  cts. 
42  cts. 


•H 


Book  IV. 

OUR  AMERICAN  NEIOHBORS. 


»Y 


FANNY  E.  COE. 


EDITED    BT 


LARKIN   DUNTON,  LL.D., 

UEAD  MASTEn  OF  THE   BOSTON  NOIIMAI,  8C1IOOI,. 


36  cts. 
D.      36  cts. 

50  cts. 
RS.    60  eta. 


} 


'i-C 


SILVER,   BURDETT  &  CO.,   PUBLISHERS, 

New  Yohk  .  .  .  BOSTON  .  .  .  Chicago. 

1891. 


%    •■  )■' 


/ 


.^X? 


COPTRIQHT,  1891, 

Br  SILVER,  BURDETT  &  00. 


Ttpoqraphy  by  J.  8.  CusHiNO  &  Co.,  Boston, 


Prbsswouk  iiv  Ubkwr'K  &  Smith,  Boston. 


M 


^/ 


•4:  J 


PUBLISHERS'  ANNOUNCEMENT. 


It  is  HOW  ooncedod  by  all  educators  that  school  in- 
struotion  should  l)«  suppleinoiitcd  by  roadiujj;  matter  suit- 
able for  use  by  the  pupil  both  in  the  school  and  in  the 
home.  Whoever  looks  for  such  reading,  however,  must 
be  struck,  at  first  with  the  abundance  of  what  is  offered 
to  schools  and  parents,  and  then  with  its  lack  of  sys- 
tematic arrangement,  and  its  consequent  ill  ada[)tation  to 
the  needs  of  young  people. 

It  is  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  this  defect,  that 
the  publishers  have  decided  to  issue  a  series  of  volumes, 
under  the  general  title  of  the  Young  Folks'  Lib'iauy 
FOR  School  and  Home. 

These  books  are  intended  to  meet  the  needs  of  all 
children  and  youth  of  school  age;  from  those  who  have 
just  mastered  their  first  primer,  to  those  who  are  about 
to  finish  the  high  school  course.  Some  of  the  volumes 
will  supplement  the  ordinary  school  readers,  as  a  means 
of  teaching  reading;  some  will  reenforce  the  instruction 
in    geography,   history,   biography,   and    natural    science; 


6 


PUBLISHERS'   ANNOUNCEMENT. 


wliilc  otlicrs  will  lie  spcciiiUy  tlcsijjiicd  to  cultivatf  a 
tiisti!  for  f,'(K)(l  littu'iituif.  All  will  stTvo  to  tlovelop 
powiT   in   tlu'   usi!   of   tho   mother   toiigiu). 

Tho  iiiattiT  for  tho  variouH  voliimt's  will  li(>  so  care- 
fiiUy  st'lt'ctfd  and  so  jndicionsly  graded,  that  the  various 
volumes  will  be  adapted  to  tho  needs  and  capacities  of 
all  for  whom  they  aro  designed;  while  their  literary 
merit,  it  is  hoped,  will  ho  suHicicnt  to  make  them  de- 
Kcrvo  a  i)laco  upon  tho  sholvos  of  any  well  selected 
collection   of   juvenile  works. 

Each  V(dumo  of  tho  Yoi  \<i  Folks'  Liiirauv  will  be 
prepared  by  some  one  of  our  ablest  writers  for  young 
people,  ,uid  all  will  bo  carefully  edited  by  Larkin  Dun- 
ton,  LL.l).,  Head  Master  of   the  Boston   Normal   School. 

Tho  ]mblishers   intend  to  make  this    Lihuaky  at  once 

attractive  and  instructive;  they  therefore  commend  these 

volumes,   with  cr  .  '.dence,   to   teachers,    parents,    and    all 

others  who  are  charged  with   the  duty  of  directing   the 

education  of  the  young. 

SILVER,  BURDErr  &  CO. 


tiviitt>    a 
develop 


wmtm 


so   ciirt'- 
'  various 
cities  of 
literary 
sliein  de- 
selected 

will  be 
)r  youiiK' 
An  Duii- 
1   School. 

at  once 
nd  these 

and  all 
ting   the 

'  &  CO. 


PR  K  FACE. 


This  book  is  designed  to  be  read,  either  at  school  or  at 
home,  in  connection  witli  the  systematic  stiuly  of  America. 
It  may  be  used  as  a  preparation  for  such  study,  as  a  means 
of  reenforcing  the  instruction  wliile  it  is  going  on,  or  as 
a  m((ans  of  creating  clearer  knowledge  of  and  deeper 
interest  in  the  countries  already  studied. 

When  pupils  have  become  fairly  familiar  with  the  geog- 
raphy of  the  United  States,  their  attention  should  be 
directed  to  the  homes  of  our  American  neighbors, — 
Canada,  Mexico,  Central  America,  and  South  America. 
The  study  of  these  countries  should  constitute  the  intro- 
duction to  the  study  of  foreign  geography.  Even  in 
these  countries,  the  plants,  animals,  people,  and  the 
characteristics  of  life,  both  rural  and  in  the  city,  are 
all  new.  Hence,  surprise  and  delight  should  attend  the 
reading  of  the  first  book  i)ertaining  to  these  countries. 
This,  it  is  hoped,  will  be  the  result  of  reading  this  little 
book. 

Great  pains  has  been  taken  to  secure  accuracy  of  state- 
ment in  regard  to  matters  of  fact,  and,  at  the  same  time, 

7 


8 


PREFACE. 


to  make  the  word  pictures  so  vivid  as  to  kindle  the 
imagination  of  the  pnpil,  and  thus  to  put  him  into  syni- 
patliy  with  the  people  of  whom  lie  reads.  The  hook 
deals  with  live  men  more  than  with  the  dead  earth. 

Teachers  and  parents  are  advised  to  insist  upon  having 
the  children  read  with  a  large  wall  map  or  an  atlas  con- 
stantly hefore  them.  The  pictures  of  life  and  places, 
which  are  formed,  will  then  be  connected  with  the  coun- 
tries Avhcre  the  life  really  exists.  By  this  means  a 
beginning  will  be  made  in  forming  a  conception  of  the 

world  as  it  is. 

LAKKIN   DUNTON. 
UosTON,  June  30,  1891. 


mmrnt. 


J    kindle    the 

iiii  into  sym- 

The   book 

id  earth. 

npon  liaving 

an  athis  con- 

and  places, 

ith  the  coun- 

lis    means    a 

ption  of  the 

N  DUNTON. 


CONTENTS. 


CANADA^ 

CHAPTER 

1.     A  Bird's-eye  View  of  Canada  ....  13 

II.     The  Fisherman's  Life 15 

III.  Pictures  of  ^STew  Brunswick  ani>  Nova 

Scotia 25 

IV.  The  Island  City  of  Canada 3.5 

V.     Winter  in  Canada 49 

VI.     Through  the  Great  Lakes C8 

VII.     Down  the  St.  Lawrence 83 

VIII.     Quaint  Old  Quebec 93 

IX.     French  C.vnadian  Farm  Life     ....  108 

X.     The  Lumberman's  Life 120 

XI.     The  Canadian  Prairie 131 

XIL     Beyond  the  Kocky  Mountains  ....  143 

MEXICO. 

XIII.  A  Bird's-Eye  View  of  Mexico    ....  151 

XIV.  By  Rail  to  the  City  of  Mexico    .     .     .  154 
XV.     In  the  Capital jgg 

XVI.     Down  into  the  Hot  Lands 181 

CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

XVIL    The  Tiny  Republics  op  North  America  .  197 

SOUTH  AMERICA. 

-XVIII.     A  Bird's-Eye  View  of  South  America   .  219 

XIX.     The  Great  Republic  of  the  South    .     .  222 

9 


10 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


CUAPTBR 

XX. 

XXI. 

XXII. 

XXIII. 

XXIV. 


FAOK 

In  the  Vallky  of  tiik  La  Plata   .     .     .  -4U 

Hkyond  tiik  Anuks ii<W 

Pkku  and  lioijyiA 287 

In  EyuADOR  and  Columbia 30."? 

Vknezukla  and  Guiana 313 


LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Niagaka  

Montreal     

The  Ice  Palace    .... 
A  ToHotKJAN  Spill    .     .     . 
Parliament  Buildings,  Ottaw 
The  City  Hall,  Winnepec;  . 
The  Douolas  Pine   .... 
Mount  Popocatapetl    .     .     . 
A  Patient  Bukro     .... 
The  Cathedral  of  Mexico  . 
The  National  Palace,  Mexico 
The  Castle  of  Chapultepec 
A  Native  Residence  in  the  Hot 
The  City  of  Vera  Cruz  .     . 

Mahogany  Logs 

The  Water  Carrier    .     .     . 

An  Adobe  House 

The  Royal  Palms,  Rio  Janei 
Landing  Steps  at  Bahia 
Bay  of  Rio  Janeiro     .     .     . 
A  Railroad  Bridge  in  Chile 
The  Plaza  of  Valparaiso    . 
Street  Scene  in  Lima  .     .     . 


Ca 


RO 


NADA 


Country 


12 
37 
52 
65 
87 
135 
140 
150 
IGO 
168 
171 
175 
190 
192 
196 
207 
215 
218 
239 
241 
274 
283 
295 


'*^;:-^ 


24U 
287 
313 


12 
37 
52 
65 
87 
135 
140 
150 
100 
108 
171 
175 
190 
192 
190 
207 
215 
218 
239 
241 
274 
283 
295 


OUR  AMERICAN  NEIGHBORS, 


CANADA. 


12 


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OUR  AMERICAN  NEIGHBORS. 


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CHAPTER  I. 
A  BIRD'8-KYE   VIEW  01-'  CANADA. 

North  of  the  United  States  li(*s  a  country  very  nearly 
as  hirge  as  our  own.  It  belongs  to  Great  Britain,  and 
is  known  as  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 

It  extends  from  the  northern  boundary  of  the  United 
States  northward  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  stretches,  in 
an  easterly  and  westerly  direction,  from  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  to  the  Pacific.  The  Atlantic  coast  of  Canada  is 
so  far  from  the  Pacific  coast,  that  when  the  children 
in  Halifax  are  rushing  out  of  school  .at  twelve  o'clock, 
the  children  of  New  Westminster,  in  British  Columbia, 
are  eating  their  early  seven  o'clock  breakfast. 

The  coast  of  Canada  is  much  indented,  and  is  bordered 
with  many  islands.  With  the  exception  of  the  western 
coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  every  coast  of  Canada 
is  bare  and  thinly  settled.  Hudson  Bay  is  the  largest 
indentation,  and  may  be  said  to  divide  the  country  into 
two  regions,  —  the  older  and  more  thickly  settled  region 
lying  to  the  east,  and  tlic;  newer  and  more  thinly  settled 
region  lying  to  the  west. 

13 


14 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


The  greater  part  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  consists 
of  a  VJist,  level  plain,  which  lies  hetween  two  boidering 
ranges  of  mountains.  The  Laurentian  Mountains,  very 
little  more  than  five  thousand  feet  in  lieight,  are  on  the 
east.  A  plateau  f(mr  tliousaiul  feet  in  height,  across 
whicli  the  Rocky  Mountains  aiul  other  parallel  ranges 
run  from  north  to  south,  is  the  western  boundary  of 
the  plain. 

The  central  plain  of  Canada  has  two  slopes,  —  one 
toward  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  the  other  toward  Hudson 
Bay.  The  Arctic  slope  occupies  the  northern  half  of 
the  i)lain,  and  the  Hudson  Bay  slope  the  southern  and. 
eastern  sections.  The*  Mackenzie  River,  with  its  bare 
and  desolate  shores,  drains  the  Arctic  slope.  The  Sas- 
katchewan River,  with  its  continuation,  the  Nelson,  is 
the  largest  river  in  the  Hudson  Bay  system. 

Down  the  eastward  slopes  of  the  Laurentian"  Moun- 
tains flow  the  smaller  rivers  of  the  St.  Lawrence  system. 
West  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  the  rivers  of  the 
Pacific  slope. 

If  we  should  follow  the  forty-ninth  parallel  of  latitude 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  we  should  pass  through 
five  regions  of  the  country.  First,  would  come  the 
provinces  of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  where 
fishing  smacks  ride  at  anchor  in  the  harbors,  and  where 
fish  and  nets  are  seen  drying  along  the  beaches.  This 
is  the  great  fishing  district  of  the  country.  Then  fol- 
lows the  farming  district,  along  the  lower  part  of  the 
river  St.  Lawrence. 

Thirdly,  we  enter  the  great  forests  of  Canada,  which 
extend  westerly  for  a  thousand  miles.     Formerly  there 


i 


OUR   AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


16 


la  consists 
boi'dering 
tains,  very 
are  on  the 
jht,  across 
liel  ranges 
lundary  of 

pes,  —  one 
•d  Hudson 
rn  half  of 
ithern  and 
;h  its  bare 
The  Sas- 
Nelson,  is 

ian"  Moun- 
ce  system, 
srs  of  the 

of  latitude 
ss  through 

come  the 
tia,  where 
and  where 
hes.    This 

Then  fol- 
lart  of  the 

fida,  which 
lerly  there 


was  no  sound  of  liuman  labor  to  be  hoard  in  this  vast 
solitude,  but  now  the  perfect  hush  is  broken  in  all  direc- 
tions by  tiie  blows  of  the  lunibernmn's  axe  and  the  buzz 
of  his  saw. 

Succeeding  the  forest  is  the  prairie,  a  great  expanse 
of  level  and  rolling  land,  strctdiiiig  lifteen  hundred 
nules  away  to  the  foothills  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Last  of  all  comes  a  stretch  of  six  hundred  miles  of 
mountains  and  plateaus,  which  make  up  the  greater 
part  of  British  Columbia. 

The  most  important  cities  of  Canada  are  on  the  Great 
Lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Tliey  are  nearly  all 
situated  in  the  large  V-like  peninsula  which  Canada 
thrusts  southward  into  the  United  States. 

Labrador  and  that  part  of  the  Northwest  Territory 
which  lies  north  of  Peace  River  are  cold  and  dreary 
regions  with  scanty  vegetation.  Fur-bearing  animals 
abound ;  and  the  single  production  is  fui-s,  which  are 
collected  by  the  trappers  with  great  toil  and  patience. 


CHAPTER  IL 
THE  FISHERMAN'S  LIFE. 


Newfoundland  may  be  called  the  province  of  the  fish- 
erman ;  because  the  census  showed  some  years  ago  that 
fully  one-half  of  the  population  was  engaged  in  catching 
fish,  and  in  salting  or  otherwise  preparing  them  for  the 
market.     The  fisheries  form  a  chief  source  of  wealth  to 


16 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


the  other  provinces  of  Canada  on  tlie  Atlantic  const,— 
to  New  Biunawick,  Nova  Scotia,  Cape  Breton  Island, 
and  Prince  Edward  Island. 

The  fisheries  of  these  provinces  may  Ik)  divided  into 
the  in-shoro  fisheries  and  the  deepsea  fisheries.  The 
shore  fisherman  leads  a  very  easy,  safe  life,  when  com- 
pared with  the  deep-sea  fisherman.  lie  rarely  sails  his 
two-masted  little  schooner  more  than  three  miles  from 
shore.  He  is  always  within  easy  reach  of  the  harbors ; 
and  if  one  of  those  sudden  storms  should  arise,  wUich 
are  very  frequent  in  this  part  of  the  Atlantic,  he  can 
quickly  find  a  place  of  safety. 

Cod  and  herring  are  most  abundant  in  the  in-shore 
waters.  Formerly  mackerel  were  plentiful;  but  fifty 
yearu  ago  they  left  the  Dominion  seas,  and  have  not 
since  returned.  Probably  they  found  better  feeding 
grounds  somewhere  else.  You  see  these  -fish  are  very 
intelligent.  Where  the  little  fish  upon  which  they  feed 
go,  there  they  follow.  Sometimes  the  cod  are  most 
abundant  on  the  esist  coast  of  Newfoundland,  sometimes 
on  the  west.  For  these  great  shoals  of  cod  are  swayed 
from  east  to  west  by  the  movements  of  a  beautiful  little 
fish  no  larger  than  your  hand.     This  is  the  caplin. 

Early  in  June  shoals  of  caplin  begin  to  enter  the  har- 
bors and  rivers  of  Newfoundland  and  the  other  prov- 
inces. The  cod  leave  the  colder  watei-s  of  the  deep  sea, 
and  follow  the  caplin  to  the  shallow,  warmer  water  of 
the  shore.  Then  for  the  next  five  months  the  fishermen 
are  busy. 

During  June  and  July  the  caplin  are  used  for  bait ; 
but  when  they  have  returned  to  the  sea,  the  fishermen 


i^m 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


17 


.tlantiC  const, — 
Breton  Island, 

l)e  divided  into 
fisheries.  The 
life,  when  com- 
rarely  sails  his 
hree  miles  from 
of  the  harbors; 
nld  arise,  which 
Atlantic,  he  can 

i  in  the  in-shore 
itiful ;  but  fifty 
8,  and  have  not 
I  better  feeding 
!8e  iish  are  very 

which  they  feed 
le  cod  are  most 
Hand,  sometimes 

cod  are  swayed 
a  beautiful  little 

the  caplin. 
to  enter  the  har- 
.  the  other  prov- 
i  of  the  deep  sea, 
warmer  water  of 
ths  the  fishermen 

re  used  for  bait; 
ea,  the  fishermen 


are  at  no  loss,  for  slioiils  of  K([nid  have  come  to  take  tlio 
pliice  of  the  ciipliii.  You  riMiu'uiber  the  squid,  do  you 
not?  Hc!  is  an  ugly,  spotted  creature,  with  many  loiifr, 
S(piirniin,L,f  urnis,  and  great,  horriltle,  staring  »'s.  He  is 
a  choice  morsel  to  the  cod,  liowever,  wiiich  feasts  as 
greedily  upon  liiiu  as  lie  did  a  moiitli  before  upon  the 
graceful  little  caitliii.  When  the  sipiid  fail  tosni)ply  bait, 
the  lierring  are  used;  and  llieii,  with  their  leturn  to  the 
ocean  at  the  end  of  October,  the  in-shorc  cod  lishiug 
closes. 

The  deep-sea  fisherman  ratlicr  despises  the  shore  fish- 
erman. He  looks  down  upon  his  easy,  suuniier  work ; 
for  he  hiuiscir,  in  tiie  depths  of  winter,  iislies  for  cod 
and  halibut  i'nr  away  on  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 
The  Banks,  as  they  are  called,  are  shallow  places  in  the 
oce;in  wh"re  the  bed  of  the  sea  rises,  in  places,  to  within 
ninety  feet  of  its  surface. 

They  have  been  huudicds  and  probably  thousands  of 
years  in  forming.  Two  mighty  agents,  the  Arctic  Cur- 
rent and  the  (Julf  Stream,  liave  united  to  construct 
these  Banks,  which  have  really  become  the  treasury  of 
the  Canadian  fisherman.  The  Arctic  Current  flows 
down  from  icy  BaBin's  Bay,  past  the  chilly  shores  of 
Labrador  and  the  east  coast  of  Newfoundland.  South- 
east of  Newfoundland  it  meets  the  warm  Gulf  Stream, 
whose  sparkling  blue  waters  come  dancing  up  from  the 
far  south,  —  from  the  tropical  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the 
shores  of  balmy  Florida. 

The  Gulf  Stream  bears  along,  in  solution,  innumer- 
able tiny  atoms  of  nuul,  which  the  Mississippi  River 
has  carried  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.    In  the  chill  shock 


■***,? 


18 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


of  meeting  the  Arctic  Curront,  this  fine  nnul  is  deposited 
on  the  oeean  bed;  for  it  is  only  a  waini  current  which 
can  .tarry  ahmg  much  matter  in  sohition,  and  the  Clulf 
Stream  is  now  many  degrees  cohler  tlian  when  it  set  out 
from  the  sunny  (Julf  on  its  nortiiward  jt)urnoy. 

Icebergs  (hift  soutlnvard  on  the  Arctic;  Current.  An 
iceberg  is  a  huge  mass,  consisting  not  only  of  ice,  but 
also  of  fragments  of  earth  and  stone.  The  (Julf  Stream 
iiults  tho  icebergs,  and  the  earthy  matter  sinks  into  the 
de[)th  of  the  sea. 

Millions  of  tiny,  shelled  animals  float  in  the  two 
currents ;  and  when  these  little  animals  die,  their  shcdls 
sink  and  help  to  build  up  the  rising  bed  of  the  oeean. 

Ages  and  ages  of  such  depositions  have  raised  the 
ocean  bed  in  this  place,  until  now  it  is  only  from  one 
hundred  to  five  hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  tlu;  sea. 
Thou  hosta  of  purple  jellyfish,  scaly  sUirlish,  delicate 
sea  anemones,  and  clumsy  mussels,  clams,  and  oysters 
come  to  make  their  home  on  the  rocks  in  this  shallow 
part  of  tho  sea.  Their  presence  attracts  the  cod,  hali- 
but, and  other  fish;  diving  birds  are  drawn  to  the  spot 
to  feast  upon  the  iish  ;  and  linally,  Canadian,  American, 
and  French  fishermen  come  to  contest  the  ground  with 
the  wild  birds.  Thus  the  Banks  have  become  what 
they  are  at  the  present  day. 

They  stretch  three  hundred  miles  southeasterly  into 
the  open  Atlantic,  and  are  known  by  different  names. 
Grand  Bank  and  Georges  Bank  are  perhaps  the  most 
important.  Others  are  Sable  Island  Bank,  Green  Bank, 
and  Saint  Peter's  Bank. 

The  vessel  of  the  deep-sea  fisherman,  or  banker,  as 


''^'^1^ 


is  (k'liositod 
noiit  which 
id  the  Ciulf 
!U  it  set  out 

irrcnt.  An 
,'  of  ice,  hut 
lulf  Stroani 
nks  into  the 

in  the  two 
,  their  ahMa 
Aid  ocean. 
i  raised  the 
ly  from  one 
;!  of  the  sea. 
iish,  delicate 
and  oysters 
this  shallow 
-he  cod,  hali- 
i  to  the  spot 
1,  American, 
ground  with 
lecome  what 

easterly  into 
arent  names, 
ips  the  most 
Green  Bank, 

»r  banker,  as 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


19 


lie  is  culled,  dilTcrs  from  the  vessel  of  the  in-shore  fisher- 
man in  having,'  a  deck.  Often  the  vessel  is  built  in 
three  compartments.  The  central  com[»artment  is  called 
the  well,  because  it  is  nearly  filled  with  water,  which 
enters  thiongh  auger-holes  in  the  bottom  of  the  schooner. 
The  Iish  which  are  caught  and  seem  likely  to  live,  are 
placed  ill  this  well  and  rc-maiii  there  swimming  about 
in  their  dark,  cool,  watery  prison  all  the  time  that  the 
vessel  is  on  the  Manks. 

The  little  craft  is  well  supplied  with  ice,  bait,  and 
the  best  provisions  the  market  affords.  Many  tons  of 
ice  are  necessary  even  in  winter;  for,  at  the  close  of  the 
day,  all  the  fish  not  placed  in  the  well  on  being  taken 
from  the  water  must  be  packed  in  ice  in  order  to 
preserve  them. 

Sometimes  "  salt-trips "  are  made,  and  then  salt  is 
carried  in  the  place  of  ice,  and  the  fish  aie  salted  down, 
or  cured,  as  the  men  say.  The  usual  bait  is  whelks, 
or  snails.  One  smack  carries  about  eight  hundred  gal- 
lons of  bait.  The  whelks  are  kept  in  nets  in  the  well 
until  wanted.  Then  they  are  drawn  out,  the  hard  shells 
are  broken,  and  the  hooks  baited  with  the  tough,  tleshy 
animals. 

You  know,  on  board  a  man-of-war  or  a  merchantman, 
the  captain  is  king.  lie  is  an  absolute  monarch,  a  Czar. 
lie  has  his  cabin  in  the  best  part  of  the  ship,  and  none 
of  the  crew  dare  address  him  without  permission.  But 
it  is  very  different  on  a  fishing  vessel.  This  little  float- 
ing world  is  a  republic  of  the  kind  that  the  French 
strove  for,  when  they  chose,  as  their  watchwords,  liberty, 
fraternity,  and  equality.     The  captain  and  his  crew  are 


20 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


very  frii-iKlly.  Tlii-y  bunk  l()j,'other  in  tho  sivnio  ciihin; 
tlicy  witik  loi^a-lliiT  ill  tlio  liiind  lines  or  lon^r  lines;  iintl 
tluiy  nil  hliiiro  in  tlio  profits.  'I'lu!  cil'sv  nccivu  liiilf 
the  priee  of  the  lisli  tliey  catch;  the  (■iii)tain,  a  hirj,'er 
share  than  any  of  Ihi;  erew.  Thus  a  connnon  interiist 
hinds  llieni  t()j,'etlier  and  forces  them  to  maintain  good 
distijiline  on  hoard. 

Next  to  tlie  caittain  or  skipi)^',  the  most  important 
man  is  the  cook,  or  (hxitor,  as  he  is  called,  lie  luw  to 
prepare  the  four  or  live  meals  reiiuired  by  the  men; 
and,  next  to  the  ciiptain,  he  receives  the  largest  share 
of  the  i)rolits.  Oflriitimes  many  relations  will  ship 
together  for  the  IJanks  ;  and,  in  such  circumstances,  if 
the  vessel  is  lost,  great  sorrow  and  suffering  are  brought 
to  the  family,  as  all  the  strong  and  able-bodied  men 
have  been  taken  from  its  suiJport. 

When  a  schooner  reaches  the  IJanks,  the  crew  must 
begin  work  at  once,  if  the  weather  is  at  all  suitable. 
The  reason  for  this  haste  is  that  the  bait  will  keei)  fresh 
for  only  ten  or  twelve  days.  After  that  time  the  lisli 
will  refuse  it.  First  the  anchors  are  thrown  overboard, 
and  then  the  crew  bait  the  hooks  and  play  out  the  hand 
lines.  In  hand  fishing,  each  man  keeps  an  account  of 
the  number  of  (ish  he  catches  by  cutting  out  the  tongues. 
At  the  close  of  the  day  ho  presents  these  tongues  to  the 
skipper,  who  credits  him  with  the  proper  number  of 
fish. 

There  is  a  strong  spirit  of  rivalry  among  the  vessels 
of  the  fishing  fleet.  Each  vessel  tries  to  outdo  the 
others  by  catching  the  greatest  number  of  lish,  and  so 
to  win  for  its  captaiu  the  title  of  "  high-line."     I  think 


---"Mil 


ino  ciiliiii ; 
lines  ;  iiiitl 
ci'ivu  liiilt' 
I,  a  liirj^or 
11  intcruHt 

I  tain  good 

important 
Ilu  luiH  to 

tliu  men ; 
jfost  Hliaro 

will  whip 
istanoes,  if 
10  brought 
dcUl'iI  nion 

crew  must 

II  biiitable. 
kcei)  fresh 
no  the  fish 
overboard, 
it  the  hand 
account  of 
lie  tongues, 
gues  to  the 
number  of 

the  vessels 

outdo  the 

ish,  and  so 

"     I  think 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


21 


many  of  those  rough  men  would  rather  giiiii  that  hon- 
ored title  tliaii  hetiome  govcMiior  general  of  Canada. 
Some  years  ago  the  "high-line"  of  the  hadihick  fleet,  in 
four  months  hiiided  eight  hundred  thousand  lish,  valued 
at  twenty-four  thousand  dollars.  After  all  exiteiises 
had  been  paid,  his  fourteen  l)iave  men,  who  had  dared 
almost  untold  dangers,  received  a  little  over  three  hun- 
dred dollars  apiece. 

Sometimes  many  of  the  fleet  are  able  to  weigh  anchor 
f«)r  home  at  the  same  time.  It  is  a  pretty  sight  to  see  so 
many  vesstds  under  a  fi(!shening  breeze  plmigliing  away 
to  the  northward.  Tin;  Iumi  ts  of  the  men  are  glad,  both 
because  they  have  escaped  the  many  perils  of  the  Hanks, 
and  because  they  have  been  unusually  suecHissful,  as 
their  plentiful  store  of  cod  and  halibut  in  the  well  bears 
testimony. 

Ah  they  enter  the  harbor,  one  of  the  crow  descends 
into  the  well  and  Ijcgins  throwing  the  cod  u[ioii  deck. 
They  are  very  hard  to  (tatcih.  They  seem  to  guess  wliat 
awaits  them  on  deck,  and  struggle,  and  slip,  and  glide 
through  the  man's  clutching  hands.  However,  they 
are  all  in  turn  delivered  to  the  executioner,  who  grasps 
each  cod  back  of  the  head,  and,  by  a  few  well-directed 
blows  witli  a  short  club,  kills  the  fish  at  once. 

They  are  then  packed  and  sent  to  market,  where  they 
bring  a  high  price  as  "live  cod."  They  are  so  called, 
l)ecau8e  they  are  brought  liome  a'uve  ;  and  they  are  much 
fresher  than  the  cod  which  the  lishermen  themselves 
pack  on  ice  out  on  the  Banks. 

If  it  only  were  possible  to  give  you  an  idea  of  the 
perils  of  this  kind  of  life !     The  Hanks  are  the  part  of 


^«fe\  "-^^teini*.t|a 


22 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE, 


I 


!  ' 


the  North  Atlantic  most  dangerous  to  the  great  ocean 
steamers.  How  niuch  more  dangerous  to  the  little  fish- 
ing boat,  and  to  the  frail  dory ! 

The  two  great  ocean  currents,  the  warm  and  the  cold, 
produce  fogs  by  their  meeti.g.  These  fogs  arise  sud- 
denly, sometimes  with  scarcely  a  moment's  warning. 
Then,  for  days  and  weeks,  there  are  violent  gales  of 
wind,  which  cause  the  high  seas  for  which  this  part  of 
the  ocean  is  ecjually  famed  and  dreaded. 

One  of  the  vessels  of  the  fleet  discovers  a  large  shoal 
of  fish.  The  other  boats  anchor  close  by,  although  it 
is  not  safe  for  many  vessels  to  be  near  one  another.  If 
a  sudden  gale  arises,  each  boat  plays  out  more  of  its 
hawser,  hoping,  praying,  that  the  anchor  may  hold.  If 
not,  the  result  is  certain  destruction  to  them,  and  to  the 
vessels  to  leeward;  as  the  wind  would  hurl  the  drifting 
vessel  against  the  others  near  by,  and  all  would  sink 
together. 

Perhaps  the  icy  wind  blows  sever;  "f  the  smacks 
over  on  their  sides,  and  the  men,  clinging  in  the  tattered 
rigging,  ride  out  the  gale.  Each  wave  that  breaks  over 
the  icy  deck  carries  away  a  man.  With  frozen  hands, 
some  of  the  crew  feebly  cling  to  the  ropes;  the  next 
swell  of  the  sea  plunges  them  into  the  depths  of  the 
ocean.  A  brother,  a  father,  or  a  son  drowns  l)efore  the 
faces  of  his  kindred,  separated  from  them  by  only  a  few 
yards.  Hut  alas,  those  yards  are  made  up  of  white, 
mountainous  billows,  and  green,  yawning  gulfs!  And 
there  is  no  hand  to  save. 

One  way  in  which  the  cod  are  taken  is  by  the  long 
line,  or  trawl.     The  trawl  consists  of  a  line  from  six  to 


•  t 


-^M 


great  ocean 
he  little  fish- 

aiul  the  cold, 
gs  arise  suJ- 
it's  warning, 
lent  gales  of 
this  part  of 

a  large  shoal 
,  although  it 
another.  If 
t  more  of  its 
nay  hold.  If 
in,  and  to  the 
1  the  drifting 
1  would  sink 

f  the  smacks 
1  the  tattered 
t  breaks  over 
frozen  hands, 
)es ;  the  next 
iepths  of  the 
ns  l)efore  the 
by  only  a  few 
up  of  white, 
gulfs !     And 

5  by  the  long 
e  from  six  to 


I 


■ 
; 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


23 


twelve  thousand  feet  in  length,  with  lines  hanging  from 
it  from  three  to  six  feet  long  and  three  feet  apart. 
So,  as  each  of  these  short  lines  bears  a  hook,  there  are, 
on  an  average,  three  thousand  hooks  which  must  be 
baited  before  the  trawl  can  be  set  up. 

In  the  cod  fishery,  six  trawls  are  generally  set  at  once 

one  at  the  bow,  one  at  the  stern,  two  on  the  starboard 

or  right  side  of  the  vessel,  and  two  on  her  port  or  left 
side.     The  trawl  is  kept  in  position  by  buoys. 

When  the  trawl  is  to  be  hauled,  or  brought  back  to 
the  vessel,  two  men  are  sent  out  in  a  dory  to  gather  up 
the  line  and  collect  the  fish.  Dories  are  sent  out  in  all 
degrees  of  bad  weather,  and,  owing  to  the  sudden  fogs 
and  storms,  often  are  never  heard  of  again.  Yet  the 
men  who  are  detailed  for  this  dangerous  service,  never 
refuse  nor  complain.  They  realize  that  they  must  take 
their  chances  for  life  or  death  with  the  rest. 

Frequently  two  men  will  be  hauling  in  the  trawl  and 
rejoicing  over  the  quantity  of  cod  taken,  when  suddenly 
the  fog  shuts  down  around  them,  and  the  familiar 
schooner,  their  ocean  home,  is  out  of  sight.  They  do 
not  fear,  for  they  have  a  compass.  They  know  the  ves- 
sel was  east  of  them,  and  so,  with  high  hopes,  they  pull 
hard  to  the  eastward,  each  moment  expecting  to  see  the 
tall  masts  rising  through  the  mist.  But,  poor  men !  the 
harder  they  pull,  the  faster  they  are  going  away  from 
safety  and  from  all  hopes  of  seeing  home  and  children 
again;  for,  unknown  to  them,  the  wind  and  current 
have  changed,  and  instead  of  the  vessel  lying  to  the  east, 
she  is  far  to  the  west,  and  every  stroke  is  taking  them 
farther  away  from  her. 


■'It^-^tSftH,:: 


24 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


If  they  could  only  hear  her  fog  bell !  But  the  cruel 
wind  bears  its  sound  away  from  them.  They  would 
stand  more  chance  of  riding  out  the  gale,  if  they  woiild 
throw  the  lieavy  trawl  aiid  fish  overboard.  But  the  true 
Banker  rarely  does  this. 

And  now  a  heavy  sea  overturns  the  boat;  the  precious 
fish  and  valuable  trawl  are  lost ;  and  the  poor  fishcmen 
can  only  cling  to  the  life  line  on  the  bottom  of  the  float- 
ing dory,  and  wait  for  the  fog  to  lift.  Sometimes  the 
fofifs  last  for  weeks,  and  then  the  condition  of  the  men 
is  hopeless.     Death  is  a  mercy  when  it  comes. 

A  third  danger  to  which  the  fishermen  are  exposed 
is  that  of  Ixjing  run  down  by  ocean  ships  and  stenmers. 
The  Banks  lie  directly  in  their  path,  and,  althougu  the 
schooner  may  have  her  red  port  light  and  her  green 
starboard  light  trimmed  and  burning  brightly,  and  may 
have  her  mournful  fog  horn  sounding  steadily,  yet,  so 
dense  are  the  fogs,  and  so  shrill  is  the  whistle  of  the 
wind  on  these  terrible  Banks,  that  the  little  craft  may 
be  cut  through  by  the  steel  prows  of  a  steamer,  while 
those  on  board  the  larger  vessel  are  all  unconscious  of 
the  disaster.  Passengers  in  the  steamer  sleep  quietly, 
while  the  crew  of  the  fishing  smack  are  battling  witli 
and  sinking  in  the  great  Avaves,  which  only  rock  the 
passengers  themselves  into  deeper  slumber. 

The  ocean  steamers  are  required  by  law  to  run  at  half 
speed  during  foggy  weather;  but,  owing  to  the  ambi- 
tion of  the  captains  to  cross  the  Atlantic  in  the  fewest 
number  of  days  possible,  this  law  is  not  always  oljcyed. 
Often  the  ship  pauses  in  her  course  and  sends  out  a 
boat  to  pick  up  the  struggling  men ;  but  sometimes  she 
speeds  away,  leaving  them  to  their  fate. 


HRaHH 


A 


tlie  cruel 
!y  would 
By  would 
.  the  true 

precious 
ishcmen 
the  float- 
iines  the 
the  men 

exposed 
stenmers. 
ougii  the 
icr  green 
and  may 
7,  yet,  so 
ie  of  the 
n-aft  may 
ler,  while 
iscious  of 
)  quietly, 
ling  with 
rock  the 

in  at  half 
the  ambi- 
lie  fewest 
s  obeyed, 
ids  out  a 
times  she 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


25 


These  dangtn-s  have  made  the  Rankers  what  they  are 
—  brave,  hardy,  and  daring.  And  yet  the  spirit  of  the 
men  is  wonderfully  cheerful  and  i)atient.  They  do  not 
regard  the  sea  as  a  dreadful  foe;  she  is,  in  their  minds, 
a  friend,  who  furiiislies  them  with  a  sourro  of  liveliliood, 
and  who,  in  all  her  as[)ects,  is  marvellously  fascinating 
and  l)ea»itiful.  They  love  their  hard  life  and  would  not 
exchange  it  for  an  "easy  berth  ashore."  Thousands  of 
them  are  lost  every  year.  An  aged  fislierman  is  a  rare 
sight;  tlie  majority  die  btifore  reaching  miihlle  age;  Imt 
still,  so  attractive  is  tlie  sea,  that  the  ranks  of  the  lisher- 
man  never  lack  recruits. 


CHAPTER  III. 
PICTURES  OF   NEW    BRUNSWICK   AND  NOVA  SCOTIA. 

New  BrunsAvick,  one  of  the  provinces  of  the  Domin- 
ion of  Canada,  is  sniaUer  than  eitlier  Quebec  or  Ontario, 
and  larger  than  eitlier  Nova  Scotia  or  tlie  little  prov- 
ince of  Pr'nce  Edward  Island.  It  is  shai)cd  like  the 
state  of  Maine,  and  has  the  same  rocky,  indented  coast. 
The  northern  and  northwestern  part  of  New  lirunswick 
is  quite  mountainous,  and  many  rivers,  taking  their 
start  amongst  these  mountains,  flow  in  a  southerly  or 
southeasterly  directiori. 

The  largest  river  is  the  St.  John,  which  empties  into 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.  At  its  mouth  is  the  city  of  St. 
John,  which  is  five  times  as  large  as  any  other  city  in 
the  province.  Just  at  this  point  our  series  of  pictures 
begins. 


26 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


I  want  fu-st  to  show  you  St.  John  Harbor.  On  uur 
right  hand,  as  we  sail  slowly  up  the  river  St.  John,  we 
see  low,  steep  hills.  On  these  hills  is  built  the  city  of 
St.  John.  The  houses  are  of  gray  stone,  red  brick,  or 
wood  painted  a  dark  brown.  Often  a  thick,  gray  mist 
hangs  over  the  town,  blotting  houses  and  streets  from 
sight ;  but  to-tlay  the  sunshine  has  burned  away  the  mist, 
and  you  can  plainly  see  the  colors  of  the  houses,  the 
straight  streets  running  up  and  down  the  hills,  the 
jingling  street  cars,  and  the  busy  people. 

Down  by  the  wb.arves  the  city  is  busiest.  Great 
steamers  from  all  parts  of  the  world  lie  near  the 
wharves  to  take  in  their  cargoes  of  lumber.  The  oppo- 
site bank  of  the  river  is  bordered  with  sawmills,  whose 
shrill  sound  can  be  plainly  heard. 

The  harbor  is  filled  with  craft  of  every  description. 
Sailing  vessels  are  on  all  sides  of  us;   some  moored, 
with  their  masts  rising  naked  and  We ;  othere,  under 
clouds  of  white  or  yellow  canvas,  scudding  hither  and 
thither.      Here  is  a  graceful  yacht  racing  before  the 
breeze,  there  a  clumsy  wood  boat  pushing  obstinately  on 
its  way.     Noisy  red  and  white  tugs  rush  madly  about, 
pulling  great  steamera  or  heavy  black  scows  after  them. 
Drawing  nearer  to  the  wharves,  we  see  that  they  are 
covered  with   open  cars   laden  with  fragrant  planks. 
Bundles   of  these  are  raised  on  derricks,  and  swung 
down  into  the  hold  of  a  great  red  steamer  lying  close  at 
hand.    You  look  at  the  name  of  the  vessel :  "  The  Cadiz." 
Black-haired,  swarthy  men  are  busy  on  her  deck.     She 
has  come  all  the  way  from  distant  Spain,  where  the 
woods  have  been  ruthlessly  destroyed,  to  the  rich  forest 


On  uur 
folin,  we 
B  city  of 
brick,  or 
;ray  mist 
lets  from 
the  mist, 
uses,  the 
iills,  the 

;.  Great 
near  the 
?he  oppo- 
Is,  whose 

scription. 
I  moored, 
51-s,  under 
lither  and 
efore  the 
nately  on 
lly  about, 
Eter  them, 
t  they  are 
,t  pLanks. 
id  swung 
ig  close  at 
lie  Cadiz." 
eck.  She 
where  the 
rich  forest 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


27 


lamls  of  New  Brunswick.  Two  scows,  clinging  to  the 
side  of  a  neighboring  steamer,  are  shooting  the  lumber 
in  with  great  rapidity. 

With  this  scene  before  you,  and  with  a  remembrance 
of  the  line  of  sawmills  on  the  north  shore  of  the  harbor, 
you  can  readily  tell  wliat  tv/o  of  the  chief  industries  of 
St.  Jolui  are.  They  are  the  sawing  and  the  shipping  of 
lumber.  The  lumber  comes  by  river  from  the  forests 
of  the  upper  St.  John. 

When  the  tide  goes  out,  the  vessels  in  the  slip,  as 
the  space  between  the  wharves  is  called,  are  aground  on 
thick,  black  mud.  They  appear  very  dejected  as  they 
lean  far  to  one  side,  their  ropes  hanging  dark  and  wet, 
and  their  canvas  drooping  in  a  melancholy  way.  Under 
any  circumstances,  the  slip  is  a  very  picturesque  place 
at  low  tide ;  but  if  a  mist  has  arisen,  the  scene  is  even 
ghostly.  The  black  hulks  of  the  vessels  rise  dimly 
through  the  cloud,  and  the  rigging  is  very  indistinct 
and  shadowy.  The  noisy  streets  above  are  hidden  in 
fog,  and  a  deep  silence  rests  upon  the  slip. 

Much  time  in  St.  John  is  passed  in  going  up  and 
down  hill.  There  are  two  or  three  streets  that  may  be 
called  level,  but  most  of  them  rise  at  quite  an  angle 
from  the  water's  edge.  The  horse  cars  toil  peisever- 
ingly  up  these  streets,  and  the  citizens  patiently  submit 
to  their  daily  joltings.  It  is  said  that  one  sure  mark  of 
the  citizen  of  St.  John  is  his  excellent  digestion.  For 
this,  people  say,  he  has  to  thank  the  horse  cara. 

The  sail  up  the  St.  John  River  will  take  us  through 
the  centre  of  the  province,  and  show  us  something  of 
the  farms  of  New  Brunswick. 


28 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  stoamcr  loaves  St.  .lolin  in  the  early  dawn,  in 
order  to  pass  tlie  falls  above  the  city  at  a  certain  point 
in  the  tide.  These  falls  are  remarkable  for  being  re- 
versible ;  that  is,  the  water  Hows  in  one  direction  one- 
half  the  day,  and  in  the  opposite  direction  during  the 
remainder  of  the  day.  AVhen  the  tide  ebbs,  the  river 
conies  over  the  falls.  When  tlood  tide  conies,  the  ocean 
rises,  covei-s  the  falls,  and  flows  up  stream.  Just  l)c- 
tween  the  two  tides  is  the  time  that  vessels  seize  to  go 
up  and  down  the  river. 

The  falls  safely  passed,  we  enter  that  part  of  St.  John 
Uiver  called  the  Narrows^  because,  as  you  might  suppose 
from  the  name,  the  precipitous  banks  draAv  close  to  each 
other,  making  the  stream  very  narrow.  Far  up  on  both 
sides  of  the  cliffs  miners  are  at  work.  A  sudden  puff 
of  smoke  is  seen,  a  dull  boom  is  heard,  and  then  frag- 
ments of  rook  begin  to  rattle  down  into  the  river.  "The 
men  are  blasting. 

Presently  the  hills  retreat,  and  the  river  valley  broad- 
ens during  the  rest  of  the  way  to  Fredericton.  The 
land  is  very  fertile,  because  the  river  floods  all  the  low 
lands  in  the  spring.  The  farmer  sets  his  nets  in  the 
meadows;  and  when  the  river  returns  to  its  bed,  it 
leaves  liehind  large  quantities  of  silvery  fish,  which  fill 
the  nets  to  bursting. 

A  few  weeks  later,  the  fields,  over  which  but  recently 
the  waters  rolled,  are  being  ploughed  and  planted. 

So  the  farmer's  field  on  the  St.  John  yields  two  crops 
—  one  crop  of  fish,  the  other  crop  of  grain  and  vege- 
tables. When  such  are  the  advantages  of  farm  life  on 
the  river,  it  is  no  wonder  that  every  hillock  is  crowned 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


29 


iwn,  m 
II  point 
•iiig  re- 
on  ono- 
iiig  the 
le  river 
e  ocean 
Fust  bc- 
50  to  go 

It.  John 
suppose 
to  each 
on  both 
ien  puff 
nn  frag- 
r.    -The 

y  broad- 
II.  The 
the  low 
3  in  the 
bed,  it 
'hich  till 

recently 

ed. 

1^0  crops 

id  vege- 

n  life  on 

crowned 


with  a  white  fann-lmuse,  nestled  amid  gnarled  old  apple- 
trees,  with  the  sweeping  boughs  of  an  elm  shading  the 
roof. 

Further  iip  the  river,  wo  notice  that  the  shores  arc 
edged  with  willov/s.  Their  roots  protect  the  soft  banks 
of  the  river,  and  prevent  the  current  fronr  washing  them 
away. 

Here  the  spring  freshets  are  so  strong  that  the  region 
is  flooded.  It  becomes  a  Canadian  Venice.  Fannei-s  go 
from  th(!ir  houses  to  their  bai'iis  in  rowboats.  Teachers 
and  children  row  to  school  across  the  meadows.  It  is 
gay  times  then  for  the  little  folks,  as  they  float  about 
over  the  water.  S;uidays,  idso,  are  enlivened  by  a 
watery  pilgrimage  to  church. 

And  now,  gazing  across  the  breezy  waters,  we  catch 
sight  of  a  few  church-spires  rising  tall  above  the  many 
elms  surrounding  them.  Fredericton,  the  capital  of  the 
province,  is  at  hand.  The  water-front  is  lined  with 
beautiful  elms.  Most  of  the  principal  buildings  of  the 
city  do  not  face  the  river,  but  we  can,  from  our  boat, 
form  a  general  idea  of  their  appearance  and  surround- 
ings. Tlie  Normal  School  building  is  very  line ;  and  so 
is  the  new  Parliament  House,  of  freestone  and  gray 
granite. 

Fredericton  is  a  very  ambitious  city.  Although  one- 
fifth  as  large  as  St.  John,  she  longs  to  rival  her  big 
neighbor  in  commercial  importance.  She  is  the  centre 
of  the  lumbering  district,  and  is  anxious  to  be  the  centre 
of  the  agricultural,  fishing,  and  mining  regions  on  the 
north  shore.  But  as  yet  her  latest  ambitions  have  not 
been  accomplished. 


30 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


About  ono  hundred  and  forty  miles  above  Fredericton 
are  the  Grand  Falls.  Although  only  half  as  liigh  as 
Niagara,  they  are  quite  as  overwhelming.  This  is  be- 
cause their  surroundings  are  so  dark  and  gloomy  that 
Niagara,  by  contrast,  appeare  bright  and  joyous.  The 
St.  John  Kiver  narrows  at  this  point  from  one  quarter  of 
a  mile  to  three  hundred  feet,  and  then  plunges  eighty 
feet  into  a  dark  gorge.  A  suspension  bridge  hangs 
above  the  river  a  few  feet  below  the  cataract,  and  there 
on  moonlight  nights  the  view  is  beautiful. 

Many  legends  cluster  round  the  Grand  Falls ;  but  the 
most  interesting  story  of  all  has  an  Indian  girl  for  the 
heroine.  She  was  of  the  tribe  of  the  Melicites,  who 
lived  in  the  region  of  the  upper  St.  John.  From  a  child 
she  had  known  all  the  windings  of  the  river,  and  its 
falls  and  cataracts,  as  well  as  you  know  your  way  home 
from  school.  She  could  steer  and  paddle  a  canoe  almost 
as  well  as  a  young  Indian  brave. 

The  Mohawks  were  the  deadly  enemies  of  the  Meli- 
cites. The  two  tribes  hated  each  other  with  strong, 
undying,  Indian  hatred.  Once  our  Indian  girl  was  with 
a  small  party  on  the  upper  St.  John.  They  had  left  her 
home,  the  chief  village  of  the  Melicites,  had  carried 
their  canoes  around  the  Grand  Falls,  and  were  well  on 
their  way  up  the  river,  when  they  were  captured  by  a 
party  of  fierce  Mohawks. 

All  the  Melicites  were  put  to  death  except  our  hero- 
ine. She  was  placed  in  the  first  canoe  and  ordered  to 
conduct  the  captors  to  a  safe  landing-place  above  Grnnd 
Falls.  In  the  morning  they  would  carry  tb'  .  es 
round  the  falls  and  continue  their  journey. 


«r 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


81 


lericton 
liigh  as 
8  is  be- 
tny  that 
8.  The 
larter  of 
1  eighty 
3  hangs 
id  there 

but  the 
I  for  the 
:es,  who 
I  a  child 
and  its 
[vy  home 
e  almost 

he  Meli- 
strong, 
ivas  with 
left  her 
.  carried 
I  well  on 
red  by  a 

3ur  hero- 
dered  to 
re  Grnnd 


That  was  all  they  told  htr,  but  she  could  guess  the 
rest.  They  were  dressed  as  warrioi's  on  the  wari)ath, 
and  their  destination  was  her  native  village.  There 
they  would  give  no  quarter.  Her  nearest  kin  would  bo 
surprised  and  butchered  by  the  wily  enemies  of  their 

tribe. 

What  sad  thoughts  passed  through  her  mind,  as  she 
bent  to  her  work !  How  fast  the  river  banks  flew  by ! 
Soon  they  would  be  at  the  falls  !  The  falls !  Ah !  there 
lay  the  way  by  vvhicli  she  could  save  her  tribe  from  mas- 
sacre. But  herself?  She  would  be  lost  too.  Well, 
what  mattered  it,  if  the  others  were  saved.  And  so  the 
dauntless  girl  steered  straight  for  the  Grand  Falls. 

The  Mohawks  were  half  asleep,  trusting  implicitly  in 
the  girl  whose  life  was  in  their  power.  They  were 
awakened  by  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  just  too  late  to 
save  themselves.  The  paddles  were  seized  and  plied 
desperately  for  a  moment,  and  then  they  gave  them- 
selves ui)  to  their  dreadful  fate  with  the  grim  silence  of 
the  Indian  brave.  Mohawks,  canoes,  and  Melicite  girl, 
all  were  dashed  to  pieces  over  the  falls ;  but  never  again 
was  there  a  Mohawk  invasion  into  Melicite  territory. 

By  means  of  tributaries  we  can  pass  from  the  head- 
waters of  the  St.  John  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Resti- 
gouche,  a  river  which  forms  pari,  of  the  northern  bound- 
ary of  New  Brunswick.  The  natural  charm  of  the  river 
is  great,  but  to  a  fisherman  the  Restigouche  is  most 
dear,  because  of  the  large  salmon  that  throng  its  waters. 
Spearing  salmon  by  torchlight  is  a  very  exciting  night's 
fishing. 

A  windless  night  is  best  for  this  sport,  as  then  the 


82 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


1 


water  \h  unnillli)tl  aiul  cloivr.  TIio  (Islit'inuin  stands  in 
the  bow  of  till!  bout  K'i'''"K'  »-'arni'stly  down  ujion  tlie 
rivt'i-bed.  If  lie  scch  a  li.' '  ,  be  tbiiist.s  liis  forked  spear 
into  it,  and  binds  it  in  tbu  l)oat.  Tlio  work  is  siU'iit  but 
intensely  exuitinjj.  Every  objeet  on  tbu  sboro  is  illu- 
minated by  tbe  toreb ;  tbat  nigbt  bird,  tbe  owl,  boots 
dismally  overboad;  tbe  paddle  dii)S  silently  into  tbo 
water;  and  tbe  lisberman,  bis  si)ear  poised  earefully, 
keenly  watebes  tbe  j,deaming  river  bed. 

Suddenly  tbere  is  a  dart,  and  a  glittering  salmon  is 
tixed  and  beld  tigbtly  by  tbe  inuel  jaws  of  tbe  spear. 
He  weigbs  at  least  eigbt  pounds,  and  wben  cooked  will 
make  a  delicious  meal. 

Half  an  hour's  inaction  on  tbe  part  of  tbe  fisberman 
follows ;  tben  comes  a  quick  dart,  succeeded  by  an  im- 
patient exclamation.  Tbe  fish  bas  taken  alarm.  A  few 
imic  moments  of  silence,  and  tben  a  line  wbitefisb  is 
brougbt  up.  So  tbe  spoit  goes  on,  and,  after  tbo  return 
to  tbe  camp,  tbe  fisberman  iinds  it  almost  imi)0S8ible  to 
sleep,  tbe  still  excitement  of  tbe  fisbing  was  so  great. 

Perhaps,  far  away  in  tbe  forests,  is  heard  a  low,  melan- 
choly cry,  repeated  again  and  again.  No  one  knows 
what  it  "is ;  but  the  Indians  say  that  the  hunting  dogs 
of  their  beloved  hero.  Cote  Scaurp,  are  wandering  round 
the  world  hunting  for  their  master.  He  was  once  ruler 
over  men  and  beasts  in  the  happy  past.  But  they 
began  to  grow  quarrelsome,  and  at  last  Cote  Scaurp 
could  bear  it  no  longer.  He  sailed  away  over  the  great 
lake  toward  the  setting  sun.  And  then,  as  the  Indians 
say,  "  a  very  strange  thing  came  to  pass.  The  beasts, 
which  until  now  had  spoken  one  tongue,  were  no  more 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


88 


Htanda  in 
upon  the 
kud  siK'iir 
sili'nt  but 
I'o  is  illn- 
\vl,  lionts 
into  tliu 
ciuofully, 

salmon  is 
tho  Hpeiir. 
)oked  will 

fishennan 
by  an  ini- 
n.     A  few 
liitefisli  is 
the  return 
l)0S8ible  to 
o  great, 
ow,  nielan- 
•ne  knows 
nting  dogs 
ring  round 
once  ruler 
But  they 
)te  Scaurp 
r  the  great 
the  Indians 
rhe  beasts, 
re  no  more 


able  to  understand  one  another.  And  they  tied  apart, 
each  his  own  way,  and  never  again  have  they  met  to- 
gether in  council." 

Having  returned  to  St.  John,  let  us,  in  imagination, 
cross  the  bay  to  the  opposite  blue  line  which  marks  the 
Nova  Scotia  coiist. 

Tiie  Hay  of  Kundy  stretches  two  great  arms  into 
Nova  Scotia.  One  is  Annajiolis  Hasin,  and  the  other  is 
Minas  Hasin.  Annapolis  Hasin  is  a  wonderfully  sunny, 
cheerful  si>ot. 

Here  is  the  paradise  of  cherries.  l*eoj)le  come  from 
far  and  near,  from  St.  John,  from  I'ortland,  and  even 
fnmi  Boston,  to  gather  and  enjoy  the  bhujkhearts  and 
the  whitehearts.  Hotii  the  cherry  and  the  apple  or- 
chards are  beautiful  in  spring;  and  the  cottages,  em- 
bowered in  the  orchards,  must  be  lovely  homes  in  June, 
when  the  delicately  tinted,  sweet  blossoms  are  nodding 
at  the  eaves  and  peeping  in  at  the  windows.  There  is 
a  growing  trade  in  apples.  Nova  Scotia  apples  are  in 
great  demand  in  England ;  and  red,  green,  and  golden 
fruit  are  exported  from  here  in  English  ships. 

Minas  Bivsin  is  remarkable  for  its  high  tides.  It  is 
one  of  the  forks  or  throats  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  into  which  is  driven  all  the  water  that  enters 
at  the  wide  mouth  of  the  bay.  The  waters  pile  up  tis 
the  tide  rushes  in,  and  here  in  Minas  liasin  the  tide 
often  rises  to  the  height  of  sixty  feet.  At  Halifax,  on 
the  oppos'te  coivst  of  Nova  Scotia,  the  tide  rises  only 
seven  or  eight  feet. 

It  is  a  curious  and  interesting  sight  to  watch  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tides.    At  ebb  tide  the  great  ships  lie 


84 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


Iii^li  luul  dry  at  Oio  whiirvcH  iioiir  thu  mouth  nf  Honio 
river.  Tho  rivur  itsell'  is  ii  luure  trickliiijj  Htruiviii. 
Suddenly  it  roaring  hoihkI  is  iu-ard ;  thu  tidu  tuniH  and 
rushes  with  niij,'hty  iuipulso  towards  tho  shoro.  'I'im 
foaniiiig  water  hurrieH  around  a  l)end  and  enters  thu 
harbor.  Soon  the  great  ships  l)egiii  to  rise,  and  pres- 
ently they  are  afhiat ;  while  thu  stronjj  sea  breeze  rocks 
theni  to  and  fro,  and  wiiistles  tlnoujfh  their  rij,'j,Miig. 

Tlio  ebb  of  the  tide  is  just  as  sudden.  In  a  few  mo- 
ments after  thu  turn  takes  place,  a  great  bare  spot  of 
sand  appears  in  thu  harbor,  which  constantly  grows 
larger.  Many  cattle  have  been  drowned  in  this  region, 
and  lK)ys  who  were  guarding  them  have  been  swept 
away  by  the  relentless  sea. 

Fifty  miles  south  of  Minas  Basin,  on  tho  Atlantic 
coast,  is  Halifax,  the  capital  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  har- 
bor can  shelter  a  thousand  sliips,  and  is  well  defended 
by  forts.  They  frown  down  from  the  heights  on  the 
shores  of  the  harbor,  and  from  many  of  the  islands.  If 
a  war-ship  could,  by  hof)k  or  by  crook,  slip  ])ast  the  forts 
up  to  the  city,  she  could  be  instantly  blov  i  to  pieces  by 
cannon  from  Fort  St.  George  on  Citadel  hill. 

Tho  hill,  a  low  one,  only  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  height,  rises  back  of  the  city.  It  is  crowned  by 
a  high,  rectangular,  grassy  mound  on  whose  summit 
floats  the  red  and  blue  flag  of  England,  with  tho 
Union  Jack.  It  is  after  you  have  entered  the  fort  that 
its  true  strength  becomes  known  to  you.  Beneath  the 
grass  work  are  the  real  walls  of  the  fort,  built  of  stone 
and  masonry,  and  exceedingly  thick.  Tho  fort  contains 
many  lofty,  echoing  passages  and  spacious  chambers. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


85 


of  Honio 
r  struiim. 
tuniH  1111(1 
jro.     The 

llU'lS     till! 
lllld    plH'S- 

iii/M  rocks 

a  few  mo- 
re s[i"t  of 
tly  j^rows 
lis  rofjion, 
ecu  swept 

e  Atlantic 
The  har- 
1  defended 
hts  on  the 
slands.  If 
it  the  forts 
o  pieces  by 

hI  and  fifty 
jrovvned  by 
)8e  summit 
,  with  the 
he  fort  that 
ieneath  the 
ilt  of  stone 
ort  contains 
larabers. 


Have  yoti  ever  seen  an  ant's  nest  in  the  pasture?  Ft 
is  a  fjreat,  f^rassy  inoiind,  on  tiie  siirfafc;,  i)iil  within,  if 
you  should  open  it  l)y  nuums  of  a  walkiiij,'  stick,  you 
would  liiid  inniiinoral)K',  f^allcried  chambers,  the  scene 
of  much  i)nsy  life.  It  is  just  so  with  tlicsi!  forts.  Tiiey 
arc  f,'rcat,  silent  mounds;  but  witliin  arc!  many  chainhcrs, 
tlirou},di  which  echo  and  re-echo  the  busy  steps  and 
voices  of  active  soldiers. 

Halifax  is  the  chief  English  naval  station  on  tlie 
Atlantic!  seacoast  of  North  Ain(!rica.  As  we  have  seen, 
it  is  well  defended  by  forts,  and  men-of-war  are  continu- 
ally hovering  about  the  harbor.  It  is  to  Halifax  that 
vessels  turn  if  any  accident  Ixjfalls  them  on  the  i)asHago 
between  the  New  and  the  Old  World. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THK  ISLAND  CITY  OF  CANADA. 

Montreal,  the  largest  city  of  the  province  of  Quel)ec, 
is  finely  situated.  It  is  built  on  an  Island  in  the  St. 
Lawrence,  thirty  miles  long  by  seven  miles  wide ;  and 
is  the  point  at  which  ocean  navigation  ceases,  and  river 
and  lake  navigation  begins.  The  large  ocean  steamers 
puff  their  way  up  the  St.  Lawrence  River  a  thousand 
miles  to  unload  their  goods  at  Montreal ;  while  numer- 
ous small  sailing  vessels  and  steamers,  on  their  way 
down  the  great  river,  stoi)  at  Montreal.  It  is  not  sur- 
prising then  that  Montreal,  owing  to  its  fine  natural 


OMk 


36 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


i : 


position,  sliould  have   become  tlie   largest  city  of  all 
British  America. 

A  Ixiautiful  view  of  Montreal  is  obtained  by  descend- 
ing the  St.  Lawrence  in  a  steamboat.  There  are  numer- 
ous rapids  above  the  city  which  steamboats  are  obliged 
to  "  shoot."  Tliis  is  dangerous  work.  Wliite,  foaming 
waves  strike  the  bows,  and  whirl  away  to  the  stern. 
The  vessel  swerves  shar^ily  from  the  dangerous  rocks. 
The  thunder  of  the  rapids  mingles  with  the  laughter 
and  glee  of  the  passengers.  They  know  no  danger ;  but 
the  captain  looks  sober  and  anxious. 

The  Lachine  Rapids  are  the  most  perilous  to  pass. 
As  the  boat  approaches  them,  an  Indian  pilot,  from  the 
village  on  shore,  is  taken  on  board.  The  captixin  ordei-s 
every  one  to  remain  in  his  place,  in  order  that  the  l)oat  may 
be  perfectly  balanced  while  running  this  last  and  most 
Uirrible  gauntlet.  The  pilot  grasps  the  wheel  strongly ; 
and  down  the  narrow,  shallow  cliannel  she  tlies,  sharply 
turning  from  the  dark,  jagged  rocks.  Tlie  lips  and 
cheeks  of  many  a  stalwart  passenger  are  Avhite,  but  the 
pilot,  in  whose  hands  are  so  many  lives,  stands  unmoved, 
with  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  curves  ol  the  shore.  If  he 
should  once  turn  his  eyes  away,  and  look  at  the  rapids 
themselves,  he  would  lose  his  bearings,  and  the  steamer 
would  be  destroyed.  In  a  few  moments  the  rapids  are 
passed.  There  is  now  nothing  to  disturb  one's  enjoy- 
ment of  the  beautiful  approach  to  Montreal. 

Far  away  from  our  entrance  to  the  bay,  is  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  which  linked  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to- 
gether thirty  years  ago.  The  river  L  a  mile  and  three- 
quarters  wide  where  it  is  spanned  by  this  bridge.     On 


f^^?i-c  ■rt*Brf^A^*^-.1"' 


p■-^iW¥l!9.i»«es*«&a:^I«3»**■"a:^5i- 


*W 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


37 


city  of  all 

jy  descend- 
aie  11  lime  r- 
iie  obliged 
te,  foaming 
the  stern, 
rolls  rocks, 
le  laughter 
langer ;  but 

us  to  pass. 
it,  from  the 
itiiin  ordei-s 
he  boat  may 
;t  and  most 
A  strongly; 
lies,  sharply 
le  lips  and 
lite,  but  the 
Is  unmoved, 
lore.  If  he 
t  the  rapids 
the  steamer 
B  rapids  are 
one's  enjoy- 

the  Victoria 
..awrence  to- 
e  and  three- 
bridge.     On 


3 
O 
z 
H 
3 

m 


»*i»iPKI*JKlSt«&aS««fc*J*a^i."^  '^JtM^^^ 


38 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


account  of  its  great  length  the  bridge  appears  so  low, 
that  traveler  often  ask  if  the  funnel  of  the  steamboat 
is  not  to  be  lowered  on  passing  under.  Drawing  nearer, 
and  seeing  the  great  height  of  the  structure,  they  smile 
at  their  error  in  judgment. 

Entering  the  harbor,  the  city  lies  spread  out  before 
us,  with  its  fine  docks  and  warehouses,  and  the  spires  of 
its  many  churches ;  and,  in  the  background,  is  pine-clad 
Mount  Royal,  the  stately  mountain  that  gives  its  name 
to  the  noble  city  at  its  feet.  Tlie  twin  towera  of  Notre 
Dame  Cathedral  rise  conspicuous  above  the  lesser  land- 
marks. 

Other  beautiful  views  of  the  city  can  be  obtained  from 
the  towers  of  Notre  Dame,  and  from  the  summit  of 
Mount  Royal. 

This  mountain,  which  forms  the  western  boundary  of 
the  town,  is  seven  hundred  feet  high.  There  are  two 
ways  of  ascent.  One  is  the  road  which  starts  at  the 
southeastern  side,  and  winds  upward  in  a  corkscrew 
fashion  to  the  summit.  The  other  way  is  by  means  of 
numerous  flights  of  very  steep,  wooden  steps.  Those 
who  take  this  climb  arrive  at  the  top  with  panting  breath 
and  shaking  knees.     But  the  view  fully  repays  them. 

On  all  sides  stretches  an  immense  plain,  through 
which  the  majestic  St.  Lawrence  rolls  its  blue  flood. 
Many  green  islands  lie,  like  fallen  leaves,  upon  its 
watery  surface.  To  the  southwest  is  the  valley  of  the 
Ottawa,  whose  yellow,  turbid  stream  joins  the  St.  Law- 
rence several  miles  above  Montreal. 

Far  away  are  blue  ranges  of  mountains.  The  Lau- 
rentian  Mountains  skirt  the  northern  horizon  ;  the  (ireen 


;;■  frF«^»Ea''**ft^J'^^«W«J-^*W"W^**' 


!%K^CW*l^ill4.-.3-  . 


^sfifip 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


89 


i  so  low, 
teamboat 
g  nearer, 
ley  smile 

it  before 
spires  of 
pine-clad 
its  name 
of  Notre 
iser  land- 

ned  from 
immit  of 

mdary  of 
are  two 
ts  at  the 
orkscrew 
iieans  of 
.  Those 
ig  breath 
them, 
through 
ue  flood, 
upon  its 
sy  of  the 
St.  Law- 

rhe  Lau- 
lie  Green 


Mountains,  shadowy  and  cloudlike,  lie  to  the  south. 
Lake  Champlain  is  visible  in  the  distance.  Fleecy 
clouds  float  in  the  sky  ;  the  fresh  wind  fans  your  cheek  ; 
and,  looking  downward,  you  see  the  city  at  your  foet, 
lying  between  the  mountain  and  the  river.  It  extends 
five  miles  along  the  shore,  and  two  miles  inland  to  the 
foot  of  Mount  Royal,  and  occupies  a  space  of  about  eight 
square  miles.  It  is  built  upon  terraces,  which  mark  the 
former  channels  of  the  river. 

The  northern  rnd  southern  ends  of  the  city  are  the 
poorer  quarters.  Here  are  factories,  mills,  workshops, 
and  the  houses  of  the  working  men,  mostly  built  of 
wood  or  brick.  In  the  centre,  near  the  river,  stand  the 
stately  blocks  of  w.arehouses,  business  houses,  and  public 
buildings.  The  homes  of  the  wealthy  men  are  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city,  on  the  lower  spurs  of  Mount 
Royal. 

The  top  of  the  mountain  is  laid  out  in  a  fine  park, 
which  cost  the  city  three  millions  of  dollars.  Moun- 
tain Park,  as  it  is  called,  .abounds  in  beautiful  trees  and 
shady  drives,  which  are  a  favorite  afternoon  resort. 
T)ie  park  is  still  incomplete.  It  is  intended  to  lay  out 
some  of  the  grounds  as  gardens,  and  leave  the  rest  in 
its  natural  wild  state.  There  are  to  l)e  preserves  for 
game  and  wild  animals. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  mountain  are  quarries  of 
limestone,  the  building  stone  of  the  city.  Public  build- 
ings, warehouses,  and  private  residences,  all  are  built  of 
this  beautiful  gray  stone,  which  resists  the  attacks  of 
the  weather  wonderfully. 

About  one-third  of  the  way  up  the  mountain,  on  the 


«tb> 


40 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


eastern  side,  is  the  reservoir.  Water  is  brought  in  an 
open  canal  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  five  miles  above  the 
city,  to  this  great  artificial  pond,  which  has  been  cut 
from  the  solid  rock  at  considerable  pains  and  cost. 

The  Catholic  and  Protestant  cemeteries  occupy  the 
western  slopes  of  Mount  Royal.  The  Catholic  ceme- 
tery is  a  very  interesting  place  to  visit.  Here  and 
there,  throughout  the  grounds  of  the  cemetery,  are 
small  chapels  or  little  grottos,  that,  followed  in  a  defi- 
nite order,  lead  to  a  small  hill  on  which  are  placed  three 
crosses.  Hence  they  form  what  is  known  as  the  Way 
of  the  Crosses. 

On  certain  fefist  days  the  chapels  are  open,  and  the 
black-robed  priest  leads  the  people  from  one  to  another. 
On  the  inner  wall  of  each  chapel  is  a  raised  carving, 
which  is  brightly  colored,  and  which  represents  some 
scene  from  the  Bible.  The  priest  explains  each  picture 
to  the  listening  throng,  and  at  last  leads  them  to  the 
little  hill  of  the  three  crosses,  before  which  they  pros- 
trate themselves. 

The  grfives  of  the  dead  are  tenderly  cared  for.  Here 
and  there  may  be  seen,  on  a  green,  turfy  mound,  a  plas- 
ter cast  of  a  saint,  a  photograph  of  the  dead  friend,  or 
an  altar  with  tiny  candles  under  a  glass  shade. 

Have  you  a  clear  picture  of  Mount  Royal  in  your 
mind  ?  Think  once  more  of  the  green  hill,  with  the 
shady  park  on  its  summit ;  the  limestone  quarry  on  its 
northern  slope ;  the  graveyards  on  its  western  slope  ; 
the  reservoir  of  clear,  pure  watrr  on  its  eastern  slope ; 
the  city  at  its  feet.  If  it  is  all  plain  before  you,  we  will 
next  seek  the  shore  of  the  river. 


flit  in  an 
bove  the 
been  cut 

)8t. 

3upy  the 
ic  ceme- 
[ere  and 
:ery,  are 
in  a  defi- 
)ed  three 
the  Way 

and  the 
another, 
carving, 
its  some 
1  picture 
a  to  the 
ley  pros- 

•.  Here 
1,  a  plas- 
riend,  or 

in  your 
vith  the 
•y  on  its 
1  slope  ; 
n  slope; 
I  we  will 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


41 


Generally  that  is  the  most  disagreeable  part  of  a  city. 
Narrow,  filthy  streets  lead  between  dilapidated  ware- 
houses to  the  decaying  wooden  piers  of  the  harbor,  and 
these  regions  are  frequented  by  the  roughest  class  of 
people.  But  it  is  not  so  in  Montreal.  She  stands,  as 
one  writer  has  said,  "clean  to  her  very  feet."  Her 
wharves,  extending  three  miles  along  the  river,  are  next 
to  the  wharves  of  Liverpool  in  size.  They  are  built  of 
limestone,  and  in  their  general  plan  and  solidity  they 
resemble  the  beautiful  quays  of  Paris. 

A  truck  railroad  runs  filong  the  edge  of  the  wharves, 
and  Montreal  is  able  to  load  and  luiload  a  vessel  in  less 
time  than  any  other  city  in  the  country.  The  street 
bordering  the  river  is  separated  from  the  wharves  by  a 
stone  wall,  which  protects  it  during  the  spring  freshets. 
One  side  of  the  street  is  lined  with  solid  limestone  ware- 
houses and  business  blocks.  Bonsecours  Church,  Bonse- 
cours  Market,  and  the  Custom  House  stand  on  this 
street. 

The  harbor  is  a  forest  of  masts  and  funnels.  Here 
are  seen  great,  black  ocean  steamers ;  smaller  lake  steam- 
ers, painted  white ;  and  foreign  ships  with  tall  and  taper- 
ing masts.  The  most  pictures(|ue  vessel  is  that  of  the 
Canadian  farmer.  This  is  a  somewhat  clumsy  barge  for 
carrying  hay  and  wood  to  market.  It  is  a  flat-bottomed 
boat  with  a  square  bow  and  stern.  It  has  but  one 
mast,  and  is  I'igged  with  large  square  sails. 

The  farmer  unloads  a  I'iirt  of  his  cargo  on  the  wharves, 
and  stands  patiently  hy  until  a  customer  is  attracted, 
who  tiikes  either  the  whole  load  or  such  a  portion  as  he 
may  point  out.    A  few  yeai-s  ago  these  barges  were  found 


42 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


unloading  at  the  centml  wharves  of  the  liarbor,  bat  in- 
creasing business  has  now  pushed  them  fartlier  down 
the  river. 

The  people  of  Montreal  are  justly  proud  of  Victoria 
Bridge.  It  is  one  of  the  longest  bridges  in  the  world, 
and,  on  that  account,  has  been  called  the  eighth  wonder 
of  the  world.  It  consists  of  a  tube  or  square  box  of 
iron  twenty-two  feet  high,  sixteen  feet  wide,  and  a  mile 
and  three-quartei-s  long.  The  tube  is  supported  on 
twenty-four  piei-s  of  solid  masonry.  On  the  side  of 
each  pier  facing  up  the  river,  is  a  projection  of  stone 
shaped  like  a  wedge. 

When  the  ice  breaks  up  in  the  spring,  the  cakes  of  ice 
from  the  Great  Lakes  as  well  as  from  the  upper  St.  Law- 
rence pass  this  bridge.  The  river  bed  is  very  steep  at 
Montreal,  and  the  downward  rush  of  the  numerous 
cakes  of  ice  causes  them  to  press  with  enormous  force 
against  any  obstacle  in  their  path.  On  this  account, 
tlie  Victoria  Bridge  was  built  with  strong  wedges  to  the 
buttresses.  The  object  of  the  wedges  is  to  protect  the 
piei-s,  by  meeting  the  first  shock  of  the  descending  ice, 
and  by  dividing  the  cakes. 

The  bridge  is  designed  only  for  railway  trains,  which 
pass  through  the  long,  black  tube  in  six  minutes.  The 
passage  is  so  dull  and  cheerless  that  it  seems  to  the 
traveller  to  occupy  a  much  longer  time. 

The  season  of  the  spring  floods  is  a  period  of  great 
anxiety  to  the  people  of  Montreal.  The  sun  and  rain 
melt  the  ice,  which  has  long  kept  the  river  silent  from 
shore  to  shore.  The  cakes  of  ice  are  carried  down 
stream  until  they  run  aground  on  some  island.     More 


)or,  bat  in- 
ther  clown 

>f  Victoria 
the  world, 
ith  wonder 
ire  box  of 
and  a  mile 
iported  on 
lie  side  of 
II  of  stone 

akes  of  ice 
3r  St.  Law- 
ry  steep  at 
numerous 
nous  force 
s  account, 
Iges  to  the 
)rotect  the 
nding  ice, 

ins,  which 
ites.  The 
ms  to  the 

I  of  great 
1  and  rain 
ilent  from 
•ied  down 
id.     More 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


43 


cakes  are  carried  down  and  piled  above  the  first,  until 
what  is  known  as  an  ice  shove  is  formed.  This  is  noth- 
ing more  than  a  jumble  of  blocks  of  ice,  forming  a  huge 
embankment.  The  water,  being  dammed  by  the  ice 
shove,  floods  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  often  causing 
considerable  loss  to  the  merchants  of  Montreal. 

It  is  on  account  of  these  spring  freshets  that  the 
wharves  are  of  such  solid  construction,  that  the  river 
street  is  fortified  on  one  side  by  a  stone  wall,  and  that 
the  freight  sheds  and  other  buildings  upon  the  wharves 
are  all  movable. 

Sometimes,  during  the  freshets,  venturesome  men 
cross  the  St.  Lawrence  with  a  boat.  In  the  open  por- 
tions of  the  river  they  row,  but  in  crossing  the  shove, 
they  spring  from  the  boat,  and  draw  it  over  the  mass  of 
ice.  If  the  ice  gives  way  beneath  them,  they  save  them- 
selves by  springing  into  the  boat. 

Bonsecoure  Market  looks  out  on  the  river  street.  It 
is  a  great  parallelogram  two  stories  high,  built  of  cut 
stone,  and  surmounted  with  a  noticeable  dome  and 
cupola.  The  provision  dealers  have  their  stalls  on  the 
first  floor ;  and.  in  the  basement,  kitchen  utensils,  hard- 
ware, tin,  wooden  and  glass  wares  can  be  found.  Tues- 
days and  Fridays  are  the  best  days  for  paying  a  visit  to 
the  market,  for  then  the  square  is  thronged  with  country 
peasants  bringing  their  wares  to  the  city  for  sale. 

On  the  sidewalk,  beneath  the  shadow  of  the  market 
building  itself,  are  small  booths  and  stalls,  supported  by 
its  stone  walls.  On  the  outer  edge  of  the  walk  is  an 
apparently  endless  line  of  wagons,  laden  with  farm  pro- 
duce.    Such  very  queer  wagons  as  they  are !     Heavy, 


44 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 


unwieldy,  and  with  can  enormous  quantity  of  woodwork 
about  tlieni,  they  resemble  the  ancient  hay  cart.  The 
hoi-ses,  with  their  noses  in  the  heaps  of  hay  spread  liefore 
them  for  tlieir  refreshment,  munch  drowsily,  while  their 
ownei's  quietly  scan  the  passing  people  for  a  customer. 

Chickens,  butter,  and  eggs  are  temptingly  displayed 
on  this  brightly  painted  cart  at  our  right.  Opposite, 
sits  a  fat  old  country  woman  in  a  broad-brimmed  straw 
hat.  She  has  a  store  of  scarfs,  kerchiefs,  and  colored 
yarns  on  her  small  counter.  Here  is  a  handsome  girl 
with  dark  liair  and  eyes,  selling  cherries.  Close  beside 
her  is  a  withered  old  crone,  with  a  cartload  of  onions, 
radishes,  beets,  and  potatoes.  A  whole  family  preside 
over  another  battered  old  wagon,  wherein  are  disi)layed 
stacks  of  brown  bread  and  curiously  carved  cakes  of 
maple  sugar. 

Although  the  market  place  is  the  scene  of  so  much  life 
and  action,  it  is  very  (juiet.  Here  is  seen  the  French 
gesture  and  the  Frencli  shrug,  but  the  high-pitched 
French  voice  is  wanting.  The  French  Canadian  peas- 
ants murmur  softly  over  their  bargaining.  The  ownei-a 
Imve  no  fixed  price  for  anything.  They  genemlly  begin 
by  asking  just  twice  the  sum  they  expect  to  receive  for 
tile  article  to  l)e  sold,  while  the  purchaser  as  regularly 
offers  one-half  the  owner's  first  price.  So  they  haggle 
in  their  soft,  dreamy  voices,  each  party  seeking  advan- 
tage over  the  other,  and  each  enjoying  the  bargaining 
without  thinking  of  the  loss  of  time.  Instead  of  the 
rush  of  an  American  place  of  business,  the  market  has 
an  air  of  repose  and  cheerful  friendliness,  delightful 
to  see. 


'^tSfe. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


45 


woodwork 
jart.  Tlie 
eatl  l)ef()rc 
vhile  tlieir 
ustomor. 
displayed 
Opposite, 
lied  straw 
id  colored 
Isoiiic  girl 
ose  beside 
of  onions, 
ly  preside 
displayed 
I  cakes  of 

■)  much  life 
lie  French 
gh-pitched 
dian  peas- 
'he  ownera 
•ally  begin 
i-eceive  for 
regularly 
ley  haggle 
ng  advan- 
liargaining 
jad  of  the 
iiarket  has 
delightful 


Close  by  llonsecours  Maikct  is  llonsccoui's  Church, 
into  which  the  jicasaiit  often  steals  during  market  hours, 
to  pray  before  the  shrine  of  some  saint.  Jt  is  a  very 
plain  little  structun^  and  is  over  two  hundred  years  old. 
A  number  of  small,  shabby  booths  and  restaurants  are 
bolstered  up  by  the  walls  of  the  church.  'J'hey  (ding  to 
the  venerable  building  as  barnacles  to  a  ship.  The 
interior  of  the  church,  with  its  colored  bas-reliefs,  sculp- 
tures, altar,  and  quaint  pulpit,  is  like  the  interior  of  the 
ancient  churches  in  Northern  Fi-ance. 

One  or  two  facts  of  history  must  now  lie  given  that 
you  may  understand  the  state  of  society  in  the  jirovince 
of  Quebec.  This  region  was  first  settled  by  the  French, 
who  built  many  churches,  monasteries,  and  convents, 
and  lived  here  u'.aistuibed  for  over  one  hundred  yeai-s. 
Then,  in  a  g''jat  war  between  France  and  England,  the 
English  colonists  living  in  the  region  which  is  now  the 
United  States,  came  against  Canada,  and  coiujuered  it 
for  the  English  crown.  After  peace  was  declared,  the 
whole  of  Canada  was  open  to  English  settlei-s,  who  came 
flocking  in  from  the  British  Isles.  So  it  has  come  to 
pass  that,  at  the  present  day,  there  are  living  side  by 
side  in  Montreal,  Protestant  Englishmen  and  Catholic 
Frenchmen. 

The  city  is  divided  into  the  French  and  English 
quarters,  the  east  and  the  west  ends.  There  is  a 
spirit  of  rivalry  between  the  two  races,  "\\  Inch  is  shown 
very  plainly  in  the  erection  of  churches  and  buildings 
for  charitable  pui-poses.  The  French  endow  a  school 
for  Catholics,  the  English  one  for  Protestants;  the 
French  establish  a  Catholic  hospital,  the  English  follow 


I  I 


46 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


I  ' 


I! 


with  its  rival.  All  over  tlio  city  rise  tlu;  doniL's  of 
Ciitliolit!  ciitliiMlrals  and  tiie  H[)iies  of  Ku^rjisli  churches; 
HO  that  Montreal  comes  fairly  by  its  name  of  tlie  "City 
of  Churches." 

Notre  Dame,  with  the  exception  of  the  catliedral  in 
Mexi{!o,  is  the  largest  clnucii  of  America.  It  can  seat 
ten  thousand;  and,  on  unusual  occasions,  when  chairs 
are  placed  in  the  aisles,  fifteen  thousand  can  1h3  accom- 
modated. The  cliurch  resembles  its  great  namesake,  the 
Notre  Dame  of  I'aris,  and  its  tall  twin  tcAvers  are  one 
of  the  notable  huubnarks  of  the  city.  They  are  over 
two  hundred  feet  high,  and  contain  a  peal  of  eleven 
bells,  the  most  sweet-toned  chimes  on  this  continent. 
The  largest  bell  weighs  over  twelve  tons,  and  is,  in 
weight,  the  fifth  bell  in  the  world.  Any  day,  on  going 
into  the  vast  cathedral,  you  may  see  pciusant  gills  and 
women  kneeling  l>efoi'e  the  high  altar  or  beforb  some 
shrine.  An  Indian  worshiper  telling  his  beads  is  no 
rare  siglit. 

The  Catholics  of  Montreal  are  not  wealthy,  yet  they 
undertake  and  accomplish  veiy  ambitious  feats  in  archi- 
tecture. Not  quite  forty  years  ago,  an  architecrt  Wivs 
sent  to  Rome  to  take  the  measurements  of  the  church 
of  St.  Peter's,  the  largest  church  in  the  world. 

He  was  commissioned  to  erect,  on  Dominion  Square 
in  Montreal,  a  churcli  one-third  the  size  of  St.  Peter's. 
With  the  single  exception  of  the  roof,  which  must  be 
pointed  to  shed  the  snow  easily,  it  was  to  be  an  exact 
copy  of  the  great  original.  With  its  mighty  dome  and 
elegant  front,  the  Canadian  St.  Peter's  is  a  great  orna- 
ment to  Montreal. 


-m  mm 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


47 


(lolllL'S     of 

cliurcilicH; 
the  "  City 

itliedml  ill 
It  ciiii  Heat 
lu'ii  chaii's 

iiesaku,  the 
jis  are  one 
y  are  over 
of  eleven 
continent, 
and  is,  in 
%  on  goinjT 
b  gills  and 
L'forb  some 
eads  is  no 

r,  yet  they 
ts  in  archi- 
hitecrt  was 
the  church 
I. 

ion  Square 
5t.  Peter's, 
h  must  be 
)e  an  exact 
'  dome  and 
great  orna- 


("iirisl  Chnrch  Cathedral,  tlu-  chief  ''rotcstant  church, 
is  built  ol  gray  stone,  with  triniiiiinj^H  (»f  line,  eream- 
colored  sandstone.  It  in  ver)'  much  like  ati  Knj,dish 
ciiiuch,  witii  its  pointed  spire,  its  tablets  set  in  the  walls, 
and  its  jjforgeons  pew  for  the  ci'ief  ollicial  of  tlie  city. 
The  tablets  bear  tlie  honored  names  and  in  some  cases 
the  titled  names  of  Hnglislimen  who  have  served  their 
Queeii  faithfully  in  the  jrovernment  of  her  great  Ameri- 
can proviiice  of  Canada.  In  one  part  of  the  ehunOi  is 
eonspieiiously  displayed  a  twittered  banner  which  was 
lK)rne  through  the  Crimean  War  with  honor  by  Her 
Majesty's  Canadian  Volunteei-s.  It  was  luuig  in  the 
church  on  the  occasion  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  present- 
ing a  iU!W  banner  to  the  regiment. 

Massive  monasteries  t'ud  the  high  vv^alls  of  convents  are 
seen  on  nearly  every  street.  Perhaps  the  most  noted 
convent  is  that  of  tiie  (J ray  Sisters,  who  are  aided  in 
their  good  work  by  both  ('atholics  and  Protestants. 
They  care  for  the  orphans,  the  ag.  ;l,  and  the  iuHrm,  and 
take  charge  of  various  asylums  and  schools  in  different 
parts  of  the  city. 

It  is  customary  for  the  traveler  to  visit  their  hospitiil 
at  noon,  when  he  sees  the  sisters  at  nud<lay  mass  in  the 
chapel.  This  is  a  somewhat  bare,  clieerless  room,  with 
whitened  walls.  The  usual  pictures  and  statues  of  saints 
form  the  sole  adornment  of  the  place. 

^U  the  stroke  of  tv/elve  the  sisters  enter  two  by  two, 
the  lady  sui)erior  bringing  uj)  the  r-jar.  The  nuns  are 
dressed  in  gray,  coai-se  material,  blue-checked  apro  s, 
and  black  crape  caps  faced  with  white.  The  fii-st  two 
nuns  are  young  girls  whose  pale  faces  wear  a  look  of 


IH 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


iH'rfcct  ]>oii('o.  Till'  liuly  HUiiciior  IkiMh  a  liyinii  l»o(tk 
with  wliidi  .slu3  lends  tliciii  in  llii-ir  ilcvotions.  'I'lii- 
rliipliiiijf  tojfi'tlu!!'  of  tlio  iM)verH  of  the  book  is  tho  Higiial 
for  them  to  kneel  and  to  rise. 

'I'ho  French  of  Montreal  are  the  elass  which  clini,' 
most  closely  to  the  ways  of  the  past.  'Die  I'Jiglisli  are 
the  enteri)risinj(  class  who  ait!  heiit  on  dcvelopinjf  all  the 
possiiiilitics  of  the  city.  They  constitute  the  ciommereial 
and  maiuifactnring  element.  They  widen  the  streets, 
plan  tlu;  sipiares,  and  lay  out  the  pid)lie  parks  ;  and,  with 
the  excciitioii  of  the  churches,  erect  most  of  the  puhlie 
l)uildinj,'s.  There  are,  in  the  western  part  of  the  city, 
line  l)road  streets,  shaded  witli  large  trees,  and  lined 
witii  handsome  stone  dwelling  houses.  Many  of  these 
houses  stand  in  the  midst  of  line  grounds. 

in  the  French  quarter  there  are  narrow  little  street**, 
in  which  often  nothing  is  seen  to  remind  one  that  he  is 
in  an  American  eity  belonging  to  I'^nglaiid.  All  is 
purely  French  in  api)earance. 

The  house  is  one  story  or  one  story  and  a  half  high, 
and  opens  directly  ui)on  the  street  pavement.  Within 
is  disclosed  the  living  room,  scrupulously  neat,  with 
brilliantly  colored  prints  of  the  Pope,  or  of  some  favorite 
saint,  upon  the  wall.  Madame,  large,  tall,  and  fat,  bends 
over  the  cooking  stove.  Monsieur,  thin  and  gray,  read.-t 
his  paper  in  the  sunny  window,  while  the  black-eyed 
babies  toddle  and  creep  over  the  spotless  lloor. 

Every  aspect  of  the  city  beai-s  testimony  to  the  two- 
fold nature  of  its  inhabitants.  'J'he  hotels,  kept  in  the 
English  style,  have  French  waitei-s  and  French  cooks. 
The  goods  in  the  shops  are  Fhiglish,  but  they  are  sold 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS, 


hymn  luictk 
ions,  'I'lm 
s  tlu!  Mij;iial 

vliich  cliiii; 
ICn^lLsli  iiru 
piii^  all  thu 
(;oiniiuM'(tiiil 
the  HtriietH, 
I ;  and,  with 
thu  pui)lic 
A  the  city, 
,  and  linud 
iiy  of  tlicso 

ttlo  Htreets, 
'  (hat  he  in 
.1.      All  Is 

I  half  high, 
it.     Within 

neat,  with 
•n»o  favorite 
d  fat,  bends 
gray,  reads 

black-eyed 
r. 

to  the  two- 
kept  in  the 
3nch  cook.s. 
ey  are  sold 


by  French  clerks.  Through  the  quaint  streets,  which 
have  Imjcii  piously  nanied  for  sonio  old  saints,  tinkle  the 
American  hoi-se  cars.  In  and  out  amongst  the  motley 
crowd  of  prosperous  Knglish  merchants,  (anions  Yankee 
tourists,  and  pushing  Irish  cabmen,  glide  the  sond)ro 
priest  and  the  gray  nun  with  her  pale  and  downcast 
face.  There  is  plaiidy  an  un-American,  not  to  say  for- 
eign, air  about  Montreal. 

Like  many  of  the  towns  of  Normandy  and  Hrittany, 
Montreal  was  asleep  for  over  one  hinidred  years. 
Hut  the  middle  of  this  eentury  witnes.sed  the  late 
awakening  of  this  city  of  the  North.  A  place  nnist  bo 
indeed  dead,  in  which  no  hidden  life  could  be  aroused 
by  such  evciiti  as  the  opening  of  the  St.  Lawrence  sys- 
tem ot  canals,  the  erection  of  the  Victoria  Hridge,  the 
building  of  the  (J rand  Trunk  Uailroad,  and  the  establish- 
ment of  a  line  of  ocean  steamei-s  l)etween  Montreal  and 
Kurope.  Montreal  has  taken  immense  strides  forward 
commercially  in  the  last  twenty-five  years,  and  the 
future  alone  can  show  to  what  vast  importance  she  may 
attain. 


CHAPTER  V. 

WINTER   IN  CANADA. 


Canada  is  so  far  north  of  our  country  that  you  might 
think  of  the  winter  as  exceedingly  cold  and  severe,  and 
picture  the  Canadians  shivering  before  great  logs  blaz- 
ing in  their  open  fireplaces.      But  such  is  not  the  case. 


''m 


60 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


It  is  true  the  weather  is  at  times  intensely  cold  ;  the 
theimometer  falls  to  points  so  far  below  zero,  as  almost 
to  frighten  a  citizen  of  the  U:.ited  States.  But  the 
skies  are  clear  and  blue  ;  the  air  is  dry ;  and  the  cold 
is  so  bracing  that  one  is  inspired  to  unusual  outdoor 
exertions. 

Here  tliere  are  no  fogs,  sleet,  slush,  or  east  winds, 
such  as  make  winter  in  some  regions  of  the  United 
States  very  unpleasant.  There  are  rarely  any  sudden 
changes  of  weather.  \V  hen  the  snow  comes,  it  comes 
to  stay ;  and  the  Canadian  boy,  looking  out  at  the  first 
shining  snowstorm  of  the  season,  realizes  th.at  three  de- 
lightful months  of  uninterrupted  pleasure  lie  before  him. 
Winter  in  Canada  begins  in  December.  Christmas 
Day  always  finds  the  earth  clad  in  its  mantle  of  snow. 
The  most  intense  winter  days  come  in  January.  By 
the  end  of  March,  the  winter  is  over  in  Ontario,  and 
spring  ploughing  and  planting  begin  with  tlw  coming 
of  the  v>arra  April  days.  Spring  is  three  weeks  later 
in  the  more  northern  province  of  Quebec. 

The  Canadian  rejoices  in  his  winter.  He  would  not 
change  it  for  the  sunny,  flower-scented  winters  of  Flor- 
ida or  of  Spain.  These  three  months  are  the  crown  of 
the  year  to  him,  for  they  are  filled  with  most  delightful 
and  healthful  pastimes,  —  with  skating,  sleighing,  snow- 
shoeing,  tobogganing,  and  ice  boating.  Young  and  old 
are  wild  with  excitement  at  the  firat  snowstorm.  The 
grandfather  becomes  as  youthful  as  the  grandchild,  and 
joins  as  eagerly  as  any  one  in  the  sports  of  the  hour. 

Canada  is  the  land  where  King  Winter  holds  high 
court.     In  1883  the  first  winter  Carnival  was  held  in 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


61 


y  cold ;  the 
o,  as  almost 
i.  But  the 
,iid  the  cold 
ual  outdoor 

east  winds, 

the   United 

any  sudden 

les,  it  comes 

,  at  the  first 

>at  three  de- 

}  hefore  him. 

Christmas 

tie  of  snow. 

vnuary.     By 

3utario,  and 

th«.  coming 

weeks  later 

e  would  not 
iters  of  Flor- 
;he  crown  of 
»st  delightful 
ghing,  snow- 
)ung  and  old 
storm.  The 
mdchild,  and 
the  hour, 
r  holds  high 
was  held  in 


Montreal,  and  it  was  such  a  success  that  almost  every 
year  since,  a  similar  Carnival  has  taken  place. 

We  will  supjjose  that  you  are  a  bright,  intelligent, 
sclioolboy  from  the  United  States,  who  is  spending  Car- 
nival week  in  Montred.  What  are  some  of  the  inter- 
esting sights  you  would  see,  and  what  are  some  of  the 
pleasant  s])orts  you  would  enjoy?  You,  like  many  of 
your  countrymen,  have  imagined  that  life  in  Canada 
during  winter  was  a  dead-and-alive  sort  of  existence. 
So  you  are  very  much  surprised  by  the  glimpses  of  the 
city  of  Montreal  that  you  catch  on  driving  to  your 
hotel. 

Every  one  seems  to  be  outdoors  and  enjoying  himself. 
Skaters  are  on  the  river,  gliding  to  and  fro ;  graceful 
sleighs,  furnished  with  buffalo  robea,  and  carrying  bright, 
rosy  faces,  speed  past  you  ;  jingiin^'  bells  and  snatches 
of  song  and  laughter  are  the  sounds  that  greet  yovir 
ears.  Every  one  seems  to  be  having  a  thoroughly  jolly 
time. 

On  Monday  evening,  the  fu*st  night  of  the  Carnival, 
the  whole  city  goes  to  Dominion  S(piare  to  see  the 
illumination  of  the  Ice  Palace.  This  is  a  great  build- 
ing which  is  made  entirely  of  ice  and  snow.  The  blocks 
of  ice  used  in  making  it  are  four  feet  long  by  two  v/ide. 
They  are  cemented  together  by  snow,  and  then  water 
is  pumped  over  the  whole,  so  that  the  palace  is  frozen 
into  a  firm,  compact  structure.  If  any  one  wished  to 
separate  the  ice  into  blocks  again,  he  would  have  to 
saw  them  apart.  The  palace  is  square,  with  square 
towers  at  each  corner,  and  a  larger  tower,  one  hundred 
feet  high,  in  the  centre. 


Ti 


1 


62 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE, 


In  the  sunlight  or  the  moonlight,  the  Ice  Palace  is 
a  wonderfully  dazzling  sight.  And  now,  on  this  in- 
auguration night,  illuminated  by  electricity,  it  is  mar- 
velously  Iwautiful.  It  seems  to  you  like  a  fairy  palace, 
which  the  wand  of  some  powerful  magician  has  called 
into  being.  I'uritle,  green,  crimson,  and  gold  lights 
are  burned  within,  and  in  their  radiance  the  palace 
looks  like  glass.     It  is  like  a  brilliant  bubble  or  a  rain- 


li-i 


THE    ICE    PALACE. 


bow ;  and,  almost  unconsciously,  you  hold  your  breath 
for  fear  the  slightest  motion  of  the  air  will  cause  the 
magic  structure  to  vanish. 

The  snow  begins  to  fall,  but  the  crowd  still  linger 
in  front  of  the  Ice  Palace,  as  if  expecting  something. 
You  decide  to  wait,  too,  and  sooii  from  far  away  you 
hear  tlie  tram[),  tramp,  tramp,  of  human  feet.  The 
steady  sound  is  like  the  march  of  an  army.     Presently 


'  is 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


53 


Palace  is 
1  this  in- 
it  is  mar- 
ry palace, 
has  called 
)ld  lights 
lie  palace 
or  a  rain- 


)ur  breath 
cause  the 

itill  linger 
iomethiiig. 
away  you 
eet.  The 
Presently 


Rfteen  hundred  men  on  sn.)wshoes  march  into  tlie 
square,  each  carrying  a  torch  in  one  hand  and  a 
Roman  candle,  shooting  oil"  brilliant  lights,  in  the 
other.     It  is  a  procession  of  snowshoc  clubs. 

Each  company  has  a  differently  colored  dress,  which 
forms  the  badge  of  the  club.  Fiiwt,  marches  the  oldest 
club  of  all,  the  Montreal,  known  by  the  blue  cap. 
The  fit.  (k'orge  follows;  then  come  the  Emerald,  St. 
Andrews,  Prince  of  Wales  RiHes,  Mount  Royal,  and  the 
representatives  of  the  suowshoe  clubs  at  Ottawa  and 
Quebec. 

The  costume  of  the  snowshoers  consists  of  a  blanket 
coat,  reaching  halfway  to  the  knees,  and  short  blanket 
trousers.  Ulie  blankets  are  white,  bordered  with  stripes 
of  various  bright  colore.  They  are  made  up  with  the 
stripes  edging  the  coat.  A  sash  is  wound  around  the 
waist  many  times  and  knotted  over  the  hips.  A  hood, 
very  mv:L  like  the  hootls  worn  by  the  monks  of  the 
Middle  Ages,  hangs  midway  down  the  back  of  the  coat, 
That  is  merely  for  ornament,  as  the  real  covering  for 
the  head  is  a  conical,  knit  cap,  ornamented  with  a 
tassel  at  the  top.  It  is  worn  lf)w  over  the  ears,  and  is 
allowed  to  droop  on  one  side.  Thick  gloves  or  mittens, 
long  stockings,  and  moccasins,  together  with  the  snow- 
shoes,  complete  the  suit. 

The  t^ostumes  of  the  various  clulxs  differ  from  one 
another  merely  in  the  coku-s  chosen.  The  dress  is  always 
of  the  same  material  and  make. 

The  purple  and  white  costume  of  the  St.  George  Club 
is  very  pretty.  The  stripes  on  the  coat  and  hood,  the 
sash,  stockings,  and  mittens  are  purple.     The  remainder 


-f!l 


•I 


it 'I 


1 


:■» 


54 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


of  the  suit  is  white.  The  cap  has  wide  purple  and  white 
stiipes,  with  a  purple  tassel.  A  purple  St.  George's 
cross  adorns  the  chest. 

The  snowshoer's  costume  is  very  warm  and  conven- 
ient, and  is  the  dress  worn  by  tobogganers  as  well. 
Ladies  are  often  members  of  these  clubs.  Their  dre.ss 
is  like  that  of  the  men,  except  that  their  coat  is  a  long 
ulster  reaching  to  the  ankles. 

All  this  time  the  procession  has  been  winduig  around 
and  through  the  palace,  which,  by  tlie  light  of  torches 
and  iireworks,  appears  more  splendid  than  ever.  Now, 
followed  by  a  portion  of  the  crowd,  it  leaves  the  city, 
and  winds  away  tlirough  dark,  quiet  roads  to  pine-clad 
Mount  Royal.  The  procession  resembles  a  fiery  ser- 
pent, as  it  curves  in  and  out  among  the  trees;  now 
pausing  to  wait  for  the  stragglers,  and  now  pressing  on 
again  sturdily.  At  last  it  reaches  the  sunmiit,  and,  wav- 
ing its  lights  to  signal  good  by  to  those  watching  far 
below,  it  vanishes  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountain. 

You  gaze  upward  fascinated,  long  after  the  lights  have 
gone.  You  still  hear  the  hoo-oo-oo  of  the  snowshoers, 
and  the  crunch  of  the  wet  snow  under  the  feet  of  the 
sturdy  Canadians.  What  fine,  strong,  atliletic  fellows 
they  are  !  You  admire  them  vith  your  whole  soul,  and 
resolve  that,  if  you  can,  you  will  learn  to  use  snow- 
shoes,  and  will  join  them  on  their  next  tramp  over  the 
country. 

You  obtain  a  pair  of  snowshoes,  and  wisely  spend  an 
hour  in  studying  them  before  attempting  to  use  them. 
Roughly  speaking,  their  shape  is  like  that  of  a  tennis 
racket.    They  are  about  four  feet  long. 


-m 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


55 


nd  white 
George's 

conven- 

as  well. 

leir  dress 

is  a  long 

g  around 
f  torches 
Now, 
the  city, 
pine-clad 
liery  scr- 
ees; now 
easing  on 
and,  wav- 
iching  far 
ntain. 
ghts  have 
owshoers, 
set  of  the 
ic  fellows 
soul,  and 
use  snow- 
>  over  the 

spend  an 
use  them. 
E  a  tennis 


A  strip  of  to'igh  ash,  alxiut  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
thick,  is  bent  to  form  an  oval,  and  the  ends  are  strongly 
bound  together.  These  ends  form  the  heel  of  the 
snowshoc.  The  shape  of  the  shoe  is  kept  by  means  of 
two  crosspieces,  one  near  the  front  of  the  shoe,  the  other 
near  the  heel.  The  whole  interior  is  then  covered  by 
j8  a  strong  network  of  raw  hide.     Just  back  of  the  tii-st 

crosspiece  is  an  open  space  about  three  or  four  inches 
square.  This  is  where  the  toes  come  when  the  shoe  is 
on,  and,  owing  to  the  absencie  of  the  network,  they  can 
move  up  and  down  as  freely  as  in  ordinary  walking. 
The  shoe  is  fastened  to  the  foot  by  straps  of  deerskin. 

The  snow  most  common  in  the  United  States  is  veiy 
moist.  It  is  the  kind  useful  in  making  snowballs  and 
snow  forts,  and  is  called  l)y  scloolboys,  sticky  snow. 
Although  this  kind  of  snow  sometimes  does  fall  in  Can- 
ada, yet  the  kind  with  which  the  people  are  most  familiar 
differs  very  much  from  this. 

It  is  dry,  hard,  and  gritty.  Roll  in  it,  and,  on  rising, 
it  can  be  shaken  off  as  easily  as  grains  of  sand.  When 
your  mother  sweeps  a  room,  she  sometimes  sprinkles  wet 
tea  leaves  on  the  carpet.  The  dust  clings  to  the  leaves, 
and  both  are  brushed  up  together.  In  Canada,  they  use 
snow  instead  of  tea  leaves,  when  sweeping  rooms.  It 
can  be  brushed  up  as  easily  as  sand. 

However  convenient  this  kind  of  snow  may  be  at 
times,  it  is  very  difficult  to  walk  upon,  as  it  rarely 
forms  a  crust.  It  is  so  very  mealy  and  yielding  that  it 
cannot  support  the  weight  of  a  man.  The  Indians, 
forced  to  hunt  for  food  in  all  seasons,  invented  the 
snowshoe,  by  means  of  which  the   weight  is  thrown 


^g'^mmr. 


I 


Ml 


i'^ 


:     ( 


II 


56 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


upon  and  supported  by  a  larger  surface  than  it  is  in 
the  ordinary  walking  boot.  Tlie  Canadians  have  adopted 
it,  and  it  now  makes  walking  after  a  heavy  snowstorm 
a  delightful  possibility. 

In  attempting  to  use  snowshoes  you  i.iake  the  usual 
mistake  of  keeping  the  feet  too  far  apart,  and  of  walk- 
ing with  unnatural  movements.  But  after  several  tum- 
bles into  snowdrifts,  you  learn  to  move  the  feet  just 
as  in  ordinary  walking,  merely  lifting  one  snowshoe  up 
and  over  the  other. 

A  few  hours'  practice  enables  you  to  feel  fairly  con- 
fident in  your  powers,  and  arouses  an  eager  longing  for 
the  day  of  the  tramp  of  the  St.  George  Club,  which  you 
have  been  asked  to  join. 

At  three  o'clock  on  the  appointed  day,  you  find  a 
throng  of  eager  fellows  in  the  McGill  College  grounds. 
Some  are  chatting  gaily,  some  are  examining  the  straps 
of  their  snowshoes,  others  are  studying  the  weather, 
and  consulting  about  the  prospects  of  a  storm  before 
night.  At  length  the  captain  gives  the  signal,  and  they 
march  out  of  the  city. 

Wlien  they  have  arrived  at  the  crossroads,  where  the 
deeper  snow  is  found,  a  lialt  is  ordered.  Here  the  snow- 
shoes,  which  have  been  slung  on  the  backs,  are  put  on, 
and  in  single  file  the  procession  moves  on  again.  And 
now,  with  shouts  and  halloos,  the  club  breaks  into  a  wild 
run  across  the  country. 

You  and  a  few  others,  who  are  taking  a  first  run  to- 
day, are  left  far  in  the  rear.  An  officer  called  the 
"whipper-in,"  whose  duty  it  is  to  assist  the  laggards, 
keeps  near  by  to  encourage  you. 


'«)» 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


57 


it  is  in 

I  adopted 
owstorm 

lie  usual 
of  walk- 
jral  tuni- 
feet  just 
vshoe  up 

lirly  con- 
iging  for 
hich  you 

II  find  a 
grounds, 
lie  straps 
weather, 
m  before 
and  they 

vheve  the 
;he  snow- 
e  put  on, 
in.  And 
ito  a  wild 

st  run  to- 
illed  the 
laggards, 


There  are  scores  of  fences  to  be  climbed  in  the  course 
of  the  tramp.  The  freshest  of  the  club  vault  the  fence 
at  a  run ;  some  climb  pantingly  over;  while  a  few  catch 
their  shoes  in  the  bars  and  fall  headlong  into  the  deep 
drifts.  Then  what  shouts  of  good-natured  laughter  arise, 
as  the  poor  fellows  are  drawn  out  by  the  heels ! 

The  coui-se  is  now  over  a  level  plain.  The  captixin 
ordera  the  company  to  charge  it ;  and  with  a  wild  liur- 
rah,  away  they  go,  as  fleet  as  the  Avind.  They  seem  to 
be  beside  themselves  with  excitement  and  delight  in  the 
snow.  Gray-haired  men  leap  fences  like  boys,  while 
others  attempt  a  race  with  a  locomotive.  The  hoi-scs 
on  the  road  are  frightened  by  their  shouts,  but  the  snow- 
shoers  are  lost  to  everything  but  their  own  pleasure. 

At  last,  in  the  gray  January  twilight,  they  arrive  at 
the  little  inn  where  tliey  are  to  rest  and  take  supper, 
before  returning. 

Snowshoes  are  thrown  off ;  snowy  coais  and  caps  are 
beaten  and  piled  in  corners ;  the  icicles  hanging  from 
beards  and  mustaches  are  melted  ;  and  all  due  prepara- 
tion for  supper  is  made.  What  an  appetite  every  one 
has  !  The  hot  joints  of  meat  are  soon  disposed  of,  and 
the  weary  snowshoers  throw  themselves  down  to  rest 
—  a  few  on  sofas  and  chaii-s,  but  the  majority  on  the 
floor  before  the  blazing  fire. 

Then  a  curious  entertainment  begins.  The  whole 
party  sing  one  of  their  choruses,  and  then  different 
members  of  the  club  are  called  upon  to  sing,  dance,  and 
tell  stories. 

And  now  they  proceed  to  "  bounce  "  you  and  the 
other  newcomers.      Two  lines  are  formed,  and  those  at 


-Ttll'! 


H 


ii  ! 


I 


58 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


the  top  take  a  firm  grip  of  your  clothes,  telling  you  to 
"  hold  yourself  ivs  rigid  as  possible."  You  are  a  little 
frightened,  and  close  your  eyes,  as  you  find  youi-self 
jerked  down  the  line,  aiid  caught  in  the  arms  of  those 
at  the  end.  Then  you  are  sent  hack  in  the  same  man- 
ner; and  when,  very  uiuc''  huwildered,  y»»u  are  set  \ipon 
your  itib':  again,  you  conclude  that,  after  all,  "bounc- 
ing "  wiiS  pretty  good  fun. 

Finally  there  is  a  considtation  of  watches,  and  all 
rise  to  sing  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  the  national  song 
which  always  closes  an  evening's  enteuainment.  Coats 
and  snowshoes  are  slipped  on :  and,  with  a  ringing  cheer 
to  the  little  in  and  its  hospitulAe  keeper,  the  club 
troop  homeward  under  the  clear,  blue  sky  and  brilliant 
stars. 

However  popular  snowshoeing  may  be,  skating  i& 
truly  the  national  sport  of  Canada.  This  will  not  seem 
strange  to  any  one  who  thinks  of  the  great  frozen  sur- 
faces of  the  country,  —  the  St.  Lawrence  and  its  five 
Great  Lakes. 

Duiing  the  Carnival,  races  and  skating  contests  take 
place  on  the  river.  The  spectators  stixnd  about  on  the 
ice,  just  beyond  the  coui-se  marked  for  the  skaters. 
First  comes  a  two-mile  race  on  skates,  followed  by  a 
quarter-mile  backward  race ;  then  a  hurdle  race ;  and 
thei  a  barrel  race. 

A  hurdle  is  something  lil:e  a  baned  gate,  with  all 
the  bars  except  the  top  one  i-enoved.  The  hurdles  are 
placed  along  the  course,  and  the  skaters  are  obliged  to 
leap  them  in  the  race,  iou  svould  suppose  tlia.;,  with 
skates  upon  their  feet>  they  could  never  be  successful, 


■  ">  I"  i"¥A«SUUWl' 


I 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


59 


g  you  to 

0  a  little 
youi-self 
of  those 

mie  mail- 
set  upon 

,  "boiiiic- 

1,  ami  all 
)nal  song 
t.  Coats 
iiig  cheer 
the  club 
brilliant 

katiiig   is 

not  seem 

ozen  sur- 

d  its  five 

tests  take 
jfc  on  the 
3  skaters, 
wed  by  a 
ace ;   and 

,  with  all 
irdles  are 
bliged  to 
thai/,  with 
uccessiul, 


or,  if  they  cleared  the  hurdle  at  all,  they  would  fall  in  a 
heai)  uiKHi  the  other  side.  Hut  many  of  the  skaters  are 
wonderfully  proficient  in  this  art.  They  skate  along  at 
full  speed,  leap  the  hurdle,  alight  on  their  skates,  and 
move  along  as  swiftly  as  liefore.  Many  of  them  look 
very  funny  as  they  jump.  Some  double  up  with  their 
head  and  knees  together,  while  others  lean  so  far  to 
one  side  as  to  seem  to  have  lo.^t  their  balance. 

The  barrel  race  for  boys  is  still  more  amusing.  Com- 
mon barrels  with  the  heads  removed  are  placed  on  the 
ice,  at  certain  distances  apart,  along  the  race  course,  for 
a  (luarter  of  a  mile.  Then,  at  a  given  signal,  all  the 
boys  skate  for  the  first  barrel.  Many  reach  it  together, 
and  there  is  considerable  of  a  scramble  to  get  through 
the  barrel.  A  skater  has  to  pass  through  every  barrel 
on  the  ice  to  win  the  race.  Sometimes  a  barrel  turns 
around  while  a  boy  is  working  his  way  through  it. 
The  boy  is  confused  on  coming  out,  and  skates  away  in 
just  the  wrong  direction,  until,  through  the  laughter  of 
the  spectatoi-s,  he  discovers  his  blunder.  How  the  Iwys 
and  the  barrels  bob  about  while  the  race  is  going  on ! 

There  are  two  kinds  of  skating  rinks,  —  the  covered 
and  the  open.  The  open  skating  rink  has  no  roof.  On 
clear,  bright  nights  it  is  much  more  thronged  than  the 
covered  rink.  How  teautiful  the  sight  as  you  look  up 
and  see  the  dark  blue  sky  and  the  bright,  twinkling  stsirs 
overhead!  The  skating  rinks  inclose  acres  of  clear,  level 
ice,  and  are  illuminated  with  electric  lights.  Seats  are 
arranged  for  spectator  around  the  sides  of  the  building, 
fountains  sparkle  here  and  there,  and  the  changing 
throng  of  skaters  is  a.  fascinating  picture. 


I; 
It 


60 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


Tho  Victoria  Skatiiij^  Kink  in  IMontrciil  in  tho  larjijest 
covered  skatiiij^  link  in  Canada.  On  the  oveniiijif  after 
tlie  iiiaugnration  of  the  lee  I'ala'^e,  you  and  your  friends 
attend  the  niius(juerado  given  there. 

On  entering  the  rink  you  are  dazzled  hy  the  great 
expanse  of  smooth,  carefully  scraped  ice.  Several  acres 
of  ice  are  inclosed  hy  the  great  walls  of  the  rink.  In 
the  centre  is  huilt  a  small  copy  of  the  Fee  Palace  in 
Dominion  S(Hiare.  It  is  lit  by  electric  and  coh»red 
lights,  and  fountains  play  within  its  walls.  Tiie  specita- 
toi-s'  seats  are  crowded,  and  it  is  with  dilliculty  that  you 
secure  a  i)lace. 

Presently  the  hand  begins  to  play,  and  throngs  of 
skatera  glide  from  the  cosey  dressing  rooms  out  uiuin 
the  ice.  Every  one  wears  a  mask,  and  is  arrayed  in 
some  fancy  dress,  grotescjue,  interesting,  or  l)eautiful. 

Here  are  charactei's  illustrating  the  early  history  of 
Canada,  —  Jactjues  Cartier,  Champlain,  Mcmtcalm,  and 
many  othei-s.  Steel-clad  warriors,  countesses  in  silk  and 
satin,  and  Indians  in  paint  and  wampum,  mingle  with 
delicate  fairies,  fiends  clad  in  red  jeiiieys  and  armed  with 
frightful  horns,  and  animals  from  fairyland.  Here  is 
our  friend  Bruin  in  shaggy  fur,  skating  away  as  if  that 
were  the  usual  means  by  which  beai-s  journeyed  across 
the  country.  Here  is  lied  Riding-Hood  hand  in  hand 
with  the  wolf.  See  that  child  in  quaint  Highland 
dress.  The  jilaid  stockings  are  as  becoming  to  the 
sturdy  legs  as  is  the  Scotch  cap  and  feather  to  the 
curly  hair.  Queen  Elizabeth  passes,  arm  in  arm  with  a 
humble  shepherdess. 

Fascinated  by  the  pretty  sight,  you  gaze  long  at  the 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


61 


10  larpfest 
iiijjf  after 
ir  trio  nils 

the  great 
iral  acres 
link.  In 
'alace  in 
I  colored 
le  spetita- 
that  yon 

irongs  of 
ont  iii)on 
•rayed  in 
ntiful. 
listory  of 
3alm,  and 
1  silk  and 
iigle  with 
mod  with 
Here  is 
IS  if  that 
ed  across 
.  in  hand 
Highland 
ig  to  the 
er  to  the 
m  with  a 

ig  at  the 


shifting  scene,  which  is  rendered  more  beautiful  by  its 
perfect  reflection  in  the  mirror  of  ice  IxjIow.  What  is  it 
that  comes  lumbering  this  way?  It  is  an  elephant.  It 
is  the  immortal  .lumbo!  Two  tine  skaters  are  represent- 
ing him.  Their  disguise  is  capital ;  for -IuuiIh)  appeal's 
OH  natural  as  life,  and  seems  (piite  at  home  on  the  ice. 

Now  the  music  changes  to  a  lively  valtz,  and  the 
skatei-s  take  part  in  the  dance  with  ptfect  ease  and 
grace.  A  s(iuare  dance  follows.  Some  of  the  skaters 
give  an  exhibition  of  fancy  skating  in  a  less  crowded 
corner  of  the  rink.  • 

While  watching  them,  you  wonder  if  anywhere  in 
the  world  there  are  their  etpials.  You  doubt  it.  A 
maypole,  decked  with  colored  ribbons,  is  set  up  on  the 
ice.  A  dozen  of  the  best  skateiw  seize  the  ends  of  the 
ribbons,  and  waltz  about  the  pole  to  the  sound  of  music, 
until  all  the  ribbons  have  been  wound  around  it. 

At  nine  o'clock  the  masks  are  removed,  and  the 
merry,  laughing  faces  of  the  skaters  are  revealed. 
Prizes  are  then  awarded  to  those  wearing  the  most 
historically  correct  or  most  ideally  beautiful  costumes. 
When  the  band  plays  "God  save  the  Queen,"  at  the 
close  of  the  entertainment,  you  realize  that  one  of  the 
most  enjoyable  of  the  Carnival  evenings  is  at  an  end. 

But  there  are  plenty  of  other  joys  remaining,  among 
them  the  sleighing.  The  Russians  are  the  people 
most  devoted  to  sleighing  in  the  Old  World,  and  the 
Canadians  in  the  New.  The  Canadian  roads  are  hard 
and  perfectly  adapted  to  sleighing  throughout  the 
winter.  There  are  no  sudden  changes  of  weather, 
which  make  runners  necessary  one  day  and  wheels  the 


P^'*4lHP^ito«  - 


62 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE, 


next.  Tlie  ordinary  Hleiph,  or  cutter,  in  a  very  pretty 
vuhiflo.  It  hu«  Hh'iuler,  delicatt'ly  curvtul  ruimei'H,  and 
a  Iwautifully  Hliai»ud,  yet  ttoiiiuiodioiw  body. 

All  afti'viiooii  rido  in  HivmI  St.  James  Street,  during 
Carnival  time,  in  thontu^'hly  enj«»yal)li'.  All  thii  tine 
oiiuipages  are  out,  and  everywhere!  are  seen  liandaonio 
sleighs,  prancing  horses,  and  line  liveries. 

There  are  sleighing  clubs  in  Mt)ntreal  and  other 
cities  of  Canada.  These  elul)s,  like  the  snowshoeing 
cluks,  have  their  meeting  plaees,  their  exeui-sions  into 
the  open  country,  their  jolly  supi)ers  or  dinners  at 
some  distant  lit  tie  inn,  and  their  gay  moonlight  returns 
to  the  city.  The  Tandem  (Uub  is  on«  of  the  most 
noted  of  the  sleighing  clubs  of  Montreal. 

The  Canadian  is  indebted  to  the  Indian,  not  only  for 
the  snowshoe,  but  also  for  the  toboggan.  On  snow- 
shoes  the  Indian  is  able  to  follow  the  deer  into  its 
deepest  forest  retreats,  and,  after  he  has  brought  down 
his  prey,  to  draw  it  home  on  his  toboggan.  This  is  a 
kind  of  sled,  built  so  that  it  can  move  over  the  lightest 
and  most  powdery  snow  without  sinking. 

In  making  the  toboggan,  two  pieces  of  basswood  six 
feet  long  and  two  feet  wide  are  planed  down  to  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  they  are  steamed  to 
make  them  flexible ;  and  then  they  are  fastened  together 
by  four  or  five  bars  of  wood.  One  end  is  curved 
upward  aiul  backward  like  the  dashboard  of  a  sleigh, 
and  is  held  in  this  position  by  wires.  Two  thin  strips 
of  wood  are  fastened  along  the  sides,  and  the  toboggan 
is  com[)lete,  so  far  as  its  Indian  maker  is  concerned. 
The  Canadian  purchaser  adtls  a  cushion. 


I 


'■>IH      '-W*!^ 


I 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


08 


ery  pretty 
iiuei'u,  utul 

!Ct,  (luring 
I  tlui  fnuj 
liaiitUoiiio 

and  other 
ownhooing 
■sioiiH  into 
linncrs  at 
lit  returns 
the  most 

)t  only  for 
On  Hnow- 
•r  into  its 
light  down 
Tliis  is  a 
he  lightest 

98\vood  six 
vvn  to  one- 
iteanied  to 
id  together 

is  curved 
)f  a  sleigh, 
thin  strips 
e  toboggan 

concerned. 


The  tohoggftn  can  he  used  on  any  hillside;  but  as 
there  are  ai)t  to  Ihj  inetiualities  in  the  surface  of  a  hill, 
artificial  ulides  are  also  built. 

The  tolM.ggan  slide  on  Mount  Uoyal,  which  is 
throiigt^d  (hiring  Carnival  time,  is  artilicial.  It  consists 
of  a  stcop  inclined  i-laiio,  built  of  h.gs  and  planks  and 
covered  with  ice.  Up  one  side  of  the  slide,  stci.s  are 
cut  for  the  tobogganers  to  climb  while  drawing  their 
t..b<)ggans  after  them.  There  is  a  small  platform  at 
the  top,  where  one  can  place  his  toboggan  in  position, 
and  .seat  himself  before  taking  the  desperate  plunge. 

A  Canadian  boy  has  asked  you  to  go  tobogganinjj 
this  evening.  The  slide  is  a  cheerful  sight.  Torcl  es 
are  stuck  in  the  snow  on  eacdi  side  of  the  slide ;  while 
here  and  there  are  huge  lM)ntire.s,  ab(mt  which  gather 
gay  groups  of  young  men  and  women.  Most  of  them 
are  attired  in  the  blanket  suits  of  the  snowshoers. 

As  you  climb  upward,  and  see  the  tolK.ggans  dash- 
ing down  the  perilous  incline,  yon  almost  repent  of 
y„ur  promise  to  your  friend.  It  seems  as  if  every  one 
was  going  to  destruction.  Here  and  there  are  seen  the 
pale,  frightened  faces  of  visitors  who  are  taking  their 
first  slide ;  and  you  are  sure  that  they  will  never  l)e  seen 
or  heard  of  again.  But  in  a  few  moments  they  appear, 
climbing  up  to  the  top,  eager  to  try  it  again. 

This  encourages  you.  Your  friend  invit«s  you  to 
take  the  front  seat,  carefully  looks  to  see  that  there  is 
no  dragging  end  of  a  coat  or  sash,  gives  the  toboggan  a 
short,  strong  push,  leaps  on,  and  you  are  off. 

Now  you  are  falling  into  space!  Your  breath  is 
whisked  from  your  bodyl     Fragments  of  snow  and  ice 


r;. 
i! 
|i 

v 

|:i 

i: 
f 


i   I 


64 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


dash  themselves  against  you;  you  are  forced  to  hide 
your  face  behind  your  knees.  Then  you  look  up.  V/hat 
are  those  black  objects  flying  by  like  rockets  on  one 
side?  They  must  be  tobogganei-s  climbing  up  to  the 
top  of  tlie  slide.  Then  you  are  still  on  the  slide  after 
all.  No,  not  on  the  slide,  but  at  the  bottom;  for,  in 
another  second,  with  a  long,  slow,  creeking  glide,  the 
toboggan  comes  to  a  standstill.  You  catch  your  breath, 
rise,  and  look  about  you. 

Far  away  up  in  the  air  stand  tiny,  black  figures. 
They  are  the  people  ac  the  top  of  the  slide,  whom  you 
left  just  half  a  minute  ago.  Your  friend  still  holds  the 
two  imall  "steering  sticks."  By  sticiving  their  metal 
points  into  the  snow  from  time  to  time,  he  has  directed 
your  mad  flight.  He  turns,  and  asks  if  you  are  ready 
for  one  more  'ide. 

You  give  a  relieved  smile.  "  One  more  !  A"  dozen, 
if  you  please,"  you  say,  and,  seizing  the  toboggan  ro])e, 
you  hurry  up  the  hill,  only  too  eager,  now  that  the  first 
desperate  plunge  has  been  taken  safely,  to  enjoy  the 
delightful  sport  for  houi-s. 

"  Oh,  yes !  it  is  very  fair  fiui,"  says  your  friend,  in 
answer  to  your  enthusiastic  praises  of  the  sport.  "  Very 
fair  indeed!  But  you  should  try  a  real  hill  to  know 
what  tobogganing  is !  Here  there  are  no  hollows  in 
the  slide  to  give  the  toboggan  desperate  jounces  and 
leaps  into  the  air.  Those  we  find  on  the  C8te  St.  An- 
toine  Slide.  That  has  a  descent  of  two  thousand  feet, 
and  then  a  glide  across  the  lowlanils  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  of  several  hundred  yards. 

"  But  after  all,  the  very  finest  toboggan  slide  I  ever 


I 


Jsam^m 


reed  to  hide 
k  up.  V/hat 
cets  on  one 
g  up  to  the 
e  slide  after 
toni ;  foi",  in 
ig  glide,  the 
your  breath, 

lack   figures. 

B,  whom  you 

ill  holds  the 
their  metal 
has  directed 

ju  are  ready 

!  A"  dozen, 
boggan  ro])e, 
tliat  the  first 
to  enjoy  the 

lur  friend,  in 
port.  "  Very 
hill  to  know 
3  hollows  in 
jounces  and 
C8te  St.  An- 
lousand  feet, 
le  foot  of  the 

I  slide  I  ever 


I 


OUR   AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


65 


saw   was   at    MontmoreiU'y   Falls,  iicar  (^iK'l)ec.      You 
see,  the  spray,  dashing  upward   from    the    focjt   of  the 


i^Mm^Mm^m^ 


TOBOGGAN   SPILL. 


falls,  freezes  in  winter  into  a  perfect  cone  over  eighty 
feet  high.     Then  the  slide  is  not  only  down  the  cone. 


n 

5  s 


!f 


i !; 


■t 


06 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


but  across  the  St.  Lawrence  as  well.     Tliat  is  toboggan- 
iiig  indeed." 

The  newest  of  the  sports  of  Caiiiida  is  ice  boating. 
IJut  if  yon  wish  to  see  this  in  its  perfection,  yon  nnist 
leave  INIontreal  and  its  gay  Carnival  doings,  and  journey 
to  one  of  the  towns  of  Southern  or  Western  Ontario. 

The  frosts  in  this  region  are  ver}'  sharp  and  keen. 
The  ice  formed  on  lakes  Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario 
stretches  outwai'd  fioin  the  shore  for  some  miles.  On 
this  shore  icP;,  and  on  the  frozen  rivers,  ice  boating  is 
pursued. 

The  ice  boat  consists  of  a  triangular  framework  of 
wood,  lield  in  shape  by  several  crosspieces.  A  small 
box,  constituting  a  kind  of  cabin  to  this  novel  yacht,  is 
fastened  upon  the  framework.  A  mast,  for  the  suj)- 
port  of  a  few  sails,  is  set  well  forward.  Each  of  the 
three  points  of  the  triangular  ice  boat  is  set  upofi  a  steel 
runner,  something  like  the  blade  of  a  skate ;  and,  pio- 
pelled  by  the  winds  that  blow  against  its  canvas,  the 
ice  boat  skates  along  over  its  glassy  way.  There  is  a 
small  metal  rudder  for  steering,  which  acts  upon  the  ice 
something  like  a  biake. 

Next  to  a  balloon  or  a  railroad  train,  the  ice  boat  is 
the  swiftest^  means  of  traveling.  Indeed,  under  favor- 
able circumstances  it  can  hold  its  own  for  a  short  time 
with  a  railroad  train.  Its  average  rate  of  speed  is  from 
twenty  to  twenty -live  miles  an  hour. 

Whirled  along  at  this  speed,  you  feel  yourself  grow 
colder  and  colder.     You  are  curled  up  in  the  little  box, 
with  warm  fur  robes  piled  above  you ;  but  they  afford  ' 
slight  protection.     The  keen  wind  cuts  through  every 


-mm^* 


tobnggau- 

B  boating, 
you  must 
1(1  jf)uruey 
Ontario, 
[vucl  keeu. 
(I  Ontario 
niles.  Oil 
boating  is 

mework  of 
A  small 
i\  yaclit,  is 
)!•  the  su^)- 
iioh  of  the 
ipofi  a  steel 
3 ;  and,  pro- 
canvas,  the 
Tliere  is  a 
ipou  the  ice 

B  ice  boat  is 
nuler  favor- 
i  short  time 
peed  is  from 

)urself  grow 
le  little  box, 
b  they  afford 
irough  every 


I 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


67 


wrap  like  a  knife.  The  boat  speeds  on.  It  is  charm- 
ing to  watch  her  as  she  moves,  lirst  with  one  blade  in 
the  air,  and  then  with  two.  Rarely  are  all  three  blades 
moving  upon  the  ice  at  once. 

Under  any  but  very  skilful  pilotage,  the  boat  would 
come  to  grief.  An  incautious  movement  of  the  rudder, 
the  spreading  of  an  unnecessary  sail,  or  the  catching  of 
a  runner  in  a  rough  bit  of  ice,  would  be  apt  to  wreck 
the  unstable  little  craft.  It  needs  a  iiuick  eye  and  a 
steady  liand  to  pilot  her  safely  on  her  course.  But  it  is 
with  ice  boating  as  it  is  with  tobogganing,  the  very 
dangers  which  are  involved  in  it  are  its  chief  recom- 
mendation. 

Thes^  sports  are  pursued  by  young  and  old  all 
through  the  keen,  but  profoundly  enjoyed  winter.  As 
a  result  of  all  these  hardy  exercises,  the  Canadians  are 
a  robust,  happy,  healthful  people.  Care  does  not  seem 
to  make  the  fathers  of  families  grow  old  as  early  in  life 
as  in  our  own  coiuitry.  Boys  who  take  prizes  in  the 
snowshoeing  or  skating  contests  oft  jn  please  their  par- 
ents (luite  as  much  as  if  they  had  won  a  prize  for  good 
scholarship. 

The  girls  are  strong,  healthy  creatures,  quite  as  much 
interested  in  outdoor  sports  as  the  boys.  They  steer 
toboggans,  skate,  and  go  on  long  snowshoe  tramps  Avith 
a  right  good  will. 

Nervous  in-alids  from  our  country  and  Europe  find 
themselves  cured  on  parsing  an  active  winter  in  Canada. 
And,  in  short,  all  who  have  been  there  in  Carnival  time 
will  say  that  Canada  is  the  winter  paradise  of  the 
world. 


68 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THROUGH  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


The  largest  and  best  known  river  of  Canada  is  the 
St.  Lawrence,  wliich  bears  down  to  the  sea  volumes  of 
fresh  water  poured  into  it  by  live  lakes,  —  the  largest 
fresh  water  lakes  in  the  world.  They  are  Lakes  Supe- 
rior, Michigan,  Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario.  We  can  go 
on  a  steamer  from  Lake  Superior,  the  most  western  of 
the  lakes,  down  through  the  other  lakes  and  the  rivers 
wliich  drain  them,  to  the  sea.  Fifty  years  ago  such  a 
journey  would  have  been  impossible,  b(!cause  there  were 
thru  impassable  rapids  in  the  way.  But  the  raj^ids  are 
now  passed  by  canals,  and  a  water  way  of  two  thousand 
one  hundred  miles  has  been  thrown  open  to  commerce 
and  to  travel. 

We  will  begin  our  journey  by  starting  from  Duluth, 
a  flourishing  city  of  the  United  Stsvtes,  situated  at  the 
western  end  of  Lake  Superior.  It  is  a  beautiful  day  for 
a  sail.  Fleecy  clouds  pass  swiftly  overhead  and  draw 
dark  purple  shadows  in  the  blue  waters  of  the  lake. 
The  water  is  churned  by  the  paddle  wheel  of  the  steamer 
into  a  creamy,  yellow  froth,  tinged  here  and  there  with 
emerald  or  turquoise.  The  fresh  breeze  fans  our  cheeks, 
and,  as  we  come  more  into  the  open  stretch  of  the  lake, 
the  waves  mount  higher  and  higher,  until  they  are 
almost  equal  to  ocean  billows. 

The  motion  of  the  steamer  is  so  great  that  many  of 
the  passengers  have  retired  to  their  staterooms,  where 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


69 


nada  is  the 
volumes  of 
the  largest 
iakes  Supe- 
We  can  go 
;  western  of 
1  the  rivers 
ago  such  a 
!  there  were 
3  rapids  are 
,vo  thousand 
;o  commerce 

lom  Duluth, 
iiated  at  the 
itif ul  day  for 
id  and  draw 
of  the  lake, 
f  the  steamer 
d  there  with 
IS  our  cheeks, 
1  of  the  lake, 
itil  they  are 

that  many  of 
jrooms,  where 


they  will  remain  until  calmer  watei-s  are  reached.  The 
passengers  who  are  on  deck  at  abcnit  dinner  time,  notice 
flocks  of  gulls  following  the  steamer.  They  seem  to 
know  hy  instinct  when  meal-time  approaches,  and  follow 
the  -essel  closely  to  pick  up  the  crumbs  thrown  to  them 
by  the  steward. 

The  captain  produces  a  gun,  takes  careful  aim  at  one 
gull,  and  shoots.  The  bird,  with  a  sudden  movement, 
dexterously  avoids  the  shot,  and  follows  the  steamer  <.o 
pei-sistently  as  ever.  These  birds,  on  account  of  their 
sudden,  quick  movements,  are  difficult  to  shoot. 

The  ladies  on  board  beg  crumbs  of  the  steward,  and 
throw  them  to  the  great  white-winged  birds.  It  is  a 
pretty  sight  to  watch  a  gull  flying  down  in  a  swift 
curve,  catching  the  floating  bits  of  bread  while  in  rapid 
flight,  and  speeding  on  in  his  uninterrupted  course. 

We  are  coasting  along  the  northern  or  Canadian 
shore  of  Lake  Superior.  This  shore  is  bold  and  rocky, 
and  is  bordered  by  many  steep  cliff's  and  gloomy  preci- 
pices. The  valleys  of  the  small  streams  which  flow  into 
the  lake  have  high  and  narrow  walls,  and  indeed  form 
small  canyons,  or  gorges.  The  northern  shore  presents 
a  strong  contrast  to  the  southern  or  American  shore, 
which  is  low  and  sandy. 

Many  islands  skirt  the  edge  of  the  lake.  Some  are 
mere  crags  rising  from  the  water  like  the  battlemented 
walls  of  a  castle;  others  are  low,  with  white,  sandy 
beaches,  and  a  scanty  crop  of  evergreen  sVrubs.  On 
many  of  these  islands  thousands  of  birds  lay  their  eg'^gs, 
and,  at  any  time  in  the  summer,  enough  may  be  gath- 
ered to  make  a  delicious  meal. 


70 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


We  are  now  at  the  entrance  of  Thunder  Bay.  The 
Maniuis  of  Lome,  kite  governor  of  Canada,  gave  this 
bay  the  pretty  name  of  "  The  Silver  Gate  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior." It  was  80  called  because  silver  was  found  in 
great  quantities  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay.  The 
"  Silver  Gate  "  is  guarded  eternally  by  two  mighty  war- 
tlens,  —  Thunder  Cape  and  McKay's  Mountain. 

If  we  should  sail  into  Thunder  Bay,  we  should  find 
two  flourishing  towns  on  its  western  shore.  One  is  Fort 
William,  and  the  other  Prince  Arthur's  Landing. 

Fort  William  is  the  older  of  the  two.  It  was  once 
the  busy  headquartei's  of  a  large  company  of  fur  traders, 
known  as  the  Northwest  Company.  Once  a  year  the 
chief  men  of  the  company  would  proceed  from  Mcmtreal 
and  Quebec  to  the  remote  little  post  of  Foit  William 
to  meet  their  officei-s  who  had  been  stationed  in  the 

West. 

The  progress  of  the  leaders  of  the  company  was  al- 
most like  a  triumphal  march.  They  brought  with  them 
canoes  laden  with  rich  foods  and  choice  wines.  French 
cooks  and  bakers  accompanied  them;  and  Canadian 
oarsmen,  as  obedient  as  galley  slaves,  rowed  their 
canoes.  Imagine  their  slow,  stately  progress  across  wild 
Lake  Superior  and  through  the  noble  gateway  of  Thun- 
der Bay,  with  Thunder  Cape  and  McKay's  Mountain 
waving  their  giant  pines  in  salute. 

At  Fort  William  the  partners  of  the  company  who 
came  from  the  trading  posts  in  the  far  West  also  assem- 
bled.. Tiies  ^-ere  men  who  had  spent  their  lives  in  the 
Ivack  woods, Ii.r'.  who,  for  their  faithful  services,  had 
been  made  partners  i"  the  company.     How  proud  they 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


71 


lay.  The 
gave  thiH 
ake  Supe- 

found  in 
)ay.  The 
ghty  war- 
1. 

lould  find 
lie  is  Fort 
ng. 

was  once 
Lir  traders, 
,  year  the 
1  Montreal 
t  William 
ed  in  the 

ny  was  al- 
with  them 
1.     French 

Canadian 
wed  their 
icross  wild 
f  of  Thun- 

Mountain 

ipany  who 
also  assem- 
ives  in  the 
fvices,  had 
:)roud  they 


were  to  receive  a  .summons  to  the  council  chainkT  and 
the  sumptuous  board  at  Fort  William!  Many  of  them 
were  Scotchmen,  who  d(!cked  themselves  and  the  ad- 
miriin'-  rctaineis  who  accompanied  them,  as  hiavcly  as 
if  tliey  were  going  to  a  gathering  of  the  clans  in  the 
Scotch   Highlands. 

Tlie  meeting  took  place  in  an  enormou'.  chamber, 
whose  rough  walls  were  hung  with  Indian  tomahawks 
and  clubs,  and  with  the  skins  of  fur-l)eariiig  animals. 

First  was  lield  the  great  council,  whicih  was  conducted 
with  all  the  pomp  and  seriousness  of  a  true  parliament. 
The  accounts  of  the  year  just  closed  were  made  up  ;  the 
officers  from  the  remote  posts  made  their  reports ;  and 
new  plans  for  the  coming  year  were  discussed. 

Then  came  the  banquet,  the  great  occasion  of  the  year. 
The  tables  groaned  under  the  good  (^heer.  Here  were 
venison  from  the  forest,  and  fish  from  the  lake,  with  the 
unusual  luxuries  of  buffaloes'  tongues  and  beavers'  tails. 
Then  it  was  that  the  grand  seigniors  from  Montreal 
unl)ent,  and  joked  and  laughed  with  a  right  good  will. 
Such  thrilling  stories  of  adventure  as  were  told  around 
that  festive  board !  The  rousing  songs  and  resounding 
cheers  that  arose  seemed  almost  to  crack  the  rafters. 

What  a  picture  the  flickering  fire  light  shone  upon,  as  it 
lighted  the  grizzly,  sunburnt  countenances  of  the  rough 
hunters,  and  the  pale,  refined  faces  of  the  tradei's  from 
Montreal !  The  muscular,  brown  hands  of  the  forests 
raised  the  bumpers  together  with  delicate,  white  hands 
from  the  city.  All  was  brightness,  warmth,  and  hearty 
good  cheer,  as  those  ohl  fellows  told  their  wonderful 
stories  and  roared  over  their  jokes  like  boys. 


wm 


72 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


But  the  palmy  days  of  tlui  old  fur  traders  are  goue 
from  the  town  of  Fort  Williuiu.  As  for  tlio  fort  itself, 
it  is  uow  err  bliug  *.'  k-c  y,  while  weeds  flourish  iu  the 
3iU'Pt  rad  d«  ■   '  ie'J    ■   i.'-i;  id. 

t  opper  is  f  ■!.*(  v\  reat  quau titles  on  an  island  in 
the  easteii  par  ;  U.  1  .  Sui)erior.  Tlie  mines  are  now 
worked  by  an  English  cot;.  My,  but  centuries  ago  they 
were  mined  by  an  ancient  i)eople  of  whom  very  little  is 
known.  They  built  large,  eaithen  mounds,  shaped  like 
8eri)ents,  beasts,  and  men ;  and  on  this  account  are 
known  as  the  Mound  Huildei's.  Their  shaft,  in  which 
a  large  mass  of  c()p[)er  hangs  suspended,  and  their  rude 
mining  tools,  can  still  be  seen  on  the  island.  Rich  mines 
of  copper  and  iron  ara  found  in  the  United  States  on  the 
shore  of  Jjake  Superior. 

The  bed  of  the  lake  is  inlaid  with  many  precious 
stones,  which  the  waves  are  continually  bringing  to  the 
shore.  Imagine  yourself  walking  along  one  of  Lake 
Superior's  white  beaches  and  seeing  a  retreating  wave 
leave  an  opal  at  your  feet,  —  a  lovely^  clear  stone,  with 
red,  blue,  green,  and  violet  lights  shooting  through  it, 

A  party  in  a  canoe  will  often  go  hunting  for  amethysts, 
just  as  a  New  England  i)arty  might  start  off  on  a  search 
for  checkorberries.  Green  jasper,  many-colored  car- 
nelian,  and  .agate  can  be  found.  The  stones  are  small, 
but  sometimes  a  large  one  rewards  patient  search. 

The  water  of  Lake  Supeiior  is  as  clear  as  crystal.  On 
calm  days,  an  anchor  painted  white  can  be  seen  at  a 
depth  of  ninety  fathoms.  The  water  is  also  intensely 
cold.  If  a  vessel  were  wrecked  very  far  from  land,  the 
stoutest  swimmer  could  hardly  save  himself.     The  cold 


o 

V 

t 
n 

c 


■■"*Sji 


OUR  AMERIC'N   NtlGHBORS. 


78 


are  gone 
Dit  itsulf, 
ish  ill  tlio 

island  in 
;  are  now 

ago  they 
y  little  is 
aped  like 
iount   are 

in  which 
heir  rude 
ich  mines 
tes  on  the 

precious 
ng  to  the 
I  of  Lake 
ing  wave 
one,  with 
ough  it. 
-raethysts, 
1  a  search 
ored  car- 
ire  small, 
•ch. 

ystal.   On 

seen  at  a 

intensely 

land,  the 

The  cold 


of  the     'ater   ,.ould,  in  time,  Ixjnumb  him  so   that  he 
wouh'.  Deconie  unable  to  take  a  single  stroke. 

This  hke  coines  in  'ly  1^  its  name,  for  it  is  sui)erior 
to  all  the  other  Great  Lakes  in  its  Hize,  in  tlie  clearness 
and  coldness  of  its  water,  in  the  healthfulness  of  its 
climate,  and  in  its  mineral  wealth. 

Violent  storms  have  often  occurred  on  Lake  Superior, 
in  which  many  lives  have  been  lost.  The  waves  of  the 
lake,  under  a  sweeping  wind,  can  be  raised  into  tremen- 
dous billows;  and  there  are  certain  walls  of  cliffs  on  the 
north  shore,  which  a  canoe  never  ventures  past  in  uncer- 
tain weather. 

Lake  Superior  flows  into  Lake  Huron  by  the  St. 
Mary's  River,  at  the  head  of  which  are  the  St.  Mary's 
Rap"ds.  The  rapids  can  be  descended  in  a  canoe,  but 
steamers  and  other  vessels  pass  through  the  canal. 
There  is  no  steep  fall  in  any  part  of  the  ra^jids,  but 
instead,  a  gradual  flow  of  the  river  over  a  descent  of 
eighteen  fet^t  in  three-quartei-s  of  a  mile. 

Many  small  islands  lie  in  the  midst  of  the  stream, 
making  numerous  channels  among  the  rapids.  De- 
scending the  rapids  in  a  canoe  is  called  "dancing  among 
the  waters."  Many  toilrists,  among  them  ladies,  enjoy 
this  somewhat  dangerous  pastime  exceedingly. 

Indians  in  canoes  may  be  seen  fishing  at  all  hours. 
Fine  wbitefish  are  caught  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids. 
Two  Indians  take  their  canoe  into  the  most  turbulent 
part  of  the  channel  below  the  rapids.  One  site  in  the 
stern,  and,  with  liis  single  oar,  holds  the  canoe  in  place 
for  hours,  as  steadily  as  if  it  were  anchored. 

The  other  is  the  fisherman.     lie  stands  in  the  bow 


^**«te 


m^A- . 


74 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS    PtOPLE. 


with  a  large  scoop  net  over  three  feet  in  diameter.  As 
a  whitetish  attempts  to  swim  up  the  rapids,  ho  throws 
tlie  net  over  liis  nose,  and,  with  a  dexterous  turn  of 
the  wrist,  the  net  is  closed  and  the  prize  hauled  on 
boartl.     This  kind  of  lishing  is  very  exciting  ana  pays 

well.  ,      1     c  i.1 

Now  we  enter  Lake  Huron.  This  is  the  third  of  the 
(ireat  Lakes  in  size,— Lake  Michigan,  which  helongs 
wholly  to  the  United  States,  being  the  next  largest  to 

Superior. 

The  southwestern  shores  of  Lake  Huron  are  ncli  m 
mines  of  salt  and  brine.  Tliey  were  discovered  by  a 
man  who  was  boring  for  oil.  He  had  pierced  to  the 
depth  of  one  thousand  feet,  when  he  came  to  an  undei-- 
ground  pool  of  brine,  which  is  salt  dissolved  in  water. 

Examining  further,  he  discovered  many  more  pools 
of  brine,  separated  by  beds  of  salt  crystals.  The  pools 
of  brine  had  once  been  beds  of  crystals;  but  rain  water 
had  penetrated  to  the  layei-s  of  salt  crystals,  had  melted 
them,  and  had  thus  formed  brine. 

There  are  manv  salt  factories  in  this  region,  where 
tlie  salt  is  mined,  partially  purified,  packed,  and  shipped 
to  distant  places.  The  tall,  tapering  chimneys,  which 
cover  the  openings  into  the  mines,  are  common  sights 
on  the  shores  of  Lake  Huron. 

Many  of  the  Canadian  villages  and  towns  have  a  Heet 
of  fishing  boats,  or  wherries,  which  sail,  in  the  early 
dawn,  to  the  fishing  grounds,  twenty  miles  away.  The 
crew  of  the  wherry  consist^s  of  four  men,  often  grim 
and  silent  Scotchmen. 

The    ordinary  catcdi    is   from   one    thousand    to  two 


«Ml«»d!tetM^ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


75 


ictcr.  Aa 
lio  throws 
IH  Uiiii  of 
imvilod  on 
ana  pays 

inl  of  tlu! 
■h  kilongs 
largest  to 

iro  rich  in 
o.red  hy  a 
ced  to  tho 
an  undei'- 
iii  water, 
nnre  pools 
The  pools 
rain  water 
had  melted 

rion,  where 
ind  shipped 
loys,  which 
mon  sights 

have  a  fleet 

1  the  early 

iway.     Tlie 

often  grim 

find    to  two 


thousand  pounds,  mfistly  ohtained  by  net.  Tho  fish 
usually  caught  are  the  salmon  trout,  often  as  large 
and  heavy  as  a  child  of  three  years;  tho  whitetish, 
which  is  delicious  eating ;  and  the  lake  herring,  some- 
what like  the  salt  water  herring.  The  lish  are  cleaned 
on  board,  as  the  wherry  is  returning  to  the  shore,  which 
it  reaches  about  noon.  The  cargo  is  then  bought  by  a 
firm  of  fish  dealers,  who  either  pickle  the  lish  or  send 
them,  [)acked  in  ice,  to  the  markets  in  Canada  and  the 
United  States. 

The  waters  of  Lake  Huron  vary  in  color.  Near  the 
shore  they  are  of  a  brownish  yellow ;  then  the  yellow 
shades  into  green ;  next  is  a  patch  of  pure  green ;  and  in 
the  centre,  the  lake  is  a  bright  blue.  Under  the  sunset, 
bands  of  purple,  violet,  and  all  the  colors  of  the  rain- 
bow blend  with  the  blue  of  the  lake. 

The  three  links  that  bind  Lake  Huron  to  Lake  Erie 
are  the  St.  Clair  River,  Lake  St.  Clair,  and  the  Detroit 
River.  All  these  are  on  the  same  level,  and  navigation 
can  be  easily  carried  on  through  them.  No  canals  are 
necessary.  The  only  obstacle  in  the  past  was  the  shal- 
lowness of  Lake  St.  Clair.  But  lately  a  deep  channel 
has  been  dredged  through  the  middle  of  the  lake  at 
considerable  cost.  The  largest  steamers  can  now  pass 
through  the  channel,  which  is  bordered  on  each  side  by 
broad  dikes,  on  whose  tops  lighthouses  and  cottages 
may  be  seen. 

The  St.  Clair  River  in  past  ages  brought  down  so 
much  fine  mud  that  a  delta  of  forty  acres  was  formed  at 
its  mouth.  The  delta  contains  many  small  lakes  and 
grassy  islands,  and  is  known  as  the  St.  Clair  Flats. 


II 


1 1 


76 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


llusheH  and  sedfjoH  prow  from  tl.e  water,  and  in  somo 
places  choko  up  the  small  chaiinels  so  that  it  is  dilVicult 
to  push  a  lM)at  through  the  dense  growth,  danie  is 
very  plentiful  on  the  St.  Clair  Flats.  Some  acres  have 
Ixjen  hired  by  sportsmen,  who  liave  erected  eluhhouses, 
and  who  come  to  the  flats  about  the  twelfth  of  August 
for  a  few  days'  shooting. 

There  are  innumerahle  stories  that  might  he  told  of 
the  Detroit  River,  —  Indian  stories,  and  stories  of  the 
Jesuits,  the  devoted  men  who  braved  the  dangers  of  the 
sea  and  the  forest,  hoping  to  teach  the  Indians  Chris- 
tianity. One  story  we  will  listen  to,  which  has  for  a 
hero  an  old  French  priest,  TcMc  (ialinde.  He  and  his 
followers  had  started  to  explore  the  Detroit  lliver  and 
to  establish  there  a  mission  to  the  Indians. 

The  journey  was  one  chapter  of  accidents.  It  seemed 
to  the  priests  as  if  Satan  had  control  of  the  weatlier,  the 
winds,  and  the  waves,  and  was  using  all  his  power  to 
prevent  them  from  reaching  their  journey's  end. 

They  had  found  Lake  Erie  in  its  stormiest  mood. 
Once  a  high  surf  arose  and  carried  off  their  canoe; 
again,  as  they  were  thoroughly  wearied  out  by  a  tramp 
of  sixty  miles  and  were  sleeping  on  its  shores,  a  violent 
wind  sprang  up  and  the  rising  waters  of  the  lake  swept 
away  their  baggage,  provisions,  and,  woret  loss  of  all, 
the  altar  service,  which  was  to  them  the  most  impor- 
tant sign  of  the  faith  for  which  they  were  working. 
This  was  a  great  blow. 

Proceeding  to  the  Detroit  River,  they  found  on  its 
shore  a  camp  ground,  sacred  to  tlu;  Indian  god  who 
ruled  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie.      The  god,  a  great  stone 


fsmaS^i^t^. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


77 


I  ill  Homo 
IS  (lilVu'ult 
(ianic  Ih 
ici'i's  liivve 
liihhoiiHes, 
i)f  August 

Ik)  told  of 
•ies  of  the 
revs  of  tlie 
HUH  ('hris- 
hoH  for  a 
[e  and  his 
River  and 

It  seemed 
eatlier,  the 

I  power  to 
nd. 

iest  mood, 
eir  canoe ; 
l)y  a  tramp 
s,  a  violent 
lake  swept 
loss  of  all, 
iiost  impor- 
e  working. 

mnd  on  its 

II  god  who 
great  stone 


idol  with  rudely  painted  features,  stor  I  in  the  centre 
of  the  (^aiMji  ground,  surroundiid  l)y  a  circle  of  lodges. 
Whencv(!r  the  Indians  ventured  in  their  canoes  upoit 
atormy  liidii;  Krie,  they  were  ac(!Ustonie(l  to  offer  up 
sacriliiics  of  furs  and  game  to  this  god,  j»raying  him  to 
guide  thcMi  safely  on  tlicir  way. 

Tiie  Indians  advised  (he  missionaries  to  ih)  this  also. 
I'tiro  (Jalinde  was  Idled  with  indignation  hy  this  advice. 
Seizing  an  axe,  he  attacked  tlie  idol,  and,  in  sight  of  the 
awe-struck  Indians,  lu'wed  it  into  many  pieces.  The 
largest  fragment  he  placed  upon  a  canoe,  rowed  into  the 
middle  of  Detroit  River,  and  hurled  it  o'  erhoard.  For 
all  we  know,  it  is  resting  in  the  depths  of  the  river  at 
the  [H-esent  day. 

Lake  Erie  is  the  shallowest  of  the  Great  Lakes,  and, 
on  this  account,  is  the  most  stormy.  A  strong  wind 
can,  at  any  time,  whip  up  large  waves  on  thi!  lake ;  and 
if  it  comes  from  the  southwest,  the  waves  hccome  foamy 
hillows,  racing  in  upon  the  beach  as  great  breakers. 
Sometimes  peninsulas,  stretching  out  into  the  lake,  are 
cut  through  by  the  force  of  the  waves  and  carried  away. 

Great  danger  always  calls  forth  heroes,  and  the  heroes 
of  Lake  Erie  are  legion.  Every  one  has  heard  of  John 
Maynard,  the  pilot  who  steered  the  burning  steamer 
safe  to  shore,  while  he  himself  was  slowly  burning  to 
death  at  his  post.  As  the  vessel  Uniched  the  land,  and 
a  glad  cry  of  thankfulness  arose  from  the  passengei-s 
whose  lives  he  had  saved,  Maynard's  blackened  corpse 
fell  into  the  quiet  bosom  "f  the  lake. 

The  heroine  of  Lake  i  ie  is  a  Mi-s.  Becker.  She 
lived  with   her  husband  and   little  children  on  a  low 


1 


I  '^I 


78 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE, 


saiuly  island,  whose  only  otlior  inhabitant  was  the  litrht- 
house  keeper.  One  night  there  came  on  a  terrible 
storm,  which  shook  the  small  shanty  and  awoke  INIis. 
Becker  from  sound  sleep.  Her  liusband  was  away 
selling  furs  on  the  mainland,  and  there  was  no  one 
to  comfort  her  frightened  little  ones  but  lierself. 

On  looking  out  at  daybreak,  she  found  fragments  of 
the  boat  of  a  vessel  at  her  door.  Hastening  instantly 
to  the  shore,  she  peered  into  the  gray  gloom.  At  length 
she  distinguished  the  mtists  of  a  schooner,  and,  clinging 
to  them,  dark  objects  that  must  be  the  crew.  Back  to 
her  cottage  she  rushen  for  matches  and  a  teakettle, 
and  then  hurried  barefooted  through  the  pitiless  winter 
storm  for  two  miles  along  the  shore.  Soon  a  lire  of 
driftwood  was  blazing  high.  Tliis  was  a  beacon  to  the 
shipwrecked  sailors;  and,  to  cheer  them  with  the  sight 
of  the  presence  of  some  human  being,  Mrs.  Becker  spent 
all  day  upon  the  shore,  pacing  up  and  down  before  the 
fire.  She  had  hoped  that  the  sailors  might  attempt  to 
swim  to  land ;  but  the  gray  winter  twilight  was  coming 
on,  and  no  one  had  ventured. 

The  wind  arose.  Evidently  another  dreadful  night 
was  at  hand.     The  case  was  desperate. 

Mrs.  Becker  waded  into  the  icy  water  until  it  was  up 
to  her  arms ;  then,  as  near  to  the  drowning  men  as  she 
could  go,  she  flung  her  arms  above  her  head,  and  with 
wild,  desperate  gestures  strove  to  make  them  iinderstand 
that  there  was  no  boat  to  send  out  and  that  their  only 
hope  was  to  swim  to  shore. 

The  captain  decided  to  make  the  dangerous  attempt. 
If  he  reached  land  in  safety,  the  crew  would  follow. 


i 


I 


aasg- 


'•%, 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


79 


IS  the  litrht- 
I  a  terrible 
iwoke  Mrs. 

was  away 
i^as  no  one 
^elf. 

agnients  of 
ig  instantly 

At  length 
id,  clinging 
\  Back  to 
X  teakettle, 
iless  winter 
111  a  lire  of 
jacon  to  the 
h  the  sight 
ecker  spent 

before  the 
,  attempt  to 
was  coming 

adful  night 

il  it  was  up 
men  as  she 
id,  and  with 
understand 
t  their  only 

)us  attempt. 
Kild  follow. 


He  was  a  strong,  expert  swimmer ;  but  just  as  he  rose 
on  his  feet  close  to  the  shoi-e,  the  treacherous  undertow 
flung  him  down  and  was  hur'ying  him  back  to  death. 
But  no  I  Mrs.  liecker  rushed  into  the  surf,  seized  him, 
and  dragged  him  upon  the  shore. 

One  of  the  crew  followed.  The  captain  plunged  into 
the  surf  to  aid  his  failing  strength  ;  and  once  more  the 
undertow  clutched  them  both,  and  would  have  drowned 
them  if  Mrs.  liecker  had  not  again  rushed  to  the  rescue. 
At  last  all  the  men  from  the  wreck  were  safe  on  shore. 
They  warmed  their  half-frozen  bodies  at  the  driftwood 
fire,  and  were  filled  with  new  vigor  by  draug'its  from 
the  teakettle. 

The  next  day  a  passing  vessel  took  them  away.  But 
they  did  not  forget  Mrs.  Becker.  Everywhere,  through- 
out both  Cr.uada  and  the  United  States,  the  story  of  her 
brave  action  is  still  told. 

The  Canadian  (Government  gave  her  a  farm  of  one 
hundr''d  acres  looking  out  upon  the  scene  of  the  rescue. 
The  merchants  and  shii)Owners  of  Buffalo  contributed 
one  thousand  dollars  towards  stocking  her  farm.  The 
Life-Saving  Association  of  New  York  sent  her  a  gold 
medal.  The  simple-minded  woman  was  overcome  by  all 
these  blessings,  and  constantly  declared  thai  "  she  did 
no  more  'n  she  'd  ought  to,  no  more  'n  she  'd  do  again." 
Leaving  Lake  Erie,  Ave  pass  into  the  Niagara  River, 
and  approach  the  most  celebrated  spot  in  our  whole 
trip  through  the  Great  Lakes,  — Niagara  Falls,  renowned 
throughout  the  world. 

Long  ago,  some  Indian  hunters,  traveling  through 
the  pathless  fcrests,  heard  a  muffled,  swelling  murmur. 


"'**. 


80 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


i   ...: 


Tinning  toward  it,  they  came  upon  a  sight  of  unutter- 
able grandeur.  The  falls  then  were  in  the  midst  of 
forests,  and  pines  and  cedai-s  balaiu-jd  their  slender 
stems  on  the  very  verge  of  the  gulf.  With  the  sight 
nearly  blinding  them,  and  the  sound  deafening  them, 
what  wonder  that  to  the  Indians  Niagara  seemed  to  be 
a  powerful  god  whose  favor  must  be  humbly  sought. 

Every  year  they  offered  a  saerifice  to  the  spirit  of  the 
falls.  A  beautiful  young  girl  was  bound  in  a  canoe  and 
set  adrift  above  the  cataract.  Music  was  played  to 
drown  her  cries,  while  she  passed  over  the  edge  of  the 
falls  to  her  frightful  death  below.  Though  such  hor- 
rible customs  are  past  now,  yet  it  is  said  that  Niagara 
still  claims  its  annual  sacrifice,  and  that  some  one  is 
dashed  over  the  falls  each  year. 

The  French  explorei-s  and  priests  gazed  with  awe  and 
admiration  on  this  wonder  of  the  New  World."  They 
greatly  e.aggcrated  its  height,  stating  in  their  records 
that  it  was  six  hundred  or  seven  hundred  feet  high. 
In  reali^"  it  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 

Near  the  middle  of  the  upper  edge  of  the  fulls  is  a 
wooded  island.  This  is  Goat  Island,  which  separates 
the  American  from  the  Canadian  side,  — the  Horseshoe 
Fall  from  the  American  Fall. 

Perhaps  the  best  idea  of  Niagara  can  be  gained  by 
the  view  from  Table  Island,  a  small  ledge  of  rock  near 
the  edge  of  the  Hoi-seshoe  Fall.  Here  the  rush  of  the 
rapids  above  the  falls,  the  falls  themselves,  and  the 
abyss  below,  into  which  the  water  flings  itself,  can  all 

be  seeu. 

Half  a  .Ule  above  the  cataract,  the  river  bed  slopes 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


81 


'  unutter- 
midst  of 
1-   slender 
the  sight 
ing  thein, 
med  to  be 
ought, 
irit  of  the 
canoe  and 
phiyed  to 
Ige  of  tlie 
such  hor- 
it  Niagara 
line  one  is 

ih  awe  and 

fid."    They 

sir  records 

feet  high. 

3  falls  is  a 

1  separates 

Horseshoe 

gained  by 
:  rock  near 
rush  of  the 
H,  and  the 
self,  can  all 

•  bed  slopes 


steeply,  and  here  the  (Iraud  lla^vids  begin  tiieir  wild 
course.  The  river  is  a  seething  mass  of  tossing,  foam- 
ing water.  Here  is  the  rusliiiig  of  water  over  sunken 
rocks  ;  there  the  dangerous  eddy  of  a  whirlpool.  (Jreat 
curves  of  clear  green  water  and  crescents  of  glittering 
white  foam  all  rush  wildly  on  in  apparent  confusion, 
but  in  real  order  and  succession,  down  to  the  terrible 
verge  over  which  they  madly  plunge. 

The  Horseshoe  is  the  larger  fall.  It  is  twice  as 
wide  as  the  American  Fall,  and  a  nuu;li  larger  volume 
of  water  passes  over  it.  The  volume  of  water  passing 
over  the  Horseshoe  Fall  is  so  immense  that  it  is  not 
immediately  broken  into  spray  wliile  descending,  but 
fv)r  some  distance  down  the  fall  retains  its  perfect 
smootluiess. 

In  great  knots  anrl  masses  of  crystalline  green,  it 
roai-s  into  the  gulf  beneath,  where  it  lies  smothered  by 
it«  own  weight,  with  only  a  quivering  motion  upon  the 
surface  to  tell  of  the  mighty  currents  wrestling  beneath. 
The  cauldron  at  the  foot  of  tlie  falls  is  a  mass  of  foam, 
with  jets  of  water  and  spurts  of  spray  steaming  upward 
from  the  very  centre  of  the  conflicting  undercurrents. 

The  American  Fall  is  not  so  grand  and  majestic  as  its 
neighbor,  but  it  possesses  a  beauty  or  its  own.  The  fall- 
ing water  is  dashed  at  once  into  spray,  wliich  bathes  the 
whole  cataract.  A  liglit  veil  of  mist  hangs  continu- 
ally about  it,  and,  in  the  sunshine,  rainbow  colore  are 
reflected  from  thousands  of  bright,  falling  waterdrops. 

A  fine  view  of  Niagara  could  once  be  had  from  the 
Suspension  Bridge,  which  is  a  slender  arch  of  iron, 
spanning  the  river  below  the  falls.     But  recently  this 


I  •  • 


!    ■  ! 


Hi. 


82 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


view  has  been  cut  off  by  a  railroad  bridge  wliich  has 
been  built  across  the  river  above  the  Suspension  Bridge. 

The  Indian  name  of  Niagara,  which  means  "thunder 
of  waters,"  Wius  a  hai)py  choice.  The  noise  of  the  falling 
water  is  so  full,  so  complete,  that  one  is  hai'dly  aware  of 
its  volume,  until  ha  sees  the'moving  lips  of  his  compan- 
ions and  realizes  that  he  can  hear  no  sound  save  the  deep 
thunder  of  tiie  cataract.  In  fact,  both  the  sense  of  sight 
find  the  sense  of  hearing  ai'c  overpowered.  They  refuse 
to  act  at  the  same  time.  When  one  sees,  he  cannot 
hear.  When  he  hears,  he  cannot  see.  It  is  a  rest  and 
a  relief  at  last  to  turn  away  from  the  tremendous  roar 
of  Niagara. 

In  winter  Niagara  is  a  fairy  scene.  Every  fence, 
tree,  shrub,  and  blade  of  grass  upon  which  its  spray 
falls,  is  covered  with  a  thin  crust  which  sjjarkles  and 
glistens  in  the  sunshine  like  mother-of-[)earl. "  From 
the  tips  of  the  branches  of  the  evergreen  trees  hang  ice 
balls,  which  the  children  call  ice  apples.  The  brow  of 
every  cliff  is  crowned  with  snowy  wreaths,  and  many- 
tinted  icicles  hang  from  its  face. 

A  thin,  silvery  sheet  of  water  pours  over  the  Ameri- 
can Fall,  but  half  way  down  it  is  frjzjn  into  a  thick 
mist.  The  wave  of  the  Horsesi.<)t  Fall,  contrasted 
with  its  snow-white  surroundings,  looks  greener  than 
ever,  as  it  crashes  its  way  through  the  frost  and  ice 
that  would  strive  to  bind  it.  The  most  beautiful  rain- 
bows span  the  fall  from  top  to  bottom.  They  never 
remain  the  same,  but  break  and  again  foim  their  grace- 
ful curves. 

With  the  roar  of  Niagara  dying  in  our  ears,  we  de- 


'tssm 


'^- 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


88 


i'hicli  has 
111  Bridge. 
"  tluuKler 
lie  falling 
'  aware  of 
s  compan- 
e  the  deep 
^e  of  sight 
hey  refuse 
he  cannot 
a  rest  and 
idous  roar 

ery  fence, 
I  its  spray 
irkles  and 
,il.  ■  From 
3s  hang  ice 
lie  brow  of 
and  many- 

tlie  Ameri- 
ito  a  thick 
contrasted 
•eener  than 
)st  and  ice 
.utiful  raiu- 
rhey  never 
their  grace- 
ears,  we  de- 


scend the  Niagara  River  and  enter  Ontario,  the  small- 
est of  the  Great  Lakes. 

Its  shores  are  low  and  fertile,  and  many  farms  slope 
gently  downward  to  its  quiet  waters.  The  scenes  on 
either  hand  are  very  peaceful  and  restful,  as  we  plough 
our  way  across  the  lake  to  Kingston,  a  great  graiii- 
sliipping  centre  at  the  entrance  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  Mere  our  trip  througli  the  Great  Lakes  ceases, 
and  our  river  joiu*ne3'  begins. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


DOWN  THE   ST.   L,VWRKNCK. 


Are  you  thoroughly  rested  after  your  journey  through 
the  Lakes  ?  Do  you  Ava.it  another  long  sail?  This  time 
we  will  follow  the  course  of  tho  river  St.  Lawrence 
from  Lake  Ontario  to  the  sea,  perlitips  stopping  here 
and  there  for  a  glance  up  one  or  two  ci  its  larger  tril> 
utaries. 

Taking  the  beautiful  white  steamer  at  Kingston,  we 
steam  away  eastwardly  over  as  blue  Avaters  and  under  as 
fair  a  sky  as  heart  could  desire.  Presently  we  enter 
the  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands.  That  is  the  name 
{riven  to  the  river  for  the  first  forty  miles  of  its  course 
after  leaving  Lake  Ontario. 

It  is  so  called  because  its  surface  is  studded  every- 
where with  islands, — some  a  mere  bit  of  rock  or  tuft 
of  grass,   others   much  larger.     They  are   called   the 


U'< 


84 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


Thousand  Islands ;  but  in  reality  there  are  sixteen 
hundred  of  them. 

'J  hey  aie  very  beautiful  in  the  clear  sunshine.  Some 
of  the  islands  have  high,  rocky  faces,  covered  with  the 
pale  green  and  gray  of  clinging  lichens,  and  crowned 
with  plumy  masses  of  evergreens.  Others  are  lower, 
with  small,  white,  sandy  beaches,  and  with  maples  and 
birches  trailing  their  lowest  branches  in  the  calm  watere, 
upon  which  float  great  white  and  gold  pond  lilies.  The 
steamer  follows  its  winding  course,  avoiding  those  isl- 
ands from  which  beils  of  rushes  and  sedges  spread  out 
toward  the  middle  of  the  stream.  Everj-  turn  in  the 
coui'se  reveals  some  charming  vista. 

It  occui-s  to  you  that  these  narrow  channels,  winding 
among  myriads  of  islands,  all  so  much  alike,  would  be 
a  capital  place  for  a  game  of  hide-and-seek.  With  a 
boat,  a  man  who  knew  this  region  could  hide  himself 
from  any  one.  So  thought  Bill  Johnson,  who,  with 
other  outlaws,  had  burned  the  ship  "  Sir  Robert  Peel." 
He  was  rowed  in  a  canoe  from  island  to  island  by  his 
daughter  Kate,  a  brave  girl  who  kept  her  father  hidden 
and  supplied  with  food  for  some  time. 

Leaving  the  Thousand  Islands,  the  St.  Lawrence 
broadens  and  forms  Lake  St.  Francis,  the  first  of  a  series 
of  lakes  named  for  the  old  French  saints  by  the  early 
explorers.  The  shores  of  Lake  St.  Francis  are  covered 
with  woods  and  fiirms.  The  very  quiet  and  peaceful 
view  is  bo\uided  by  a  distant  range  of  blue  mountains, 
which  are  the  Adirondacks  of  New  York. 

The  St.  Lawrence  now  contracts  into  two  distinct 
series  of  ra})ids,  —  the  Cedar  Rapids  and  the  Cascade. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


85 


sixteen 

i.     Some 
with  the 

crowned 
re  k)wev, 
iples  and 
ni  watei-s, 
ies.    The 

those  isl- 
ipread  out 
.rn  in  the 

J,  winding 
,  would  be 
.  With  a 
le  himself 
who,  with 
bert  Peel." 
and  by  his 
her  hidden 

Lawrence 
t  of  a  series 
ly  the  early 
are  covered 
id  peaceful 
mountains, 

wo  distinct 
he  Cascade. 


After  the  excdtement  of  shooting  these  rapids  is  over, 
we  find  oiu'selves  on  another  expansion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, called  Lake  St.  LouLs.  The  island  of  INIoutreal 
lies  to  tlic  northeast  and  the  Ottawa  Riv(!r  to  tlie  west. 

This  river  is  the  largest  tril)utary  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
It  tlows  from  the  great  forest  regions  in  Northern  Ontario 
and  beai-s  downward  to  the  St.  Lawrence  the  logs, 
cribs,  and  large  rafts  which  are  prepared  by  the  lum- 
bermen. Its  yellowish  brown  current  hardly  seems  to 
mingle  with  the  blue  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Just  at  this  point  a  cross  has  been  erected  upon  a 
high  mound  on  the  eastern  shore.  It  has  been  placed 
there  for  mariners  to  look  to  in  times  of  peril,  and 
reminds  one  that,  before  mooring  in  safety  in  tlie  harbor 
of  Montreal,  the  Lachine  Rapids  are  to  bo  passed. 

As  we  pass  a  bend  in  the  river,  a  mass  of  breakers 
come  in  sight,  liathing  with  flying  spray  two  small 
islands  in  their  midst.  The  rush  of  the  river  beai-s  us 
onward,  and  now  we  are  in  the  breakers,  turning  in  one 
direction,  reeling  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  being 
generally  tossed  and  rocked  about.  The  Indian  pilot, 
firm  as  a  rock,  stands  at  the  wheel  with  his  eyes  fixed 
upon  the  shore. 

Soon  calmer  water  is  reached ;  and  at  length  we  enter 
the  fine  harbor  of  Montreal,  recognizing  with  a  thrill 
of  pleasure  the  old  landmarks,  Bonsecours  Church  and 
Notre  Dame. 

One  night  is  to  be  passed  in  the  city,  and,  while  we 
travelers  are  resting,  I  shall  improve  the  opportunity 
uy  telling  you  something  of  the  capital  of  the  Dominion 
of  Canafla. 


nf'l 


86 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


■IM 


If  we  had  followcsl  that  brown  river,  tlie  Ottawa,  from 
where  it  joined  tlie  oliu;  St.  Lawrence  np  among  the 
hills  and  Forests,  we  should  Jiave  i;onie  to  a  city  perched 
on  the  river  Idnflfs  close  hy  two  large  falls.  This  is 
Ottawa,  the  ca[»ital  of  Canada. 

About  thirty  years  ago  Kingston,  Toronto,  and  Qne- 
bec  were  all  (piarreling  as  to  wliieh  of  them  should  he 
the  capital  of  the  new  goviuiiment.  Finally  the  (pieen 
was  ap])eale(l  to  ;  and,  passing  over  all  the  older,  jn-oniler 
cities,  she  selected  a  small,  half  savage  place  called 
IJytown  and  named  it  Ottawa. 

Ottawa  is  the  centre  of  the  hnnher  region,  and  its 
wonderful  water  power  is  iised  to  turn  innumerable 
mills.  There  are  mills  for  making  i)ails  and  matches, 
and  sawmills  where  the  buzz  and  hiss  of  saws  cutting 
through  logs  is  heard  day  and  night.  lUit  however 
proud  Ottawa  may  be  of  her  wealth  in  hunber,  she  is 
proudest  of  ;ill  of  the  two  buildings  which  mark  her  as 
th<>  firat  city  in  the  land,  —  the  Parliament  House  and 
ivt  oau  Hall. 

i  iio  Parliament  buildings  are  situated  on  a  hill,  and 
their  towers  can  l)e  seen  from  all  parts  of  the  city. 
With  their  extensive  grounds  they  cover  four  acres  and 
have  cost  five  millions  of  dollai-s.  They  form  three  sides 
of  a  huge  square,  which  is  covered  witli  beautifully  kei>t 
grass  crossed  by  broad  gravel  walks.  The  buildings 
are  of  cream-colored  sandstone,  with  trimmings  of  warm 
red  sandstone.  The  combination  of  the  cream  and  the 
red  is  very  pleasing  to  the  eye. 

The  chambers  for  the  senate  and  for  the  commons  are 
in  the  central  building,  at  the  head  of  the  square.     The 


iirsaajasiir>4;#:fta'?*«'.?s«»<gsfi5;!'i«*:. 


■,'3il*sert**M',iii4ii 


Ava,  fioiii 

long  tlu', 

'  perthed 

Thus  is 

and  Que- 
sbould  1)0 
;ho  ([iiet'u 
1-,  prouder 
ice  (jailed 

1,  and  its 
iinnuM-able 
I  matches, 
,vs  cutting 
t  however 
d)er,  she  is 
lark  her  as 
House  and 

a  hill,  and 
f  the  city, 
r  acres  and 

three  sides 
tifully  kept 
e  buildings 
igH  of  warm 
am  and  the 

ommons  are 
]uare.     The 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS, 


87 


88 


I 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE, 


liiiUa  iiiv.  alike  in  llicir  sliiqx;  and  in  tlu;  ^'tnuMiil  ainnif^o- 
nient  of  the  fninitnre.  The  siR'akoi's  dusk  is  at  ono 
side  of  the  lower  house-;  a  narrow  aisle  leads  to  it,  on 
either  side  of  which  the  desks  of  the  niendnjis  rise  in 
tiei's. 

The  library  is  in  tlie  central  buildinjj,  hack  of  the  two 
chanihers.  It  is  a  grisat,  beautiful  room,  well  planned 
for  readiufif  purposes.  The  woodwork  is  elegantly 
carved,  and  the  room  is  further  adorned  by  a  marble 
statue  of  (^neen  Victoria,  and  marble  busts  of  tho 
Prince  and  I'rincess  of  Wales. 

The  govtu'uor  general  of  Canada  is  appointed  by  the 
(lueen.  He  is  often  a  nobleman.  Canuda  has  been 
very  fortunate  in  her  governors,  for  they  have;  been 
singidarly  able  men,  thoroughly  alive  to  all  that  would 
promote  the  giowth  of  the  country  under  their  rule. 
Kindly  Lord  Dufferin  was  dearly  loved  by  the  Cana- 
dians, and  the  late  governor  general  of  Canada,  the 
Marcpiis  of  Lome,  and  his  gracious  wife,  the  Princtess 
Louise,  daughter  of  the  queen,  have  left  behind  them 
very  pleasant  memories.  Kideau  Hall  was  a  gay  and 
lively  place  both  in  summer  and  winter,  under  their 
sway. 

The  house  itself,  a  large,  rambling  building  of  plas- 
ter, brick,  and  stone,  is  unpretentious,  and,  if  the  truth 
must  be  told,  extremely  ngly  w'len  viewed  from  the 
outside.  lint  within,  Kideau  Hall  is  charming.  There 
have  been  many  additions  to  the  building  from  time  to 
time,  and  a  house  that  has  grown  in  this  way  always 
has  nooks  and  corners,  stairs  here  and  staire  there,  that 
are  thoroughly  delightful. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


80 


arrange- 

s  at  one 

to  it,  oil 

•8  rise  in 

f  tlie  two 

planned 

elegantly 

a  niai'ltle 

,s   of    the 

lid  by  tlie 
has  been 
lave  been 
liat  would 
heir  rule, 
the  Cana- 
mada,   the 
3  Princess 
liind  them 
a  gay  and 
nder  their 

ng  of  plas- 
i  the  truth 
1  from  the 
ng.  There 
cm  time  to 
kvay  always 
I  there,  that 


Then,  too,  it  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
grounds  covering  ninety  acres  in  extent.  At  one  point 
in  the  driveway  leading  to  the  house,  a  circular  open- 
ing has  been  cut  through  the  trees,  giving  a  beautiful 
outlook  upon  the  Ottawa  River.  This  is  called  the 
Princess'  Vista,  because  the  leaf-bordered  win(h)W  was 
opened  at  the  reijuest  of  the  Princess  Louise. 

The  sail  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  is  somewhat  mo- 
notonous. On  vM'h  side  are  narrow,  fertile  strips  of 
farms,  while,  dusty  roads,  and  cottages  clustering  about 
some  high-shouldered,  steei>-roofed  eliureh  with  its  glit- 
tering tin  spire. 

Presently  lofty  Cape  Diamond,  crowned  witli  the 
gray  walls  of  Quebec,  appears,  and  we  glide  slowly  by 
the  city,  getting  many  a  glimpse  of  the  busy  life  in  the 
market  place  and  on  the  wharves.  That  white  streak  on 
tlie  left,  in  the  midst  of  purple  shadows  and  dense  trees, 
is  Montmorency  Falls.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  with  its 
green  and  fertile  farms  is  just  ahead. 

At  this  point  the  river  suddenly  broadens,  and  Hows 
steadily  onward  to  the  sea.  It  is  here  that  the  first 
swell  of  the  ocean  tides  is  felt ;  but  the  salt  taste  of  sea 
water  is  not  found  in  the  St.  Lawrence  for  one  hundred 
miles  more. 

The  mountains  now  approach  the  north  shore,  where 
they  tower  up  dark  and  lonely,  clothed  with  evergreens 
and  with  oaks,  poplars,  and  birches.  Here  and  there 
they  are  parted  by  a  swift  stream  or  river,  and  a  glimpse 
into  the  heart  of  the  liills  is  obtained  that  is  really 
depressing;  such  a  bleak,  de.solate,  awfully  grand  region 
does  it  disclose. 


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90 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  mountiiins  on  tlie  southern  shore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  (h>  not  approach  as  near  to  the  river  bank 
as  do  those  on  the  northern  shore,  'i'lie  rivers  rising 
here  are  slow  and  winding,  and  dark  with  the  rich  soil 
which  they  carry  ah)ng.  The  shore  is  thickly  settled. 
Farmhouses,  villages,  and  now  and  then  a  populous 
town,  succeed  one  another  in  an  endless  procession. 

Here  are  the  popular  summer  resorts  of  the  Cana- 
dians, —  St.  Paul  Bay  and  Murray  Hay  on  the  northern 
shore,  and  Cacouna  on  the  southern. 

On  the  north  shore,  opposite  Cacouna,  is  the  mouth 
of  the  Saguenay  River.  This  is  a  great,  deep  river, 
that  rises  among  dark  and  lonesome  hills,  and,  flowing 
through  most  grand  and  awful  sceneiy,  silently  pours 
its  inky  waters  into  tlie  sparkling  St.  Lawrence. 

The  steamer  pauses  for  a  few  hours  at  Tadoussac,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  and  there  is  time -for  a 
stroll  about  the  town.  It  is  built  on  wooded  heights 
sloping  down  to  a  semicircular  bay,  which  is  so  small 
that  only  ten  or  twelve  ships  at  a  time  can  anchor  there 
in  safety.  From  the  hills  covered  with  spruces,  back 
of  the  town,  a  magnificent  view  is  obtained. 

The  full  breadth  of  the  St.  T^awrence  lies  before  you, 
smooth  as  glass ;  and,  gazing  past  the  numerous  islaiuls 
lying  peacefully  on  its  calm  surface,  you  can  faintly 
distinguish  a  light  blue  line.  It  is  the  south  shore 
twenty-five  miles  away,  which  can  be  seen  only  on  clear, 
bright  days. 

Lord  Dufferin  used  to  spend  his  vacations  at  Ta- 
doussac. It  had  many  advantages  for  a  summer  resi- 
dence.    Steamers  passed  there  daily,  so  the  governor 


'«»si^0!%a«S«^S§8Sl^^J<;;*#"et.*aSai4 


I 


■  the  St. 
ver  bank 
ivs  rising 

rich  soil 
y  sottlod. 
populous 
sion. 
he  Ciina- 

northeni 

le  mouth 
;ep  river, 
I,  rtowing 
tly  pours 

oussac,  at 
me -for  a 
tl  heights 
so  small 
:hor  there 
ices,  back 

fore  you, 
us  islands 
,n  faintly 
nth  shore 
r  on  clear, 

IS  at   Ta- 
nner resi- 
governor 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


91 


could  kei'i)  i)osted  as  to  the  daily  news ;  tlien  tlie  nat- 
ural attractions  of  Tadoussac  were  great.  It  was  in  the 
midst  of  beautiful  scenery,  and  still  grander  scenery 
could  be  easily  reached  by  taking  a  steamer  up  the 
Saguenay.  There  was  also  fine  fisliing  and  hunting  in 
the  neighborliood. 

Tadoussac;  is  connected  with  the  past  by  no  less  than 
three  interesting  relics.  Here  can  be  seen  the  liattery 
of  Jacques  Cartier,  tlie  early  exi)lorer  of  Canada;  the 
old,  weather-worn  hut  tliat  once  belonged  to  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  ;  and  last  and  greatest  attraction  of  all, 
a  little  Jesuit  church,  which  is  two  bundled  and  fifty 
years  old.  Next  to  the  church  in  St.  Augustine,  in 
Florida,  it  is  the  oldest  in  America. 

Once  more  tlie  steamer  is  sailing  up  tlie  Saguenay. 
On  eaph  side  it  is  walled  in  by  cliffs  over  a  thousand 
feet  high,  whicli  rise  directly  from  the  water's  edge. 
Beneath  them  the  dark  river  flows  sluggishly  along. 
The  further  any  one  sails  on  this  strange  river,  tlfe  more 
awtul  and  impressive  does  it  become. 

The  loneliness  of  the  scene  is  overwlielming.  The 
gleam  of  the  white  fins  of  a  p()ri)oise,  tlie  whirl  of  a 
gull  overhead,  and  the  distant  flash  of  a  sail  only  make 
one  realize  more  fully  the  great  silence  and  the  absence 
of  Imman  life.     The  scream  of  tlie  loon  is  startling. 

The  story  that  a  party  of  early  French  explorere 
sailed  up  the  Saguenay  and  were  never  seen  again, 
seems  quite  in  harmony  with  the  impression  the  river 
has  left  upon  the  mind.  A  vessel  might  sink  in  these 
mysterious,  dark  waters,  and  the  cliffs  might  echo  and 
reecho  with  the  despairing  cries  of  drowning  men,  and 


"'''^m''U:M' 


I!  i:L„ 


92 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


■ 


ji 


i    t 


the  groat,  busy  world  Ik;  never  the  wiser.     The  Sague- 
iiay  keeps  its  own  rounscl. 

'J'he  passengers  are  now  arranging  tlieniselves  on  one 
side  of  thf  steamer  so"  as  best  to  see  Cape  Eternity. 
This  is  a  perpendicnhir  shaft  of  rock  rising  from  the 
river.  The  eVe  foUows  tlie  clear  reileetion  down  into 
the  water,  and  then,  returning  to  the  cliff  itself,  moves 
up  and  u[)  its  towering  heights  of  fifteen  hundred  feet 
to  the  very  cloiuls.  The  top  of  the  cliff,  crowned  with 
bushy  pines,  leans  forward  and  seems  about  to  totter 
and  fall. 

As  the  steamer  moves  beneath  its  shadow,  many  a 
passenger  feels  the  same  dizzy  sensation  that  often  over- 
takes one  while  standing  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice. 
The  water  at  the  bi\.se  of  Cape  Eternity  is  of  unknown 
depth.  The  face  of  the  cliff  is  weather-stained,  and 
here  and  there  a  spring  of  water  trickles  down.    - 

Cape  Trinity  is  a  little  farther  up  tlie  river  on  the 
same  side.  Though  three  hundred  feet  higher  than  its 
sister  cliff.  Cape  Trinity  does  not  seem  so  terrible  as 
Cape  Eternity.  It  slopes  gently  backward  from  the 
river,  and  is  clothed  to  the  summit  with  dense  ranks  of 
tall  pines.  The  cliff  has  been  rent  by  the  mighty  force 
of  fire  or  eartlupiake  into  three  divisions,  and  so  has 
been  named  Trinity. 

Sixty  miles  more  of  bleak  and  rugged  hills  bring  us 
to  Ha  Ha  Bay.  This  bay  was  first  entered  by  a  gay 
party  of  French  explorei-s  who  thought  they  were  follow- 
ing the  river.  Discovering  their  blunder,  they  burst 
into  peals  of  laughter,  ancj  named  the  bay  that  had  so 
deceived  them.  Ha  Ha. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


93 


le  Sague- 

es  on  one 
Eternity. 

from  the 
lown  into 
elf,  moves 
idred  feet 
vneil  with 

to  totter 

\r^  many  a 
jften  over- 
precipice, 
unknown 
[lined,  and 
n.    - 

fQv  on  the 
er  than  its 
terrible  as 
from  the 
se  ranks  of 
ighty  force 
md  so  has 

Is  bring  us 
[  by  a  gay 
'ere  foUow- 
they  l)urst 
that  had  so 


It  is  a  groat  relief  to  find  this  cheerful  little  nook 
nestled  among  the  solenui  hills.  I'eople  are  cutting 
down  trees,  running  mills,  and  picking  berries.  The 
common  everyday  matters  of  life  are  going  on,  even 
though  the  place  is  near  the  gloomy  and  awful 
Saguenay. 

But  wc  must  tarry  no  longer  on  this  tributary  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  however  beautiful  it  may  l)e,  but  hasten 
back  to  the  main  stream.  Past  the  Saguenay  Uiver, 
the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  recede  very  rapidly  from 
each  other.  Presently  the  farther  sliore  seems  but  a 
faint  mist  cm  tlie  horizon  line.  And  now  the  salt 
breeze  blows  in  our  faces  ;  the  swell  of  the  river  be- 
comes that  of  the  sea  ;  and  linally  the  St.  Lawrence, 
its  long  task  of  draining  a  continent  over,  joyously, 
leaps  into  the  sea.  »  , 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


QUAINT   OLD   QUKBEC. 


Over  three  hundred  yeai-s  ago  the  King  of  Fro  nee 
gave  three  vessels  to  a  brave  and  good  navigator  named 
Jacques  Cartier.  He  was  instructed  to  follow  the  river 
St.  Lawrence,  whose  entrance  he  had  discovered  a  year 
before,  and  see  if  he  could  not  reach  Lidia. 

Even  the  wisest  men  in  those  days  did  not  know  so 
much  geography  as  a  boy  of  ten  does  to-day.  But  the 
mistaken  idea  was  a  good  one  on  some  accounts,  for  it 
led  to  the  thorough  exploration  of  many  of  our  large 


94 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


rivei-s  on  the  Atlaiitiu  coast.  The  James  auil  Iliulcion 
were  taken  tor  routes  to  India,  as  well  as  tlie  St.  Law- 
rence. 

Cartier  was  to  take  ptjssession  of  all  the  land  for  fair 
France,  and  to  bring  back  to  liis  gracious  sovereign  yel- 
low gold  and  line  pearls  from  India.  His  stanch  little 
vessels  breasted  the  Atlantic  surges,  and  came  Huttering 
up  the  river,  looking  to  the  astonished  Indians  like  great, 
white-winged  waterfowl  from  some  unknown  country 
across  the  sea. 

They  sailed  on  and  on  up  this  mighty  river,  which 
was  almost  broad  enough  for  a  sea.  After  they  had 
followed  its  course  for  three  hundred  miles,  they  saw 
before  them  a  great  red  rock  projecting  into  the  stream. 
A  green  bluff  on  the  opposite  shore  stretched  towards 
the  rock ;  and  thus  the  bed  of  tlie  river  was  narrowed 
at  this  point  to  oidy  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile. 

Cartier  landed,  climbed  the  rock,  and  looked  around 
him.  Over  three  hundred  feet  below  rolled  the  great 
river.  He  could  have  dropped  a  stone  into  its  waters 
as  they  lapjied  the  foot  of  the  rock.  From  both  shores 
vast  plains  stretched  away.  The  green  turf  and  ancient 
forests  bore  testimony  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  Blue 
mountain  peaks  forty  miles  distant  formed  an  appropri- 
ate setting  for  this  l)eautiful  view. 

Did  Cartier  see  in  a  vision  the  city  that  was  to  be  ? 
Did  he  see  the  river,  so  clearly  marked  out  as  one  of  the 
great  water  ways  of  the  world,  alive  with  craft  of  every 
description?  Did  he  picture  great  ships  from  all  over 
the  world  riding  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  ? 

Something  of  this  he  undoubtedly  saw;   for  a  man 


■<'«s-WMai'«^i^«w«i*^^^^ 


Hudson 
St.  Law- 

l  for  fair 
eign  yel- 
it'li  little 
lutteriug 
ke  great, 
country 

er,  which 
they  had 
they  saw 
e  stream. 
.  towards 
narrowed 

d  around 
the  great 
its  waters 
(th  shores 
id  ancient 
il.  Blue 
appropri- 

as  to  he? 
one  of  the 
t  of  every 
m  all  over 

or  a  man 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


95 


of  his  experience  could  hut  realize  that  this  was  the 
commanding  point  of  the  river,  the  key  of  the  country. 
His  heart  swelled  with  hope  and  trust  in  what  wius  to 
he.  All  this  heautiful  region  lie  gave  to  God,  to  France, 
and  to  his  king. 

Fifty  years  afterward,  Cliamplain  founded  the  city  of 
Quehec.  The  name  whicli  lie  gave  it  means  narrow- 
ing, and  refers  to  the  narrowing  of  the  St.  Jvawrence 
at  this  point.  Cliamplain  was  a  great  explorer.  He 
discovered  the  Richelieu  River  and  Lake  Cliamplain. 
He  sailed  up  the  Ottawa,  visited  Lake  Ontario  for  the 
fii-st  time,  and  founded  Montreal. 

Cliamplain  was  devoted  to  the  interests  of  his  little 
colony.  Twenty  times  he  crossed  the  ocean  to  inter- 
cede, in  her  helialf,  with  the  home  government.  And 
crossing  the  ocean  in  those  days  was  a  much  longer  and 
a  much  more  dangerous  undertaking  than  it  is  now. 

His  treaties  Avith  the  Indians  were  never  hroken. 
With  the  single  exception  of  the  Iroquois,  he  won  all 
the  Indians  for  his  firm  friends ;  and  the  influence  of 
the  French  over  them  was  still  more  increased  hy  the 
arrival  of  Jesuit  priests. 

Cham2)lain  was  an  ardently  religious  man.  He  first 
gave  Quehec  that  strong  religious  hent  which  it  has 
kept  to  the  present  day.  There  are  now  five  times  the 
numher  of  churches  needed  for  the  population,  and  it 
was  relatively  so  in  the  seventeenth  century. 

One  of  the  chief  ohjects  of  the  French  in  settling 
Quehec  was  to  Christianize  the  Indians;  and  early  in 
the  history  of  the  settlement  a  hand  of  Jesuits  arrived 
for  this  purpose.     They  were  hrave,  devoted  men  wlio 


Otf 


m 


''I. 


96 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS    PEOPlF.. 


r  !' 


wore  williiiir  to  suftVr  all  inamuTof  piivations  to  actom- 
l.lisli  their  ends.  Many  of  them  lived  for  years  in  the 
wiKwams  of  Indian  families,  wandering  where  they  wan- 
dered, hunting,  lH-arinj."l>'irdens,  suiferinjr  f,„in  cold  and 
Imiiger  —  all  to  gain  the  love  of  the  savage  people. 

So  it  naturally  came  to  pass  that  the  Indians  were 
devoted  to  the  Freneh  an<l  their  interests.  This  faet 
was  a  sad  one  f<.r  the  English.  In  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury then;  were  a  numher  of  wars  l)etween  the  two 
nations,  in  which  the  Indians  were  most  terrihle  foes  to 
the  English.  Many  an  outlying  settlement  was  burned 
in  the  dead  of  night  and  the  people  hrutally  massacred. 
Winter  stopped  the  action  of  the  French  and  English 
armies;  hut  on  their  snowshoes  the  red  men  could  easily 
and  (luickly  make  their  way  to  any  region,  and  the 
settlers  never  felt  safe  from  their  stealthy  assaults. 

The  old  citadel  of  Queliec,  on  the  summit  of  the  rock, 
has  been  besieged  live  times.  Sir  William  Pepi)erell, 
governor  of  Massachusetts,  and  his  besieging  army  were 
once  triumphantly  driven  away.  The  citizens,  to  cele- 
brate this  victor) ,  built  a  little  church  called  Our  Lady 
of  the  Victory. 

vVt  the  time  of  its  erection  a  nun  prophesied  that  this 
church  was  to  be  burned  by  the  English,  who  would 
conciuer  the  city  at  some  future  date.  The  prophecy 
came  true.  In  1751),  in  the  last  and  most  terrible  of 
the   Indian  Avars,   Quebec  was    taken   by  the    English 

under  Wolfe. 

Every  schoolboy  knows  the  story  of  the  capture:  how 
Wolfe  and  his  men  floated  silently  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence to  a  sheltered  little  cove  ;  how  they  climbed  the 


e 
a 

ai 
oi 
s; 
ir 
11 
m 
ol 

of 

IK 

Oil 

Fi 

pa 
Hf 
of 
of 
ce: 

nu 
lie 
till 
pU 

'•y 


••^^ 


w*^ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


97 


to  iicLom- 
ars  in  tlie 
they  w.iii- 
1  cold  ami 
oplo. 
liaiis  wcri! 

Tliis  fact 
eenth  ceii- 
i  the  two 
hie  foes  to 
vm  burned 
massacred. 
1(1  Eufflish 
ould  easily 
1,  and  the 
assaidts. 
)f  the  rock, 

l'epi)inoll, 
army  were 
us,  to  cele- 
l  Our  Lady 

13(1  that  this 
who  would 
e  prophecy 
terrible  of 
he    English 

ipture:  how' 
he  St.  Law- 
jlimbed  the 


steep  ascent  (o  the  lli>it,di(s  of  Alniiham,  dra^-,<riii<r  their 
single  cannon  ai'tcr  tliciii ;  how  Alontcahn,  th,.-  onHant 
Frencli  commander,  came  from  Uiu  cKy  (,,  ,|„.,,(  ||j^ 
C(iually  gallant  foe;  and  liow  tlic  French  were  defeated, 
and  ])otli  Icadei's  slain. 

The  dying  words  of  Ix.th  captains  have  often  been 
repeat(!(l  by  schoolboys  whose  hearts  swell  with  emotion 
at  the  noble  (l(!atlis  of  these  bmve  men.  Wolfe,  dying 
on  tlie  battlclield,  when  told  that  the  French  ^^■^^]v,  living, 
said,  "(iod  be  praised;  1  die  happy."  Montcalm,  dying 
in  the  (puet  slicker  of  the  I'lsiiliiie  Convent,  when  t(ild 
that  he  should  only  live  a  few  hours,  answered,  "So 
mucii  the  better;  I  shall  not  live  to  see  the  surrender 
of  Quebec." 

With  the  fall  of  Quebec  Canada  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  English,  and  ever  since  it  has  been  the  most  val- 
ued foreign  possession  of  (ireat  Hritain. 

Although  belonging  to  the  English,  tiie  city  is  thor- 
oughly French  in  its  api)earaiice.  It  resembles  the 
French  cities  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  its  princi- 
pal charm  is  that,  although  situated  so  near  the  bustliiKr 
life  of  our  nineteenth  century,  it  yet  maintains  a  spirit 
of  reinoteiuiss  and  aiiti(iuity.  It  is  the  constant  delight 
of  tourists  who  love  to  awaken  in  themselves  reminis- 
ceiiees  of  the  castles  and  cathedrals  of  Europe. 

Travelers  by  boat  often  reach  Quebec  early  in  the 
morning,  and  the  first  glimpse  of  the  city  is  a  .sight 
never  to  be  forgotten.  The  great  rock  towei-s  above 
the  river.  It«  base  is  enveloped  by  mist;  but  the  pur- 
ple and  red  lights  of  its  crown  are  brought  out  clearly 
by  the  morning  sunshine. 


i 


I' 


i 


I  3: 

i  ■ 


?:)■ 


i  ^ 


98 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE, 


At  its  fet't  Hows  the  rivi.T,  covered  with  cnil't  of  every 
dcscrii)tioii,  —  K'reiit  foiei^Mi-looking  sliips,  wliite  and 
black  steamers,  aiul  noisy  little  tug  bouts  plying  Uicir 
busy  way  from  sboreto  sboie.  At  the  foot  of  the 
crag  and  iiloiig  its  slopes  are  the  bouses  of  tlie  lower 
town.  Tlie  summit  is  edged  with  tlie  famous  gray  wall, 
and  topped  by  tbe  citadel.  Over  all  iloats  tbe  scarlet 
llag  of  Kngland  witli  tlie  St.  George's  cross. 

Tlie  rock  on  wliicb  the  citadel  is  built  is  called  Capo 
Diamond,  because  of  the  crystals  of  cpiartz  wbicli  have 
been  found  there.  Cape  Diamond  is  very  abrupt  on 
tbe  southeastern  or  river  side,  but  towards  the  north- 
west it  sloi)es  downward  into  the  table-lands  wbich  Una 
the  St.  Lawrence  for  eight  miles. 

All  the  elevated  land  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  which 
closely  skirts  the  blntT  for  some  distance,  and  then  cuts 
across  the  table-lands  a  mile  back  of  the  citadeU  The 
laud  inclosed  by  the  wall  forms  the  u[)per  town,  which 
contains  most  of  the  public  buildings,  dwelling  houses, 
and  small  stores. 

The  lower  town  skirts  tbe  foot  of  Cape  Diamond, 
extends  u[)  the  slopes  to  the  gray  walls,  and  stretches 
away  over  the  plains  to  the  north  and  west.  Here  are 
found  the  wholesale  stores  and  the  business  and  com- 
mercial blocks. 

The  upper  town  is  reached  from  the  lower  town  in 
three  ways,  —  by  a  zigzag  road  leading  up  Mountain 
Street,  by  such  a  very  steep  flight  of  steps  that  they  are 
known  as  Breakneck  Stairs,  and  by  an  elevator  which 
is  not  used  in  winter. 

If  we  climb  ]}reakneck  Stairs,  we  come  to  Dufferin 


d 
b 
li 


.  of  overy 
liito  and 
iiig  their 
it  of  tlio 
Llio  lowur 
fray  wall, 
lio  searlot 

\\vx\  Capo 
liicli  have 
ibnipt  on 
ho  north- 
vhiuli  linu 

:all  wliich 

then  cnts 
(leU  Tho 
wn,  which 
ig  houses, 

Diamond, 

I  stretches 

Here  are 

and  com- 

r  town  in 

Mountain 

^t  they  are 

xtor  which 

:>  Dufferin 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


ltl> 


Terrace.  This  is  a  niiigiiilicciit  i)ronu'nail(;  hiid  out  on 
the  edge  of  the  clilf  two  Inuiihvd  feet  aiiuve  the  water. 
The  platform,  as  we  might,  call  it,  is  two  hinidred  feet 
wide,  'i'he  [(cople  wiio  imve  been  criimi.fd  in  ihc  niir- 
row,  crooked  streets  all  d;iy,  come  in  the  evening  to 
this  wide,  free,  i)ree/,y  spiice,  and  walk,  talk,  and  gaze 
upon  the  view  to  their  heart's  content. 

Here  and  tlieii!  on  the  edge  of  the  terrace  summer- 
houses  or  pavilions  liave  been  erected  wherever  the  i)ros- 
pect  is  linest.  And  indeed  the  outlook  is  a  magnilicent 
one. 

The  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  linger  on  the  steei) 
tin  roofs  of  the  houses  of  the  lower  town,  making  them 
appear  lik'  molten  gold.  The  river  rolls  on  its  tran- 
(juil  way  hetween  the  green  shores  and  the  naiiow, 
regular  farms  which  run  like  ribbons  from  the  river  to 
the  I'oad. 

As  the  evening  wears  on,  the  promenadcrs  increase. 
There  are  a  few  young  Englislunen,  and  some  American 
travelers;  but  the  majority  of  the  i)co[>lo  are  French  of 
the  middle  class.  Here  is  the  grave  lawyer,  tall  and 
thin,  with  his  profession  unmistakably  carved  in  the 
severe  linos  on  liis  face.  Many  grou[)s  of  young  people 
are  seen.  The  girls  are  pretty,  and  are  dressed  in  old- 
fashioned  style.  The  young  men  are  dressed  more 
gayly.  They  wear  bright-colored  ties  and  gay  scarfs, 
with  perhaps  a  few  superfluous  rings. 

Now  it  is  deep  twiliglit.  The  huge  bulk  of  the  cita- 
del rises  to  the  right.  The  street,s  of  the  lower  town 
begin  to  be  defined  Iiy  dotted  lines  of  light,  as  tho  lamp- 
lighter goes  on  his  rounds.     Lights  swarm  up  the  oppo- 


m 


"^mm^!'' 


i 


111 


100 


THE   WORLD  AND    ITS    PEOPLE, 


ll 


M 


Hito  slope!  of  Point  Levi,  Jiiid  trustor  lliii^Uly  in  tlic  liiu- 
bor  wluMi!  till!  sliijiiiiii^f  lies. 

Suddenly  a  .slriiiijfi!,  ifuw  hii^ditiicss  iippcius  in  the 
IiL'iivuns.  A  j^'lowinj,'  arch  si»iiM.s  tlio  nortlicrn  sky,  iind 
(piivi'iinif  (liirts  of  pale  violi't  and  dclicatr  crimson  slioot 
from  it  to  llic  zcnitli.  It  is  llio  aurora  borcalis,  tlic 
wonder  of  llio  nctitli ! 

Only  too  soon  tlu"  sky  is  dark  aj^ain,  and,  wariUMl  of 
till!  lateness  of  tla!  lionr  l)y  a  det'i)  hoom  from  tlio  cita- 
del j^uii,  wo  leave  the  teirii"e,  carrying'  with  us  as  one 
of  tlie  richest  of  our  C^uehoc  exitcriences,  this  vision 
from  DulTcrin  Terrace. 

15y  day  the  terrace  is  almost  deserted.  Only  a  few 
nurseniaiils  with  their  ehar,L(cs  visit  the  (juiet,  sunny 
s[iot.  'l"he  children  play  aiound  tlie  ohl  {,nni  carria^'cs 
and  the  piles  of  cannon-balls  which  are  stacked  on  the 
terrace. 

liack  of  Dufl'erin  Terrace  is  the  Governor's  Garden. 
This  was  a  much  freiiucnted  s[)ot  in  earlier  days,  but 
now  it  is  somewhat  neglected.  Very  few  persons  are 
seen  walkiuj^'  down  the  shady  paths,  where  formerly 
thronged  tlu!  nobility  and  wealth  of  the  city. 

Its  chief  attraction  is  a  stati'ly  monument  to  Mont- 
calm and  Wolfe.  The  obelisk,  sixty-live  feet  high, 
bears  a  Latin  inscription  to  the  two  heroes.  It  was 
a  happy  thought  to  unite  by  a  common  monument 
"the  memory  of  those  who  fell  in.  fight  against  each 
other,  as  closely  as  if  they  had  both  died  for  the  same 
cause." 

From  the  western  end  of  Dufferin  Terrace  a  flight  of 
several  hundred  steps  leads   to   the   top  of  the  grassy 


1  'I 


'■'^^i^ies^sii^^g&i 


mt:K 


"^"^^jiSi 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS 


101 


tlic    lllll- 

.  ill  tlu; 
<ky,  iiiid 

)ll   sllOdt 

ilis,   lliu 

ariu'd  of 
till!  ('it;i- 
s  us  niiu 
is   vision 

y  a  ft'w 

t,  smiiiy 
jiirriii^M'S 

I     oil     till! 

Giinlon. 

lays,  but 
'SOUS  are 
fonnurly 

Li)  Moiit- 
let  liij^li, 
It  was 
onuiiient 
list  each 
the  same 

flight  of 
le  glassy 


liaiik  on  wliich  thi!  foitilicatioiis  arc  hiiilt.  Ily  folhiw- 
iiig  the  narrow  iiathwiiy,  we  reaeh  the  entranre  to  the 
eita(U!h 

We  pass  tlirongli  the  chain  gates  and  stand  in  the 
parade  ground.  ()|)|iosili'  is  (lie  dark,  heavy  strui^tiiri! 
of  Dalhoiisit!  (iatt!.  Hut  notwithstanding  its  grim 
aspeet,  tlii!  scciic  is  one  of  [teace.  The  top  of  the 
walls  and  ramiiaiis  are  overgrown  with  grass,  upon 
wliieh  Severn)   goats  are  traiKiuilly   feeding. 

Passing  DiiUioiisie  (Jate  we  are  fairly  within  the  cita- 
del, and  a  hewildering  array  of  walls,  ranqiarts,  and 
ditehes  stretches  away  in  all  <lirections.  As  we  follow 
the  zigzag  lines  with  our  eyes,  we  i^an  well  helievo 
that  till!  fortress  covers  forty  acres.  Tlu!  strongest  fort 
in  the  Old  World  is  on  the  liov.k  of  (Jihraltar.  When 
(^uehee  was  first  huilt,  its  walls  were  so  thick  and 
strong  that  it  was  called  " 'I'lie  (iihraltar  of  America." 

The  ramparts  overgrown  with  grass  form  di!liglitful 
liroinenades  and  (!()mmand  beautiful  views  in  all  direc- 
tions. Here  may  be  seen  the  guns  taken  from  the 
Americans  at  Hunker  Hill,  Atone  place  in  the  fortl- 
lications  a  feather  is  carved  in  the  stone  wall.  The 
red-coated  soldier  explains  that  once,  as  the  Hriiice  of 
Wales  was  reviewing  the  citadel,  the  feather  fell  from 
his  cai)  njion  this  very  stone.  An  ollicer,  anxious  to 
preserve  the  memory  of  this  little  incident  of  the 
prince's  visit,  afterwards  carved  this  feather.  Whether 
the  story  is  trne  or  not,  it  shows  very  clearly  the  de- 
voted, almost  touching,  loyalty  of  Canada  to  England. 

The  jnarried  sohliers  have  rooms  built  in  the  interior 
of  the  massive  earthwork.     Light  and  air  are  su[)plied 


:  A^ 


102 


THE   WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE 


by  deoi)  windows.  It  would  setMu  strange  to  us  o  eat 
and  .sleep  with  the  solid  earth  hanked  above  and  around 
us.  liut  the  home  of  the  soldier  seems  a  very  natural 
and  dear  [)laee  to  him.  • 

The  Basilica,  the  Catholie  cathedral,  is  one  of  the 
noted  landmarks  t)f  the  eity.  Although  not  as  niagnili- 
cent  as  the  cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  in  Montreal,  still 
it  is  a  very  handsome  building  of  cut  stone.  The  front 
of  the  church  is  massive,  with  a  tower  in  one  corner 
and  a  spire  on  the  other. 

Entering  the  church,  you  are  impressed  with  the  bril- 
liancy of  the  interior.  The  coloring  is  white  and  f'old, 
and  there  is  much  rich  ornamentation.  Many  tine  i)aint- 
ings,  which  were  sent  to  Canada  for  safe  keeinng  at  the 
time  of  the  French  Revolution,  adorn  the  walls.  One 
by  one  the  worshipers  enter  the  church  and  dii)  their 
fingers  in  the  holy  water  placed  near  the  door;  then 
they  prostrate  themselves  before  the  glittering  high 
alUvr  or  before  some  modest  shrine.  Solemn  officers, 
decorated  with  gold  lace,  move  softly  about.  The 
swinging  censers  waft  fragrant  incense  toward  you. 

As  you  stand  there  in  the  sliadowy  church,  you 
realize  that  now  you  are  close  to  the  real  heart  and  life 
of  Quebec.  This  church  and  the  convents,  scliools,  and 
liospitals  which  have  sprung  up  beneath  its  sliadow, 
have  really  been  the  guiding  influences  in  the  history 
of  the  city  from  the  earliest  times. 

In  front  of  the  catliedral  is  a  stand  for  drivers  of 
calechcs  and  other  carriages.  The  caleche,  or  one-horse 
chaise,  is  seen  in  the  streets  of  Quebec  as  ofien  as  the 
gondola  is  seen  at  Venice,  or  the  emio-rants'  wajron  on 


fe  to  us    0  eat 

Dvo  aiul  around 

a  \ cry  natural 

is  Olio  of  the 

not  as  niagiiili- 

iMontreal,  still 

III!.     The  front 

in  one  corner 

\  with  the  hril- 
liite  and  gold, 
(any  fine  paint- 
keeping  at  the 
le  walls.     One 

and  dip  their 
he  door;  then 
flittering  high 
olemii  officers, 

about.  The 
toward  you. 
■  church,  you 
heart  and  life 
s,  scliools,  and 
li  its  shadow, 
in  the  history 

for  tlrivers  of 
?,  or  one-horse 
IS  oficn  as  the 
Ills'  wagon  on 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS 


103 


the  plain.  The  Ijody  of  tlie  caleche  is  shaped  like  the 
bowl  ot  a  large  s[)ooii  ;  it  is  sup[)ortcd  upon  two  strong, 
leather  straps  which  take  the  place  of  springs.  These 
straps  can  lie  loosened  or  tightened  so  as  to  give  the 
occuiiant  of  the  cai'riage  every  kind  of  a  jolt,  from  a 
rather  agreeable  rocking  motion  to  an  ii[)sct.  There 
are  two  seats,  —  one  for  two  passengers,  and  another  on 
the  dashboard  for  the  driver.  Wings  extend  from  both 
sides  over  the  wheels,  and  prevent  the  mud  from  splash- 
ing the  occupants. 

When  the  caleche  drivers  see  a  person  with  the  air  of 
a  tourist  wandering  through  the  cathedral  square,  they 
rush  toward  him  in  a  body,  each  one  urging  the  victim 
to  hire  his  carriage.  The  horses  meanwhile  calmly 
munch  corn  from  their  head  bags. 

There  are  scores  of  convents  in  Quebec.  Each  street 
has  one  and  sometimes  two  or  three  of  these  buildings, 
whose  high  stone  walls  often  adjoin  one  another.  Tlje 
convents  and  the  monasteries  are  gigantic  when  com- 
pared with  the  ordinary  Canadian  dwelling  house. 

One  of  the  oldest  and  most  famous  is  the  Ursuline 
Convent.  This  was  founded  liy  Madame  de  la  Peltrie 
in  the  early  days  of  the  colony.  Madame  de  la  Peltrie 
was  a  beautiful  and  good  young  widow  who  was  anxious 
to  use  her  wealth  in  educating  Indian  girls.  So  she 
came  to  this  wild  country  and  founded  the  Ursuline 
Convent  in  Quebec. 

The  original  building  is  standing  yet,  although  two 
centuries  ago  everything  hut  the  walls  was  burnt.  The 
ancient  walls  of  gray  stone  are  surmounted  by  a  steei) 
roof  covered  with  tin.     The  pretty  cha[)el  stands  at  the 


j'^-l  O^Ti^V.. 


?lM-~» 


■■:>'ti»a?s.:..- 


104 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


X 


U  t 


light.  While  you  are  gazing  at  tlie  building,  a  door 
opous  and  a  orowd  of  biown-eyed  little  giils  liasten  into 
the  street.  Sidonie,  Marie,  Therese,  —  these  are  the 
names  they  are  calling  to  one  another.  They  are  the 
modern  little  maidens  who  have  succeeded  the  dark 
Huron  girls  in  the  convent. 

The  efforts  of  the  Ursuline  nuns  to  convert  the 
daughters  of  the  Indians  were  not  very  successful,  and 
as  tlieie  are  now  very  few  Hurons  alive,  the  nuns  teach 
the  Catholic  girls  of  Qnebec. 

Back  of  the  convent,  surrounded  by  a  high  stone 
wall,  is  a  large  and  beautiful  garden.  A  large  ash, 
under  which  Madame  de  la  lY'ltrie  was  accustomed  to 
teach  the  Indian  girls,  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  garden 
until,  a  few  years  ago,  it  was  blown  down  in  a  storm. 
Now  the  spot  is  marked  by  a  large  black  cross.  Around 
tile  cross  a  munber  of  paths  wind  and  turn  in  all  di- 
rections between  clumps  of  fragrant  lilacs  and  rows  of 
slender  lu)llyhocks.  Here  the  nuns  often  walk  with 
their  pupils;  and  their  sweet  voices  and  the  joyous 
laughter  of  the  girls  are  sometimes  faintly  heard  in  the 
neiglil){)ring  street. 

The  dress  of  the  Ui-suline  nuns  is  l)lack,  with  a  black 
veil  falling  down  from  the  back  of  the  head.  The  face 
is  surrounded  with  white  linen,  and  a  kind  of  kerchief 
of  the  same  material  covers  the  shoulders  and  reaches 
to  (lie  waist. 

Montcalm  died  in  this  convent,  and  was  burie.l  in 
the  garden  where  a  cannc.n  ball  struck.  On  the  walls 
of  tlie  (-hapcl  is  a  tablet  to  his  mcmorv,  on  which 
is  written   in   French,  "Honor  to  Montcalm:      Destiny 


'is^Ss 


Si"s.*t^.'a,i>i«,jt..«*jK<i.ajj.,  ■ 


-^ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


10") 


];,  <a  n.oor 
iston  into 
!  are  the 
y  are  the 
the  dark 

ivert  the 
isful,  and 
ins  teach 

^h  stone 
irq'e  asli, 
.onit'd  to 
e  garden 
a  storm. 

Aronnd 
ti  all  di- 

rows  of 
dk  with 
i  joyous 
■d  in  the 

a  black 
riie  fa(^e 
kerchief 

reaches 

U'ied  in 
le  Avails 
I  which 
Destiny 


in  depriving  him  of  victory,  requited  him  with  a  glori- 
ous death  I  "  They  have  his  skull  in  the  convent,  and 
are  very  willing  to  show  it  to  visitors.  Jt  is  kept  in  a 
small  glass  box,  bound  with  black  and  covered  with  a 
bit  of  white  lace  drapery. 

The  houses  of  Quebec  ai'c  mostly  very  small  and 
quaint.  They  are  oidy  one  story  or  one  story  and  a 
half  high,  and  are  built  either  of  stone  or  of  j)lastcred 
brick.  The  high  roofs  are  sheathed  in  glittering  lin, 
and  have  one  or  two  'ows  of  dormer  windows.  The 
Canadians  arc  very  fond  of  bright  flowers,  and  their 
windows  are  often  crowded  with  scarlet  geraniums. 
The  doom  are  generally  painted  a  bright  coloi',  differ- 
ent from  that  of  the  house  itself.  They  are  further 
ornamented  by  shining  brass  knockers  and  by  large 
I)lates  bearing  the  owner's  name  and  possibly  his  title. 
"Monsieur  Blanc,  avocat,"  we  read  from  one  bright 
green  door.  This  means  in  English,  "  Mr.  White,  I.aw- 
yer."  The  doorstejjs  are  covered  with  bright,  clean 
oil  cloth. 

The  wooden  sidewalks  and  roughly  paved,  narrow 
streets  are  very  cl(!an.  The  streets  an^  winding  and 
steep,  and  in  the  upper  town  are  fre(]uently  terminated 
by  a  breadth  of  th(!  city  wall  pierced  with  loopholes  for 
muskets.  Sometimes  a  caiuion  will  be  restinjr  near  the 
wall. 

There  were  formerly  five  gates  to  the  town.  But 
they  were  found  too  small  ami  nai-row  for  the  increasing 
business  of  the  city,  and  within  a  score  of  yeare  they 
have  all  disappeared.  Three  fine  new  entrances  have 
been    erected,  but   their  newness   does  not  harmonize 


m€ 


106 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


witli  the  anciont  liLstnric  wall   of  wliicli  they  iovm   a 
part.     Tourists  regret  the  absence  of  tlie  old  gati's. 

(hw  can  spend  houi-s  looking  out  of  the  window  at 
tlie  passei-s-l)y,  they  are  so  varied  in  ai)i)earance  and  in 
dress.  Here  are  stout,  broad-featured  country  women 
in  plain  skirts  and  wide  straw  hats,  either  walking  into 
tt)wn  with  the  basket  containing  the  small  wares  they 
offer  for  sale,  or  driving  in  small,  brightly  painted 
wooden  carts.  Handsome  young  oilicers  in  their  scarlet 
uniforms  mingle  with  the  grave  priests,  Avho  continually 
lift  their  broad-brimmed  liats  in  passing.  Here  and 
there  is  visible  a  trim,  blue-coated  iMcnch  policeman. 
Down  the  narrow  wooden  sidewalk  comes  a  l)evy  of 
Flench  schoolgirls,  with  dark  eyes  and  smoothly 
braided  hair.  A  pale,  sweet-faced  nun  glides  swiftly 
by  with  downcast  eyes.  A, butcher's  boy  with  liis  tray 
upon  liis  shoulder  i)asses  Avith  a  run  and  a  whoop,  He 
is  the  only  noisy  one  in  the  quiet  throng. 

There  is  another  monument  to  Wolfe  which  we  must 
see  before  leaving  the  city.  This  is  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraliam,  where  the  battle  was  fought  that  gave  Quebec 
to  the  English.  Tliese  plains  do  not  seem  like  a  battle- 
field. The  sun  shines  warmly  upon  the  green  turf,  and 
the  birds  sing  sweetly.  It  does  not  seem  possible  that 
this  quiet,  ruml  spot  was  the  scene  of  slaugliter,  or  that 
this  gi-ass  was  ever  stained  with  blood. 

The  column  raised  to  Wolfe's  memory  is  erected  on 
the  spot  where  he  died.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  bronze 
helmet  and  sword,  and  Invars  the  simple  but  eloquent 
inscrii)tion,  "  Here  fell  Wolfe,  victorious." 

There  are  many  beautiful  drives  about  Quebec.     IJut 


's'lSSsa^jflipassistsasijii*- 


■  foiTii  a 

itl'S. 

ill  (low  at 
u  Jind  in 
'  women 
\iiig  into 
ires  they 

painted 
ir  scarlet 
iitinnally 
fere  and 
•liceman. 

lievy  of 
smoothly 
s  swiftly 
I  his  tray 
»op,     He 

we  must 
'lains  of 
:  Quebec 
a  battle- 
turf,  and 
ble  that 
',  or  that 

3cted  on 
I  bronze 
eloquent 

!C.      Kut 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


107 


perhaps  the  most  attractive  one  is  that  to  Montmorency 
Falls,  through  the  village  of  |{eau[)ort.  When  we  are 
at  some  little  distan(!e  from  Quebec,  the  driver  ixiints 
backward  with  his  whip,  saying,  "  Heliold  the  silver 
city  I  "  We  hastily  turn  and  see  what  appears  indeed  a 
silver  city.  The  afternoon  sun  shines  brightly  on  the 
stee[),  tin  roofs  and  causes  them  to  appear  like  molten 
silver. 

The  till  roofs  throughout  Canada  have  really  a  charm- 
ing effect.  Ex[)osnre  to  tlie  weather  changes  them  to 
tints  of  steel  gray  and  grayish  green,  with  patches  of 
dark  brown  wherever  the  rust  gathers.  Under  the 
strong  sunlight,  the  roofs  at  a  distance  have  the  effect 
of  gold  or  silver. 

And  now,  after  passing  a  stretch  of  fields  and  wood- 
lands, we  draw  near  the  fall  of  Montmorency.  It  is 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and,  on  account  of  its 
extreme  narrowness,  it  seems  even  higher.  It  is  not 
so  grand  as  Niagara,  because  it  does  not  compare  with 
it  in  size  ;  but  it  is  much  more  beautiful.  A  bright, 
foamy  cloud,  that  glints  and  gleams  in  the  sunlight, 
and  appears  of  a  lovely  cream  tint,  —  this  is  Mont- 
morency. Firs  and  spruces  stand  on  the  summit  of 
the  cliff.  Wild  flowers  border  the  banks.  The  whole 
effect  of  the  fall  is  so  beautiful  that  the  idea  of  its 
great  power  hardly  enters  the  mind  ;  but  it  is  a  fact  that 
the  water  power  generated  here  is  used  to  create  the 
electric  current  which  lights  the  city  of  Quebec  eight 
miles  away. 


^  -v^^^fe^Hj 


i' 


108 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


(^ 


CHAPTER  IX. 
FRENCH   CANADIAN   FAKM    LIFK. 

The  province  of  Quebec  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and 
tlie  chief  occupation  of  the  people  living  outside  the 
cities  is  fiuniing.  Nearly  idl  the  fui'nicrs  are  the 
descendants  of  the  early  French  settlers,  and  they 
retain,  in  a  remarkable  degree,  the  ancient  customs  of 
working  and  living. 

The  farmers  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  are  near 
the  United  States,  and,  inllucnced  by  that  countiy,  have 
adopted  some  of  the  modern  improvements  in  farming. 
But  the  settlers  north  of  the  St.  Lawrence  receive  no 
such  favorable  influence,  and  plod  along  in  their  slow 
and  patient  way,  exactly  as  their  ancestors  did  two 
hundred  years  ago. 

From  Montreal  down  to  the  sea,  with  the  single 
exception  of  the  large  towns,  French  is  spoken.  Eng- 
lish is  almost  an  unknown  tongue.  Passing  through 
the  country  one  sees  and  hears  only  the  legends,  songs, 
superstitions,  and  customs  of  the  Norman  peasant  of 
the  time  of  Louis  XIV.,  the  great  monarch  of  France 
in  the  seventeenth  centur}^ 

French  Canada  might  be  described  as  two  continuous 
villages,  extending  along  the  northern  and  southern 
shoi'es  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  belts  from  two  to  ten 
miles  wide.  The  farms  near  the  river  were  once  very 
large,  but,  owing  to  the  custom  of  dividing  the  land  for 
each  generation,  they  have  dwindled  considerably.    The 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


lot) 


rtile,  and 
itside  the 
iiro  tlie 
and  they 
istonis  of 

[•  are  near 
itry,  have 

farming, 
ticeive  no 
heir  slow 

di^l  two 

lie  single 
!n.  Kng- 
;  through 
ds,  songs, 
easant  of 
)f  France 

intinuous 
southern 
,0  to  ten 
mce  very 
3  land  for 
bly.    The 


Canadian  farm  of  to-day  is  I)nt  a  small  fraction  of  the 
ani[)le  acivs  of  former  times. 

As  each  son  wished  to  have  the  land  which  fell  to 
him  boi'dcr  on  both  the  road  and  the  river,  the  original 
farms  have  been  divided  lengthwise.  So  the  present 
Canadian  farm  is  a  very  narrow  stri[)  of  land,  consisting 
of  marsh,  meadow,  pasture,  and  forest  land,  with  the 
river  and  the  road  at  opi)osite  ends. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  colony  the  river  was  the 
chief  means  of  communication  between  the  straggling 
settlements.  For  boats  in  sunnncr,  and  foi'  sleighs  or 
skates  in  winter,  the  St.  Lawrence  formed  at  every 
se;uson  an  easy  highway  from  })lace  to  2)lace.  I'^ven  now, 
in  this  nineteenth  century,  the  ice  on  the  river  is  the 
best  of  roads  in  winter. 

The  houses  are  situated  near  the  road,  several  hun- 
dred feet  apart.  In  shape  and  general  appearance,  the 
Canadian  farmhouse  resembles  the  houses  in  the  city  of 
Quebec.  It  has  low  walls  of  stone  or  wood,  and  high, 
steep  roofs  projecting  over  the  walls  in  gentle,  U2)ward 
curves.  There  are  dormer  windows  in  the  roofs,  and  a 
huge  chimney  at  each  end  of  the  house.  Sometimes 
there  is  a  winding  staircase  outside  the  liouse,  whicli, 
more  than  anything  else,  gives  a  foreign  look  to  the 
building. 

The  house  is  rarely  without  a  broad  piazza,  which  is 
shaded  by  vines,  and  forms  a  delightfully  cool  place, 
where  the  farmer  can  rest  after  his  day's  work.  The 
only  disadvantage  to  this  vine-covered  piazza  is  that  it 
darkens  the  rooms  within.  Heavy  shutters  hang  at  the 
windows,  and  are  always  closed  at  night.     This  makes 


H 


110 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


triivi'liii},'  at  nifi;lit  very  flilliciilt,  tor  llicro  are  no  giiid- 
iiij^  ravH  of  light  tliruwii  Iroiii  the  coUages  upon  tlie 
(lark  road. 

The  rooms  are  very  l<^\v.  'I'he  roufjli  hoard  Hoors  are 
uncariu'ted,  except  in  the  parhir.  There  a  eariu't  of 
eolored  raj's  gives  a  pieturesijue  look  to  the  homely 
interior. 

The  parlor  is  furnished  with  two  large  heds  curtained 
with  l)lue  and  white  cheeked  linen.  A  few  chairs  and 
a  hureau  stand  against  the  wall,  which  is  adorned  with 
brightly  colored  pictures  of  the  l*ope  and  the  Holy 
Family.  A  hottle  of  holy  water,  with  a  sprig  of  spruce, 
liangs  against  the  wall.  The  farmer's  wife  sprinkles  the 
sheets  with  holy  water  before  the  family  go  to  bed. 

'i'he  living  room  is  also  used  for  a  hedroom,  for  one 
shadowy  corner  of  the  room  is  filled  by  the  tall,  cur- 
tained French  bed.  A  wooden  bench  for  a  sofa, -rush- 
bottomed  chairs,  and  a  plain  i)ine  table  conqjlete  the 
*'n.  ishing  of  the  living  room.  A  black  cross  on  the 
wall  is  its  only  ornament.  A  highly  polished  cooking 
stove,  situated  in  a  partition  between  the  parlor  and 
the  living  room,  heats  them  both. 

In  most  cases  the  barns  are  low  buildings  with  over- 
hanging, thatched  eaves.  In  these  barns  are  stored  all 
the  produce  of  the  farm,  and  the  cattle  and  horses  are 
lioused  here  (hiring  the  winter.  The  French  Canadians 
are  very  proud  of  their  horses  and  take  great  care  of 
them  ;  but  they  pay  very  little  attention  to  their  cattle, 
which  are  often  so  miserably  housed  and  so  jjoorly  fed 
during  the  winter  that  many  of  them  die. 

The  Frencli  Canadian  farmer  is  a  short,  sturdy,  mus- 


a 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


Ill 


IK)  j,'iii(l- 
ipon  lliu 

loors  are 

ar[K't  of 

lioiiiL'ly 

iirtiiiiiL'd 
liiii's  iiiid 
umI  with 
Hi  Holy 
f  spruce, 
ikles  the 

)0(1. 

for  one 
all,  cur- 
fa,  -rush- 
lete  the 

on  the 
cookiii}^ 
•lor  and 

itli  over- 
tored  all 
irses  are 
madians 
care  of 
r  cattle, 
orly  fed 

iy,  mus- 


(iular  fellow.  lie  is  as  toiij^li  as  iioii,  and  can  stan<l 
any  amount  of  exposure  to  rain  and  frost,  heat  and  cold. 
The  expression  of  his  face  is  dull,  hut  ^ood-natured. 
The  farmer's  wife  is  also  short  and  plain,  and  appears 
dull,  'i'he  youn^f  ;^'irls  are  neither  pretty  nor  hrijrlit, 
hut  they  are  healthy,  (piiet,  an<l  contented.  The  chi. 
dren  alone  are  pretty.  They  are  like  little  cheruhs, 
with  their  beautiful  dark  hrowu  eyes  and  their  plump, 
rosy  cheeks. 

The  families  of  the  French  Canadians  are  larj^e. 
(jienerally  the  dear,  old,  wrinkled,  toothless  jrrandfather 
and  graiulniother  live  with  their  son  and  his  wife  and 
ten  children.  Fourteen  [jcople  are  stowed  away  in  the 
three  rooms  of  the  farmhouse. 

The  farmer  is  dressed  in  hlue  or  gray  homespun,  with 
a  sash  around  his  waisi.  lie  wears  moccasins  of  cow- 
hide on  his  feet,  and,  until  very  recently,  his  head  was 
covered  by  the  pointed,  tasseled  ca^)  that  the  toboggan- 
ers have  adopted  as  part  of  their  club  dress. 

The  farmer's  wife  also  wears  homespMU.  Her  outside 
garment  is  a  long,  old-fashioned  cloak,  which  reaches 
down  to  her  feet.  When  .she  works  in  the  Held  or  goes 
tf)  market,  she  weai-s  a  wide-brimmed  hat  of  coarse, 
braided  straw,  and  a  pair  of  wooden  shoes.  The  shoes 
are  exactly  like  those  worn  by  the  Normandy  peasants 
of  the  present  day. 

The  spring's  work  of  the  Canadian  farmer  begins  in 
May.  From  the  tenth  to  the  fifteenth  of  the  month  all 
hands  on  the  farm  are  busily  engaged  in  ploughing  and 
harrowing  the  soil. 

The  phnigh  is  a  very  ancient-looking  object.     It  con- 


'^. 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE 


112 


sists  of  11  lu'iivy  iM'iim  with  oim  fiid  siipportcil  on  a  ptiir 
of  wliccls.  iiiid  is  ('niuii  hy  ii  yoke  of  oxen.  Tlic,  oxen 
(•icc|)  ovcc  the  ^rouml  so  slowly  lli;il  ol'tcii  a  jiorsi'  is 
liitclicd  iH'foic  tlifiM  to  </\\v  tliciii  u'ivat<'r  s|icf(l.  To  an 
observer  it  ai.|ieiirs  iis  il'  the  oxen  drew  the  |ilou<,di.  and 
the  hoise  the  oxen. 

After  the  land  is  ploiiuji,.,!  it  is  still  more  hn.ken  Uj. 
Ity  lh(!  harrow,  which  is  often  nothing'  l)ut  a  ^neat 
s|ii  ni'e  Itouj^di  tliat  is  draj,fjfed  over  the  ^v I  l)y  oxen. 

Then  eonies  the  i)lantinfr.  IJiit  hefoi'e  any  seeds  can 
he  laid  in  the  ^rround  they  innst  he  blessed  by  the 
villap'  priest.  On  St.  Mark's  day  the  fanners  biinj,^ 
umdfnls  of  ^idin  to  clinreh.  'I'he  jTmin  is  p,,ured  into 
the  font  and  sprinkled  with  holy  water  and  blessed.  As 
eaeh  peasant  leaves  the  eluireh,  he  takes  a  liandfnl  of 
the  seed  from  the  font  and  reverently  mixi-s  it  with  the 
jfrain  at  home.  lie  believes  that  his  harvest  will  be  the 
lar^'er  and  rieher  for  this  early  blessintf  of  tlui  ^'rain. 

The  chief  event  in  .Inly  is  the  hayinj,'.  This  takes 
place  in  the  miildle  or  last  part  of  the  month.  The 
whole  family  work  in  the  field,  tlu'  women  and  children 
toiling-  side  by  side  with  the  men.  Mowinjjf  machines 
and  horserakes  are  unknown  noith  of  the  St.  Lawience. 
All  the  hard,  laborious  work  must  be  done  by  the  brown 
hands  of  the  [)easants.  The  fjfrass  is  cnt  with  the  scytlie. 
The  women  spread  the  mown  grass  out  to  dry,  aud  turn 
it,  when  partly  dried,  fiom  one  side  to  the  otiier.  The 
hay  is  at  lenjrth  piled  ui)on  the  heavy,  j)onderous,  wooden 
carts  and  wheeled  away  into  the  barns. 

In  liarvest  time  tlie  women  and  children  are  again  in 
the  lields.     The  women  take  their  share  in  the  reaping, 


a 

s 
s 

11 

o 
il 
n 
o 

c 

1 

0 

e 
ri 

si 

81 

tl 
h 

a 

g 
h 

T 

C( 

pi 
m 

S- 

l>i 
re 

tt 


.v«l»*l«B».W-iK' 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


118 


>ii  ii  |)!iir 

'lu!   (IXCII 

linrsc  is 

I'll  an 

i^Hi.  and 

■okcii  ui) 
a  ^nvat 
y  oxi'ii, 
I't'ds  can 
[  Uy  tlui 
i-s  hiinjf 
it'd  into 
^(■d.  As 
iidFul  of 
rtith  till! 
II  be  the 
rain, 
is  takes 
li.  The 
iihildrcn 
laehines 
iwivncc. 
u  hrowii 
scythe. 
lUd  turn 
r.  The 
wooden 

igaiu  in 
reaping, 


iuid  with  their  short,  hlue,  honiosptin  skirts  and  hroad 
shade  hats,  they  are  |)ietnres(inu  sights  as  they  wield  the 
sickU's.  S(»nie  kneel  to  their  work  ;  others  cronch  or 
hcnd  low.  Aided  l»y  the  childri'n,  they  sjiriNid  the  grain 
over  the  gronnd  to  dry,  turn  it,  and  linally  hind  it 
into  sheaves.  They  are  so  careful  and  economical  that 
not  a  head  of  grain  is  left  upon  the  ground  at  the  eloso 
of  the  harvesting. 

In  some  regions  of  Canada  this  busiest  of  seasons  M 
closed  hy  a  merrymaking  called  the  "Festival  of  the 
Big  Sheaf."  On  the  last  load  of  grain  is  laid  one  sheaf 
of  unusual  size,  known  as  the  Big  Sheaf.  This  is  an 
emblem  of  abmidance.  The  youths  and  maidens,  deco- 
rated with  heads  of  grain,  walk  on  each  side  of  the  cart, 
singing  national  airs. 

When  they  arrive  at  the  owner's  house,  the  eldest 
son,  followed  by  the  rest  of  the  merrymakei-s,  enteiy 
the  chief  room,  where  the  farmer  himself  sits  in  his 
large  armchair.  In  one  hand  the  son  carries  a  sheaf 
decorated  with  ribbons;  in  the  other,  a  decanter  and  a 
gliuss.  He  advances  to  his  father,  congratuhites  him  on 
his  good  harvest,  wishes  him  as  successful  a  one  each 
year,  and  ofi'ers  him  a  glass  of  brandy.  The  rest  of  the 
company  are  then  served  with  brandy,  after  which  they 
l)ass  into  an  adjoining  room,  where  a  bountiful  supi)er  of 
mutton,  milk,  and  i)ancakes  with  maple  syrup,  is  served. 

The  old-fashioned  Hail  is  generally  used  for  thrashing. 
Some  farmers,  with  a  little  tolerance  for  modern  im- 
provements, use  a  thrashing  machine,  driven  either  by  a 
rough  water  mill  or  by  a  patient  little  pony.  The  pony 
toils  away  while  his  master  sits  idly  by  on  the  fence. 


114 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


M 


Till'  wiiiiinwiii^  (tl"  tlio  j^niiii,  l)y  wliicli  llio  kciiiols 
arc  H('|iiiniti'(l  from  tlu'  cluilT,  is  duiu'  witli  a  larj,M'  Ian, 
on  wliicli  the  ^'iiiiii  is  losscd  nj)  and  (l(»\vn  until  tlie 
cliatY,  wliioh  i«  tliu  li^lit  Imsk  covi'iiuj,'  tlu!  kcrnrl,  is 
blown  away.  One  twenty  sixth  of  tlif  pun;  j,'rain  is 
^riven  to  till'  piii'si.  This  is  llio  way  the  peasants  pay 
thoir  cliuiili  dues. 

The  {,'min  is  next  jjround  into  Hour.  When  bread  is 
beinj,'  made  from  the  tlour,  the  farmer's  wife  prays  that 
the  yeast  may  rise,  ami,  last  of  all,  ujion  the  hjaf  she 
marks  a  cross.  Thus  the  Canadian  peasants  are  contin- 
ually reminded,  in  the  midst  t)f  their  toil  for  food,  that 
after  all  it  is  (fod  who  ^ives  them  their  daily  bread. 

In  the  winter  time  many  of  tlie  farmeis  join  the  lum- 
bermen in  their  work.  Lumberinf,'  is  paid  for  in  ready 
money,  which  is  very  welcome  to  the  farmer.  Winter 
is  the  slack  season  on  the  farm;  and,  as  the  y-oke  of 
oxen  or  span  f)f  horses  he  may  take  with  him  to  the 
hnnbcrinj,'  camp  is  well  paid  for,  three  months  in  the 
woods  are  always  prolitabh;. 

It  is  said  that,  hard  as  a  farmer  is  oblijjfed  to  work  in 
the  United  States,  his  wife  always  works  harder.  And 
this  is  equally  true  in  Canada.  The  women  toil  from 
four  o'clock  in  the  morninjr  till  eight  at  night. 

The  care  of  their  houses  gives  theuj  very  little 
trouble.  The  houses  are  so  small  and  simply  furni-shed 
that  sweeping  and  dusting  are  very  ea.sy  mattei-s.  The 
broom  is  a  bunch  of  cedar  boughs,  and  the  scrubbing 
l)ru.sh  a  bunch  of  spruce.  The  meals,  too,  are  simply 
prepared,  and  very  few  dishes  are  used. 

The  women,  when  they  are  not  in  the  fields  haying 


■■■'••  — • 


..'r.wi'iJ  »dVi ><>^v'SHSfii'.i.W;>it^ 


1 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


115 


I!   kt'i'iiols 

lUjfC    filll, 

until  tliu 

kt'ini'l,  is 

^niiii   in 

Hiiiits  pay 

Ini'iul  is 
iniys  that 

loaf  she 
re  coiitiii- 
food,  that 
)rt!a(l. 
1  the  luin- 

iii  ready 

Winter 

3  y-()kt'  of 

iin  to  till) 

lis  in  the 

1  work  in 

ler.     And 

toil  from 

ery  little 
furnislii'd 
el's.  The 
scrubbing 
ire  simply 

ds  haying 


or  harvesting,  are  occupied  in  spinning  wool,  weaving 
cl(itli,anil  making  ciutiics  for  their  huge  families.  They 
knit  stockings,  make  tlie  iiomespnn  suits  worn  by  the 
men  and  women,  coblde  rough  hut  serviceable  shoes 
from  hides,  and  braid  hats  of  the  straw  which  they 
tiiemselves  have  chosen  and  prepared.  All  the  artieles 
that  are  not  needed  by  the  family  they  carry  to  market. 

'i'he  garret  is  the  workroom  of  the  farmer's  wife. 
Kvery  material  and  tool  that  she  needs  in  performing 
her  dillicult  tasks  of  tailor,  shoemaker,  and  hatter  is 
found  here.  Skeins  of  yarn,  sides  of  leather,  and  liuu- 
dles  of  straw  lie  about  in  dusky  corners,  ihith  linen 
and  woollen  sheets  are  piled  away  in  a  few  old  chests. 
Some  of  the  sheets  are  fully  one  hundred  years  ohl. 
Two  or  three  spinning  wheels  and  a  htoni  complete  the 
furnishings.  The  room  is  lighted  by  one  small  window 
in  the  roof;  and  with  tht;  rich  brown  shadows  lurking 
in  the  corners  and  playing  upcm  its  (luaiiit  furnishings, 
it  is  a  charming  plac(!. 

Let  us  watidi  a  French  Canadian  family  at  supper. 
Twelve  per-ons  gather  about  a  tabh^  small  enough  for 
four.  A  scpiare  of  oil  eloth  serves  for  a  tablecloth,  and 
in  the  centre  of  the  table  stands  a  tin  pan  lilled  with 
pea  soup  and  small  pieces  of  bread.  Kacdi  member  of 
the  family  sits  sideways  at  the  table,  with  one  arm  and 
shoulder  free  to  move  above  it.  Spoons  are  distributed, 
and  then  the  meal  beirins. 

Each  one  tills  his  spoon  from  the  central  dish,  draws 
it  across  the  edge  of  the  pan,  and  carries  it  to  his  mouth.  • 
It  is  a  curious  sight  to  see  the  advance  Jind  retreat  of 
those  dozen  arms  around  the  pan.     After  the  souj)  has 


"^m 


I 


iii 


i 


m- 


mi 


116 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


been  finishe<l,  a  pan  of  bread  and  milk  is  brougbt  to  tbe 
table.  The  spoons  are  wiped  by  the  mother  npon  a 
towel  laid  across  her  knees.  They  are  then  distributed 
lunvin,  and  the  meal  continues.  If  a  guest  is  present,  a 
separate  dish  is  given  to  him. 

After  supper  the  women  gather  alx  it  a  tiny  lamp 
and  sew  or  knit.  The  men  retire  to  chairs  along  the 
side  of  the  room,  where  they  smoke  and  discuss  harvest 
prospects,  village  gossip,  or  politics.  Just  before  retir- 
ing for  the  night,  the  family  kneel  about  the  room, 
facing  the  large  cross  on  the  wall.  The  mother  repeats 
the  prayers  in  a  rapid,  chanting  tone,  and  the  others 
answer  as  rapidly.  Afterward  each  tells  his  beads 
silently  and  then  goes  to  bed. 

It  is  wonderful,  in  so  small  a  house,  to  see  the  ease 
with  which  beds  are  snunnoned  from  hitherto  unex- 
pected retreats.  Trundle-beds  are  drawn  out  from  be- 
neath large  beds ;  the  cover  of  a  chest  is  thrown  back, 
and  bedding  is  spread  upon  it;  a  bench  opens,  and 
another  bed  stands  revealed.  In  ease  and  com fi  •  the 
family  of  twelve  dispose  themselves  about  the  two 
rooms  and  enjoy  dreamless  sleep,  until  the  slow  gray 
dawning  of  light  in  the  eastern  horizon  arouses  them 
at  four  in  the  morning  to  another  day  of  contented  toil. 
Their  food  is  very  simple  and  has  little  variety  Pork, 
pease,  beans,  maple  syrup,  and  milk  form  the  chief  arti- 
cles of  diet.  Occasionally  the  Canadian  peasant  will 
catch  fish  in  the  river,  or  shoot  wild  fowl.  The  garden 
may  yield  a  few  vegetables,  or  the  tield  some  berries ; 
but  tliese  luxuries  are  rarely  enjoyed  by  the  family. 
They  are  carried,  instead,  to  the  nearest  city  and  sold. 


u 


"-  ■-'-mmms^mrsm^. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


117 


)rought  to  the 
lother  upon  a 
en  (Ustributed 
it  is  present,  a 

;  a  tiny  lamp 
airs  along  the 
liscuss  harvest 
t  before  retir- 
Dut  the  room, 
nother  repeats 
uul  the  others 
ells   his   beads 

0  see  the  ease 
hitherto  unex- 

1  out  from  be- 
i  thrown  back, 
ch  opens,  and 
id  comfi  '  the 
ibout   the    two 

the  slow  gray 
I  aronses  them 

contented  toil, 
variety  Pork, 
1  the  chief  arti- 
m  peasant  will 
1.  The  garden 
I  some  berries; 
by  the  family, 
city  and  sold. 


On  Sunday  morning  the  roads  leading  to  the  village 
church  are  alive  witli  all  kinds  of  vehicles.  There  is 
the  old-fashioned  hayrack,  drawn  by  one  lean  hoi-se, 
with  chairs  set  in  it  for  passengers ;  there  is  tlie  familiar 
caleche ;  and  last,  and  by  no  means  least,  tlie  buck- 
board.  This  vehicle  consists  of  a  long,  elastic  plank, 
sup[)orted  by  a  pair  of  wheels  at  each  end,  and  is  well 
adai)ted  to  carrying  a  heavy  load  over  tlie  rough  hills 
of  Quebec. 

It  is  considered  impolite  for  carriages  to  pass  on  the 
road,  and  each  farmer  drives  at  a  lapid  pace  in  order 
not  to  Itlock  the  way  for  his  neighbors.  Thus,  uncon- 
sciously quickening  their  pace,  the  result,  as  they  draw 
near  the  church,  is  a  run.  In  coi\trast  to  the  staid, 
sleepy  progress  to  church  of  the  Yankee  fariuers,  the 
French  Canadians  .appear  to  be  running  a  steeple  chase. 
Their  horses  race  madly  up  and  down  the  hills,  furi- 
ously jolting  the  people  in  the  carriages  behind. 

When  the  farmer  reaches  the  church  door,  he  becomes 
his  risual  quiet  self  again.  The  women  immediately 
enter  the  church  to  pray  before  the  service  begins,  but 
the  men  stand  in  groups  about  the  door.  This  is  the 
time  when  most  of  the  village  news  is  exchanged,  and 
business  arrangements  made. 

At  length  the  pleasant  chat  is  interrupted  l)y  the  con- 
stable, a  pompous  officer  in  a  red  scarf,  who  comes  out 
upon  thft  church  steps  and  addresses  the  crowd.  "  Come 
in,"  he  says,  "  tlie  mass  begins."  The  men  obey  at  once, 
for  the  constable  could  arrest  any  one  who  wiis  absent 
from  mass. 

The  church  is  a  substantial  structure,  and  within  is 


%^j 


■Arrv 


118 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE, 


j)lainl)-  finished  in  pino.  In  some  cases  the  innsical  in- 
sti'unient  is  a  hand  organ,  and  the  same  tunes  succeed 
one  another  in  reguhir  order. 

The  scene  after  church  is  livelier  than  the  one  before 
church.  The  town-crier,  a  man  of  huge  lungs  and 
ready  tongue,  collects  a  crowd  about  him.  aiul  proceeds 
to  make  the  weekly  announcements.  First  come  the 
new  county  or  village  laws,  the  road  master's  notices, 
and  the  sheritl"s  sales ;  then  follow  more  private  an- 
nouncements. Lt)st  articles,  places  of  auctions,  and  the 
opening  of  new  stores  are  cried. 

Sometimes  a  pig  or  cow  is  sold  for  some  one  who 
wishes  to  give  money  to  the  church.  On  rare  occasions, 
the  crier  closes  his  si)eecli  by  saying  that  the  jiarish  has 
an  i)isurance  policy  to  pay  to  Monsieur  So-and-so. 

The  men  of  the  parish  insure  themselves  against  fire, 
by  each  one  agreeing  to  provide  a  few  logs  and  an' after- 
noon's labor  to  any  one  who  loses  his  house  by  fire. 
They  obtain  the  priest's  permission  to  work  Sunday 
afternoon,  and  by  nightfall,  are  generally  able  to  raise 
a  rude  log  house  and  barn  in  the  place  of  the  charred 
remains  of  the  former  home. 

The  French  Canadian  peasants  are  one  of  the  most 
economical  classes  of  people  in  the  world.  The  fanner 
and  his  wife  and  children  generally  do  all  the  woik 
themselves,  although  help  can  be  hired  very  cheaply 
indeed.  The  wages  of  a  man  are  from  eighty  to  one 
hundred  dollars  a  year,  —  for  a  woman  just  one-fourth 
as  much. 

Most  of  the  necessities  of  life  are  oltained  by  barter. 
A  farmer  who  has  more   maple  sugar  than   he   needs. 


W^''"''-*^m 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS 


119 


'.isical  in- 
5  succeed 

ne  before 
iiiigs  and 
proceeds 
come  the 
s  notices, 
riviite  aii- 
■i,  and  the 

one  who 
occasions, 
)arish  lias 
-so. 

;ainst  fire, 
I  an"  after- 
e  by  fire, 
c  Sunday 
3  to  raise 
e  charred 

the  most 
he  farmer 
the  woik 
y  cheaply 
ty  to  one 
)ne-fourth 

by  barter, 
he  needs, 


exchanges  a  part  of  it  for  a  leg  of  his  neighbor's  mutton 
or  a  peck  of  his  jiotatocs.  Trallic  in  wliich  goods  them- 
selves are  exchanged  is  called  barter. 

A  farmer  in  Canada  can  bring  up  a  large  family  of 
children  with  an  annual  expense  of  but  one  hundred 
dollars.  II'  he  is  able  to  lay  by  a  yearly  [)ro(it  of  one 
hundred  dollars,  he  is  considered  to  be  very  pros[)erous. 
One  peasant  woman  raised  a  family  of  sixteen  chil- 
dren with  only  one  paper  of  pins  and  a  catechism,  ilow 
careful  they  were  of  that  paper  of  pins  I  The  scarity 
rows  were  eked  out  with  thorns,  and  with  pins  left  by 
visitors.  After  the  sixteen  had  arrived  at  years  of  dis- 
cretion, the  catechism  was  found  clean  enough  to  be  sold. 

The  wedding  trousseau  of  a  grandmother,  consisting 
of  a  pair  of  cotton  stockings,  a  pair  of  "store  shoes," 
and  a  calico  frock,  often  figures  in  the  wedding  outfit 
of  a  granddaughter.  The  original  garments  have  been 
most  carefully  cherished  through  the  fifty  years  between 
the  two  weddings. 

The  days  of  the  French  Canadians  are  spent  in  toiling 
for  the  bare  necessities  of  food  and  clothing.  They 
have  no  interesting  books,  no  lieautiful  i)ictures,  nothing 
rich  or  lovely  among  their  surroundings.  They  are  not 
interested  in  the  people  of  other  countries,  in  the  events 
of  the  day,  or  in  any  of  the  great  ideas  of  this  century. 

Tliey  think  merely  of  the  objects  that  they  use  in 
daily  life,  —  the  plough,  the  spade,  the  spinning  wheel. 
And  so  their  lives  must  be  narrow  and  poor.  Still 
they  are  a  worthy  people.  They  are  kindly  and  con- 
tented, and  perform  their  humdrum  tasks  with  much 
patient  faithfulness. 


120 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE, 


CHAPTER  X. 


TIIK  LUMBKKMAN'S    LIFE. 


We  liave  read  of  the  life  of  the  Canadian  fisherman, 
of  liis  toilsome  days,  and  the  many  dangers  of  the  deep 
by  which  his  life  is  threatened;  now  let  us  look  at 
the  life  of  the  Canadian  lumberman.  His  life,  like  the 
fisherniairs,  is  filled  with  weary,  toilsome  days,  scanty 
joys,  and  dangers  nearly  as  perilous  as  those  of  the  sea. 

The  Ottawa  IJiver  which,  as  you  remember,  is  a 
northern  tributary  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  rises  among 
forests.  These  forests  of  pine,  fir,  and  other  trees, 
stretch  away  westward  for  a  thousand  miles.  They 
constitute  the  great  forest  region  of  Canada,  which 
extends  from  the  foamy  waters  of  the  upper  Ottawa  to 
clear  Lake  Winnipeg  in  Manitoba. 

These  forests  are  very  old.  A  mere  glance  at  the 
height  and  size  of  the  trees  makes  it  plain  that  for 
hundreds  and  hundreds  of  years  they  have  continued 
their  silent,  steady  growth. 

It  is  only  within  the  last  forty  yeare  that  this  region 
has  been  explored.  For  generations  the  forest  life  was 
undisturbed.  The  trees  leafed  out  in  the  si)ring  and 
blossomed  in  the  summer.  In  the  autumn  there  were 
miles  and  miles  of  unseen  beauty  in  the  red  leaves  of 
the  oak,  the  rich  yellow  of  the  maple,  and  the  delicate 
lemon  of  the  birch ;  in  the  winter  the  heavy  snf)w 
weighed  down  the  plumy  branches  of  the  many  ever- 
green trees,  —  the  pine,  hemlock,  spruce,  and  fir. 


'M^^f^WM^" 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


121 


ishernian, 
the  deep 
i  look  at 
i,  like  the 
rs,  seaiity 
f  the  sea. 
iber,  is  u 
:>s  anion jT 
ler  trees, 
s.  They 
la,  which 
)tta\va  to 

ce  at  the 

that  for 

3ontinued 

liis  region 
t  life  was 
)ring  and 
liere  were 
leaves  of 
3  delicate 
ivy  snow 
any  ever- 
1  iir. 


Mountain  streams  roared  past  the  roots  of  the  fjiiint 
pines  on  their  Imnks.  Lukes  mirrored  the  slender 
birches  in  their  unriillied  waters.  IMnes  risincr  tier 
iibove  tier  marshalled  their  ranks  al)i)nt  mountains 
wliic'h  no  man's  foot  had  even-  crossed.  'I'lie  woodland 
silence  was  only  occasionally  broken  by  the  stealthy 
tread  of  the  black  bear  and  tin;  scream  of  the  eatrle. 

Hut  to-day  these  woods  are  the  scene  of  busy,  active 
life,  and  are  the  means  by  which  large  sums  of  gold  are 
brought  into  the  coffers  of  the  nation.  The  foivsts  in 
the  Northeast  and  Northwest  Territories  arc  controlled 
by  the  Dominion  government;  tho.se  in  the  provinces 
by  the  provincial  governments. 

The  forests  are  divided  into  what  are  called  timber 
limits.  Each  of  these  is  ten  miles  sijuarc.  The  owners 
of  sawmills  and  speculators  hire  timber  limits  for  the 
season.  TJiey  pay  the  government,  whetlier  general  or 
provincial,  a  certain  sum  of  money,  and  agiee,  in  addi- 
tion, to  pay  duty  on  every  log  that  is  cut. 

After  the  timber  limit  is  secured,  a  band  of  five  or  six 
men  are  sent  to  ascertain  the  amount  and  value  of  the 
timber  of  the  limit,  to  choose  the  place  for  the  camp, 
and  to  exi)lore  the  whole  limit,  particularly  noting  the 
])osition  and  availability  of  the  lakes  and  streams. 
Such  a  ta,sk  is  called  prosi)ecting. 

The  exi)lorers  pass  through  the  timber  limit,  blazing 
the  trees  to  mark  out  the  future  roads.  They  indicate 
the  places  for  the  future  cam[)s  and  rollways,  and,  in 
short,  lay  out  the  plan  for  the  winter  campaign.  Their 
work  is  exceedingly  inipoitant,  and  they  are  well  paid 
for  their  services.     They  carry  guns,  and   the   rough 


122 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


\  h 


picnic  life  with  its  opportunitios   for  hunting  is  thor- 
oughly enjoyed. 

The  dillicnlt  part  of  their  enterprise  is  to  find  spots 
whence  an.  extensive  observation  may  he  obtained. 
Whenever  it  is  possible,  one  of  tlie  party  climbs  a  tall 
pine  on  a  hillside  and  surveys  tlie  country. 

In  the  fall  tlie  lumbermen,  with  tlieir  horses,  oxen, 
sleighs,  wagons,  and  provisions,  set  out  for  the  timber 
limit.  The  depots  and  various  stations  on  the  route 
are  thoroughly  alive. 

Everywhere  is  seen  the  sun-browned  young  lumber- 
man, tall  and  graceful  as  an  Intlian,  and  gay  and  talka- 
tive as  a  Frenchman.  Tie  has  usually  several  bright 
touches  to  his  costume,  and  i<  very  fond  of  red.  Now 
he  wears  a  red  scarf,  now  a  red  vest,  and  now  boots  with 
red  tops,  which  with  a  white  kerchief  tied  about  his 
sunburned  throat,  gives  him  a  very  gallant  appearance. 

The  fii'st  thing  to  be  done  after  reacliing  the  timber 
limit  is  to  erect  the  shanty,  or  camp,  for  the  men  and 
the  stixble  for  the  horses.  The  shanty  is  a  large,  oblong 
building  with  walls  and  low-pitched  roof  made  of  logs. 
In  one  side  a  doorway  is  cut,  and  a  door  of  heavy  tim- 
ber is  hung  in  place.  All  crevices  are  carefully  stuffed 
with  moss  or  hay,  to  make  tlie  shanty  tight  against  the 
cold  winds  of  winter. 

The  floor  is  of  l)oards.  Near  the  centre  of  the  shanty 
are  four  posts  which  support  the  roof.  On  the  ground 
between  these  posts,  the  great  camp  fire  is  built.  There 
is  no  chimney,  but  the  smoke  passes  out  through  a  large, 
square  opening  cut  in  the  roof  directly  over  the  fire- 
place, which  is  compactly  built  of  earth  and  stones. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


123 


r  is  tlior- 

ind  s))ots 
obtained, 
ubs  a  tall 

3es,  oxen, 
le  timber 
the  route 

g  luinbor- 
iiul  talka- 
•al  bright 
n\.  Now 
)0()ts  with 
about  his 
learance. 
lie  timber 
men  and 
re,  olilong 
le  of  logs, 
leavy  tim- 
lly  stuffed 
gainst  the 

;he  shanty 
le  ground 
it.  There 
gh  a  large, 
r  the  fire- 
tones. 


Tlie  furniture  is  of  the  seantiest.  On  three  sides  of 
the  room  the  bunks  are  arranged  in  rows,  one  above  the 
other;  on  the  fourth  side  is  the  cook's  table.  Two 
strong  wooden  cranes  from  which  are  suspended  the 
pots  and  kettles  of  the  camp,  stand  at  two  corners  of 
the  fireplace. 

Next  a  rollway  is  prepared.  Some  hillside  close  by 
a  river  or  lake  is  selected.  Its  surface  is  thoi-oughly 
examined,  and  all  obstacles  or  obstructions  which  mitrht 
])revent  any  object  from  rolling  easily  down  the  slope 
are  removed.  Here  the  logs  are  to  be  stored  until  the 
time  of  the  spring  freshet,  when  the  river  carries  them 
down  to  the  sawmill. 

When  these  preliminaries  are  settled,  the  actual  work 
begins.  Before  dawn  the  uien,  anywhere  in  number 
from  twenty  to  eiglity,  are  called  by  the  foreman.  They 
feed  the  cattle,  and,  after  a  warm  breakfast,  harness  tlie 
horses  and  yoke  the  oxen,  and  set  off  for  the  scene  of 
the  day's  labor. 

Here  stands  a  giant  pine.  Two  men  attack  it  with 
their  axes  on  opposite  sides,  and  the  great  chips  begin 
to  fly.  The  accuracy  of  the  men  is  wonderful.  Rarely 
does  each  successive  stroke  vary  a  hair's  breadth  from 
the  first.  Sharp  and  clear  sounds  every  death-blow 
dealt  to  the  patriarch  of  the  forest. 

The  trunk  is  nearly  severed ;  the  tree  bends  and 
rocks ;  the  axmeu  spring  aside ;  and  now,  with  a 
mighty  crash,  carrying  with  it  in  its  fall  (luantitles  of 
lesser  growth  which  for  yeai's  it  has  sheltered  under  its 
branches,  the  monarch  tree  is  down.  The  life  of  cen- 
turies is  destroyed  in  an  hour. 


124 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


Ill 


The  branclics  are  ivinovrd,  iuul  tlitiii  tlio  trunk  is  cut 
into  logs  l)y  tlio  siiwyors.  Next  it  is  liaiiliMl  to  tins 
rollway. 

(lencrally  one  \o^  is  (''non<,'li  for  a  sled,  l)ut  sometimes 
two  or  tliree  are  ciiained  to  it.  A  very  large  jtieee  is 
drawn  hy  eij^lit  or  ten  horses  i'asteneil  to  a  douhle  sled. 
Sometimes  onl}'  one  sled  is  used,  and  then  part  of  the 
loi;  is  draiTLTt'd  on  the  snow. 

Often  the  road  to  the  landing  is  far  from  level.  In 
this  ease  what  is  called  a  gallery  road  is  eonstrueted. 
Logs  iiiv  driven  lirndy  into  the  hillside,  and  are  covered 
solidly  with  earth  and  stones.  Thus  an  artitieial  road 
is  made  over  which  the  teamster  drives,  in  easy  curves, 
securely  down  the  slope,  although  the  steep  hill  rises 
upon  one  side,  and  the  precipice  yawns  on  the  other. 

When  the  road  is  exceedingly  abrupt  in  its  descent, 
another  method  is  resorted  to.  A  strong  rope  is  fastened 
to  the  sli'd.  and  also  to  a  sturdy  tree  on  the  summit  of 
the  hill.  As  the  team  descends  the  hillside,  the  rope  is 
let  out  from  above  until  horses,  log,  and  driver  reach 
the  bottom  in  safety. 

When  the  logs  are  unloaded  at  the  rollway,  they 
receive  two  marks,  —  one,  the  mark  of  the  owner,  the 
other,  the  mark  of  their  value. 

The  logs  which  are  to  become  square  timber  gc 
through  a  further  prf)cess  in  the  woods.  After  the  saw- 
yers have  finished  their  task,  the  logs  are  handed  over 
to  the  hewers,  who,  with  their  broadaxcs,  s([uare  the 
luige  sticks.  IJeams  for  building  purposes  are  made  in 
this  way.  The  square  timber  is  not  carried  to  the  roll- 
way. 


h 

A 


a 
e 
d 
n 

r( 
'1 

n 

si 
n 
h 

SI 

b 

si 

b 

a 
a 

P 

fi 

tl 

1' 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


125 


ink  is  out 
mI  to  tho 

lonu'timos 
^  [iie(!i!  is 
ul>lo  sIcmI. 
lit  of  the 

level.  In 
iistnicted. 
V  covered 
iciiil  road 
•*y  (jurves, 
hill  rises 
other. 
!  descent, 
s  fastened 
lunnnit  of 
lie  rope  is 
ver  reach 

vay,  they 
wner,  the 

iniber  go 
r  the  saw- 
ided  over 
[uare  the 
3  made  in 
1  the  roll- 


The  work  of  the  day  is  broken  by  the  noon  ineal, 
whi(di  is  carried  to  tiie  spot  where  tlie  men  are  at  work. 
A  large  lire  is  l)niU,  over  whicii  the  ti'a  is  made.  Tiie 
UunbcrnK!!!  eare  for  neither  sngar  nor  milk  with  tea. 
All  that  they  desire  is  that  this,  their  sole  beverage, 
shonld  be  v(M'y  strong  and  hot. 

After  th(!  meal  a  little  time  is  allowed  for  smoking, 
and  then  the  men  resume  their  work  with  renewed 
energy.  Their  guns  are  near  at  liand,  and  often  a  stray 
deer  is  brought  (U»wn  to  give  variety  to  their  monoto- 
nous bill  of  fare. 

At  sundown  the  men  return  to  the  shanty.  That 
rough  liut  is  a  welcome  sight  to  the  weary  laljorei-s. 
They  (piicken  their  steps  on  coming  in  sight  of  its 
rugged  walls.  'I'iie  snow  is  piled  deep  about  the 
shanty,  and  the  wind  howls  around  its  corners.  Dark 
mountain  pines  stand  grindy  in  the  background,  but  tlie 
house  itself  looks  light  and  warm,  wl.lle  a  eolunni  of 
smoke  rises  from  the  roof.  Plainly  a  hot  supper  is 
being  prepared. 

After  a  hasty  wash  the  men  enter  the  hut  to  beludd  a 
sight  which  gladdens  every  luuigry  heart.  A  huge 
boiler  iilled  with  tea,  and  a  large  pan  of  fried  fat  pork 
are  placed  close  to  tlie  tire.  On  the  cook's  table  stands 
a  dish  of  cold  pork,  a  freshly  baked  loaf  of  bread,  and  a 
pile  of  basins. 

Each  man  helps  himself  to  a  basin,  which  is  promptly 
filled  with  tea;  and  then,  seated  on  a  rude  bench  by 
the  fire,  he  forgets  cold  and  hunger  in  the  delightful 
present. 

After  Slipper,  some  sharpen  their  axes,  while  others 


liiU 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


tell  stories  of  adventure,  siiij^',  or  (lance.  Meiui\sliilo 
the  nioecasins  and  mittens,  hung  up  to  dry  hy  the  lire, 
cast  curious  shadows  on  the  walls  of  the  hut. 

The  outdoor  exercise,  fojlowi'd  l)y  the  liearty  supper 
and  tiie  warmth  of  the  eamplire,  ci''ses  sleepiness.  The 
group  around  the  lire  hroaks  up,  and,  dressed  as  they 
are,  the  men  seek  their  hunks.  Kaeh  wraps  a  hlanket 
ahout  him  aiul  lies  (h)wn,  with  head  to  tiie  wall  and  feet 
to  the  lire,  to  lose  himself  in  dreandess  sleep  on  his  soft, 
elastic  hed  of  pine  houghs.  Truly  "the  sleep  of  the 
lahoring  man  is  sweet." 

Such  is  the  daily  routine,  only  Vcaried  hy  the  visits  of 
the  hush  superintendent  and  of  the  Catholic  priest. 
With  the  coming  of  sjjring  the  teamsters  return  to  their 
lumies.  The  logs,  the  result  of  their  winter's  lahor,  are 
henceforth  in  charge  of  that  class  of  Uunhermen  known 
as  river  drivers. 

The  ice  hreaks  ui),  the  water  of  the  rivers  is  free, 
and  the  sprin,  freshets  hegin.  In  some  eases  the  logs 
liave  Ixicn  piled  uiion  the  frozen  river,  and,  with  the 
breaking  up  of  the  ice,  they  fall  at  once  into  the  swift 
eurrent,  and  are  carried  rajjidly  downstream.  Hut 
oftener  they  are  piled  upon  a  rollway. 

When  the  rollway  is  erected  upon  a  hillside,  the 
drivers  slowly  and  cautiously  impel  the  logs  at  the  foot 
of  the  rollway  toward  the  river.  1'he  upper  logs  pres- 
ently partake  of  the  motion,  and  soon  an  avalanche 
takes  place. 

Carefully  pi-epared  as  the  rollway  may  be,  oftentimes 
some  unforeseen  okstruotion  prevents  a  great  luunber  of 
the  logs  from  rolling  into  the  river.     A   stump  or  a 


s 
e 
u 

o 
a 

ii 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


127 


Iinin\\liilo 
y  tliu  lire, 

ty  suiipcr 
loss.  The 
il  as  they 
a  hhiiiket 

I  iiud  foet 

II  his  soft, 
i[)  of  the 

0  visits  of 
ic  priest, 
n  to  tlieir 
hihor,  are 
sn  known 

"8  is  free, 

the  logs 

with  the 

the  swift 

iin.      Hut 

Iside,  the 
t  the  foot 
logs  pres- 
avahmclie 

)ftentimea 
lumber  of 
imp  or  a 


single  log  may  prevent  the  ih'sircd  movement.  'I'hen 
eomes  tiie  danger;  lor  one  of  the  river  diivers  must 
undertake  the  hazardous  enterprise  of  cutting  away  the 
ohstaele.  When  it  is  lemoved,  the  logs  rusli  (h)wn, 
and  the  man  has  a  eiianee  for  his  life  only  by  diving 
into  the  depths  of  the  stream. 

After  till'  logs  are  launehed,  the  drivers  must  follow 
them;  for  their  responsiliilily  is  not  over  until  the  tim- 
ber is  delivered  at  it,s  linal  destination,  the  sawmill. 
Sometimes  they  follow  the  river  banks,  pushing  off  with 
their  long  poles  the  logs  whieh  may  have  stranded  on 
the  banks  or  in  the  middle  of  the  stream. 

Hut  oftener  the  men  follow  in  light,  tlat-botlomed 
boats.  A  number  of  small  i)oats  are  aceompaided,  when 
j)raetieable,  by  a  large,  covered,  floating  scow,  whieh 
serves  all  the  purposes  of  the  shanty. 

The  greatest  danger  in  tliis  phase  of  lundiering  is  from 
the  logs  lodging  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  and  form- 
ing a  jam.  Under  such  eireumstanees,  the  drivere  show 
wonderful  skill  in  seleeting  and  removing  the  log  whieh 
has  eaused  the  jam,  and  in  avoiding  the  downward  rush 
of  the  logs.  They  spring  like  deer  from  log  to  log,  and 
balance  themselves  as  accurately  as  circus  riders. 

In  shallow  streams  a  system  of  dams  is  constructed 
with  piles  driven  deep  into  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and 
with  gates  arranged  so  as  to  regulate  the  amount  of 
water  passing  through.  The  dam  accumulates  water 
sufficient  to  float  logs  down  to  it,  and  then,  by  means  of 
the  gate,  or  sluice,  the  logs  are  sufl'ered  to  pass,  to- 
gether with  water  enough  to  carry  them  with  a  rush 
some  distance  on  their  course. 


i 


128 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE, 


If  iht'  Htrt'iim  is  very  (luick  iiiid  (liiiimMdUs,  tlu;  lo^a 
art!  liiuiicliftl  ii|)<iii  it  ;iii(l  liiniiMl  nvi-r  tlic  nipitU.  A 
fuw  mo  lnolvfii  into  l'iii<,'iii(!iits  ;  olliors  iiru  Htriiiuled,  and 
hiivt'  t<»  l>f  It'll  until  sttiuo  stri»iij,'er  spiiiii,'  fit'slu-t  may 
lit'ar  tlii'in  (lowii  ;  imt  most  of  tliom  puss  all  llm  tlan^'urs 
willioiil  injury,  ami  llont  down  to  llif  sawmill. 

Tliis  is  a  larj^e  woodt-n  stfUftiiro  tdoso  tt)  tlio  rivt-r. 
Till!  lo]i,'s  aiv  follei'ted  abovo  tlif  mill.  Wlii-ii  tin;  mill 
is  WDikiii^,  a  car,  runnint,'  up  antl  down  a  jtlanti  int'liut-tl 
tt»  tlif  iMl<;t' of  till!  slit'am,  lanit's  the  loi,'s  two  l)y  twt) 
into  till!  mill.  'I'lioy  art!  plaffd  undt-r  rows  of  saws, 
wliith  fut  (itiit'kly  tliroti^di  tliem  from  cntl  to  mid. 

If  till'  mill  is  run  i)y  steam,  tlii!  sawdust  is  used  to 
feed  tlif  furnati's  in  the  en<,nne  room.  Thus  every  frag- 
ment of  the  loj,'  is  of  use. 

The  square  tiiiii)i'r  is  too  valuahle  to  he  eurrietl  in 
this  rou^di  wav  to  its  linal  tlestiuation,  the  eity  of 
Quebee.  Wherever  there  are  ealaraets  on  tlit!  rivers 
down  whieh  the  stinare  timbers  are  to  be  brou^dit, 
slitles,  leailinj?  from  the  river  above  to  the  waters  below, 
have  been  eonstnietetl.  At  the  side  of  the  fall  is  an 
artilieial  ehaimel  with  smtioth  timber  walls  and  a  floor 
of  wood  and  stone,  into  whieh  the  water  is  admitted  by 
a  fjate,  and  down  which  the  square  timber  is  pav-scU, 
either  in  sinj,de  pieces  or  in  cribs. 

The  crib  is  a  kiutl  of  raft,  twenty-four  feet  wide,  with 
its  length  varying  with  the  length  of  the  timber  used  in 
its  construction.  Its  base  consists  of  twenty  pieces 
bonntl  together  by  shorter  pieces  called  transverses. 
Above  these  are  set^nred  four  broatl  i)ieces  of  timber, 
ftn-ming  the    floor    of    the    improvisetl    raft.     A    frame 


1.'^ 

n 
ir 

e^ 
ill 
la 
cl 
bi 
III 
ill 
iui 

he 
it 

th: 

Wll 

foi 
wi 
nil 
by 
ini 
of 
] 
exi 
aiK 


raf 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


tlic  lo^'S 
[lids.  A 
ided,  and 
ilift  miiy 
!  dimmers 

lu"  liver. 

tilt!  mill 
I  inclined 
I)  l)y  two 

of  saws, 
nd. 

I  used  to 
/ery  hug- 

m'y'waX  ill 
;  city  of 
lie  livers 
bron^dit, 
ira  below, 
tall  is  iin 
id  a  floor 
iiitted  by 
s  pafscu, 

r'ido,  with 
!!•  used  in 
ty  pieces 
vnsverses. 
if  timber, 
A    frame 


120 


liouse  i.s  built  upon  the  crib  for  tlie  raftsmen.     The  crib 
is  propeUed  by  lunj;  oars  and  by  sail. 

Oftentimes  travelers  are  taken  down  a  slide  by  the 
raftsmen.  The  sensation  is  a  new  one,  and  very  excit- 
ing.    It  is  a  kind  of  water  toboMtraiiing. 

The  guests  are  Imhlen  to  seat  themselves  on  the  high- 
est bit  of  tinil)er  in  the  rear,  and  to  hold  to  a  pole  drivx'U 
into  the  lowest  limbers  of  the  raft.  The  ladies  —  f(,r 
hidies  enjoy  making  this  (h-seeiit  —  draw  their  dresses 
closely  around  them.  The  slince  gates  are  opened;  and 
iH'fore  them  aiipears  a  narrow  channel  a  .piarter  of  ii 
mile  in  length,  down  which  a  shallow  stream  is  sweej)- 
iiig.  Here  and  there  the  boarded  bed  ..f  the  channel 
lias  a  fall,  or  drop,  of  from  live  to  eight  feet. 

The  eiib  is  carefully  guided  through  the  gateway,  but 
hesitates  ..ii  the  brink.  Soon  the  waters  rise  around  it; 
itHoats;  and  then,  with  a  suchlen  rush,  plunges  (h)wn 
the  incline.  As  the  crib  goes  over  the  drops,  jets  of 
water  spurt  up  between  the  timbers.  And  now  the 
foaming,  tossing  water  just  ahead  shows  that  the  erib 
will  s(.on  be  on  the  rough  river  again.  There  i.s  one 
moredn.p;  and  then  the  moving  crib  is  neatly  caught 
by  a  lloating  raft  of  timber,  Avhicli  prevents  the  .juiek 
impetus  it  has  aecpiired  from  sending  it  to  the  botti.m 
of  the  stream. 

Every  one  is  well  8i)lashed,  but  he  does  not  care.  The 
excitement  of  the  swift  rush  fully  compensates  for  wet 
and  clinging  clothes. 

The  single  cribs  proceed  to  the  "banding  ground." 
There  they  are  fastened,  or  banded  together,  into 
rafts  by  pieces  of  twisted  sapling.     One  raft  contains 


•  i-i 


130 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


from  ninety  to  one  hundred  cribs.  The  method  by 
which  they  are  fastened  aUows  each  crib  some  freedom 
of  motion  up  and  down,  and  so  lessens  the  strain  on  the 

raft  as  a  whole. 

When  a  raft  arrives  at  a  rapid  or  a  waterfall,  it  is  sep- 
arated into  cribs.  'J'hese  pass  down  the  slide  in  turn, 
and  arc  made  into  a  raft  a,^•ain  below. 

Tlie  raft  looks  like  a  floating  village.  On  nearly 
every  crib  is  a  tiny  hut  in  which  the  raftsman  lives,  and 
sometimes  his  wife  and  children.  Such  a  raft  is  a  very 
pictures(iue  sight,  with  its  many  fires  blazing  brightly, 
its  many  sails  swelling  in  the  breeze,  and  its  oars  plied 
by  muscular,  brown-armed  raftsmen. 

On  arriving  at  Quebec,  the  raft  is  broken  up  and  its 
timber  dispersed  among  tlie  acres  of  timber  floating  in 
the  coves  near  the  harbor. 

From  these  mighty  stores  of  lumber  many  of  the  out- 
going shii)S  are  filled.  Men  dart  about  over  the  loose 
timbers,  selecting  the  cargo  with  their  pike  poles.  The 
beams  arc  raised  by  chains  and  passed  into  the  great 
receiving  ports  in  the  bows  of  the  ships. 

As  a  vessel  becomes  more  heavily  laden,  the  lowest 
porthole,  through  wbi.li  the  loading  has  been  carried 
on,  sinks  to  the  water's  edge.  This  porthole  is  then 
closed,  and  the  loading  continues  through  one  ahove. 

Nearly  one-half  of  the  timber  exported  goes  to  Great 
Britain.  The  United  States  also  imports  large  stores. 
The  products  of  the  forest  exports  during  the  la&t  ten 
years  have  averaged  twenty  million  dollai-s  a  year. 

Her  forests  form  part  of  the  present  capital  of  Canada, 
and,  properly  cared  for,  would  be  a  permanent  source  of 


m.i 


^^m%M 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


181 


he   mcthoti  by 

some  freedom 

le  strain  on  the 

terfiill,  it  is  sep- 
3  slide  in  turn, 

re.  On  nearly 
Lsman  lives,  and 
a  raft  is  a  very 
lazing  brightly, 
d  its  oars  plied 

)ken  up  and  its 
mber  floating  in 

nany  of  the  out- 
it  over  the  loose 
)ike  poles.  The 
1  into  the  great 

aden,  the  lowest 
las  been  carried 
porthole  is  then 
ch  one  above. 
,ed  goes  to  Great 
Drts  large  stores, 
ring  the  la&t  ten 
llai-s  a  year, 
apital  of  Canada, 
•manent  source  of 


wealth ;  but  of  late  years  they  have  been  so  recklessly 
consumed  that  there  is  danger  of  the  supply  becoming 
exhausted.  Wlien  houses,  bridges,  and  fences  are  built 
of  wood,  when  country  roads  are  laid  over  logs  of  wood, 
and  when  cities  are  paved  with  wood,  it  seems  as  if  the 
waste  of  wood  was  wrong. 

The  forests  are  also  being  tliijined  by  fires.  Picnic 
parties  neglect  to  extinguish  the  fires  tliey  build,  and 
farmers,  while  clearing  land,  often  start  fires  which  get 
beyond  their  control  and  destroy  large  tracts  of  forest 
land. 

The  lumberman  is  the  great  pioneer  of  civilization. 
His  shanty  is  the  centre  from  which  may  grow  a  town 
or  city  spreading  over  a  large  area.  Farmers,  finding  a 
'market  for  their  produce  in  the  lumbering  camp,  clear 
farms  near  by.  lilacksmiths  and  wheelwrights  follow 
the  farmer ;  and  then,  if  a  sawmill  is  established  on  the 
nearest  stream,  the  settlement  of  tlie  place  is  secured. 

In  this  way  Canada  owes  more  than  she  can  estimate 
to  the  simple,  hard-working  lumberman  living  his  toil- 
some yet  happy  life. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

THE   CANADIAN   PBAIRIE. 

Canada  is  rich  in  forests,  rich  in  mines,  but  richest  of 
all  in  her  prairie  land.  The  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad, 
which  binds  with  its  steel  links  the  Great  Lakes  to  the 
Pacific  coast,  passes  through  a  thousand  miles  of  forests 
and  a  thousand  miles  of  prairie.    We  have  gone  together 


182 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


into  the  forests ;  have  ga/ed  at  the  handsome  pines  and 
oalvs;  and  have  seen  tlie  strong  lumbermen  eiitting,  hew- 
ing, and  hauling  logs.  Now  let  us  visit  the  prairies,  and 
see  what  kind  of  life  is  fouud  upon  them. 

Perhaps  you  may  remember  your  tirst  sight  of  the 
sea,  when  you  stood  silent  with  parted  lips  and  with 
eyes  fixed  intentlv  t)n  the  blue  wonder  of  the  tossing 
waves.  You  have  long  treasured  the  feeling  of  awe 
and  delight  whieh  the  scene  called  into  your  mind. 
The  first  sight  of  the  ))rairie  is  just  as  wonderful  as  the 
fii-st  view  of  the  ocean.  There  is  the  same  v/ide  outlook, 
the  same  sweeping  breeze,  and  the  same  rounded  billows. 
But  the  billows  in  the  case  of  the  prairie  are  always 
motionless. 

The  prairie  looks  like  a  frozen  sea.  Grassy  hillocks, 
precisely  like  the  green  waves  of  the  ocean,  roll  away  in 
long,  wavy  lines  a  thousand  miles  westward  to"  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  seven  hundred  miles  northward 
to  the  Peace  liiver.  All  of  this  land,  except  the  tiny 
sciuare  of  Manitoba,  is  the  Northwest  Territory  of  the 
Dominion  of  Canada. 

One  canriot  say  in  which  reason  the  prairies  are  most 
beautiful.  After  the  firat  mild  days  have  come  in  spring, 
the  prairie  anemone,  a  small  flower  of  a  delicate  blue,  is 
found  half-hidden  by  the  withered  and  whitened  leaves 
of  the  previous  year.  Sometimes  the  anemone  is  white, 
and  then  again  it  is  purple;  but  the  flower,  like  the 
Plymouth  mayflower,  blossoms  before  the  leaves  unfold, 
and  is  the  fii-st  sign  of  spiing. 

In  the  month  of  June  the  prairies  are  smothered  with 
wild  roses.    The  horse  of  the  traveler  crashes  them 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORiJ. 


138 


pines  and 
tting,  licw- 
•airics,  and 

^ht  of  the 
and  with 
lie  tossing 
ng  of  awe 
'our  mind. 
;iful  as  the 
lie  outlook, 
led  hillows. 
are  always 

sy  hillocks, 
oil  away  in 
xvd  to"  the 
northward 
pt  the  tiny 
tory  of  the 

es  are  most 
e  in  spring, 
■ate  blue,  is 
ened  leaves 
ne  is  white, 
3r,  like  the 
ives  unfold, 

thered  with 
ashes  them 


beneath  his  feet  by  day,  and  at  night  the  traveler's 
blanket  is  spread  above  their  tender  i)ink  and  white 
blossoms. 

In  early  summer  the  grass  is  a  bright  green,  but  the 
autunui  frosts  turn  the  sedges  and  grasses  to  many 
coloi-s,  —  to  pale  lemon  yellow,  blue,  dark  red,  saffron, 
and  brown.  These,  with  purple  asters  and  golden  core- 
opsis, make  the  i)rairies  a  glory  of  splendid  color  in 
the  fall.  As  the  frosts  grow  keener,  the  grasses  are 
bleached  to  a  yellow  so  pale  as  to  seem  almost  white. 

Then,  just  as  the  first  snow  flurry  of  the  year  might 
be  expected,  the  sun  appears  to  rise  higher  in  the  sky ; 
a  yellow  haze  settles  over  the  horizon ;  and  it  seems  as 
if  sununer  had  returned,  the  days  are  so  warm  and  beau- 
tiful. It  has  returned  indeed,  for  this  is  the  Indian 
summer. 

After  six  weeks,  the  soft  yellow  smoke  fades  away, 
and  then  a  kind  of  melancholy  waiting  seems  to  settle 
over  the  pale  prairie.  It  is  waiting  for  the  blizzard 
from  the  northwest. 

Terrible  and  destructive  as  the  blizzards,  or  s-.iow 
squalls,  are  in  the  cities,  tliey  are  more  to  be  dreaded 
on  the  prairie.  The  farmer  is  working  in  some  field 
remote  from  his  house.  He  is  so  much  interested  in 
his  work  that  he  does  not  notice  the  sky,  which  a  few 
houi-s  ago  was  fair.  But  great  clouds  have  rolled  up- 
ward from  the  west,  and  suddenly  the  blizzard  is  upon 
him. 

He  flies  for  protection  to  the  nearest  bluff  or  grove. 
The  keen  wind  drives  the  snowflakes  scpiarely  into 
his  face.     They  blind  his  eyes  and  cut  hi,j  cheeks.     At 


134 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


»i 


length  he  gains  the  shelter  of  the  wood,  and  gives  one 
backward  glance  over  his  shoulder.  Houses,  barns, 
fences,  tields  are  blotted,  fron^  his  sight.  Prairie  and 
sky  are  lost,  and  all  that  is  left  is  a  white  sheet  of 
whistling,  driving  snow. 

The  cold  is  intense ;  but  a  roaring  fire  of  branches 
is  soon  Iniilt,  and  the  farmer  seats  himself  near  by  to 
wait  for  the  storm  to  pass.  The  usual  duration  of  a 
blizzard  is  twelve  houi-s,  but  one  sometimes  lasts  for 
days.  In  that  case  our  farmer  is  lost.  If  hunger  drives 
him  to  attempt  to  reach  his  home,  he  will  probably  lose 
his  way  and  perish  with  cold  on  the  open  prairie. 

In  tiie  cities  the  blocks  of  houses  afford  some  protec- 
tion. Hut  in  the  streets  open  to  the  wind,  nothing  is 
seen  but  a  wild,  white  whirl  in  which  shingles,  boards, 
and  bricks  fly  al)out,  and  through  which  men  fight  their 
way.  The  lighted  windows  of  the  stores  and  houses 
cauJe  the  dark  fury  of  the  tempest  to  appear  all  the 
stronger  and  more  terrible. 

Winnipeg,  the  capital  of  Manitoba,  is  a  purely  west- 
ern town.  A  few  years  ago  a  lot  in  the  centre  of 
Winnipeg  could  be  bought  for  a  trifle,  but  now  it 
would  cost  more  than  a  similar  lot  in  Toronto.  People 
from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  thronging  into  this  new 
city.  Ask  a  man  the  way  to  a  street,  and  very  likely  he 
will  say  that  he  has  only  arrived  in  the  city  that  day. 

Winnipeg  presents  strong  contrasts  of  magnificence 
and  poverty.  Fine  stone  blocks  stand  opposite  wretched 
shanties  ;  spirited  horses  and  elegant  ca-riages  dash  by 
lumbering  ox  carts;  graduates  from  the  eastern  univer- 
sities pass  Icelandei-s  and  Indians  on  the  streets. 


^4ifc 


,res  one 

barns, 

He  and 

heet  of 

ranches 
r  by  to 
on  of  a 
asts  for 
r  drives 
bly  lose 

!  protec- 
itbing  is 
,  boards, 
rht  their 
[  houses 
•  all  the 

ily  wesfc- 
entre  of 
now  it 
People 
this  new 
likely  he 
it  day. 
;nifi(;ence 
wretched 
4  dash  by 
n  univer- 


:  yy 


'-Wit  '--  0  -^' 


THE    CITY    HALL.   WINNIPEG. 


■^Siiftth' 


r ' 


m 


I  1  ,  . !-. 


n^ 


11 


h 


I:  '    $•  t 


136 


THE.  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


Winnipeg  is  a  good  starting  point  for  expeditions  to 
the  north  and  to  the  west,  liy  means  of  l)oat  or  eanoe 
one  can  reach  Hudson  Hay  hy  following  the  valley  of 
the  Nelson.  The  two  great  rivers  flowing  into  Hudson 
Bay  from  the  west  are  the  Churchill  and  the  Nelson. 

The  Churchill  is  a  beautiful  river,  larger  than  the 
Rhine.  Its  water,  which  is  clearer  than  the  St.  Law- 
rence, flows  between  low,  rolling  hanks.  The  Churchill, 
although  a  wide  river,  is  swift  and  deep,  and  can  be 
navigated  for  some  distance  from  its  mouth. 

The  upper  course  of  the  Nelson,  like  the  upper  coui-se 
of  the  Churchill,  consists  of  a  chain  of  small  lakes,  con- 
nected by  short  streams.  The  Nelson,  on  account  of 
falls,  is  not  navigable  as  far  as  the  Churchill,  and  the 
harbor  at  its  mouth  is  not  so  good.  Its  valley  is  as 
large  as  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  it  carries  four 
tinges  as  much  water  to  Hudson  Bay  as  the  Ottawa 
pours  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  So  you  see  that  here  in 
the  backwoods  of  Canada  is  one  of  the  great  rivers  of 

tlie  world. 

York  Factory,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Churchill,  is  a 
depot  for  collecting  and  shipping  furs.  Once  a  year  a 
ship  from  England  brings  the  people  their  stores,  and 
returns  with  a  cargo  of  furs.  The  ship  is  eagerly 
watched  for ;  and  when,  at  last,  her  sails  appear  upon 
the  cold  gray  waters  of  Hudson  Bay,  tears  rise  in  the 
eyes  of  English  and  Scotch  emigrants  at  thoughts  of 
home.  As  the  ship  sails  into  the  harbor,  the  battery  of 
Fort  York  salutes  the  Union  Jack,  and  just  before  the 
vessel  drops  her  anchor,  she  answers  the  fort. 

Then  there  are  busy  times.    Every  one  owning  a  boat 


litions  to 
or  canoe 
valley  of 
I  Hudson 
elson. 
than  the 
St.  Law- 
'hurchill, 
(1  can  be 

ler  coui-se 
ikes,  con- 
3count  of 
1,  and  the 
Hey  is  as 
rries  four 
e  Ottawa 
\t  here  in 
t  rivers  of 

chill,  is  a 
J  a  year  a 
itores,  and 
is  eagerly 
pear  upon 
ise  in  the 
loughts  of 
battery  of 
before  the 

ling  a  boat 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


137 


pushes  out  to  the  ship  to  see  the  new  comers  and  to  help 
unload.  Indians  in  their  canoes  i)a(ldle  about  as  eagerly 
as  their  Avhite  neighbors.  Tlie  vessel  is  rapidly  un- 
loaded, and  with  the  next  high  tide  she  is  off  on  her 
return  trip. 

Those  on  the  shore  watch  her  till  she  is  out  of  sight, 
and  then  turn  sadly  away,  realizing  that  a  dreary  winter 
lies  before  them.  It  takes  a  sailing  vessel  about  one 
month  to  make  the  voyage  between  York  Factory  and 
Liverpool. 

It  may  suri)rise  you  to  learn  that  this  little  town  of 
York  Factory  is  no  farther  from  England  llian  is  Mon- 
treal. Some  day,  when  the  prairies  are  thickly  settled, 
and  when  railroads  connect  the  valleys  of  tlie  Peace 
and  the  Saskatchewan  Rivers  with  Hudson  Bay,  York 
Factory  may  become  a  large  and  important  commercial 

I)ort. 

There  is  talk  about  having  a  line  of  steamere  running 
between  the  British  Isles  and  Hudson  Bay.  When  that 
day  comes,  this  region  will  draw  much  trade  from  Mon- 
treal;  populous  cities  will  arise  at  the  mouths  of  the 
Churchill  and  the  Hudson  Rivers,  and  Hudson  Bay, 
ceasing  to  be  the  remote,  unfamiliar  sea  that  it  now  is, 
will  become  a  busy  highway  for  ships  and  steamers. 
The  little  child  may  see  all  these  wonderful  changes 
before  he  grows  gray-haired. 

The  life  of  the  Indian  trapper  is  a  hard  one.  Three 
Indians  will  perhaps  hunt  together.  Leaving  Fort 
York,  to  which  they  have  just  carried  a  hard-earned 
stock  of  furs,  they  set  out  for  their  Inuiting  ground. 

A  walk  of  a  hundi-ed  and  fifty  miles  lies  before  them. 


138 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


•.1    .1 


It  is  in  the  (load  of  winter.  Deep  snows  cover  tac 
ground,  and  a  frost  is  in  the  air  so  keen  and  cokl  tliat 
even  the  hardy  warrior  draws  his  blanket  closer  about 
him. 

Each  Indian  carries  upon  his  l)a(k  a  bundle  contain- 
ing dried  meat,  tea,  tobacco,  and  the  blanket  in  which 
he  wraiMS  himself  at  night.  Tbey  take  turns  in  drawing 
a  sled,  upon  which  are  stra[)pe(l  the  camp  kettles,  traps, 
and  furs  which  they  have  taken.  After  a  walk  of  fifty 
miles,  they  scoop  out,  with  their  snowshoes,  a  hollow  in 
the  snow,  in  which  they  spend  the  night. 

On  arriving  at  the  hunting  grounds,  the  first  care  of 
the  trapper  is  to  pitch  the  wigwam.  He  next  turns  liis 
attention  to  setting  the  traps. 

Each  Indian  starts  in  a  different  direction,  blazing  his 
path  through  the  woods  as  he  goes.  He  makes  a  large 
circuit,  or  loop,  whicli  takes  him  several  days  to  com- 
plete, and  which  ends  in  the  camp.  Near  this  line  he  sets 
his  traps ;  and  every  few  days  he  goes  over  the  circuit 
to  see  that  the  traps  are  set  and  in  order,  and  to  collect 
the  bodies  of  the  animals  ca)ight. 

If  a  hunting  ground  proves  to  be  unprofitable,  they 
pack  up  their  goods  and  patiently  trudge  one  hundred 
or  two  hundred  miles  further  on.  The  trapper  toils 
early  and  late,  with  very  little  pay  for  his  labor. 

Now  let  us  turn  our  faces  westward  from  Winnipeg. 
Perhaps  the  best  way  to  cross  the  prairies  is  on  horae- 
back,  with  tent  and  provisions  packed  in  a  light  cart. 

The  only  road  is  the  trail,  which  stretches  like  a  hard, 
black  line  across  the  level,  green  plain.  It  is  delightful 
to  ride  over  in  fine  weather.      But  let  the  rain  fall  for  a 


fe 
ai 
a 

N 
el 
fa 

St. 
U! 

W 

a1 

N 

S 

o 
o 
u 

si 
si 

d 
a 

0 

S( 

n 

tl 

V 

'I 

8 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


139 


/^cr  tlio 
Id  lliiit 
f  about 

;oiitain- 
whicli 
Irawing 
i,  traps, 
of  nfty 
illow  in 

care  of 
irns  his 

'Ang  his 
a  hirge 
to  corn- 
he  sets 
circuit 
collect 

le,  they 
lundred 
er  toils 

nnipeg. 
I  hoi-se- 
cart. 
a  hard, 
litrhtful 
ill  for  a 


few  momeuts,  and  the  trail  becomes  exceedingly  nuiddy 
and  disagreeal)U'.  ( )ne  is  forced  to  turn  luside  and  seek 
a  new  trail  i"*)r  himself. 

How  delightful  is  life  on  the  i)rairie  in  summer! 
Nowliere  else  is  tlie  sky  so  high  and  so  blue.  Nowhere 
else  are  tlie  clouds  so  purely  white.  The  breeze  that 
fans  the  cheek  is  fresh,  cool,  and  invigorating.  The  air 
seems  newly  created,  and,  in  its  turn,  seems  to  awaken 
us  to  new  life. 

Hunger  is  no  word  for  the  intense  sensation  with 
whii^h,  after  our  dash  over  the  prairies,  we  disnunmt 
at  our  first  resting  place  for  the  iiigld.  Hot  coffee  I 
Never  before  was  its  aroma  so  fragrant,  nor  its  taste  so 
grateful. 

The  full  moon  rises  slowly,  and  casts  a  silvery  tinge 
over  the  grassy  waves  of  th'-  prairie.  The  stars  shine 
out  brightly.  Kolling  yourself  in  a  blanket,  you  gaze 
ui)ward  for  hours,  as  cm  by  one  the  constellations  wheel 
slowly  toward  the  western  horizon,  and  vanish  out  of 
sight. 

The  light  of  dawn  awakens  you  to  another  beautiful 
day.  The  rising  sun  throws  a  rosy  light  over  the  plain, 
and  is  dazzlingly  reflected  from  millions  of  crystal  drops 
on  the  grass. 

The  prairie  at  all  hours  presents  an  ever  changing 
scene  of  beauty.  At  noon,  mirages  are  often  seen.  A 
mirage  is  a  picture  of  some  object,  greatly  magnified  and 
thrown  upon  the  sky.  For  example,  there  might  be  a 
willow  tree  so  far  away  that  a  traveler  could  not  see  it. 
The  noon  light  might  cause  this  willow  to  appear  as  a 
grove  of  trees  to  him.     In  this  same  way,  a  clump  of 


140 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


m 


trees  seems  to  he  a  forest,  and  a  few  bushes  on  the  l)anl\S 
of  a  hrook  hi'coine  tall,  overshadowiiijf  trees. 

Sometimes  at  ni^dit,  a  hrilliaiit  coppery  red  lijrht 
glows  in  tlie  northern  horizon,  whiles  forked  llames 
shoot  into  the  sky.  It  is  eausetl  by  a  jaairie  fire  forty, 
sixty,  or  even  eighty  miles  away.  Owinjf  to  the  careless- 
ness of  liidians  and  emiifrants,  camp  lires  are  often  left 
smonlderi)i<f.  A  light  hree/e  sj)riiigs  np  ;  the  lire  spreads, 
and  miles  of  prairie  are  left  hlaekened  and  desolate. 

The  country  through  which  we  are  now  passing  is 
being  rapidly  settled.  Dark  ploughed  fields  and  thin 
eohimns  of  rising  smoke  show  that  tlu;  wilderness  is 
peopled. 

'I'he  story  tohl  by  one  setth'r  is  that  of  nearly  all. 
He  and  his  family  started  westward  in  the  early  spring, 
hoi)ing  that  they  might  raise  their  house  and  harvest 
their  croi)s  before  winter.  Finding  a  fertile  tract  of 
laud  near  a  small  stream,  they  decided  that  hero  should 
he  their  home. 

For  the  first  few  weeks  they  slept  upon  rubber 
blankets  spread  upon  the  ground,  and  led  a  gypsy  life. 
Then,  with  the  help  of  neighbors,  the  house  was  built. 

It  was  of  i>oplar  logs  lai<l  on  a  foundation  of  oak  logs. 
The  poplar  logs  are  never  laid  upon  the  ground,  as  they 
do  not  resist  dampness  as  the  oak  logs  do.  'i'he  chinks 
between  the  logs  were  filled  in  with  bits  of  board,  and 
then  the  walls  were  covered  with  clay  which  hardened 
into  a  firm,  compact  coat.  The  roof  was  of  shingles, 
covered  with  hardened  mud.  'IMiere  were  but  two 
rooms  within,  one  in  each  story,  and  a  ladder  led  from 
one  floor  to  the  other. 


fr 

U( 


tli 
h. 

til 

m 
til 

V(. 


Si 
til 


C( 

m 
til 
a^ 
w 
se 
m 
ar 

til 
sa 
El 
fr 


lie  bankH 

I'd  lififht 
1  HaiiR's 
re  forty, 
ciirck'ss- 
iftcn  left 
spreads, 
late, 
issiiifj  is 

vnd  tliiii 
nness  is 

■arly  all. 

V  s[)iiiifif, 

harvest 

traet  of 

c  should 

I  rubber 
rpsy  life. 
s  built, 
oak  logs. 
1,  as  they 
le  ehinks 
)ard,  and 
hardened 
shiufrles, 
but  two 
led  from 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


141 


Ni'xt,  the  fariiitT  procffilcd  Id  plou'^li,  workuiif  from 
pee[i  of  (lawn  till  nine  in  llic  morning,  iind  llien  iii^ain 
from  four  in  (lie  at'lcinoon  to  sunset.  Twcnly  o;  thirty 
acres  of  land  wert;  thus  prejiared  for  plant iiij,'. 

'i'hen  rude  barns  were  built;  fcncfs  wcit  raised;  and 
the  tender  ^ncen  of  the  potato  plants  appt;ared  near  the 
house.  A  small  crop  of  oats  and  barley  was  harvested 
the  first  year. 

The  next  sprinj,'  wheat  Mas  sown  ;  a  dairy  was  built; 
m(U'c  cattle  wert!  added;  better  furniture  ap|)eared  in 
the  house.  In  a  few  years  the  faiiuer  who  eaiue  west  a 
very  poor  man  with  only  a  few  luuHlred  ddllars,  is  very 
comfortably  off. 

All  this  western  reL;'iou  is  woinlerfully  adapted  to  the; 
growinjf  of  wheat.  The  valleys  of  the  I'eaee  and  the 
Saskatchewan  Iviveix  niij;ht  be  called  the  granaries  of 
the  woild. 

The  trappers  used  to  tell  marvellous  stories  of  tho 
eold  of  these  districts.  Tliev  said  that  the  trround  re- 
maiiu'd  frozen  all  suninuu-,  that  the  mercury  fi'oze  in  tho 
thermometers,  and  that  the  axes  of  wood  cutters  broke 
against  the  frozen  trees.  The  object  of  these  stories 
was  to  keep  the  country  free  from  settlers,  and  so  pre- 
serve the  fur-bearing  animals  in  plenty.  ICven  now, 
many  find  it  difiicult  to  believe  that  the  winters  here 
are  no  severer  than  those  of  Eastern  Canada. 

Did  you  ever  have  a  garden  of  your  own?  I\'rhaj)s 
then  you  have  found  that  it  is  well  iu)t  to  plaee  tho 
same  kind  of  plants  in  the  same  spot  year  after  year. 
Each  plant  has  its  own  favorite  food,  which  it  draws 
from  the  earth.     After  growing  a  year  or  two  in   the 


1412 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


r* 


satiio  plivct',  it  liiiH  taken  iiiDst  of  its  own  fund  fmni  tlu! 
soil,  and  so  Ik-coiiu'S  small  and  witlicicd.  'l"niiis|ilaiil  it, 
and  ininirdiutt'ly  it  bcj^dns  to  jrrow  and  to  tlirivc.  'I'liis 
is  }H'('a»isi'  it  has  t'onnd  trcsli  i'ood  in  the  new  place!. 

Tlu'  farmer  lias  to  elianj,M!  liis  crops  in  this  sanio  way, 
])lantinj,'  corn  wlicrt;  the  year  hefore  he  liad  pease,  j,'ro\v- 
in^'  licans  in  the  aspara;,nis  hed,  and  so  on.  It  is  »|nit(i 
a  (hemical  p>i//.le  to  the  fanner,  how  hi!  shall  chanfjo 
his  eroi»s  to  the  hest  advantaj,'(!. 

The  prairie  soil,  havinj,'  never  Iteen  enltivated,  is  so 
rich  that  for  sixty  yeai's  wheat  has  heen  raised  in  the 
same  lields  without  any  du'ssing  or  other  enrichmc^nt  of 
the  land. 

Here,  too,  the  wheat  reaches  its  perfection.  There 
are  thret!  ^naiiis  in  the  kei'nel,  while  farther  south  in 
tlie  wheat  lields  of  Minnesota  and  Dakota,  there  art!  hut 
two.  So  thirty  Imshels  of  wheat  can  Iw  harveste'd  from 
an  aero  in  Canada,  wlu'U  only  twenty  can  he  produced 
on  an  acre  in  the  United  States. 

Some  stalks  of  wheat  have  Imh'U  fouufl  in  the  Peace 
valley  with  five  grains  to  a  kernel.  This  shows  that 
even  more  than  thirty  hushels  to  the  acre  can  he  raised 
in  this  section  of  the  Northwest.  The  grasshopper,  the 
farmers'  pest,  is  luikiiown  near  Peace  River. 

And  now,  following  in  a  general  way  the  South  Sas- 
katchewan River,  we  enter  the  loneliest  region  as  yet 
crossed.  For  days  and  days  the  traveler  gallops  on, 
and  still  the  same  desolation  and  sileJiee  is  ahout  him. 
The  horizon  ajipcars  always  the  same,  and  always  as 
far  from  him  as  at  lirst.  No  living  thing  can  be  seen  or 
heard. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


t:t 


from  tilt) 
iis|i)niil  it, 
ivi'.  'riiis 
pliicu. 
Miuiu)  way, 
•use,  j^'i'ow- 
It  is  (|iiit(! 
111!  cliaiigu 

iit<'(l,  is  so 
sfd  in  till! 
icliuu^iit  of 

in.  There 
r  sontli  in 
LTd  ;uv  \nii 
t'stt'"(l  from 
!  produced 


Tlio  spirits  of  tlic  ^'iiyt'st  tiiivclcr  sinli  liciiciitli  tlit) 
awful  loiiciiiifss  of  tlic  |ila«'c.  It  sci-iiis  us  if  one  mi^'lit 
jr,,  (in  for  fvi-r  iind  ever,  wilii  no  cluiu},'!!  in  liis  sur- 
rounding's. 

Hut  at  last  \v(>  draw  near  tlic  foothills  of  (he  Rocky 
Mountains,  wlicrc  wc  arc  to  enjoy  hiintinj,'  the  j;''''''')' 
hear  and  the  IxitTalo.  The  hnlTaloes  used  to  riviiK"  tlio 
prairie,  hiil,  since  the  settlers  have  eomc  tlockiiij,'  in,  tlio 
few  which  remain  alive  have  retreated  to  the  mountains. 

The  Rocky  Monnlains  are  as  },'rand,  in  their  way,  as 
the  Alps.  Tlu'y  look  like  jrreat  tents  tiitfied  with  white, 
and,  in  the  sunset  li^ht,  },deam  heautifully  with  rose 
and  fjold.  The  Indian  calle.l  ihcni  "The  (late  of  the 
Worhl."  Me  helieved  that  the  "happy  hiintiiifr  frround" 
lay  just  heyond  them.  The  Indian  of  the  phiin  w  ild 
have  heeii  dcli<,dited  to  follow  where  we  are  goiu},'  now, 
and  to  explore  the  land  which  lies  heyond  the  "CJate  of 
the  Worhl,"  —  the  eountry  of  Hritish  Columhia. 


the  Peace 
diows  that 
I  he  raised 
lojUier,  the 

South  Sas- 
;ion  as  yet 
rallops  on, 
about  him. 
always  as 
be  seen  or 


CHAPTER   XII. 
nEYONl)  TlIK    U()t;KY   MOUNTAINS. 

The  Atlantic  coast  of  Cn  lada  has  several  provinces, 
but  the  Pac.ilic  coast  has  only  one.  That  is  the  province 
of  British  Columbia,  which  includes  not  only  the  main- 
land but  also  Vancouver  Island. 

Over  thirty  years  ago,  when  the  country  was  unset- 
tled ajxl  ivlmost  unknown,  the  news  spread  like  Avild- 


->'^.4^}Vr 


144 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


iire  through  Caniula  and  the  United  States  that  gold 
had  ])een  found  in  the  hed  of  the  Fraser  River.  In- 
stantly a  great  tide  of  immigration  swept  towards  Brit- 
ish Columbia,  and  soon,"on  every  sand  bar  .u  the  Fraser, 
might  l)e  seen  crowds  of  eager  men  bending  over  their 
rude  eontrivaiH;es  for  washing  nuggets  of  gohl  from  the 
sand  of  tlie  river  l)ed. 

Tlie  most  benelieial  result  of  the  rush  for  gold  was 
that  the  country  began  to  be  settled,  and  o])ene(l  up  for 
settlement.  Farmers  came  in  the  midst  of  the  gold 
fever,  not  to  wasli  out  the  golih  but  to  plant  the  tields. 
The  miners  needed  food,  and  so  there  was  need  of  the 
farmers.  Many  of  the  farmers  and  minei's  remained 
after  the  mining  excitement  was  ov(n-,  and  so  British 
Columbia  came  to  ])e  settled. 

There;  arc  live  parallel  nuiges  of  mountains  crossing 
British  Columbia  from  north  to  south.  Beginning  with 
the  east,  they  are  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Selkirk 
Range,  the  Cold  Range,  the  Cascade  ^Mountains,  and 
the  mountains  of  \'ancouver  and  Queen  Charlotte's 
Islands.  This  last  range  belongs  to  an  ancient  moun- 
tain system  of  whlcli  a  part  has  sunk  below  the  sea. 
It  protects  the  mainland  from  the  chilly  ocean  winds. 

The  rain  clouds  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  let  some  of 
their  contents  fall  on  Vancouver  Island  and  the  Cascade 
Mountains.  Then,  rising  higher  in  the  air  because  of 
their  lightness,  they  float  across  the  great  plain,  and, 
meeting  tlie  cold,  lofty  summits  of  the  Gold  and  Selkirk 
Ranges,  all  the  rain  they  carry  falls  upon  these  moun- 
tains. Conse()uently,  he?'e  is  found  tie  richest  and  most 
luxuriant  vegetation. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


146 


tes  that  gold 
!!•  River-  In- 
towards  Brit- 

,)i  the  Fraser, 
iig  over  their 
gold  from  the 

for  gold  was 
opened  iq)  for 
t  of  the  gold 
ant  the  fields. 
s  need  of  the 
lers  remained 
md  so  British 

I  tains  crossing 
U'ginning  with 
s,  the   Selkirk 
lountains,  and 
en    Charlotte's 
ancient  monn- 
helow  the  sea. 
)cean  winds, 
im  let  some  of 
nd  the  Cascade 
air  because  of 
eat  plain,  and, 
)ld  and  Selkirk 
m  these  moun- 
lehest  and  most 


Great  forests  of  pine,  spruce,  hemlock,  and  cedar  cover 
the  slopes  of  the  mountains.  The  ground,  the  rucks, 
and  the  trees,  all  have  a  coat  of  deep  green  moss,  thick 
and  soft  as  plush.  Garlands  of  moss  hang  from  the 
trees.  It  is  beautiful  to  look  at,  but  to  penetrate 
one  of  these  dense  forests  of  t'le  upper  Selki.k  is  an 
exceedingly  diflicult  undertaking. 

Very  litt'e  of  Britislj  Columbia  is  as  fertile  as  these 
mountains,  where  rain  or  snow  falls  nearly  every  day. 
The  great  plateau  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and 
the  (loTd  Range  is  dry  and  barren  throughout,  except 
in  the  valley  of  the  Fraser  River.  Low,  rounded, 
brown  hills  rise  in  all  directions,  and  the  only  natural 
growths  are  the  coarse  bunch  grass  and  the  cactus 
kiH)wn  as  the  prickly  pear. 

Enterprising  farmers,  by  means  of  canals  with  which 
to  draw  water  from  the  few  streams,  have  made  farms 
for  themselves,  upon  which  they  have  been  able  to  raise 
fruits  and  grains.  An  acre  of  this  land  will  produce 
from  forty  to  seventy  bushels  of  wheat. 

The  Fraser  River,  besides  being  the  centre  of  the 
agricnlMual  region,  is  also  the  chief  means  by  which 
the  iidand  towns  communicate  with  the  coast.  Twice 
a  week  steamboats  ascend  the  river  for  two  hundred 
miles,  while  canoes  can  ascend  three  hundred  miles 
farther. 

The  Gulf  of  Georgia,  which  separates  Vancouver 
Island  from  the  mainland,  has  been  called  the  Mediter- 
ranean of  America,  A  vessel  could  sail  for  a  whole 
week  through  the  Gulf,  threading  the  narrow  channels 
between  the  many  small  islands.     The  idgion  is  most 


■■■rrjr 


I    ; 

I   ^       I 

I ; 


If  If 


\i 


146 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


THE    DOUGLAS    !INE. 


solitary.     There  is  no 
sign    of    human    life ; 
nothing    but    lonely 
mountain    peal's,    gla- 
ciers, and  deep  forests. 
Far   to    the    north   lie 
Queen      Charlotte's 
Islands,  where  a  little 
farming   is   done.     To 
the  west  stretches  the 
wooded  shore  of  \  an- 
couver  Island. 

Only  the   shores   of 
this  island  are  known. 
The  interior  has  been 
but  little  explored.    It 
is  linown,  howevef,  that 
there  are  many  moun- 
taiiis   and  vast  forests 
of  the  Douglas  pine  in 
the  centre  of  the  island. 
Victoria,  the  capital 
of  British  Columbia,  is 
situated  on  the  south- 
ern end  of  Vancouver 
Island.    It  has  a  small, 
deep  harbor,  which  is 
shaped  like  the  letter 
T.     Its   narrow,  chan- 
nel-like entrance  forms 
the  stem  of  the  letter, 


# 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


147 


re  IS  no 
vn  life ; 
lonely 
l-s,  gla- 
)  forests, 
loitli  lie 
irlotte's 
!  a  little 
Mie.  1  o 
clies  the 
of  \  au- 

;hores   of 
e  known, 
lias  been 
iured.     It 
evef ,  that 
iiy  mon li- 
st forests 
lis  pine  in 
;he  island. 
lie  capital 
ilunibia,  is 
the  south- 
Vancouver 
[vs  a  small, 
which  is 
the  I'jtter 
low,  chan- 
vnce  forms 
the  letter, 


and,  in  the  wider  part  of  the  liarlx)r,  all  but  the  very 
largest  ships  can  anclior  safely. 

Victoria  i.s  a  clianning  place,  which  seems  more  like 
an  English  town  than  an  American  city.  The  houses 
are  not  oowded  closely  together,  but  stretch  along  the 
streets  in  a  leisurely,  neighborly  fashion,  with  laige, 
pleasant  dooryards  and  gardens.  The  modern  improve- 
menl.5  of  gasliglit  and  tele[)hones  have  found  their  way 
to  this  remote  ^t)ot,  so  that  the  astonished  cornfields  are 
illuminated  and  telephone  messages  fly  across  the  vege- 
tiiljle  gardens. 

TliG  climate  is  almost  perfect.  Instead  of  being  the 
cold,  bleak  place  we  should  expect  it  to  be  in  winter, 
Victoria  is  very  mild  and  pleasant.  Tlie  thermometer 
seldom  falls  below  twenty-three  degrees  in  winter,  or 
rises  above  seventy -two  degrees  in  summer.  The  sum- 
mer lasts  from  May  to  September. 

Early  May  is  enchanting.  The  sky  is  a  beautiful 
blue;  the  Avarm  s.'tishine  begins  to  open  the  delicately 
tinted  buds ;  the  meadows  are  dotted  with  buttercups 
and  daisies,  and  tall,  scarlet  lilies  rise  from  the  fields. 
Mild  southerly  winds  prevail  during  eight  months  of 
the  year,  and  altogether  the  climate  of  Victoria  is  won- 
derfully adapted  to  invalids. 

The  Indians  are  the  laborers  in  British  Columbia. 
They  take  the  place  and  perform  the  general  duties  of 
the  negroes  at  the  South.  They  are  the  "  hands  "  of  the 
sawmills,  the  "crew"  on  the  steamboats,  and  the  "long- 
shoremen" on  the  vharves.  They  act  as  teamsters  and 
coa(;limen,  while  the  women  are  employed  as  house  ser- 
vants. 


a^STSr 


:f\ 


148 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


The  Indians  of  Vancouver  Island  are  called  Flatheads. 
They  are  so  named  because  each  Indian  has  a  flattened 
brow,  caused  l)y  his  parents  binding  a  board  across  his 
skull  during  infancy.  , 

The  houses  in  the  Indian  villages  are  not  wigwams, 
but  square  or  oblong  hut.  with  flat  roofs  The  walls 
and  ceilings  are  of  cedar  planks,  while  the  floors  are  of 
earth  Often  several  families  occupy  one  house.  1  he 
hut  is  then  about  eighty  feet  long  and  twenty  feet  wide. 
There  are  no  partitions,  but  each  famil,  luvs  its  own  hre- 
side,  around  which  it  draws  its  few  goods  and  about 
which  its  poor  home  life  centres. 

Many  of  the  Indians  of  these  villages  are  engaged  in 
the  seal  fishery.  The  seals  enter  the  Gulf  of  Georgia 
in  March,  and  all  through  the  spring  the  Indians  are 
busy  catching  them,  and  the  women  are  engaged  in 
trying  out  the  blubber.  . 

The  Indians  formerly  went  to  the  sealing  grounds  in 
their  canoes,  starting  at  early  dawn  from  the  shoi-e. 
Now  schooners  are  chartered  which  transport  both  In- 
dians and  canoes  to  the  scene  of  action.  A  few  yeai-s 
aero  two  hundred  thousand  seals  were  captured,  whose 
skins  were  valued  at  an  average  of  one  hundred  dollai-s 
apiece.  The  schooners  receive  one-third  of  the  seals 
taken  by  the  Indians. 

British  Columbia  has  a  great  future  before  her.  Al- 
though not  an  agricultural  state,  her  forests  and  hsheries 
are  unsurpassed.  As  for  the  mineral  wealth,  she  has 
but  to  open  one  of  her  rich  mines  of  gold,  and  men  from 
the  ends  of  the  earth  flock  to  her  borders  to  build  towns 
and  cities  and  otherwise  benefit  her  territory. 


vtheads. 
latteiied 
ross  his 

igwams, 
lie  walls 
s  are  of 
le.  The 
jet  wide, 
own  fire- 
id  ahout 

gaged  in 

Georgia 

lians  are 

jaged  in 

•ounds  in 
le  shore, 
both  In- 
few  yeara 
3d,  whose 
id  dollai-s 
the  seals 


OUR  AMERICAN  NEIGHBORS. 


MEXICO. 


her.  Al- 
d  fisheries 
I,  she  has 
men  from 
lild  towns 


It   ii 


1.50 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


I>  fti 


;i   i 


u 

2 
2 


< 

< 
u 

2 

2 

H 
Z 
3 
O 

s 


OUR  AMERICA]V[  NETGIIBOKS. 


MEXICO. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

A  BIRD'S-EYK   VIKVV  OF   MEXICO. 

A  part  of  tlie  sonthorn  boundary  of  our  country  i.s 
the  Rio  GraKcle.  Standing  on  the  low,  .sandy  shores  of 
this  great  river  and  looking  across  its  sluggish  waters, 
you  may  see,  high  up  on  the  opi)Osite  hillside,  a  white 
monument.  This  is  a  sign  that  all  the  land  on  the  fur- 
ther side  of  the  river  belongs  no  longer  to  the  United 
States,  but  to  our  American  neighbor  of  the  south,  — to 

Mexico. 

Mexico  is  about  one-fifth  as  large  as  our  own  country. 
It  lies  between  the  great  United  States  on  the  north, 
and  the  little  states  of  Central  America  on  the  south. 
Its  eastern  shores  are  washed  by  the  sparkling  blue 
waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  against  its  western  shores 
roll  the  solemn  surges  of  the  Pacific^  Ocean. 

Almost  the  whole  of  Mexico  consists  of  a  great  table- 
land, shaped  like  a  cornucopia.  Its  average  height  is 
about  five  thousand  feet,  and  aci'oss  it  from  north  to 
south  run  many  ranges  of  mountains.     The  principal 

151 


162 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


1!> 


ra»co  is  failed  the  Sierra  IVIa.lro.  Single  peaks  ..f  these 
m..untains  are  lifteen  thousand  to  eighteen  th..«sand 
feet  high,  and  snow  rests  ui-..n  their  summits  all  the 
year  round.  There  are  valleys  between  these  nu)un- 
tains  which  are  sometimes  green  and  fertile,  hut  more 

often  dry  and  dusty. 

Toward  the  south  two  parall'd  range  cross  the  pla- 
teau from  east  'o  v>-ii:t,  at  right  angles  with  tlit  Sierra 
Madre.  Many  o^  t^iese  mountains  are  shaped  hke  cones, 
and  have  deep  hoUows  in  their  summits.  They  are  vol- 
canoes, and  some  of  theui  are  still  active.  The  City  ot 
Mexico  is  situated  close  by  the  more  uonhern  of  these 
parallel  ranges  of  volcanoes. 

The  plateau  is  not  alwavs  of  the  same  height  through- 
out the  country.  It  rises  and  falls,  sometimes  in  a  series 
of  gradual  slopes,  sometimes  in  a  number  of  abrupt 
terraces.  From  the  United  States  boundary  the  plateau 
rises  in  easy  stages  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  Roughly 
.peaking,  it  may  be  said  to  rise  about  one  thousand  feet 
to  each  of  the  states  between  the  northern  border  and 

the  capital. 

The  central  plateau  of  Mexico  approaches  close  to  the 
Pacific  coast,  to  which  it  descends  in  steep,  rocky  ter- 
races. From  the  nature  of  the  shore  one  might  expect 
to  iind  many  good  harbors  on  this  coast,  but  there  are 

only  two. 

The  plateau  stretches  eastvvard  until  within  torty 
miles  of  the  Gulf,  where  it  stops  abruptly.  Conse- 
que^^tly  a  railroad  train  going  from  the  coast  to  the 
City  of  Mexico  has  to  climb  this  immens;e  cliff,  eigh; 
thousand  feet  in  height.     The  coa.t  bcrdering  on  the 


)f  these 
lousiiml 
all  the 
I  nioun- 
it  more 

the  pla- 
c  Sierra 
:e  cones, 
are  vol- 
City  of 
(»f  these 

through- 
1  a  series 
f  ahrupt 
i  plateau 
Roughly 
sand  feet 
rder  and 

)se  to  the 
ocky  ter- 
it  expect 
there  are 

hin  forty 
Conse- 
st  to  the 
!liff,  eigh: 
ig  on  the 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS, 


153 


Gulf  is  very  low  and  sandy.  There  are  no  good  harhoi-s, 
hecanse  sand  hars,  marshes,  and  salt  water  lakes  line  the 
whole  shore. 

Hecanse  of  the  hilly  nature  of  the  country,  the  rivers 
are  short  and  navigal)lc  only  a  little  distance  from  their 
mouths.  There  are  two  systems  of  rivers,  —  those  of 
the  (lulf  of  Mexico  and  those  of  the  Pacitic  sIojjc 

Most  oi  the  rivers  of  the  Pacific  slope  arc  scarcely 
more  than  streams  or  hrooks,  and  come  leaping  and 
l)ou.  (ling  down  the  rocky  terraces  to  the  sea.  Some 
have  cut  down  into  the  plateau  at  least  live  hundred 
feet  to  make  a  channel  for  themselves.  Far  helow,  their 
waters  can  be  heard  roaring  and  dialing  in  their  narrow 
beds. 

The  streams  that  flow  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  run 
slowly  and  sluggishly,  and  often  seem  to  lose  them- 
selves in  the  sand.  The  Uio  Grande  is  the  largest  river 
of  this  system,  but  it  is  like  the  others  in  being  navi- 
gable oidy  a  few  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  has  been  said 
"  to  flow  under  its  bed,"  because  of  the  many  sand  bars 
and  quicksands  that  appear  on  its  watei-s. 

There  are  but  a  few  lakes  in  Mexico,  and  these  are 
situated  on  the  plateau  between  the  mountains.  Some 
are  drained  by  rivers;  but  many  have  no  outlet,  and  so 
become  salt  and  continually  diminish  in  size.  There  are 
several  beautiful  little  lakes  al)out  the  City  of  Mexico, 
which,  by  reflecting  the  snowy  mountain  peaks  annuid 
them  in  their  clear  waters,  greatly  increase  the  beauty 
of  the  region. 

The  many  states  of  Mexico  may  be  divided  into  five 
groups.     There  are  the  northern  states,  where  the  dry. 


'n^-r> 


ffft 


154 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


% 


I 


(lusty  plains  arc  ovei<,'i()wn  with  cactusoH,  and  wIk-io 
the  (uittle  and  tlic  c..wh..ys  ian<,n-  iit  will  ;  tlu'io  an-  the 
rii'li,  silvei-uiining  states  in  the  eentre  of  the  eountry, 
elusteiing  alK)Ut  Zaeateeas  and  San  I>.)uis  IN.tosi ; 
thirdly,  there  arc  the  states  groni.ed  ahout  the  City  of 
Mexico,  which  produce  niaKuey  ;  fourthly,  to  the  east 
of  the  eapitJil  there  are  the  tohacco  states  on  the  (iulf ; 
and  lastly,  to  the  southwest,  the  coffee  and  cocoa  states. 
With  this  general  grouping  clear  in  the  mind,  let  ua 
turn  to  a  more  particular  study  of  Mexico. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

BY  RAIL  TO  THK  CITY   OF   MEXICO. 

To  an  American  boy,  the  passing  of  a  railroad  train  is 
as  common  a  sight  as  the  floating  cloud  in  the  sky.  He 
has  been  so  accustomed  to  its  whirl,  rattle,  and  swiftness, 
that  he  almost  forgets  that  there  ever  was  a  time  when 
the  steam  engine  was  a  new  and  wonderful  sight,  lo 
the  Mexican,  the  engine  is  still  a  marvel ;  for  it  is  only 
within  a  few  years  that  the  useful  "  iron  horse  "  crossed 

the  Rio  Grande. 

The  common  people  were  much  opposed  to  its  com- 
ing They  even  appealed  to  their  gods  to  protect  them 
against  it.  In  one  village,  they  bore  their  great  stone 
idol  to  the  track,  and  placed  him  between  the  shining 
steel  rails,  with  his  face  turned  forbiddingly  m  the 
direction  of  the  coming  train.     They  believed  that  he 


1  wlu'io 
I  are  tlie 
LH)untry, 

I'ntosi ; 

City  of 
the  east 
;»u  (lulf ; 
)a  states, 
d,  let  us 


,tl  train  is 
sky.  He 
swiftness, 
inie  when 
ight.  To 
it  is  only 
"  crossed 

)  its  com- 
itect  them 
reat  stone 
le  shining 
ly  in  the 
id  that  he 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


Ifiiy 


would  turn  hack   their  foe,  and  with  shouUs  of  praise 
they  waitcMJ  to  see  the  engine  (iiushed. 

At  length  the  train  ai>i)eared  in  the  distance,  and 
hreathlessly  they  watched  its  approach.  To  tlieir  auiaze- 
nient,  it  thniuh'rcd  l)y  unliurt,  and  th.eir  idol,  who  was 
to  have  saved  tlieni  from  this  suKtky  monster,  lay  shat- 
tered in  a  hundred  pieces  on  the  track. 

This  story  shows  what  tlie  steam  engine  is  to  do  for 
Mexico.  It  is  to  overthrow  all  the  narrow,  anti(  lated 
customs  that  she  has  held  for  centuries.  Her  gales 
have  heen  lirmly  closed  to  foreigners  and  foreign  im- 
provements, and  only  recently  have  they  Ijeen  slowly 
swinging  open  for  the  entrance  of  the  steam  engine,  the 
telegraph,  the  electric  light,  and  the  other  hlessings  of 
our  day.  Mexico  is  at  last  waking  up,  and  it  is  the 
ringing  of  the  engine  hell  that  has  been  her  sununons 
to  arise. 

Railroads  now  form  a  dense  network  throughout 
Mexico.  All  the  large  cities  are  reached  by  one  or 
more  lines  of  railroad.  The  Mexican  Central  runs  from 
the  Rio  Grande  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  Let  us  see 
what  impressions  of  the  country  we  may  obtain,  Iwith 
from  the  car  windows,  and  by  stopping  for  a  short  time 
in  one  or  another  of  the  large  cities  on  our  way. 

During  the  first  few  bundled  miles,  the  landscape  is 
somewhat  dull  and  monotonous.  Dark  brown  or  gray- 
ish plains  stretch  away  on  either  hand.  Here  and  there 
may  be  seen  tufts  of  coarse,  green  grass,  or  fleshy 
cactuses.  A  whirling  sandspout  is  no  uncommon  sight. 
The  distant  mountains  furnish  the  only  bit  of  color 
in  this  dreary  spot,  and  they  glow  with  rich  tint*!  of 


>-tTg"^gU-"^° ■    • 


fclp 


till 

f 

I'j; 


156 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


yollow  1X11(1  purplo.  If  wt'  wcn>  to  pass  hero  in  the 
niiiiy  season,  whidi  lasts  from  May  to  OctolKT,  tho 
plain  woiiia  Ik;  covfircl  with  coarsi'  ^nass ;  hut  now 
the  only  feililo  ii'<;ions  aiv  wlu'io  llu;  water  from  somo 
little  Inook  is  used  for  iirigation. 

Nowhere  does  the  railroad  i>ass  direetly  thron},di  a 
town  or  city,  'rhe  town  is  always  a  mile  away,  and 
is  reached  hy  horse  cars  across  the  plain.  Often,  in  the 
uarly  sunrise  aiul  in  the  late  s\uiset  the  towers  and 
donies  of  the  churches  and  the  walls  of  the  low  stone 
houses  are  bright  with  pink  and  purple,  or  yellow  and 

blue. 

Abmy  of  the  lonunon  [leople  are  seen  clustering  about 
the  railroad  station,  lloth  the  men  and  the  women  are 
excee(hngly  dark  and  plain.  They  have  straight,  <lark 
hair  and  lustreless  bhuk  eyes. 

The  men  are  dressed  in  coarse  cotton  trousers  and 
jackets,  and  are  wrapped  in  gay  blankets.  The  blankets 
of  the  very  poor  are  soiled  and  worn  to  tatters.  The 
real  pride  "of  the  Mexican  is  in  his  hat,  and  for  this  he 
saves  his  pennies  until  he  is  able  to  purchase  a  som- 
brero, with  a  high  crown,  wide  brim,  and  elalwirate 
decorations.  The  finer  the  hat,  the  better  the  man, 
according  to  the  Mexican  opinion. 

The  sombrero  is  of  fidt  or  straw,  with  a  brim  at  least 
six  inches  wide.  The  edge  of  the  brim  is  elaborately 
decorated  with  silver  eud)roidery  or  silver  buttons. 
About  the  crown  is  fastened  a  silver  band  and  buckle 
or  a  cord  ending  in  silver  tassels.  The  cost  of  a  som- 
brero is  sometimes  hundreds  of  dollars. 

The  outdoor  garment  of  the  women  is  a  kind  of  blue 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


lo7 


3  in  tlio 
ilicr,  till) 
but  now 
oni  sumu 

I  rough  a 
way,  and 
111,  in  thu 
,vei's  and 
(»w  Htono 
'How  anil 

m^  about 
■onion  are 
igbt,  dark 

users  and 
i  blankets 
ers.  The 
or  this  he 
se  a  som- 
olal)orate 
the  man, 

im  at  least 
^aborately 
r  buttons, 
md  buckle 
of  a  som- 

ind  of  blue 


cotton  scarf,  which  is  drapccl  ab(>\it  the  head  and  shoul- 
ders. Wlicn  a  woman  cariics  her  baby,  the  scarf  is 
arranjjed  s(»  as  to  form  a  kind  nf  homl  in  wiiirb  tlie 
l)id)y  is  slnn^'  at  ihf  side,  and  partially  supportt'd  on  tlie 
hip.  The  little  one  looks  very  pretty,  as  it  peeps  with 
its  bright  eyes  from  the  fohls  of  blue  drapery. 

Often  the  woman  earritis  upon  her  shoulder  at  the 
same  time  a  water  jar  of  dark  red  i)ottery.  One  would 
think  the  two  burdens  would  causc!  her  to  bend  and 
swav  in  her  walk.  Hut  it  is  not  so.  She  steps  as  freely 
and  gracefidly  as  if  she  Ixire  no  weight  at  all. 

The  little  children,  —  how  jaetty  they  are  I  They 
have  dark,  lustrous  eyes,  rosy  cheeks,  and  line  white 
teeth  that  gleam  roguishly  through  the  parting  red  lips. 
Dirty  and  poorly  clad  though  they  may  be,  they  seem 
the  joUicst,  hajjpiest,  little  people  imaginable. 

Now  we  are  entering  a  more  fertile  region.  Many 
tine  plantations  skirt  the  track.  Kaeh  plantation  con- 
sists of  several  ranches,  all  ruled  over  by  one  wealthy 
man.  They  sometimes  contain  more  than  two  hundred 
sipiare  miles,  and  include  hills,  valleys,  i)lains,  and  rivers. 
Small  villages  arise  within  the  plantations;  schools, 
churches,  and  sometinu'S  hospitals,  are  built  by  the 
owner  for  the  beneiit  of  the  workmen  and  their  families. 
As  we  whiz  past  the  i)laiitations,  interesting  glimpses 
are  obtained  of  fields  of  waving  Avheat;  Hocks  of  silky 
white  goats,  driven  by  goatherds;  and  herds  of  sturdy 
cattle,  foUowed  by  spirited  horsemen,  known  as  cow- 
boys. 

The  ranches  are  of  two  kinds,  —  fenced  and  luifenced. 
When  they  are  fenced,  except  at  branding  and  driving 


168 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE, 


11 


;1 


times,  the  work  of  tlie  cowboy  is  not  hard.  Each  has 
to  take  his  turn  at  line  riding,  tliat  is,  he  has  to  r-  'v/ 
along  the  line  of  tlie  fen(,'e  every  few  days,  to  see  that  it 
is  in  rei)air.  In  tliese  great  ranches  it  is  a  work  of  days  ; 
and  the  cowboy,  rolling  himself  in  his  blanket,  camjis 
at  night  whore  the  twilight  happens  to  overtake  him. 
He  sleejjs  under  the  open,  starry  sky,  with  his  horse 
quietly  grazing  near. 

When  the  ranches  are  not  enclosed,  the  cowboys  have 
to  be  continually  alert  that  the  tliousands  of  cattle  do 
not  stray  away. 

The  cowboy  is  a  wonderfully  fine  rider.  lie  and  his 
horse  are  inseparable.  The  latter  loves  his  mas'^i^ir  and 
obeys  his  slightest  word.  The  life  of  the  cowboy  is  a 
free,  happy,  outdoor  existence  ;  and  he  himself,  mounted 
on  horsel)ack,  in  l)uckskin  trousers,  fine  riding  boots,  and 
with  a  broad  sond)rero  shading  his  dark  face,  makes  a 
memorable  picture. 

Long  lines  of  mountains,  stained  purple,  gray,  and 
yellow  by  the  minerals  upon  their  surface,  have  been 
running  narallel  to  the  track,  although  at  a  distance 
from  it,  so  far  during  the  journey.  Now  the  mountains 
close  around  us,  and  we  find  ourselves  moving  in  zigzag 
lines  up  their  heights  to  the  city  of  Zacatecas. 

The  great  yawning  mines  and  the  small  granite  or 
marble  posts  which  mark  the  limits  of  claims,  all  bear 
testimony  to  th'i  fact  that  one  of  the  great  mining  cen- 
tres is  close  at  hand. 

Mexico  is  very  truly  said  to  have  a  backbone  of  silvei", 
with  ribs  of  gold.  The  Sierra  Madre  contains  rich  mines 
of  silver  through  the  greater  part  of  its  length. 


OUR  AMERICAS   NEIGHBORS. 


159 


I.  Eacli  has 
e  has  to  i"  -- 
to  see  that  it 
voik  of  (lays ; 
anket,  camps 
ivertake  him. 
ith  his  horse 

cowboys  have 
s  of  cattle  do 

lie  and  his 
lis  mas'^in'  and 
e  cotvboy  is  a 
iself,  mounted 
[incj  boots,  and 
face,  makes  a 

pie,  gray,  and 
,ce,  have  been 
at  a  distance 
the  mountains 
iving  in  zigzag 
:ecas. 

iiall  granite  or 
daims,  all  bear 
at  mining  cen- 

kbone  of  silver, 
tains  rich  mines 
ength. 


A  party  of  convicts  hiding  from  justice  were  the  first 
to  discover  this  hidden  wealth.  They  kindled  a  lire 
upon  some  boulders  wli'ijh  they  had  used  for  making  a 
rude  lireplace.  The  iire  so  heated  the  rocks  that  gleam- 
ing veins  of  silver  were  revealed  to  them.  Witli  great 
joy  they  informed  the  government  of  their  discovery, 
were  pardoned,  and  made  their  fortunes.  From  that 
time,  mining  has  been  one  of  the  chief  sources  of  wealth 
to  the  country. 

Suddenly  the  train  stops  on  the  summit  of  a  hill; 
and,  on  tlie  slopes  of  the  opposite  hillside,  eight  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  w^e  behold  the  city  or 
Zacatecas.  The  sunset  bght  reveals  its  narrow,  straight 
streets,  bordered  by  low  houses  of  but  one  story.  The 
walls  are  of  plaster,  tinted  bright  blue,  red,  green, 
I  ^.nd  yellow.     The  general  effect  of  the  streets,  sc  far  as 

color  is  concerned,  is  cheerful ;  but  as  the  houses  have 
no  windows  looking  out  ui)on  the  street,  the  blank  wall, 
however  brilliantly  colored,  becomes  in  time  extrejnely 
monotonous  and  wearisome. 

Above  all  the  city  towers  the  great  cathedral,  and 
high  on  a  neighboring  hill  a  cross  is  planted.  Those 
who  know,  say  that  Zacatecas  is  very  much  like  cities  in 
the  Holy  Land. 

All  about  the  hills  and  valleys  may  be  seen  proofs  of 
the  great  industry  of  the  city.  Mines  open  in  the  hill- 
sides, and  the  tall,  smoking  chimneys  of  refining  works 
lower  into  the  sky.  The  refining  works  are  well  forti- 
fied, and  capable  of  withstanding  attacks  of  mountain 
robbers  eager  to  reach  the  silver  prize  within. 

As  the  night  darkens,  men  laden  with  ore,  and  trains 


160 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


of  little  donkeys  bearing  the  same  precious  metal,  pass 
by  on  their  way  to  the  eity.  Donkeys,  or  burros,  as 
they  are  called  in  Mexico,  are  tiny  little  animals  vary- 
ing from  the  size  of  a  Newfoundland  dog  to  that  of  a 
heifer  three  years  old.  They  have  long  ears  and  mild, 
patient  faces.  Everywhere  in  Mexico  they  may  be  seen 
carrying  enormous  burdens  ;  and,  indeed,  tliey  are  often 
so  hidden  under  their  load  that  only  four  tiny,  trotting 
hoofs  and  the  tips  of  two  ears  aie  visible. 

As  we  wander  through  the  streets  of  Zacatecas, 
glimpses  of  beautiful  gardens  can  sometimes  be  ob- 
tained through  half-opened  doors.  Tlie  Mexican  houses 
turn  their  most  charming  side  inward.     They  are  built 

in  the  form  of  a  hollow 
square.  In  the  centre, 
and  protected  by  the 
encircling  walls  -of  the 
house,  is  the  court- 
yard, upon  which  the 
windows  look  and  the 
doors  open. 

This  courtyard  is  a 
beautiful  spot.  It  is 
thickly  carpeted  with 
green  turf,  with  pretty  paved  walks  encircling  and 
crossing  it.  In  the  centre  is  tfie  well,  with  a  broad 
stone  coping.  Shrubs  and  brilliant  flowers  are  to  be 
seen  everywhere,  and  the  rippling  of  the  fountain 
adds  its  charm  to  the  lovely  spot.  Gorgeous  parrots 
and  sweet-voiced  mocking  birds  hang  in  gilded  cages 
amongst  the   foliage  or  against  the  gi'ay  wall  of  the 


Mm- 


A    PATIENT    BURRO. 


I 


"»«««»«aia(*»'' 


letal,  pass 
Ijinros,  as 
iials  vary- 
that  of  a 
ind  mild, 
,y  be  seen 
are  often 
•,  trotting 

iacatecas, 
L>s  be  ob- 
an  houses 
are  built 
:  a  hollow 
lie  centre, 
d  by  the 
,11s -of  the 
le  eourfc- 
vhich  the 
i.  and  the 

;yard  is  a 
>t.  It  is 
eted  with 
cling  and 
1  a  broad 
are  to  be 
fountain 
us  parrots 
ded  cages 
ill  of  the 


T 


1 


Mpf. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


IGl 


house;  vain  peacocks  strut  about;  and  a  Hock  of  gray 
doves  now  Huttci'  ovcrlicad,  and  now  swing  slowly  down 
to  tlie  pavement.  Children  [irattlc  und  run  about; 
and  the  dark-eyed,  languid  women  of  tlie  liouseiio'd 
either  doze  in  the  hammocks  swung  between  tlie  stone 
posts  of  the  liouse,  or  busy  themselves  with  their  won- 
derful lacework,  line  as  a  cobwelj. 

The  next  large  city  on  the  route  to  Mexico  is  Aguas 
C'alientes,  wliich  means  in  Knglisli,  hot  springs.  Tlie 
hot  si)rings  for  which  tiie  city  is  named  and  noted  lie 
in  the  midst  of  a  rich  plain.  Uath  houses  are  built  over 
the  s[)rings,  and  contain  rooms  littcd  up  for  sponge, 
douche,  and  swimming  baths. 

The  bather  cliooses  the  kind  of  a  bath  tliat  he  will 
take  ;  and  tluii  lie  is  shown  into  an  a[)artment  with 
higli,  stone  walls,  open  overhead  +o  the  deep  blue  sky. 
The  tank  is  often  S(piare,  and  is  reached  l)y  descending 
a  few  stone  steps.  The  dc[)th  and  tcm[)ei-ature  of  the 
water  is  arranged  according  to  the  wisli  of  the  bather. 

Tlie  water,  as  it  escapes  from  the  bath  house,  runs 
through  a  walled  ditch  by  the  side  of  the  road.  'J'he 
water  in  the  ditch  is  about  three  feet  deep ;  and  here, 
at  all  times,  may  be  seen  crowds  of  men,  women,  and 
children  enthusiastically  washing  their  clothes.  After 
they  spi-ead  these  on  the  gmss  to  dry,  they  bathe  them- 
selves. 

No  one  who  has  ever  seen  this  busy  scrubbing  crowd 
could  believe  that  th'-  natural  tendency  of  the  Mexican 
was  not  toward  cleanliness.  Tlie  reason  why  his  gar- 
ments and  himself  are  generally  dirty  is  that  water  in 
most  of  the  cities  of  INIexico  is  not  easily  obtained.     He 


^^SfttlR 


162 


THE  WORLD   AND   ITS    PECPLE. 


has  either  to  wait,  hours  at  the  puhUc  fountain  for  a 
chance  to  fill  his  water  jar  or  to  buy  water  from  the 

water  carrier. 

The  poorer  Mexican  cannot  afford  to  patronize  the 
water  carrier,  and  so  goes  unwashed.  But  wherever 
water  is  abundant  and  free,  as  in  the  city  of  Aguas 
Calientes,  there  the  Mexican  is  scrupulously  clean. 

Guanajuato,  one  of  the  quaintest,  most  old-fivshioned 
cities  in  the  world,  must  not  be  passed  by.  It  is  one  of 
the  many  mining  cities  of  Mexico,  and  is  situated  in  a 
ravine  between  lofty,  upright  cliffs.  The  houses  are 
built  on  the  sides  of  the  cliffs,  and  cling  to  their  faces, 
as  frightened  birds  cling  to  the  perpendicular  bars  of 
their  cages.  One  is  almost  afraid  to  breathe  lest  the 
delicately  balanced  buildings  should  tumble  into  the 
valley  below,  a  mass  of  ruins. 

The  streets  are  nari-ow,  some  of  them  not  more  than 
a  yard  wide.  In  some  cases  the  people  ascend  from 
terrace  to  terrace  by  llight«  of  staira.  The  lumses  of 
the  poorer  class  are  built  of  coarse  clay,  and  huddle 
closely  together  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town.  The 
better  class  of  houses  are  built  of  a  kind  of  variegated 
stone  which  is  found  in  the  neighborhood,  and  are  of 
many  colors.  Some  are  red,  some  green,  othera  blue, 
and  still  others  the  color  of  ciiocolate. 

This  is  the  only  city  in  Mexico  where  the  houses  are 
more  than  one  or  two  stories  in  height.  Here  they  are 
of  four  stories,  Avith  a  great  court  on  the  flat  roof  con- 
taining fountains  and  flowers.  The  effect  of  these  lofty 
courts,  or  sky  parlors,  as  they  might  be  called,  is 
unusual  and  very  pretty. 


-■•""•s^KfaBiMaujj^-t" 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


163 


iiui  for  a 
I'loiii  the 

oiiize  the 
wherever 
)£  Aguiis 
eiui. 
fashioned 

is  one  of 
lilted  in  a 
ouses  are 
leir  faees, 
ir  bars  of 
e  lest  the 

into  the 

more  than 
lend  from 
htmses  of 
id  huddle 
iwn.  The 
variegated 
Liid  are  of 
-hera  blue, 

houses  are 
re  they  are 
t  roof  con- 
these  lofty 
called,  is 


In  Guanajuato  one  is  always  climbing  up  or  going 
down  hill.  Such  interesting  glimpses  into  the  life  of 
the  city  as  may  be  obtained  from  ditfercnt  parts  of  the 
hillside!  To  the  left  is  the  courtyard  of  a  i)ottery 
manufactory,  where  the  graceful  vessels  of  reddish  clay 
glitter  in  die  sunlight  like  rubies;  directly  below  lies 
the  green  s(piare  of  the  central  courtyard  of  the  city, 
the  plaza,  as  it  is  called,  surrounded  by  the  church 
and  other  important  buildings;  to  the  right  a  most 
curious  sight  awaits  our  attention.  In  an  open  court- 
yard many  mules  and  Indians  are  marching  about  in 
reguLir  order,  trampling  down  a  mass  of  clay  two  feet 
in  depth. 

What  is  the  object  of  this  sic,/,  painful  labor?  It  is 
to  separate  the  silver  from  the  clay.  For  three  hundred 
years  the  work  lias  been  carried  on  in  just  this  way. 
An  attempt  has  been  made  to  use  steam  power  for  this 
work,  but  it  is  so  expensive  and  Indian  labor  is  so  cheap 
that  the  old-fashioned  way  is  still  followed.  Week  after 
week,  year  after  year,  the  Indian  toils  on,  with  no  more 
animation  than  if  lie  were  a  machine,  or  tlie  patient 
mule,  his  fellow  laborei-.  He  works  until  he  dies,  after 
a  life  shortened  by  his  unhealthy  toil. 

The  hills  about  Guanajuato,  like  those  about  Zacateca.s 
and  the  other  mining  cities  of  Mexico,  are  tunneled  by 
mines  and  capped  by  silver  refineries.  The  mines  can 
be  visited,  but  it  is  a  very  tedious  and  dangerous  under- 
taking. 

Some  workmen  spend  twelve  hours  a  day  in  the 
mines  —  six  hours  in  working  and  six  in  going  down 
into  the  mines  and  returning.     The  vein  in  which  the 


»>»«'«B(BuB;jii**t»  " 


104 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


men  are  at  work  is  a  throe  hours'  journey  from  the  clear 
sunlight  and  the  fresh  air. 

Terrible  dangers  attend  their  daily  descent.  Shrouded 
in  thick  (hirkness,  they  move  along  on  the  edge  of  hor- 
rible i)recipices,  scale  rickety  ladders  which  are  not 
fastened  to  the  terraces  that  they  connect,  and  go 
through  passages  as  narrow  as  the  grave,  —  all  witli  the 
knowledge  that  a  false  step  means  a  fall  of  hundreds  of 
feet,  with  certain  death  at  the  bottom. 

We  return  to  Guanajuato  in  a  horse  car  drawn  by 
mules.  The  driver  is  armed  with  a  iish  horn,  with  which 
he  warns  Avagons  and  people  off  the  track.  Sometimes 
the  blasts  of  the  horn  are  very  frequent,  as  the  road 
from  the  mines  is  blocked  with  burros,  carrying  their 
usual  miscellaneous  burdens. 

One  is  laden  with  leathern  bags  of  silver  ore  ;  another 
carries  nets  of  large  oranges  to  be  sold  in  the  city  at 
the  rate  of  one  hundred  for  seventy-five  cents ;  a  third 
l)ears  a  crate  of  live  turkeys ;  a  fourth,  bags  of  charcoal ; 
and,  funniest  of  all,  a  fifth  small  burro  carries,  strapped 
on  his  back,  an  innnense  black  pig,  which  keeps  up  a 
continuous  squealing  and  grunting.  The  burro,  how- 
ever, does  not  seem  to  mind  the  antics  of  his  animated 
burden,  but,  with  hanging  head,  keeps  doggedly  on  his 

way. 

The  fields  around  Guanajuato  are  fenced  with  the 
organ-pipe  cactus.  This  prickly^  plant  grows  in  long, 
close  stalks  which  do,  indeed,  resemble  the  upright  pipes 
of  an  organ.  They  are  two  or  three  inches  thick,  and, 
growing  as  they  do  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high, 
they  form  a  hedge  so  close  and  compact  that  one  must 


Nk?. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


165 


lie  clear 

iroiidcd 
of  lior- 
xre  not 
and  go 
nth  the 
Ireds  of 

awn  by 
h  which 
inetimes 
lio  road 
ig  their 

another 
!  city  at 
a  third 
harcoal ; 
strapped 
ps  up  a 
ro,  how- 
jiiniated 
y  on  his 

vith  the 
in  long, 
jht  pipes 
ick,  and, 
;ct  high, 
ine  must 


grow  wings  to  pass  the  boundary  at  any  spot,  other 
than  tlie  gate  itself. 

The  i)roduct*)  of  the  different  towns  are  offered  for 
sale  at  the  various  stations  on  the  road.  In  one  place 
beautiful  roses  can  l)e  purchased  at  the  rate  of  six  cents 
for  a  bunch  as  large  as  the  head.  Pretty  Indian  bas- 
kets of  grass,  full  of  strawberries,  are  offered  for  sale  at 
twenty-five  cents  apiece.  But,  alas,  one  finds  thac  the 
Mexicans  are  frauds,  so  far  as  the  trick  of  heaping  the 
ri])e  berries  temptingly  on  the  top  is  concerned !  Fully 
one-half  of  the  basket  is  filled  with  cabbage  leaves;  then 
comes  a  layer  of  green  berries;  and,  lastly,  there  are 
about  twenty-five  sweet,  red,  delicious  berries,  most  art- 
fully arranged. 

At  (^ueretaro  the  tourist  buys  opals.  Ilandfuls  of 
the  uncut  stones  are  passed  in  at  the  car  window.  Ex- 
clamatitms  of  wonder  and  delight  follow;  and,  as  the 
shining  gems  are  shifted  from  hand  to  hand,  taking 
lovely  colors  in  the  sunshine,  tlic  traveler's  heart 
and  purse  are  won,  and  he  buys  scores  for  a  very 
small  sum. 

The  opals  are  alwut  the  size  of  one's  thumb  nail,  and 
are  yellow,  green,  and  red  in  color.  They  are  mostly 
of  inferior  quality,  and  would  nirely  pay  for  cutting. 
Occasionally,  however,  a  gem  of  value  is  discovered. 

And  now  certain  changes  in  the  landscape  show  that 
the  capital  is  near.  The  roads  widen,  the  fields  are 
greener  and  show  a  more  careful  cultivation,  the  vil- 
lages and  towns  become  more  numerous,  and  the  people 
crowd  the  streets  more  densely.  Those  great  stone 
arches,  riuining  [jarallel  Avith  the  track,  are  the  aque- 


sssBSUksiitii^ii*'      -^jbllW   ..    """""  ^"^■ri. 


16G 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


ducts  which  supply  the  city  with  water  from  the  neigh- 
boring hills. 

Are  tliose  clouds  high  in  the  air?  No ;  they  are  not 
clouds.  They  are  su(.  '-coverer  mnntains,  the  great 
volmnof^sof  Popcatai.  *i  a^^.  i  !i.o  ihuatl;  nadlwUn 
them,  with  its  ilomes,  tvu  -  ;j.  :  .  "vos,  aud  the  white  walls 
of  it«  many  houses,  'lin.^  ■  n.  'h-,  southern  sunlight, 
lies  the  very  heart  of  all  the  uountr^,,     ;^  City  of  Mexico. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


IN  THE  CAPITAL. 


The  City  of  Mexico  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  cir- 
cular plain,  thirty-five  miles  in  diameter.  The  plain  is 
surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  the  most  conspicuous 
of  which  are  Popocatapetl  and  Iztaccihuatl,  the  white 
volcanoes  which  lie  to  the  southeast.  On  the  surface 
of  the  plain  of  Mexico  are  several  lakes,  among  which, 
in  the  very  lowest  and  most  marshy  spot,  is  built  the 
city  itself. 

The  foundations  of  many  of  the  houses  are  covered 
with  water.  As  there  is  practically  no  drainage  and 
very  little  knowledge  of  the  laws  of  health,  there  would 
be  many  more  deaths  than  there  are,  if  it  were  not  for 
the  perfect  climate  and  the  healthful  elevation  of  the 
city.  Lake  Chalco,  the  fresh  water  lake  from  which 
Mexico  is  supplied  with  water  by  aqueducts,  lies  to  the 
south  ;  and  Lake  Tuzcoca,  a  brackish  pond  with  white, 
chalky  shores,  to  the  east. 


-  <•-  •~>v..i«i^,,aj^jjjj,^jj^*. 


:rrT~ 


¥'^ 


UR  AMERICAN    NEKjHBOR?. 


1G7 


1  neigh- 
are  not 
3  great 
X  l)elo\ 
tc  walls 
unlight, 
Mexico. 


of  a  cir- 
plain  is 
spicuous 
le  white 
surface 
g  which, 
iuilt  the 

covered 
age  and 
re  would 
e  not  for 
n  of  the 
m  whidi 
es  to  the 
th  white, 


Mexico  is  hu.t  in  the  form  of  a  square,  three  nii'ics 
on  a  side.  Ti  streen  are  all  very  straight,  ai.d  run 
f'-oni  north  t"  south  and  from  east  to  west.  They  are 
broad,  well  paved,  aiw'  ligl'tctt  by  gas.  Often  tlie  vista 
of  a  street  seems  to  he  tilled  by  a  groat  mountain,  whicli 
appears  close  at  hand,  but  is,  in  realit}',  miles  distant. 

Tlie  houses  bordering  the  streets  are  generally  of  two 
stories,  enclosing  a  courtyard.  Tiiey  have  the  usual 
pretty  tints  of  red,  pink,  yellow,  and  cream  color;  l)ut 
are  unlike  the  houses  we  have  noticed  lun'etofore,  in 
having  a  few  windows  witli  small  balconies  looking 
upon  the  street.  On  festive  occasions  the.se  bidcoiiics, 
when  filled  with  the  brightly  dressed  women  of  llie 
household,  add  much  beauty  to  the  monotonous  street. 

The  ladies  of  the  higher  class  do  not  wear  the  re.hoza, 
which  is  cidy  for  the  lower  class  of  women.  They 
throw  over  their  heads  and  draw  over  the  lower  part  of 
their  faces,  up  to  their  eyes,  elegant  Spanisli  lace  scarfs. 
The  young  girls  are  charmingly  pretty,  with  their  slen- 
der oval  faces,  olive  skins,  dark  eyes,  delicate  features, 
and  little  hands  and  feet. 

Any  of  the  i)rincipal  streets  will  bring  us  into  the 
Great  Plaza.  This  is  a  large  square  garden,  about 
which  stand  the  Cathedral,  the  National  Palace,  and 
other  important  public  buildings.  The  plaza  is  very 
beautiful  with  shady  walks,  brilliant  flower  beds,  and 
stone  seats  where  one  may  rest  and  enjoy  the  beautiful 
view  before  him. 

The  plaza  is  al  .vays  a  lively  spot.  The  common  peo- 
ple have  many  stalls  here  at  which  they  offer  for  sale 
fruits,  flowers,  small  sugar  cakes,  and  the  various  hot 


W 


Y'^"-—iK<f- — 


108 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE, 


little  (lislios  of  which  the  averaKi^  ^I^'xic^an  is  so  fond. 
Women  sitting  on  the  piivenient  hoside  a  rude  stone 
oven,  will  hake  for  you,. while  you  wait,  a  hot  cake  the 
size  of  a  lima  hean. 

At  stated  times  during  the  week,  the  hand  plays  in 
the  i.laza,  drawing   large  crowds  of   this  music-loving 


THE   CATHEDRAL   OF   MEXICO. 

ncnplc.  The  various  lines  of  horse  cars  start  here,  and 
the  throng  of  worshipei-s  entering  or  leaving  the  cathe- 
dral cross  the  plaza,  which  might  be  called  the  pulse  of 
Mexico,  80  strongly  does  the  city's  life  throb  through  it. 
The  Mexican  cathedral  with  its  twin  towers  and 
mighty  dome,  rises  .m  the  northern  side  of  the  plaza. 
It  is  tiie  largest  church  in   America,  and  is  hudt  m  the 


80  fond, 
lie,  stoiio 
cake  the 

plays  in 
sic-loving 


,  here,  and 
the  cathe- 
le  pulse  of 
through  it. 
owei's  and 
the  plaza, 
uilt  in  the 


>«. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


160 


shape  of  a  Greek  cross.     Its  length,  its  greatest  dimen- 
sion, is  over  four  Imndred  feet. 

The  cathedral  was  over  one  hundred  yeai-s  in  huilding. 
We  can  easily  helieve  that  faet  when  we  notice  its  great 
magnilicenee  hoth  within  and  without.  'Die  walls  alone 
cost  two  million  dollars.  'I'hey  are  of  granite,  much 
carved  and  otherwise  ornamented.  Within  this  great 
shell  there  art!  many  chapels.  Three  of  them  are  so 
large  that  wiusn  the  hron/.e  doors  connecting  them  with 
the  main  catliedral  are  closed,  three  large  churches  an; 
formed  in  which  services  are  sometimes  held  at  the 
same  time. 

The  dome  is  gorgeously  painted  with  great  figures 
illustrating  Hihle  stories ;  the  piUars  of  the  altars  are  of 
clear,  green  stone,  resend)ling  malarhite  in  color,  while 
the  altars  themselves  are  one  blaze  of  gold  and  silver. 

The  ladings  leading  to  the  princii)al  altar  and  sur- 
ronnding  it,  are  a  very  rich  alloy  of  gold,  silver,  and 
coi)per.  An  offer  has  been  made  to  exchange  this  rail- 
ing for  one  of  solid  silver;  but  so  rich  is  the  present 
railing  in  gold,  that  those  in  authority  have  always 
refused  th(!  oft'er. 

Everything  about  the  cathedral  bears  testimony  to 
its  asre  and  wealth.  The  iiriests  have  robes  so  ricdi  and 
heavy  in  ornaments,  so  enduoidercd  in  gold  and  adoined 
with  gems,  that  they  can  scarcely  be*  worn.  Everywhere 
are  large  and  brilliant  paintings,  and  the  books  are  cov- 
ered with  fine  vellum. 

Without  the  church,  at  the  foot  of  the  western  tower, 
half  hidden  under  flowering  vines,  lies  a  heap  of  broken 
columns  and  curiously  carved  stones.     Ovi-r  them  is 


170 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


this  inscription:  "Stones  iVoni  (lie  Moody  iiltur  of 
Hiiil/ili»[iol/.tli." 

Nt'iirly  four  iiundrcd  yours  ii^'o,  wlicii  ihc  early  Span- 
ish  discoverer,  Corte/.,  came  to  Mexico,  lu!  found  a 
heatiien  altar  to  the  jfod  of  the  Aztecs,  where  the 
Mexican  eathc(hal  now  stands.  'I'lu;  temple  was  eone- 
sliajK'd,  and  ahont  it  wound  a  staircase  l.'iidinj^  to  the 
altar  at  the  summit.  Up  this  stairway  on  },Meat  relig- 
ious feast  days  wound  long  trains  of  ca[»tive.s  taken  in 
war.  The  priests  received  them,  and,  laying  then>  one 
by  one  on  the  great  sacriticial  stone,  tore  out  their 
liearts  and  held  them  high  in  the  air  as  an  offering  to 
the  stern  god. 

This  sucriiieial  stone  can  he  seen  at  the  National 
Museum  with  many  other  reli(%s  of  that  ancient  time. 
Here  are  the  old  itlols.  either  whole  or  in  fragments; 
and  here  is  also  the  ( 'alendar  Stone  of  the  Aztecs.  '  This 
is  a  large,  circular  stone  covered  with  cliaraeteix  so 
strange  that,  although  many  learned  men  have  tried  to 
deei|)her  them,  none  have  succeeded. 

The  eastern  end  of  the  plaza  is  occupied  by  the  Na- 
tional I'alace.  This  is  a  very  hing,  low  structure  with 
many  rows  ui  windows.  A  i)art  of  the  palace  (U)ntains 
the  private  home  of  the  President,  and  the  rest  is  taken 
up  hy  government  ollices.  An  ohservatory  and  the  oilice 
of  the  weather  bureau  is  also  located  in  this  buihiing. 

it  is  Sundiiy  morning  in  the  city  of  jNIexico.  From 
early  dawn  the  i;hurch  bells  have  been  ringing.  The 
Mexiciin  I)eU  ringers  lU'ver  move  the  bells  themselves; 
they  merely  move  the  tongues.  ConseipuMitly,  the 
sound  of  the  bell  is  not  a  deep,  mellow  roll  as  it  is  in 


'•i*4«tertij^i**  '     -^f. 


iiltiir   of 

•ly  Span- 
I'diiikI  il 
I  It*  10    tlio 

k'llS  COIU!- 

IX  ti)  tlio 
lat  I'L'lig- 
tiikcn  ill 
liciu  Olio 
lit  tlioir 
I'oring  to 

Niitioiial 
•lit  time, 

IjrllU'lltS  ; 

;h.  •  This 

ilCtOl-S    HO 

)  tiioil  to 

{  tlie  Na- 
turo  with 
contains 
,  is  taken 
tho  ollico 
ihiiiifj. 
).  From 
ipf.  Tho 
insolves ; 
itly,  tho 
,s  it  is  ill 


\    . 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


171 


tho  riiitod  States,  liiit  a  Icehlc  little  note  very  apt  to 
ho  enieked. 

Tho  (liseordant  sounds  of  llu!  niaiiy  hoUs  inijrjit  ulinost 
(hstraet  tho  traveler  il'  it  were  not  that  the  iiioriiiii^f 
itself  is  heautiful  eiioiii^h  to  drive  all  adverse  critieisin 
away,  'i'ho  sky  is  clear  hiue,  the  sun  hri^dit,  tiu;  trei'S 
and  gi'iiss  a  vivid  >,M'eeii,  and  tho   eoniin(»ii   people,  on 


THE    NATIONAL    PALACE,    MEXICO. 

thoii-  way  to  morninj,'  mass,  look  very  elean  in  their 
frosldy  starohod  jrannents. 

Mass  is  said  in  tho  oatluidral  every  hour.  All  throuj,'h 
tho  morning  the  j^ioat  doors  are  opening  and  shutting 
after  the  entering  and  depai'ting  crowds. 

After  ehureh  many  of  tho  i)eoplo  prooeod  to  do  their 
marketing.  South  of  tho  plaza  is  one  of  tho  principal 
markets  of  tho  I'ity.  We  will  l\  i\v  the  throng  and 
see  what  a  IMo'xieaii  market  is  like. 


.- ■.^,«i-ia*wi^j^K!?#'''     ■isll^'" 


172 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


Befoi-o  i^s  is  a  great,  square,  stone  laiilding  entered 
by  four  doors,  one  in  tlie  centre  of  eacli  side.  Within 
is  a  large  courtyard,  only  part  of  winch  is  roofed.  Open 
booths  stand  beneath  tlie  covered  part  of  the  courtyard ; 
while  those  booths  which  are  in  the  uncovered  part,  are 
protected  by  means  of  oblong  pieces  of  matting,  sup- 
ported on  pcles.  Beneath  the  mattings,  the  women  and 
children  sit  on  the  ground  and  display  their  goods. 

Here  housekeepera  can  purchase  all  the  vegistables, 
fruits,  and  meats  necessary  for  an  excellent  dinner. 
Potatoes  the  size  of  walnuts,  chile  peppers,  beans  of 
every  imaginable  siz3  and  shape,  gigantic  sfpiashes,  tiny 
carrots  and  onions,  all  are  arranged  in  tempting  heaps 
on  the  ground.  Luscious  oranges  and  great  sweet  mel- 
ons are  piled  up  on  every  side. 

]\Ien  with  fowls  in  hencoops  wander  about  the  market, 
looking  for  a  customer.  A  young  Indian  girl  offers  you 
a  pair  of  live  chickens,  wliieh  she  liolds  by  the  legs. 

Some  cooking  goes  on  behind  these  stalls.  The  uni- 
versal fortlUu,  botli  fried  and  baked,  can  be  bought  here. 
The  silent,  busy  Mexican  woman  rolls  and  beats  the 
flour  into  a  circular  shape  upon  a  large,  flat  stone  ;  then 
she  drops  it  into  a  frying  pan,  occasionally  dusting  it 
with  an  herby  powder,  and  dipping  the  fat  over  it. 
After  a  few  moments  it  is  cooked,  and  handed  to  the 
customer.  Fowls  stewed  with  chile  beans,  and  beans 
cooked  in  various  other  ways,  are  also  offered  for  sale. 

The  dec})  red  iNIexiean  pottery  is  displayed  in  a  few 
stalls.  The  shapes  are  very  graceful,  and  the  ware 
appears  strong;  but  it  is,  in  reality,  very  frail  and  deli- 
cate.     Iler'i,  also,  the  most  beautiful  flowera  can   be 


^SfJ 


ding  entered 
;ide.  Within 
3ofed.  Open 
:ie  courtyard ; 
ered  part,  are 
matting,  sup- 
le  women  and 
ir  goods. 
le  vegetables, 
>llent  dinner. 
)er>s,  beans  of 
5(|uasbes,  tiny 
nipting  heaps 
iat  sweet  mel- 

it  the  market, 
^irl  offers  you 
■  the  legs. 
[Is.  The  uni- 
3  bought  here. 
md  beats  the 
it  stone ;  then 
Uy  dusting  it 
;3  fat  over  it. 
landed  to  the 
ns,  and  beans 
vered  for  sale, 
iiyed  in  a  few 
and  the  ware 
frail  and  deli- 
iowei"s  can  be 


\'. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


173 


bought  for  a  few  pennies.  We  see  roses,  pansics,  helio- 
trope, and  cajni'lias  of  the  most  excpiisile  coloring. 

The  Mexican  ilowers  are  remarivable  for  tlic  dei)th 
and  intensify  of  their  tints.  The  red  is  more  vivid,  the 
pink  more  dainty,  the  white  purer,  the  yellow  more 
glowing,  tlian  can  be  seen  elsewhere.  Tlicn  tlie  tlowers 
are  remarkable  for  tlieir  size.  The  pansy  is  as  lai'ge  as 
a  dollar,  and  a  pop[)y  would  cover  a  dinner  plate. 

The  growing  ])lants  are  large  in  proportion.  Think 
of  geraniums  the  height  of  a  tall  man,  and  rhododen- 
drons twenty  feet  high!  Tliese  are  not  unusual  cases, 
but  customary  sights  ;  for  the  lovely  Ilowers  lavish  their 
beauty  all  over  this  regif)n,  —  calla  lilies  lifting  their 
fail-,  stately  heads  from  the  ditch  at  the  roadsid",  and 
p.ippies  ilourisliing  in  neglected  corners  of  the  Held. 

After  laying  in  a  store  of  the  various  good  tlungs 
which  the  market  affords,  the  iNIexicans  return  to  tluur 
homes,  partake  of  a  liglit  noonday  meal,  and  rest  during 
the  heat  of  the  day. 

Five  o'clock  iinds  nearly  every  one  in  the  fashionable 
drive  of  the  city.  This  is  a  broad  road,  tbree  miles  in 
length,  leading  southward  to  the  Castle  of  C'liapultepec. 

At  regular  interval'^  in  the  road,  circular  flower  beds 
are  tastefully  i)lanted.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  govern- 
ment to  place  a  statue  of  some  national  hero  in  the  centre 
of  each  flower  bed,  but  as  yet  only  three  of  the  plots  are 
thus  adorned.  The  broad  drive,  winding  about  these 
eight  circles,  shaded  by  large  trees  and  boidered  by 
lawns  and  shrubbery,  is  a  very  attractive  spot. 

On  Sundays  the  people  of  wealth  and  fashion  drive 
here,  while  the  po  )rer  classes  either  walk  in  the  park. 


fSv, 


i;.l  .i.|^iin»ip..~- 


174 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


or  rest  on  the  benehes  beside;  the  road.  Most  of  the 
carriages  are  elegant;  the  horses  are  hne,  spirited  erea- 
tures;  and  servants  in  livery  attend  the  beautiful  dark- 
eyed  ladies,  who  are  wrapi)ed  in  laee  mantillas.  Horse- 
men eurvet  and  prance  along  the  drive,  bowing  low  to 
the  friends  they  meet. 

Some  of  the  horses  have  trappings  fit  for  the  steed  ot 
a  prince.  The  saddlecloth  is  embroidered  with  silver, 
and  edged  with  silver  fringe.  The  saddle  and  bridle 
are  heavily  inlaid  with  silver;  while  the  riding  coat  and 
sombrero  of  the  horseman  are  richly  ornamented  with 
fringe,  buttons,  and  cords  of  the  same  metal. 

Three  miles  south  of  Mexico,  at  the  end  of  the  avenue, 
a  mass  of  rock  about  two  hundred  feet  high  lises  abruptly. 
On  the  summit  of  this  gray  rock  is  built  the  Castle  of 
Chapultepec,  which  is  reached  by  a  road  winding  through 
the  cypress  grove  at  the  base  of  the  cliff  up  to  its  top. 

This  cypress  wood  is  very  ancient.  One  tree,  called 
Montezuma's  tree,  iS  over  forty  feet  in  circumference, 
and  must  be  ai  least  three  centuries  old.  Clambering 
about  the  giant  f  aiiks,  festooning  the  boughs,  and  link- 
ing cypress  with  cypress  grows  the  gray  Spanish  moss. 
The  drive  through  the  shadowy  wood  up  to  the  small, 
open  hilltop  is  charming. 

The  Castle  of  Chapultepec  is  used  by  the  president  ot 
Mexico  as  a  summer  residence.  It  has  been  redecorated 
and  refurnished  iu  the  most  exquisite  taste.  A  part  of 
the  building  is  occupied  by  the  Mexican  military  acad- 
emy. There  are  three  hundred  boys  at  school  here 
learning  the  art  of  war. 

These  slender,  dark-eyed  soldier  boys   show  you  a 


---'■■'■f--s.v^.:t',}^Z^,Si 


-mm^^<^ 


it  of  the 
ted  crea- 
fiil  (laik- 
Ilorse- 
[g  low  to 

steed  of 
th  silver, 
nd  bridle 

coat  and 
ited  with 

le  avenue, 
1  abruptly. 
Castle  of 
g  through 
its  top. 
ree,  called 
imference, 
lambering 
,  and  link- 
iiish  moss, 
the  small, 

resident  of 
edecorated 
A  part  of 
itary  acad- 
chool  here 

low  you  a 


N-1. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


175 


tablet  erected  to  the  memory  of  tlie  ciidets  who  fell 
lighting  against  the  United  States  troojjs,  in  tlie  l)attle, 
during  the  ^Mexican  War,  that  occurred  at  the  foot  of 
C'liapultepec. 

The  young  soldiers  bcu'e  themselves  like  heroes;  and 
their  successors  at  tlie  present  day  say,  witli  flashing 
eyes,   tliat    ii"   tlie    legnlar   troops    had    e(|ualled    these 


THE    CASTLE    OF    CHAPULTEPEC. 


young  voliuiteere  in  bravery,  the  United  Sts'tes  ^v'ould 
never  have  taken  the  capital. 

The  view  from  Chapultepec  is  one  of  the  widest  and 
most  beautiful  in  Mexico.  The  whole  circular  valley  is 
seen  belo\v,  with  its  lakes,  its  richly  cultivated  fields,  its 
canals,  its  stone-arched  aqueducts,  and  the  city  itself  at 
its  centre.  All  around  stand  the  mountains,  with  Popo- 
catapetl  and  Iztaccihuatl  highest  of  them  all. 


iJ**fe^^JK«S#-" 


batiW^. 


176 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


IztiU'ciliUiitl  incaiis  "  Snowy  Maidon,"  and,  from  some 
points  ot"  the  compass,  the  snow  upon  her  sunnnit  and 
the  g'hic'iei"s  on  her  sides  eoml)ine  to  h)ok  precisely  as 
it"  a  maiden,  witli  ehis[)C'd  liands  and  eh)sed  eyes,  were 
lying  there  in  deathlike  sUunher. 

I'opoeatapetl  means  "  Smoky  Mountain,"  and  he,  the 
Mexicans  say,  looks  on  in  grim  sorrow  at  the  eternal 
slumber  of  the  "Suowy  Maiden."  If  you  ask,  they  will 
tell  you  a  little  romance  which  has  the  two  mountains 
for  the  hero  and  the  heroine. 

Sunday  evening  is  spent  l)y  high  and  low  in  the  plaza. 
The  l)and  plays  sweet  nuisic,  and  the  Mexicans  stroll 
through  the  avenues,  lighted  by  the  moon,  amid  fragrant 
flowers  and  singing  birds.  Thus  the  day  pleasantly 
ends.     Sunday  in  Mexico  is  In  fact  a  gala  day. 

One  pleasant  excursion  from  Mexico  is  up  the  Viga 
canal  to  the  floating  gardens  of  I^ake  Chalco."  This 
canal  connects  Lake  Chalco  with  the  City  of  Mexico, 
and  forms  the  highway  down  which  the  vegetables  raised 
on  the  floating  gardens  are  brought  to  the  markets. 

It  is  not  a  very  agreeable  section  of  the  city  where 
we  einl)ark.  But  our  flat-bottomed  boat  is  soon  speed- 
ing over  the  water,  propelled  by  the  brawny  arms  of  the 
Indian  boatman.  He  is  dressed  in  white  cottoji ;  and, 
squatting  on  the  floor  of  the  boat,  shoving  txith  the 
pole,  now  on  one  side,  now  on  the  other,  he  gi  ^es  the 
boat  a  swaying  movement  which  soon  becomes  very 
agreeable. 

We  pass  many  market  boats  piled  with  pale  green 
cabbages,  scarlet  tomatoes,  beets,  and  onions.  Other 
boats  are  covered  with  the  loveliest  flowers.     Poppies, 


"-^-jjiMftil'fi.s^'jil^*-- 


y?-. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


177 


3111   SDllie 

unit  and 
icisely  as 
,'es,  were 

1  he,  the 
a  eternal 
they  will 
lountains 

the  plaza, 
ms  stroll 
I  fragrant 
)leasantly 

the  Viga 
CO."  This 
f  Mexico, 
jles  raised 
i-kets. 
ity  where 
)oii  speed- 
rms  of  the 
ttoii ;  and, 
->\ith  the 
gi /es  the 
omes  very 

lale  green 

lis.     Other 

Poppies, 


roses,  and  peonies  lie  aljont  in  light,  sweet  masses.  The 
tinkle  of  a  guitar  conies  softly  over  the  water ;  a  Mexi- 
can horseman  gallops  along  the  edge  of  tlie  canal  like 
a  flash  of  silver ;  cliildren  of  all  ages  and  sizes,  with 
dark  eyes  set  in  most  serious  faces,  peer  after  us  from 
the  doorways  of  their  rough  clay  cottages.  After  a  thor- 
oughly enjoyahle  row,  we  reach  the  floating  gardens. 

The  ancient  accounts  say  that  these  islands  floated 
ahout  the  lake  as  freely  as  a  lioat  that  has  ship{)cd  its 
anclior.  That  can  hardly,  in  the  nature  of  things,  be 
true.  But  wliatever  the  gardens  did  in  tlie  way  of 
floating  long  ago,  it  is  certain  that  to-day  they  are  as 
firmly  fixed  as  if  they  had  dry  land  for  their  foundation. 

Their  foundation  is  in  reality  marsli  land.  On  every 
tuft  of  land  tliroughout  tlie  marsh,  earthy  matter  from 
the  water  has  been  piled  u}),  and  fastened  in  place  by 
means  of  withes,  and  long  poles  which  are  driven  down, 
througli  the  mud  and  water,  into  the  solid  ground  be- 
neath the  swamp.  Thus  numberless  little  patches  of 
garden  have  been  made,  wliicli  are  interlaced  by  a 
network  of  small  canals. 

The  gardens  are  kept  green  and  fertile  by  water  from 
the  canals,  which  is  dipped  up  in  long-handled  buckets. 
They  are  like  a  dream  of  the  Thousand  Islands  f)f  the 
St.  Lawrence.  These  islands  are  as  small  and  green  as 
those  of  the  North  ;  but  here  every  result  is  due  to  the 
art  of  man,  Avliile  there,  everything  is  the  work  of 
nature. 

Such  minute  and  careful  gardening  as  is  seen  here ! 
Every  square  foot  is  made  to  do  its  utmost.  The  gar- 
deners are  constantly  in  their  boats,  journeying  from 


I 


178 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


island  to  island,  planting,  tending,  gatliering  their  crops, 
and  then  taking  them  down  the  Viga  canal  to  the  city 
markets. 

Mexico  is  one  of  the  best  Imilt  cities  in  America. 
Perhaps  to  the  newcomer  the  houses  have  a  sameness 
and  monotony  at  first ;  but  the  longer  he  stays,  the 
better  he  likes  the  Mexican  style  of  building. 

The  stjuare,  low  houses  seem  made  to  last  for  genera- 
tions. The  walls  of  some  of  the  houses  are  covered  with 
brightly  colored  plaster,  but  most  of  them  are  of  stone. 
On  passing  througli  the  high-arched  door,  the  court- 
yard is  entered,  with  itii  flowers,  founUiins,  and  singing 
birdjj. 

A  stone  staircase  leads  up  to  a  gallery  which  runs 
around  the  second  story  of  the  house.  Both  staircase 
and  gallery  are  covered  and  overhung  with  climbing 
vines.  The  rooms  on  the  second  story  have  glass  doora 
opening  upon  the  gallery.  lioth  parlors  and  Ijedrooms 
are  often  upon  this  second  floor.  The  lower  floor  of 
the  house  is  used  for  the  stables,  kitchen,  and  servants' 
appartments. 

The  parlor  of  a  Mexican  house  is  large  and  lofty. 
The  walls  are  frescoed,  while  the  ceiling  is  simply  a 
piece  of  cotton  cloth,  stretched  very  tightly  from  wall 
to  wall  and  painted  as  if  it  were  plaster.  The  floor  has 
a  handsome,  thick  carpet,  and  the  furniture  consists  of 
the  usual  covered  drawing-room  set,  consisting  of  a  sofa, 
two  armchairs,  aiid  six  smaller  chairs. 

These  are  arrang'^d  with  great  exactness  about  the 
sides  of  the  room.  The  sofa,  which  is  the  seat  of  honor 
and  is  ornamented  with  two  large  pillows,  is  placed  at  the 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


179 


cir  crops, 
)  the  city 

America, 
sameness 
stays,  the 

Dr  genera- 
'ered  with 
I  of  stone, 
the  court- 
id  singing 

^hich  runs 
I  staircase 
1  climbing 
rhiss  dooi-8 
bedrooms 
er  floor  of 
d  servants' 

and  lofty, 
s  simply  a 

from  wall 
he  floor  has 

consists  of 
ig  of  a  sofa, 

3  about  the 
eat  of  honor 
)laced  at  the 


upper  end  of  the  room.  At  eacli  end  of  the  sofa  stands 
an  armchair,  and  the  remaining  chaii's  are  arranged  oppo- 
site one  anotlier  at  the  sides  of  the  room  and  cdosely 
l)uslied  against  tlie  wall.  Americans  miss  the  pictures 
and  small  ornament«  which  make  our  houses  so  attrac- 
tive and  homelike. 

The  kitchen  is  the  only  room  which  has  a  fireplace, 
although  the  evenings  and  nights  are  exceedingly  cold. 
You  w^oidd  hardly  recognize  the  stove  when  you  saw  it. 
Imagine  a  square  stone  platform  about  four  feet  high, 
running  across  one  end  of  the  kitchen,  and  having  large 
circular  holes  cut  at  intervals  in  the  upper  surface. 
This  is  a  Mexican  cooking  stove,  and  into  those  circular 
lioles  the  kettles  are  set. 

Sometimes  the  cooking  stove  is  only  a  foot  or  two 
high,  and  circular.  When  using  this,  the  cook  sits  on 
the  floor  beside  it ;  but  when  using  the  other  kind,  she 
stands. 

The  cooking  utensils  are  very  few  and  very  simple. 
A  large  curving  board  or  stone,  on  which  the  corn  is 
rolled  or  pounded  into  meal,  is  the  utensil  most  needed 
by  the  Mexican  cook.  Think  of  a  broom  being  a  rare 
article !  One  American  woman  says  that  she  was 
obliged  to  wait  six  months  before  purchasing  one. 
There  were  no  stores  in  which  one  could  be  bought; 
they  were  to  be  procured  only  when  the  broom  peddler 
went  his  irregular  rounds.  Meanwhile  she  had  to  bor- 
row of  her  neighbors. 

To  look  from  one"  of  tlie  barred  windows  upon  the 
street  is  always  interesting.  Horse  cars  drawn  by 
mules,  with  dark-skinned  drivers  lustily  blowing  their 


180 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


horns,  dasli  by  at  intL'ivals.  The  cars  painted  yellow 
are  lii-st  class  ;  tliose  painte'l  ^';reen  are  second  class. 

Now  and  then  a  (!al)  -iippcais  in  sight  hearing  a  hlne, 
re  '■  white  ling.  The  blue  Hag  means  that  it  is  a  first 
oliu-  il),  for  which  one  dollar  i)er  hour  is  paid.  The 
red  ilag  means  a  second  class  cah,  which  costs  seventy- 
five  cents  an  hour.  The  white  Hag  shows  the  third 
class,  and  costs  iifty  cents  an  hour. 

Occasionally  a  train  of  loaded  burros  piisses  slowly 
up  the  street.  You  would  scarcely  know  donkeys  were 
there,  so  completely  are  they  hidden  by  their  loads  of 
liay  and  wood. 

A  water  carrier  conies  along  beneath  our  window. 
He  is  clad  almost  entirely  in  leather,  and  by  means  of  a 
rubber  band  about  the  forehead,  carries  two  great  water 
jars,  one  before  and  one  behind.  They  are  so  heavy 
that  if,  by  any  mischance,  the  leather  supporting  one  of 
the  jai's,  should  be  cut,  he  would  be  thrown  to  the 
ground  by  the  weight  of  the  other  jar,  falling  either 
backward  '  r  forward  as  the  case  might  be.  When  both 
are  in  jAa  -i  they  balance  each  other  so  perfectly  that 
the  man  is  ii.!:Ul  in  an  upright  position.  He  makes  his 
living  by  selling  water  from  house  to  house. 

Ice  is  purchased  from  Indians,  who  make  frequent 
pilgrimages  for  it  to  the  snowy  mountains  which  sur- 
round the  valley  of  Mexico.  Here  are  a  group  of  little 
children.  They  are  poorly  but  cleanly  dressed  in  cot- 
ton. The  little  brown  arms  and  legs  are  bare ;  for,  in 
most  cases,  the  sleeves  do  not  reach  the  elbow,  and  the 
skirts  or  trousei-s  stop  at  the  knee.  Sometimes,  how- 
ever, long,  narrow  pantelets  are  worn,  coming  down  to 


^'''"*«^*«»teit8^> 


■Hi- 


ll yellow 
lass. 

g  11  bluo, 
is  a  lU'st 
ill.  Tho 
;  seviMity- 
thc  third 

es  slowly 
vcys  were 
•  loads  of 

window, 
leans  of  a 
reat  water 

so  heavy 
ing  one  of 
vn  to  the 
ing  either 
iVhen  both 
■fectly  that 

makes  his 

e  frequent 
which  sur- 
al) of  little 
sed  in  cot- 
are  ;  for,  in 
3\v,  and  the 
bimes,  how- 
ig  down  to 


M^'^^ 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


181 


the  tin},  brown  feet.  They  chatter,  laugli,  and  a])[)car 
to  be  as  wide-awake  to  all  that  surrounds  thoni  as  a 
.similar  group  of  United  Slates  children  might  be.  It 
is  only  as  they  grow  older  that  the  Spanish  in(HtTerence 
is  apt  to  steal  over  them. 

The  Mexicans  are  very  courteous  and  kind  to  one 
another  in  their  homes,  and  tlieir  manner  to  strangers 
is  perfect.  Tlnsy  cannot  be  said  to  be  an  intemperate 
people ;  for,  though  the  corner  drinking  shops  are  seen 
throughout  the  cities  and  are  nuich  frequented,  travel- 
ers liave  again  and  again  testified  that  they  have  never 
seen  more  than  one  or  two  Mexicans  intoxicated. 

And  now,  witli  a  parting  glance  at  the  curious  sight 
of  a  Mexican  laborer  carrying  a  piano  through  the 
streets  with  easy  indin'erence,  we  must  tuiii  away  and 
prepare  for  our  journey  from  the  city  of  Mexico  into 
the  hot  regions  of  the  country. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
DOWN  INTO  THE   HOT   LANDS. 

Do  you  remember  the  five  classes  of  Mexican  states 
that  were  spoken  of  in  the  chapter  called  "  A  Bird's-li^ye 
View  of  Mexico  "  ?  The  third  chiss  of  states  were  those 
around  the  City  of  Mexico,  which  produced  maguey. 

What  is  maguey?  It  is  wliat  is  known  in  the  United 
States  as  a  century  plant.  To  the  north,  south,  east, 
and  west  of  the  capital  are  acres  and  acres,  and  even 


182 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


miieH  and  milns  of  luajfiiey  i)laiitali()ns.  Think  of  long, 
8trai{,flit  liiu's  of  (iiuitury  [ilauls,  stretching  away  in  all 
directions  to  the  horizon..  Tlio  plants  have  leaves  grow- 
ing with  such  ret,nilarity  from  (iio  short,  strong  stems, 
that  they  look  as  if  carved  fiom  clear,  green  niarhle. 
8t)mo  of  the  phinUs  are  full-grown,  being  eight  or  ten 
feet  high  ;  othei-s  are  tiny  plants,  but  two  feet  tall. 

Now  close  your  eyes  and  see  if  you  can  picture  a 
maguey  plantation  to  yourself.  Take  the  one  plant 
you  have  seen  here  in  the  United  States,  and  nudtiply 
it  hundreds  of  times,  setting  out  the  plants  in  a  straight 
line  till  the  farther  ones  vanish  o\it  of  sight.  Then 
plai;e  other  rows  beside  the  first  row,  and  multiply  them 
till  the  farthest  of  these  too  disappear.  (Jlance  your 
eyes  over  the  whole  and  then  you  will  have  an  idea  of 
a  Mexican  maguey  plantation. 

The  chief  use  of  the  maguey  is  to  make  pulque,  a 
mildly  intoxicating  li({Uor  which  is  drank  as  freely  in 
Mexico  as  milk  is  in  our  country. 

The  maguey  is  first  set  out  as  a  tiny  slip.  It  does 
not  require  much  care,  but  grows  quietly  along  from 
year  to  year,  until,  at  the  end  of  the  seventh  year,  it  is 
recognized  as  a  full-grown  plant,  whose  value  is  twelve 
doUai's. 

In  the  spriiig,  between  the  closely  growing  leaves  of 
the  mature  plant  is  seen  a  large  fleshy  cone.  This  con- 
tains the  flower  stalk  and  flowers.  The  Mexican  planter 
cuts  it  out  with  his  sharp  knife,  leaving  a  hollow,  shaped 
like  a  bowl,  in  the  heart  of  the  i)lant.  The  sap  fills  this 
hollow  so  quickly  that  the  juice  has  to  be  drawn  out  two 
or  three  times  a  day.     A  narrow  tube-shaped  gourd  is 


'•»a8iiife<i*fe..,. 


\  . 


O'JR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


18;} 


of  long, 

,iV  ill  ill  I 
I's  grow- 
Of  steins, 
marble, 
t  or  ten 
tall. 

)icturc  a 
ne  plant 
nuiltiply 

I  straight 
t.  Tlieii 
ply  them 
nee  your 

II  idea  of 

pnl([ue,  a 
freely  in 

It  does 

long  from 

year,  it  is 

is  twelve 

leaves  of 
This  con- 
;an  planter 
o\v,  shaped 
,p  fills  this 
vn  out  two 
d  gourd  is 


thrust  into  the  hollow,  and  tlieii  l)y  suction  the  juice*  is 
drawn  up  into  a  pigskin  carried  on  tlic  hack  of  the  gar- 
dener. A  healthy  plant  yields  from  a  gallon  to  a  gaUon 
and  a  half  a  day. 

The  maguey  juice  hefoie  it  is  fermented  is  called 
lioney  water.  The  i»igskins  are  em[>tietl  into  vats  lined 
with  oxen's  hides,  the  coarse  hair  being  turned  inward. 
After  the  honey  water  has  remained  from  ten  to  four- 
teen days  in  the  vats,  it  l>ecomes  fermented  and  is 
changed  to  puhiue. 

The  Mexicans  are  extremely  fond  of  this  drink. 
Ten  thousand  barrels  are  consumed  daily  in  the  city 
of  Mexico.  Under  these  circumstances  it  is  remarka- 
ble that  an  intoxicated  person  is  a  very  rare  sight.  The 
corner  puhjue  shops  are  closed  by  law  at  six  every 
evening,  and  at  this  early  hour  the  drinkers  go  homo  to 
sleep  oft'  the  ill  effects. 

The  maguey  plant  has  been  said  to  give  health, 
wealtii,  and  happiness  to  the  Mexican  people.  It  is,  in 
fact,  as  useful  to  tlunu  as  the  date  palm  is  to  the  Arab, 
and  the  cocoa  palm  to  the  South  Sea  Islander.  It  is 
food,  shelter,  and  fire. 

The  wlK)le  plant  is  used  for  fuel.  The  roots  are 
boiled  and  form  a  healthful  food.  The  leaves,  when 
dried,  are  used  to  shingle  the  houses.  They  also  are 
made  into  troughs  into  which  water  is  poured  to  be 
frozen  into  ice.  The  evaporation  of  the  oil  from  the 
cut  leaves  cools  the  water  down  to  the  freezing  point. 

The  fibre  of  the  maguey  leaf  is  perhaps  more  useful 
than  any  other  part  of  the  plant.  It  forms  a  coarae 
thread  from  which  cloth,  twine,  and  an  excellent  rope 


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184 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE, 


are  made.  The  rope  is  braided  into  largo,  coarse  mais, 
wliieli  are  used  in  the  liomes  of  the  jjoorer  jNlexicans  as 
cliairs  by  day  and  beds  at  night.  Tliese  mats  are  carried 
to  market,  where  tliey  can  l)e  seen  at  any  time,  either 
carpeting  the  rough  courtyard  strewn  with  delicious 
fruits  and  vegetables,  or  uplield  by  slendei-  poles  to 
form  a  shelter  for  the  merchant  and  his  goods.  Paper 
is  also  made  from  the  fibre. 

The  prickly  thorns  edging  the  fleshy  leaves  make  ex- 
cellent nails  and  needles.  Sometimes  a  thorn  is  torn 
off  the  leaf  with  a  long  fibre  attached  to  it.  What  does 
that  make  ?     A  needle  already  threaded,  of  course. 

The  saj),  by  a  curious  i)rocess,  is  made  into  puh^ue,  iis 
we  have  seen  already.  Hot  pulque  is  thought  to  be  an 
excellent  medicine  for  coughs  and  lung  troubles  of  all 
kinds. 

A  large  white  caterj)illar  often  inhabits  the  i)hint. 
When  cooked,  the  poor  Mexican  considers  him  as  great 
a  luxury  as  the  Frenchman  does  a  snail. 

About  six  lioui-s'  journey  in  a  southeasterly  direction 
from  the  city  of  Mexico,  is  the  city  of  Pueljla,  which  is 
next  to  the  capital  in  size.  Many  kinds  of  grain  are 
raised  in  the  neighborhood  of  Puebla,  and  the  corn  cribs 
and  hayiicks  are  built  to  represent  small  churches  with 
spires  and  crosses  most  ingeniously  formed. 

Puebla  is  built  of  gianite ;  but  it  might  have  been 
built  of  glittering  marl)le,  for  near  the  city  aie  two 
great  mountains  of  the  beautiful  kind  of  marble  called 
Mexican  onyx.  There  is  enough  material  in  these 
marble  mountains  to  have  built  London,  Pekin,  Paris, 
Vienna,  and  a  hundred  more  cities  of  their  size. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


185 


se  macs, 
icans  as 
carried 
:;,  either 
lelicioiis 
)()les  to 
I'aper 

lake  ex- 
is  torn 
lat  does 
se. 

Ic^ue,  as 
to  be  an 
;s  of  all 

B  pkint. 
as  great 

iirection 
diich  is 
rain  are 
rn  cril)S 
les  with 

ve  heen 
lie  two 
B  called 
n  these 
1,  Paris, 


Much  of  this  marble  has  been  nsed  for  the  interior 
decorations  of  the  I'uebla  eatliedral.  This  is  a  very 
beantiful  building  standing  on  the  soutliern  side  of  the 
principal  plaza.  Tlie  story  is.  that  when  the  workmen 
paused  in  their  work  on  the  cathedral  at  the  close  of  the 
day,  the  angels  continued  building  throngli  tlic  night. 
This  tradition  gives  the  name  of  "•  the  city  of  the  angels  *' 
to  Puebla. 

Many  consider  tliis  cathedral  more  beautiful  than  the 
Mexican  cathedral  itself.  It  is  built  of  granite,  and  lias 
a  fine  dome  and  a  j)air  of  towers. 

Within,  the  subdued  light  gleams  on  onyx  pillars 
richly  decorated  with  gold  and  gems,  and  on  altars 
decorated  with  onj-x.  At  the  foot  of  eacli  altar  is  a 
large  glass  case  in  wiiich  I'csts  a  waxen  image  of  some 
saint  of  the  church,  ri(!hly  dra[)cd  in  gorgeous  silks 
decorated  with  emeralds  and  diamonds.  Tlie  bones  of 
martyrs  are  said  to  be  within  the  waxen  images.  Ele- 
gant carvings,  fine  porti'aits,  and  magnificent  tapestiy 
hangings  can  be  seen  in  various  chajjcls  and  lialls  of  the 
cathedral ;  while  on  all  sides  aie  ex([uisite  onyx  decora- 
tions, which,  in  beauty  and  richness  of  coloring,  cannot 
be  anywhere  surpassed. 

Puebla  has  another  name  beside  the  "city  of  the 
angels."  On  .account  of  its  numerous  manufactories,  it 
lias  been  compared  with  one  of  our  important  mainifac- 
tu'ing  towns,  and  called  the  Lowell  of  Mexico.  Cotton 
thread,  blankets,  tiles,  crockery,  glass,  soap,  and  matclies 
are  all  made  here. 

The  city  is  full  of  churches,  schools,  hospitals,  and 
asylums.     It  is  one  of  the  cleanest  cities  in  the  world. 


186 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


Every  day  the  streets  are  swept  and  cleansed  in  the 
most  thorough  manner. 

The  streets  look  very  queer  to  one  from  more  northern 
countries.  The  gutter  runs  through  the  centre,  and  the 
street  on  each  side  sloi)es  toward  it.  Wlien  one  street 
entere  another,  there  arises  the  problem  as  to  how  the  gut- 
ter is  to  be  crossed  by  foot  passengers.  For  answer,  little 
bridges  are  built ;  but,  as  these  are  always  in  the  side 
street,  the  careless  traveler  is  apt  to  step  into  the  gut- 
ter on  the  main  street,  forgetting  to  turn  toward  the 
Ijridge.  In  South  America  we  see  many  streets  whose 
general  plan  is  like  tliese  of  Puebla. 

About  seven  miles  from  Puebla  is  the  pyramid  of 
Cholula,  a  relic  of  the  days  of  the  T'oltecs.  The  Toltecs 
were  Indian  tribes  that  inhabited  this  region  before  the 
Spaniards  settled  liere.  Tlie  pyramid  looks  like  an 
ordinary  hill,  covered  with  the  usual  growth  of  shnibs 
and  grasses,  and  capped  by  a  small  chapel.  You  would 
never  think  of  calling  it  a  pyramid,  and  yet  it  is. 

Centuries  ago,  the  Toltecs  forced  the  captives  they 
had  taken  in  war  to  pile  up  brick  after  brick  by  hand, 
until  they  had  made  this  pyramid,  forty-four  acres 
square  at  the  base,  one  acre  square  at  the  summit,  and 
about  two  hundred  feet  in  height.  Tlic  pyramid  was 
built  in  layers ;  first  a  layer  of  sunburned  brick,  and 
then  a  layer  of  claj^,  and  so  on.  The  whole  was  sheathed 
in  adobe,  or  clay.  Time  wore  away  the  covering  of 
clay ;  plants  crept  over  the  face  of  the  pyramid ;  a  layer 
of  soil  was  formed;  and  soon  Cliolula  became  to  all 
ajjpearances  an  ordinary  hill,  studded  with  trees,  cov- 
ered with  grass,  and  strewn  with  flowers. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


187 


ill  till) 

)rtheru 
iiul  the 
!  street 
he  gut- 
ir,  little 
16  side 
lie  gut- 
ird  the 
I  whose 

mid  of 
Toltecs 
jre  the 
ike  ail 
shrubs 
would 

;s  they 
^  hand, 
p  acres 
lit,  caiul 
lid  was 
k,  and 
leathed 
'ing  of 
a  layer 
to  all 
!S,   cov- 


The  traveler  climbs  the  winding  path  to  the  summit, 
and  tiiids  a  beautiful  view  awaiting  him.  Four  moun- 
tain peaks  rise  into  the  blue  sky, — Popocatapetl  and 
Iztaccihuatl  in  the  northwest,  Maliiiche  in  the  north- 
east, and  the  volcano  of  Oriziba  in  the  direct  east.  The 
view  of  Popocatapetl  and  Iztaccihuatl  is  more  satisfac- 
tory from  Cholula  than  it  is  from  the  City  of  Mexico. 
The  plainest  likeness  of  Iztaccihuatl  to  a  sleeping 
maiden  is  seen  here.  Malinche,  or  Cortcz's  Mountain, 
is  a  dark,  grim  height  on  which  not  a  tree,  shrub,  nor 
blade  of  grass  will  grow.  Oriziba  has  the  cup-shaped 
summit  which  always  denotes  the  crater  of  a  volcano, 
and  is  covered  with  snow. 

All  about  the  base  of  Cholula,  and  stretching  far 
away,  are  green  fields  ot  grain,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  villages  and  church  spires.  Perhaps  it  was  the 
view  from  Cholula.  that  first  suggested  the  idea  that  it 
might  have  been  built  as  a  fortress  or  place  of  refuge 
for  a  community  of  farmers.  In  time  of  war,  what 
place  in  all  the  country  round  could  be  so  easily  de- 
fended as  this  single  elevation  ? 

Some  wise  men  hold  this  opinion ;  others  believe  that 
the  pyramid  was  erected  in  honor  of  the  Toltec  god  of 
the  air.  A  little  Spanish  chapel  which,  though  old,  is 
kept  in  perfect  repair,  is  situated  on  the  level  space  at 
the  top  of  the  pyramid. 

The  railroad  trip  from  Pnebla  to  Vera  Cruz  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  journeys  in  the  world.  The  great 
central  plateau  of  Mexico  descends  very  abruptly  to  the 
lowlands  of  the  Gulf.  Within  a  very  few  miles,  the 
railroad  drops  from  an  elevation  of  five  thousand  or  six 


188 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


thousand  feet  to  an  elevation  of   but  a  few  hundred 
feet. 

In  making  this  descent,  two  engines  are  used,  one  at 
the  front,  the  other  at  the  back  of  the  train.  The  track 
winds  ah)ng  the  edges  of  fearful  precipices,  and  crosses 
yawning  guUcys  by  means  of  railroad  bridges.  And  so 
the  engine  seems  to  climb  up  and  down  the  faces  of  the 
steepest  cliffs,  like  a  fly  on  a  wall. 

It  makes  one  giddy  to  glance  from  the  window;  and 
yet  the  wondeiful  beauty  and  the  terrible  danger  fas- 
cinate the  traveler  and  compel  him  to  look.  These 
upright  walls  to  which  the  train  is  (flinging  desperately 
are  covered  with  tlie  most  luxuriant  growths  and  the 
fairest  flowers.  Tall  rhododendrons  almost  strangled 
by  ivy,  jungles  of  ferns,  and  tangles  of  morning-glory 
blossoms  appear. 

There  are  many  beautiful  plants  on  all  sides  that  we 
have  never  seen  before.  Here,  is  a  tall  shrub,  like  a  lilac, 
with  trumpet-shaped  white  flowei-s ;  there,  is  a  clump 
of  brilliant  scarlet  flowers  lined  with  a  soft  pink.  And 
look,  look  at  the  edge  of  the  cliff!  Delicate  orchids 
with  bright  scarlet  blossoms  a  foot  long,  are  nodding  at 
us.  They  are  so  near  that  we  could  almost  pluck  them, 
if  the  train  would  only  go  more  slowly.  But  it  speeds 
along  at  its  own  sweet  will,  which  happens,  in  this  case, 
to  be  a  smart  pace,  and  brings  us  safely  down  into  the 
hot,  moist  air  of  the  lowlands. 

There  are  three  regions  in  Mexico,  — the  cold  region 
on  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  the  temperate  region  on 
the  great  central  plateau,  and  the  hot  region  on  the 
lowlands  beside  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Pacific  coast. 


■« 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


189 


lundred 

,  one  at 
le  track 
crosses 
And  so 
s  of  the 

Av;  and 

ger  fas- 
These 
[)erately 
and  the 
trangled 
iig-glory 

that  we 
e  a  lilac, 
a  clump 
i.     And 

orchids 
dding  at 
ck  them, 
t  speeds 
his  case, 
into  the 

d  region 
3gion  on 
1  on  the 
.fie  coast. 


So  far,  all  our  journeying  has  been  in  the  temperate 
region.  We  are  now  entering  tlie  hot  region  for  the 
first  time. 

The  air  is  hot,  soft,  and  damp.  A  light  haze  softens 
the  outlines  of  the  hills,  which  are  (iultivated  to  their 
very  sunnuits.  The  sky  is  generally  overcast,  and  rains 
are  very  frec^uent.  A  spicy  smell  of  sandalwood  is  in 
the  warm  air. 

The  thermometer,  which  stood  at  thirty-two  on  the 
plateau  in  the  morning,  registers  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  degrees  at  night. 

Through  the  warmest  weather  the  workman  toils 
unflaggingly  in  the  fields.  The  Mexican  is  not  by 
nature  idle.  He  only  lounges  about  when  he  has  no 
employment.  When  he  hsis  work  to  do,  he  labors  with 
the  utmost  devotion,  never  stopping  to  lift  his  head  or 
turn  his  eyes  from  the  task  before  him. 

The  lowlands  are  rich  with  large  valuable  trees,  and 
beautiful  with  clustering  vines  and  mosses.  Bananas 
grow  twenty-five  feet  high.  Mango  trees  are  commonly 
thirty  to  forty  feet  in  height,  and  are  covered  with  wis- 
teria. The  purple  blossoms  of  the  vines  mingle  prettily 
with  the  glossy  leaves  of  the  trees.  Pepper  trees  wave 
their  feathery  foliage,  and  droop  their  bright  red  and 
pink  blossoms  above  the  canals. 

Orchids  raise  their  delicate  heads  from  the  branches 
of  trees.  Morning-glories  and  yellow  jasmines  in  full 
bloom  festoon  the  trees  and  shrubs  near  them.  Ferns 
grow  tall,  as  a  tall  man,  and  rose  trees  are  twelve  feet 
high,  with  stems  five  inches  in  diameter. 

The  huts  are  frail,  slight  affaii-s,  suited  to  the  warm 


•^T-|r:-,-i'¥r'-.^^^r 


190 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


climate.  They  are  built  either  of  haiiihoo  sticks  or  of 
reeds,  and  are  thatched  with  i)alm  leaves  or  cornstalks. 
Tlie  roofs  are  cone-shaped  in  order  to  shed  the  rain  which 
falls  so  abundantly  thioufrhnut  this  region.  IJefore  the 
cottaj^e  door,  pigs,  turkeys,  chickens,  and  children  phiy 
together.  Men,  wotnen,  and  children  are  dressed  in 
white  cotton,  and  wear  wide-brinuned  shade  hats. 


A    NATIVE    RESIDENCE    IN    THE    HOT    COUNTRY. 

The  country  about  Vera  Cruz  is  filled  with  coffee 
plantations.  The  coffee  plant  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet 
tall.  It  has  small,  glossy,  green  leaves  like  the  holly,  and 
bears  a  bright  red  berry  resembling  the  cranberry. 

The  coffee  plant  needs  plenty  of  heat,  shade,  and 
moisture.  To  secure  the  necessary  shade,  the  young 
plants  are  set  out  between  rows  of  banana  trees. 

After  the  plants  are  five  or  six  yeare  old,  they  begin 
to  bear  fruit.  The  fruit  is  the  size  of  a  cherry.  In  the 
pulp  are  set  two  seeds. 


cs  or  of 
iistalks. 
1  wliich 
ore  the 
en  i»liiy 
ssed   in 


I  coffee 
sen  feet 
lly,  and 
r. 

le,  and 
young 

y  begin 
In  the 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


lyi 


The  borries  are  gathered  and  phiceil  on  trays  or  mats, 
which  are  left  in  tlie  open  air  for  a  number  of  days. 
After  that,  tlie  seeds  are  separated  by  machinery  from 
the  berry,  which  has  changed  from  a  pulpy  mass  to  a 
dry  pod.  The  thin,  membranous  coating  of  tlie  seeds 
is  next  removed,  and  then  the  coft'ee  is  ready  for  market. 

Some  coffee  is  superior  to  other  coffee  of  the  same  kind, 
on  account  of  a  more  fragrant  aroma.  This  is  because 
it  has  received  nunc  careful  sorting  and  drying.  If  the 
Mexicans  were  more  particular  in  their  prejjaration  of 
the  coffee  bean,  the  Mexican  coft'ee  woukl  be  inferior  to 
none  in  the  worUl. 

At  last  we  have  reached  Vera  Cruz,  where  our  jour- 
ney ends.  This  city  is  situated  on  the  sandy  shores  of 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  among  marshes  and  fever  swamps. 
It  has  the  name  of  liaving  more  horrible  odora  than 
any  other  city  in  Mexico,  and  that  is  saying  much. 
Also,  it  is  said  to  be  the  stronghold  of  the  yellow  fever 
and  other  kindred  tropical  diseases. 

Notwithstanding  all  these  disadvantages,  many  trav- 
elers enjoy  Vera  Cruz,  and  spend  the  summer  months 
there  for  the  sea  bathing.  The  summer  is  the  time  of 
year  when  "  Yellow  Jack,"  as  the  yellow  fever  is  called, 
is  least  prevalent. 

The  city  is  very  much  like  other  cities  of  Mexico  in 
its  general  ])lan  and  style  of  architecture.  The  houses 
have  flat  roofs,  with  courtyards  and  stuccoed  walls. 
The  cathedral  on  the  central  plaza  is  haunted  by  vul- 
tures. Because  they  act  as  city  scavengers,  they  are 
protected  by  law.  It  is  a  curious  sight  to  see  them 
perched  on  a  lofty  tower  of  the  cathedral,  with  their 


192 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


shiulowy  forms  outlined  ii]L,'iiiiist  llio  I'iiiiitly  tiiitod  sky 
of  the  tropU'iil  nijjflit.  Tlieir  lioiirsc  croiik,  as  it  is  borne 
ou  the  evening  breeze  ueross  the  pluzii,  has  a  ghostly 
sonnd. 

The  (Julf  of  Mexico  is  a  beautiful  sight  in  the  vwn- 
ing,  especially  when  lighted  by  a  full  moon.  'I'lie 
waves  rolling  towards  the  shore  look  like  molten  silver. 


is 


-77  ..ill  iTtiT  '■■iJ^jii.Ti.r-^-f  A:^rJ^ 


THE    CITY    OF    VERA    CRUZ. 


iind  every  sailing  vessel  and  little  boat  gleams  with  a 
new  and  marvelous  radiance. 

The  best  view  of  Vera  Cruz  is  obtained  while  enter- 
ing its  wretched  little  harbor,  'i'he  city  looks  very  long 
and  low  a.s  it  stretches  along  the  shore.  It  has  almost 
a  flattened  appearance,  as  if  some  mighty  force  had 
pressed  it  downward  into  the  sand.  Much  of  the 
stucco  work  of  the   houses  is  of  a  bright  pink  color, 


ed  sky 
s  homo 
t^liostly 

u  evou- 
Thc 

silvt'i,, 


H 


with  ii 
e  enter- 

ly  lollfr 
ahnost 

■ce  had 
of   tlie 

c  color, 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


108 


1111(1  tliis  hu.ks  very  pictiircsciiK.  iijriiiust  tho  yellow  siind 
c-litt'8  hack  of  VfiaCniz.  'Ihc  olloca  of  the  i)iiik  and 
yellow  eity  spanned  hy  tlie  cloudless  hliie  sky  is  daz- 
zling. Tlie  eye  aches  after  looking  awhile  at  tlie  glar- 
ing tro|)ical  colors. 

There  are  numerous  delightful  places  lliat  we  might 
visit  in  Mexico.  There  are  the  tohacco  and  cotton 
I)lantatioiis  to  the  east  and  south  ;  there  is  the  town  of 
(luadalajara,  where  they  make  pottery  and  feather  work  ; 
and,  lastly  and  most  curious  of  all,  there  is  that  (iiieer, 
unknown  region  of  Yucatan  where  are  strange,  elahorate 
huildings,  laiilt  hy  an  ancient  people  of  whoso  language 
and  customs  we  know  almost  nothing. 

Central  America  is  a  kindred  country  to  Mexico,  and 
there  we  shall  douhtless  find  many  customs  and  sights 
that  will  pleasantly  remind  us  of  our  stay  in  Mexico. 


w 


OUR  AMERICAN  NE1G1I150RS. 


CE.yriidL   AMEllWA. 


IJIJJ  UIMl'JUitliPg 


196 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE, 


OUR  AMEUICAIS^  JSTEIGHBORS. 


CEXTJIAL    AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


THE  TINY  RKrUlJLICH  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


Southeast  of  Mexico,  and  occupying  the  narrowest 
portion  of  North  America,  are  five  small  republics, — 
Ciui;temala,  Honduras,  San  Salvador,  Nicaragua,  and 
Costa  Rica.  These,  with  the  English  colony  of  Rritish 
Honduras,  form  what  is  known  as  Central  America. 

With  the  single  exception  of  San  Salvador,  each  of 
the  republics  stretches  from  ocean  to  ocean.  Each  has 
therefore  two  coasts,  one  bordering  on  the  Atlantic  and 
the  other  on  the  Pacific.  On  neither  coast  are  there 
remarkably  good  harbors. 

The  Atlantic  shore  is  low  aiul  sandy.  One  might 
expect  to  find  liarbors  at  the  mouths  of  the  rivers.  But 
the  rivers,  flowing  through  sandy  districts,  usually 
form  deltas ;  and  their  mouths,  one  by  one,  become 
choked  with  sand  bars.  One  of  the  few  harbors  on  the 
Atlantic  seaboard  is  at  Grcytown,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sail  Juan  River. 

The  Pacific  coast  f)f  Central  America,  like  the  Pacific 

197 


198 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


coast  of  Mexico,  is  bold  ami  rocky.  There  are  no  good 
liarbors,  but  only  a  few  sheltered  bays  ;  and  even  these 
are  uidike  the  many  deep,  sheltered  havens  on  our  own 
Pacific  coast. 

The  greater  part  of  the  surface  of  Central  America 
consists  of  table-land  crossed,  in  many  directions,  by 
ranges  of  mountains.  This  is  one  of  the  chief  volcanic 
regions  on  the  earth.  Active  volcanoes  are  found  in 
all  the  republics,  but  they  are  particularly  numerous  in 
Nicaragua.  Most  of  the  western  third  of  this  state 
consists  of  a  deep  depression,  which  is  filled  by  Lakes 
Managua  and  Nicaragna,  and  is  of  volcanic  forma- 
tion. Volcanoes  lift  their  cone-shaped  heights  along 
the  shores  and  from  the  centres  of  these  lakes,  while 
plains  of  ashes,  lava,  and  pumice  lie  at  the  feet  of  the 
mountains. 

The  rivers  may  be  divided  into  two  chusses,  —  those 
of  the  Atlantic  and  those  of  the  Pacific  slope.  The 
first  class  are  long  and  sluggish,  often  seeming  to  lose 
themselves  in  the  sand.  The  second  class  are  short  and 
rapid.  The  two  most  important  rivers  are  the  Segovia 
and  the  San  Juan.  Both  of  these  rivei-s  v»ork  their 
way  through  the  jungles  of  a  genuine  tropical  forest. 

In  climate,  productions,  and  people.  Central  America 
closely  resembles  Mexico.  The  two  conntries  are  own 
cousins.  Both  were  inhabited  by  Indians  and  settled 
by  Sjianiards  ;  and  the  similarity  of  the  climate  and 
soil  have  produced  much  the  same  results  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the  cities  and  the  customs  of  the  people. 

We  are  now  ai)proaehing  the  Pacific  coast  of  Guate- 
mala.     The  ship  which  carries  us  anchors  presently 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


199 


10  good 
1  these 
ur  own 


imenca 
nns,  by 
olcimic 
luiul  in 
irous  in 
8  state 
,'  Lakes 
forma- 
i  along 
i,  while 
',  of  the 

—  those 
!.  The 
to  lose 
ort  and 
Segovia 
k  their 
rest. 
America 
re  own 
settled 
ite  and 
charac- 

Guate- 
-esently 


abont  two  miles  from  the  shore.  The  coast  consists 
of  high  bluffs,  with  a  very  narrow  strip  of  sand  at 
their  base.  The  sliore  shelves  so  gradually  that  no 
ships  dare  approach  within  two  miles  of  the  land  for 
fear  of  getting  aground. 

Tlie  cargo  and  the  passengera  have  to  be  taken 
ashore  in  large  boats  called  lighters.  The  sea  has  many 
cross  currents  and  eddies,  and  the  lighter  often  drifts 
from  its  course ;  but  at  last  it  reaches  the  base  of  a 
huge  iron  pier  in  safety.  We  strain  our  necks  back- 
ward, and  gaze  at  the  top  of  the  lofty  pier.  How  are 
we  ever  to  ascend  it  ? 

For  answer,  an  iron  cage  is  swung  over  the  side  of 
the  pier  and  descends  into  the  boat.  We  enter  with 
the  other  passengers.  The  signal  is  given;  the  cage 
gives  a  tremendous  lurch  ;  every  one  shuts  his  eyes  and 
clings  with  all  his  might  to  the  bars  of  the  cage.  A 
few  more  terrible  bumps,  and  then,  to  the  great  relief 
of  all,  the  cage  lands  safely  on  the  wharf.  We  are 
fairly  in  Guatemala. 

The  pier  is  crowded  with  boxes  and  barrels  of  mer- 
chandise, which  have  been  brought  by  tramway  from 
the  city  out  to  the  far  edge  of  the  pier  for  exporta- 
tion. Horses  and  cattle  are  also  waiting  here  to  be 
exported. 

A  derrick  worked  by  a  small  steam  engine  is  the 
means  by  which  the  loading  is  accomplished.  The  boxes 
and  barrels  are  slung  into  a  large  bag  made  of  rope,  and 
are  lowered  into  the  boat.  The  oxen  have  a  network  of 
ropes  fastened  to  their  horns.  It  is  a  strange  sight  to 
see  a  kicking,  struggling  steer,  swinging  loose  from  the 


'»'«»I  SfW«K^  - 


^.^j.'-b^-'--^;  'S^.  • 


200 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


side  of  the  pier  into  the  air.  Horses  are  lowered  more 
carefully  in  a  kind  of  leather  belt,  which  is  fastened 
about  the  body. 

The  city  of  Guatemala  is  situated  on  the  table-land 
some  fifty  miles  from  the  coast.  There  are  very  few 
railroads  in  Central  America,  and,  as  many  of  the  roads 
are  narrow  and  poor,  much  of  the  journeying  is  on  don- 
keys. The  road  to  Guatemala  is  a  fairly  good  one, 
however,  and  is  generally  traversed  by  stage.  The 
stage  is  drawn  by  two  mules  and  live  burros. 

The  time  oi  our  trip  is  in  the  rainy  season,  and  the 
roads  are  exceedingly  muddy.  Frequently  the  stage 
sticks  in  the  mud  and  comes  to  a  sudden  standstill,  to 
the  extreme  annoyance  of  both  driver  and  mules.  In 
the  dry  season  the  traveler  is  choked  with  dust. 

Often  we  pause  while  a  train  of  carts,  coming  down 
from  the  interior,  passes  by.  These  trains  of  ox  carts 
are  sometimes  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long.  The  cart 
is  made  of  very  solid  and  heavy  timbers.  The  wheels 
are  rough  sections  of  the  trunks  of  mahogany  trees, 
which  are  shaped  by  the  ax  to  as  perfect  a  circle  as 
possible.  They  are  five  feet  in  diameter  and  seven  or 
eight  inches  thick. 

The  oxen  wear  no  yoke,  but  have  the  tongue  of  the 
cart  fastened  by  str>  ps  to  their  horns.  The  drivers  are 
dressed  in  cotton  shuts  and  trousera.  The  shirts  com- 
plete their  dress  suits.  They  put  them  on  as  they  ap- 
proach a  town,  but  in  the  open  country  they  wear  simply 
the  trousei-s. 

Sending  goods  in  this  way  is  slow  but  safe.  It  is 
slow,  because  the  drivers  will  not  start  on  their  journey 


red  more 
fastened 

able-land 
very  few 
the  roads 
s  on  don- 
ood  one, 
fe.      The 

,  and  the 
he  stage 
idstill,  to 
ules.     In 

ng  down 
ox  carts 
The  cart 
le  wheels 
ny  trees, 
circle  as 
seven  or 

le  of  the 
rivers  are 
lirts  com- 
1  they  ap- 
lar  simply 

fe.  It  is 
r  journey 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


201 


after  a  night's  rest  until  all  are  ready.  If  one  meets 
with  an  aocident,  tlie  others  wait  until  he  is  able  to  go 
on  again.  It  is  safe,  because  the  drivers  are  exceediiKdv 
trustworthy.  They  always  account  for  every  ounce  or 
pint  that  is  intrusted  to  tlieir  care. 

There  is  a  i)lanter  who  receives  thirty  thousand  silver 
coins  over  the  road  every  week  during  the  coffee  season. 
He  says  it  is  safer  than  if  he  cariied  it  himself. 

There  have  been,  in  all,  three  cities  of  Guatemala. 
The  fiist  was  destroyed  by  ilood,  and  the  second,  La 
Antigua  Guatemala,  by  earthquake. 

This  was  one  of  the  first  cities  on  this  continent 
two  Inmdred  years  ago.  When  Boston  and  New  York 
were  small  villages.  La  Antigua  Guatemala  was  the 
seat  of  many  schools  and  colleges.  It  was  only  sur- 
passed in  riches  and  prosperity  by  two  American  cities, 
Mexico,  and  Lima  in  Peru. 

The  plains  about  Guatemala  Avere  once  given  up  to 
the  culture  of  cochineal.  The  cochineal  is  a  tiny  insect 
which  feeds  on  a  kind  of  cactus,  called  nopal.  Just  be- 
fore the  rainy  season  begins,  the  leaves  of  the  noi)al  are 
cut  close  to  the  ground,  and  are  hung  up  under  a  shed 
for  protection  from  the  rain.  The  insects  are  brushed 
off  the  nopal  leaves  with  a  dull  knife,  and  are  killed 
either  by  boiling  or  by  baking. 

Crimson  dyes  are  obtained  by  boiling ;  blue  and  pur- 
ple dyes  by  baking.  The  insects,  when  dried,  look  like 
a  coai-se  powder.  Though  the  culture  of  cochineal  was 
once  a  chief  industry  of  the  state  of  Guatemala,  of  late 
years  the  cheaper  aniline  dyes  have  diiven  the  cochi- 
neal out  of  the  market. 


1 


"^i^s^mm^ 


202 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  modern  city  of  Guatemala  is  situated  on  a  wide 
table-land.  It  is  laid  out  with  niucii  vcffulaiity,  and,  as 
the  houses  are  low,  with  central  eourlyards,  it  stretches 
over  considerable  space.  Each  street  is  paved,  and 
slopes  towards  a  gutter  running  through  the  centre. 
On  each  side  is  a  Jjroad  sidewalk  of  flagstones.  All  the 
streets  are  very  clean. 

Fine  aqueducts,  built  by  the  old  Spaniards,  keep  the 
fountains  supplied  with  water  from  the  neighboring 
hills.  In  many  of  the  Central  American  cities  there 
are  public  laundries,  whore  women  and  girls  may  be 
seen  at  all  houre  of  the  day  washing  clothes  and  chat- 
ting hapi)ily  together. 

Guatemala  has  the  usual  plaza,  with  a  fine  cathedral 
forming  one  si'de  of  the  stjuare.  Here  the  band  plays 
and  the  people  promenade  on  Sundays,  just  as  in  Mex- 
ico, although  Sunday  is  kept  more  strictly  as  a  day  of 
rest  in  Guatemala. 

The  stores  might  almost  be  called  variety  stores,  on 
account  of  the  many  kinds  of  merchandise  that  they 
contain.  At  the  same  place  one  can  buy  almost  every 
article  of  clothing  and  of  food.  Dry  goods,  hardware, 
glassware,  canned  goods,  boots  and  slioes,  all  are  to  be 
obtained  in  one  of  these  little  corner  shops. 

The  shopkeeper  arrives  at  about  eight  in  the  morn- 
ing. He  opens  the  shop  and  takes  down  the  shutters, 
which  signifies  that  he  is  ready  for  trade.  Toward  the 
close  of  the  rainy  season,  the  rain  comes  in  the  daytime 
from  eleven  to  one.  Promptly  at  eleven,  the  shopman 
closes  his  store  and  goes  home  for  a  noonday  nap.  At 
one  he  returns,  and  the  shop  is  open  until  four. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


203 


on  a  wide 
y,  and,  as 
stretchos 
ived,  and 
le  centre. 
All  the 

keep  the 
ijjhboring 
ties  there 
Si  may  be 
and  chat- 
cathedral 
md  plays 
s  in  Mex- 

a  day  of 

stores,  on 
that  they 
ost  every 
lardware, 
xre  to  be 

lie  morn- 
shutters, 
ward  the 
I  daytime 
shopman 
nap.     At 


Guatemala  and  San  Salvador  are  the  most  prosperous 
states  of  Central  America.  The  presidents  have  intro- 
duced many  modern  imi)rovement«  into  tiie  city  of 
(iuatemala,  and,  as  the  people  still  cling  to  many  t)f  the 
old  customs,  the  new  and  the  old  ways  are  often  closely 
contrasted.  The  telegraph  and  the  telephone,  the  swift 
niessengei-s  of  thought,  pass  through  the  same  street  as 
the  laden  Indian  peasants,  whose  race  has  been  used 
as  beasts  of  burden  for  hundreds  of  years. 

The  Indian  carries  his  load  on  his  back  in  a  pannier, 
whiclj  is  held  in  place  by  a  leather  strap  passing  around 
his  head.  The  Indian  woman  carries  her  load  on  her 
liead.  Some  shrewd  business  men,  in  buying  hay  or 
wood,  always  purchase  a  man's  load  rather  than  a  don- 
key's load.  They  usually  find  that  they  receive  more  by 
so  doing. 

Besides  carrying  a  heavier  load  than  a  donkey  or 
mule,  the  peasant  accomplishes  his  journey  in  less  time. 
He  becomes  so  accustomed  to  walking  under  a  heavy 
weight  that,  on  returning  home  after  having  delivered 
his  goods  in  the  city,  he  often  places  a  stone  of  some 
hundred  pounds  or  so  in  his  pannier,  and  trots  off  as 
briskly  as  if  he  felt  no  weight  at  all. 

The  peasant  woman  comes  to  market  carrying  one 
hundred  pounds  of  vegetables  or  fruits  upon  her  head, 
and  a  baby  slung  in  a  rehoza  upon  her  hip.  Several 
children,  varying  from  six  to  a  dozen  years  of  age, 
accompany  her,  carrying,  as  a  matter  of  course,  weights 
which  a  citizen  of  our  own  country  would  stagger 
under. 

Honduras  is   the   largest   of   the   Central  American 


"^'jsStS^^^ 


'204 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


i  • 


'1 


States,  l)ut  it  is  llio  most  tliinly  settled.  It  lias  a  popu- 
lation one  tliiitl  that  of  Guateiiuila.  'I'lu;  state  is  rich 
ill  j,'ol(l  ai.d  silver  mines,  and  has  a  greater  variety  of 
medicinal  i)lants  than  any  other  country  in  the  world. 

Why  is  it  then  that  Honduras  is  a  poor,  bankrupt 
state?  8im[)ly  beeause  the  people  have  not  the  energy 
to  build  roads. 

There  are  oidy  a  few  uiiles  of  carriage  road  in  the 
country.  All  the  goods  which  are  broii'^Iit  into  the 
interior  are  carried  on  the  backs  of  mules  or  Indians. 
Cariiages  are  unknowu.  They  are  classed  with  over- 
coats and  chinuieys  as  unnecessary  articles. 

There  was  a  plan  uiade  once  to  build  a  railroad 
through  a  natural  valley  in  western  Honduras  which 
two  rivtrs  had  formed,  one  running  north  from  (!omaya- 
gua,  iinil  the  other  south.  Work  was  begun  on  the  line, 
but  it  soon  ceased  for  want  of  funds. 

The  people  of  Central  America  lack  business  exact- 
ness. Rich  men  from  abroad  lend  the  country  money 
to  build  a  certain  railroad.  They  begin  to  build  with 
the  best  i)itentions  in  the  world,  when  suddenly  all  their 
plans  are  changed.  'J'here  arises  a  quarrel  with  a  neigh- 
boring state  or  a  revolution  within  their  own  borders, 
and  the  loaned  money  is  taken  to  pay  the  expenses  of 
the  war. 

Such  measures,  frequently  repeated,  have  caused 
business  men  both  in  Europe  and  in  America  to  distrust 
Honduras,  Nicaragua,  and  Costa  Rica,  and  to  regard 
business  investments  in  those  countries  as  unsafe.  If 
the  inhabitants  would  only  build  roads,  so  that  machin- 
ery could  be  brought  into  the  interior,  the  valuable  mines 


y 


1 


las  a  pojm- 
iito  is  rich 
variety  of 
10  world. 
,  1)aiikrupt 
tlio  energy 

)a(l  in  the 
.  into  the 
>r  IndianH. 
with  over- 

a  railroad 
uas  which 
u  Comaya- 
n  the  line, 

less  exact- 
try  money 
Ijnild  with 
ly  all  their 
th  a  neigh- 
n  borders, 
xpenses  of 

VG  caused 
to  distrust 
to  regard 
nisafe.  If 
it  machin- 
able mines 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


iio; 


might  be  opened  iip  and  tlic  coinitry  wonhl  prosjier. 
lint  as  none  are  built,  industry  is  at  a  standstill. 

Coniayagua  is  the  ca[tital  of  Honduras,  and  is  reached 
by  a  twelve  days'  lide  over  tlr   mountains  on  mules. 

Tegn('igal})a  is  the  largest  and  most  prosperous  city. 
It  always  has  a  briglit  and  eheerful  appearance.  This 
is  because  the  lionses  are  i)ainted  while,  gretui,  pink, 
and  red.  Grass  grows  in  the  streets  ;  and,  although 
every  street  has  a  gutter  through  which  water  might 
pass  to  all  the  liousi's  of  the  (.-ity,  they  are  always  empty, 
and  the  water  is  brought  in  jars  from  the  valley  one 
hundred  feet  below. 

San  Salvador,  although  the  smallest  of  the  states,  is 
the  most  pros])erous  and  the  most  thickly  settled.  The 
people  of  San  Salva(h)r  are  very  industrious.  They 
would  be  rich,  if  it  were  not  for  frequent  outbreaks 
from  the  volcanoes. 

Most  of  San  Scalvador  is  a  plateau,  two  thousand  feet 
liigh,  with  volcanoes  scattered  over  it  in  clumps.  Many 
of  them  are  active,  and  iields  of  lava,  ashes,  and  pumice 
stone  are  usual  sights  in  the  republic. 

The  city  of  San  Salvador  is  surrounded  by  volcanoes 
on  all  sides  but  the  south.  There  is  one  volcano  ch 
casts  out  smoke  ami  fire  every  seven  minutes.  It  has 
done  so  for  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  yeai-s,  in  fact 
ever  since  it  appeared. 

There  was  once  a  flourishing  plantation  where  this  vol- 
cano now  stands.  The  owner  had  been  away  for  a  few 
months,  and  on  his  return  he  fomid,  to  his  amazement, 
that  he  was  the  owner  of  a  great  volcano.  His  planta- 
tion had  entirely  disappeared.     His  servants  told  him  a 


20(; 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS    PEOPLE. 


inarvt'llouH  story  of  tlu!  .stiiiii^'t!  rumhliiifrs  and  (|Uiik- 
iiij,'s  tlit-y  had  heard  and  ftdt ;  (if  thu  fulling'  (h)\vn  of 
the  farm  lmildinj,'s;  of  tho  fhj,dit  of  many  of  the,  Hcr- 
vaiits ;  and,  histly,  of  the  \von(h'iful  rise,  which  the 
hnivcst  of  them  liad  witnessed,  of  an  active  volcano  four 
tlionsand  feet  liij,di.  The  saihirs  call  this  volcano  the 
"Lighthouse  of  Salvador,"  for  always,  by  night  and  by 
day,  volumes  of  smoko  and  tlamt;  are  jiouring  from  the 
mountain. 

Throughout  San  Salvador  tho  buildings  are  low  and 
unornam(!nt(;d.  This  is  because  they  are  fre(iuently 
destroyed  by  eartlKjuakes  or  other  volcanic  disturbancses. 
The  capital,  San  Salvador,  has  been  rebuilt  several  times 
within  the  last  few  hundred  years.  With  volcanoes 
[lopping  up  at  a  moment's  notice  in  the  centre  of  lakes 
or  coffee  jilantations,  tlie  inhabitants  do  not  have  that 
trust  in  the  permanency  of  their  labor,  which  would 
lead  them  to  spend  large  sums  on  the  decorations  of 
churches  and  other  public  buildings. 

San  Salvador  is  the  only  country  in  the  world  that 
produces  balsam.  The  balsam  trees  grow  along  the 
northern  part  of  the  coast,  which  is  called,  in  conse- 
quence, the  balsam  coast.  Balsam  is  a  kind  of  resin, 
which  is  used  in  making  perfumery  aiul  some  medicines. 

Other  exports  are  coffee,  indigo,  tobacco,  sai-saparilla, 
iiidia  rubber,  and  sugar.  The  indigo  of  San  Salvador 
yields  a  more  delicate  dye  than  that  raised  in  Guate- 
mala or  in  Bengal.  It  is  therefore  the  finest  in  the 
world. 

For  the  last  sixty  yeai-s  Nicaragua  has  been  going 
backward  in  wealth  and  population.     Its  commerce  was 


«Mai*«(Wju":*,i::ri*' 


I 


and  (juiik- 

l^    (IdWIl    of 

of  the  Hor- 
wliich  the 
olcaiio  four 
'olciino  thu 
jilt  and  by 
ij  from  the 

le  low  and 
frequently 
sturbances. 
veral  times 
I  volcanoea 
re  of  lakes 
have  that 
licK  would 
3rations  of 

world  that 
along  the 
,  in  ccmse- 
1  of  resin, 
medicines, 
ii-saparilla, 
I  Salvador 
in  Guate- 
est  in  the 

•een  going 
merce  was 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS, 

greater  iit  the  beginning  of  the  ccnlury  than  it  is 
at  its  tlosf.  And  yet  the  roimtry  ilsvU'  is  natu 
very  rich. 

If  the  country  is  divided 
into  three  nearly  equal 
parts,  each  part  will  have 
a  fairly  ilislinct  eharaetei' 
of  its  own.  The  western 
thir<l  of  the  state  is  very 
fertile ;  the  central  thii'd 
consists  of  line  gia/iiig 
land;  and  the  eastern 
third  contains  large  for- 
ests in  which  <ri(iw  larj^e 
nund»ers  of  valuable  ma- 
hogany and  caoutchouc 
trees.  The  reason  the 
western  part  of  the  state 
is  so  fertile  is  because  the 
upi)er  soil  is  made  uji  of 
volcanic  products,  includ- 
ing potash. 

Eighteen  volcanoes 
stand  about  Lakes  Ma- 
nagua and  Nicaragua,  and 
several  more  rise  from  the 
centre  of  Lake  Nicaragua. 
This  is  one  of  the  fiercest 
volcanic  regions  in  the 
whole  earth. 

In   1835,  the  eruption 


207 

now 
rally 


THE    WATER    CARRIER. 


»ua^««^v].r,«,t:^[4,> 


•JOH 


THE   WORID  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


(if  ( '(t8('j,MiiMii,  u  vnlciiii(»  in  till!  iiortliwt'Ht,  was  om-  <»l' 
tlu!  iiicisl  rciiiiii'kiiMn  tlio  world  Iium  rvor  Meoii.  Fur 
I'liur  tliiys  cIoikIh  of  liiva  iind  ii.slics  wcrtt  ciiHt  fioiii  tlio 
vtilciiiio  ii|i(iii  all  till'  ('oiiiiliy  idiinil.  SlMUVcrs  ol'  iislics 
Fell  ill  linLfotii,  lil'li'fii  liiiii<ln'(|  miles  iiwiiy,  in  (lie  West, 
Inili,fs,  and  in  Mexico.  'I'lu-  sen  lor  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  from  iUv  coast  of  Nicani^Mia  was  covercMl  witli 
ashes;  and  ashes  and  stones  fell  U|ion  the  decks  of  ves- 
sels far  out  at  sea.  Smoke;  darkened  (he  lijrht  of  the 
Hun  in  the  nei^hhorin^'  stales;  and  as  for  tlu!  poor  Niea- 
lagnans,  thoy  believed  that  the  end  of  the  world  had 
eonic. 

On  the  annivei'sary  of  its  last  eruption,  the  priests 
as(!end  to  the  sumnut  of  each  volcano  and  pour  holy 
water  into  its  crater.  This  is  called  haptizinj,'  the  vol- 
cano, and  it  is  believed  that  this  [irevents  eruptions 
from  it. 

'I'he  only  hi},'bway  in  the  country  is  one  runninjr  from 
(Jrainida  on  Lake  Nicaiiii,'ua  through  Managua,  tlui 
I)re.sent  capital,  to  the  chief  seaport,  Corinto.  Abmg 
the  road  art;  small  crosses,  whicb  mark  the  spot  where 
some  one  is  buried  who  was  slain  on  the  highway.  It 
is  true  that,  through  revolutions  and  private  (piaricls, 
more  blood  lias  been  .shed  in  Nicaragua  than  in  any 
other  .state  of  tlie  same  size  in  the  world. 

Over  this  road  the  ox  carts  journey.  The  noise  of 
the  nicdi  calling  to  their  oxen  and  the  .sound  of  the 
wheels,  which  are  never  oiled,  are  so  loud  that  they  are 
heard  fully  half  an  hour  before  they  appear  in  sight. 
Horsemen  riding  steeds  as  spirited  and  graceful  as  Ara- 
bian horses,  pa-ss  at  an  easy  pace ;  and  the  ever  patient 


was  (iiif  of 
Ht  from  tliu 

TS    (if    llsllfH 

II  llif  West 
iiiilicd  and 
»vfr»'<l  with 
'cks  of  vi;8- 
ij^Iit  of  tlu) 
|)oor  Nica- 
world  ]ia<l 

the  i»riosts 

poiii'  holy 

1},'  th(!   vdl- 

<   ei'iiptioiiM 

iiiiiiifr  from 
iiagua,  tho 
to.  Ahtiig 
spot  where 
]Lrliway.  Jt 
;t!  (|uan('ls, 
liaii  ui  any 

he  noise  of 
md  of  tlie 
at  tlu;y  are 
ir  in  sight, 
fill  as  A  ra- 
ver patient 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


20U 


ln(han   trots  swiftly  ahiug  with  his  enormous  h>ad,  on 
tlie  way  to  Managua. 

Tliis  city  has  only  of  late  years  had  the  honor  of 
heing  tlie  capital.  I.<ake  Managua,  with  its  heaiitifid 
shores  surrounded  hy  volcanoes,  is  east  (»f  the  city,  ami 
cuffeu  plantations  are  laid  out  on  the  hills  to  the  west. 

A  large  part  of  th;;  standing  army  of  the  statu  is 
(piartered  in  Nicaragua.  There  are  three  ollicers  to 
every  ten  privates.  TIm^  [)rivates  are  all  Indians.  The 
uniform  consists  of  a  suit  of  white  cotton  drilling  and  a 
blue  cap.  One  suit  in  every  ten  has  stamped  upon  the 
hack  of  the  coat  or  trousers  these  words,  in  large,  hlaek 
lettering,  —  "  Mest  Cotton  Drilling  XXXX  Mills."  The 
nativ(!S  think  this  is  a  great  ornament,  and  ([uarrel 
among  themselves  as  to  which  is  to  wear  the  uniform 
thus  decorated. 

The  eastern  sections  of  Honduras,  Nicaragua,  and 
Costa  Uica  are  covered  with  a  dense  tro[»ical  forest. 
(Jiant  trees  grow  straight  as  a  (hut  to  a  height  of  eighty 
feet.  Rank  after  rank,  file  after  file,  they  stretch  away 
into  the  distance,  their  thick,  matted  foliage  darkening 
the  ground  below. 

One  can  neither  see  nor  feel  the  ground  for  the  dense 
midergrowth.  Down  here  in  the  darkness  there  is  a 
vigorous  growth  of  strong,  stout  shrubs  and  plants. 
Here  and  there  a  pale  vine  reaches  its  slender  climbers 
ujjward,  lays  hob"  of  some  low  brani^h,  and  climbs  in 
time  above  the  moisl,  darkness  to  the  glad  sunlight. 

Many  of  the  great  trees  are  girdled  by  parasitic  vines 
which,  beginning  in  weakness  to  draw  their  life  from 
the  tree,  have  grown  to  such  might  that  all   the   sap 


I. 

I 


I 


210 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


M 


.  { 


which  the  faithful  roots  draw  in  for  the  nourishment  of 
the  tree,  goes  to  feed  them.  And  at  last  the  patriareh 
of  the  forest  dies,  chcked  in  their  embrace.  It  is  like 
the  story  of  the  chilled  viper  uiid  the  man.  Even  then 
the  tree  does  not  fall.  It  cannot.  The  surrounding 
trees  are  packed  about  it  so  thickly  that  it  must  still 
remain  in  its  place. 

Delicate  air  plants  and  orchids  blossom  on  the  lofty 
branches.  Beautiful  butterflies,  with  pale  blue  wings 
nine  inches  across,  Hit  like  flying  blossoms  through  the 
wood.  CJorgeous  parrots  scream  harshl}'  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  nimble  monkeys  scamper  up  the  trees  and 
then  sit  chattering  and  making  mouths  at  one  another. 

There  arc  dangers  in  this  forest.  Poisonous  plants 
cand  stinging  bushes  close  round  on  every  hand.  Flies, 
fleas,  mosquitoes,  scorpions,  and  centipedes  are  always 
ready  to  do  their  worst.  The  ground  grows  soft  under 
foot.  A  swamp  is  near,  where  horrible  snakes  coil  their 
slimy  lengths  in  many  iin  ugly  fold.  We  have  pene- 
trated at  last  to  the  home  m  the  mahogany  tree. 

The  mahogany  is  one  of  the  few  trees  in  Central 
America  whose  foliage  varies  with  the  seasons.  It  is 
by  this  changing  foliage  that  the  Indian,  from  the  top 
of  some  lofty  tree,  spies  it  out,  and,  with  unerring  judg- 
ment, lefids  the  wood  cutter  straight  toward  it. 

The  underbrush  is  cleared  away,  the  vines  and  lower 
branches  are  cut  off ;  and  then,  after  several  hours  of 
severe  labor,  the  great  mahogany  comes  crashing  down. 
It  is  often  seventy  feet  tall,  and  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
in  diameter. 

The  log  is  squcared  with  the  ax,  and  then  driigged 


ii< 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS, 


211 


rishpient  of 
e  patriarch 
It  is  like 
Even  then 
urrounding 
.  must  still 

m  the  lofty 
blue  wings 
luough  the 
in  the  dis- 
!  trees  and 
ne  another, 
lous  plants 
md.  Flies, 
are  always 
;  soft  under 
3s  coil  their 
have  pene- 
ree. 

in  Central 
4ons.  It  is 
im  the  top 
irring  judg- 
it. 

3  and  lower 

il  hours  of 

hing  down. 

to  ten  feet 

3n  dragged 


by  oxen  to  the  nearest  river.  Tliere  it  is  left  to  float, 
until  the  river  in  the  rainy  season  rises  and  bears  it 
down  to  more  civilized  regions  by  the  sea. 

The  caoutchouc,  or  india  rubber  tree,  also  grows  in 
these  forests.  In  the  spring  time,  wlien  the  sf^.  is  rising 
in  the  trees,  expeditions  are  organized  in  (Jiaytown  and 
sent  up  the  Sai\  Juan  River  to  the  india  rubber  regions. 
An  expedition  consists  of  from  thirty  to  forty  men, 
many  of  whom  are  forced  to  go  on  the  trip  because  they 
are  in  debt  to  the  rubber  merchants  who  furnish  them 
with  their  boat  and  provisions.  They  are  commanded 
by  a  patron,  or,  as  Yankee  boys  would  say,  a  boss. 

Each  man  carries  a  blanket,  a  small  pillow,  several 
pairs  of  sandals,  and  a  great  knife  alxiut  three  and  a 
half  feet  long.  The  blade,  which  is  from  two  and  a 
half  to  three  feet  long,  has  a  broad,  heavy  point  resem- 
bling that  of  a  butcher  knife.  This  is  a  very  formidable 
weapon,  and,  when  armed  with  it,  the  rubber  hunter 
feels  safe,  no  matter  how  many  snakes  and  wild  animals 
he  may  encounter  in  the  jungle. 

The  provisions  consist  of  strips  of  beef,  which  are 
sold  by  the  yard,  barrels  of  flour,  bags  of  beans  and  rice, 
bunches  of  plantains,  lumps  of  chocolate,  and  brown 
sugar.  The  rubber  hunter  carries  a  gun  and  line  ;  and, 
as  the  woods  are  full  of  small  game  and  the  rivers 
abound  with  fish,  he  always  has  a  variety  for  his  table. 

When  they  arrive  at  their  destination,  the  men  pro- 
ceed to  build  a  camp  by  driving  four  forked  stakes  into 
the  ground,  and  making  a  roof  thatched  with  palm 
leaves.  The  camp  is  open  on  all  four  sides,  and  mos- 
quitoes throng  about  at  night.     But  the  rubber  hunter 


i 


'i 


^■vsysfXV.s-'iTiiii', 


T~^-#^5;a's, 


212 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


protects  himself  against  their  venomous  late  by  rolling 
himself  in  his  blanket.  A  rude  lirei)laco  is  next  set 
up.  Having  made  tliesc  simple  arrangements  for  his 
comfort,  the  rubber  hunter  is  ready  for  work. 

His  dress  is  very  sim[)le.  It  consists  of  a  pair  of 
coarse  cotton  trousers  rolled  to  the  knee,  a  hand- 
kerchief knotted  about  his  head,  and  leather  sandals. 
Armed  with  his  trusty  knife,  and  carrying  his  bucket, 
he  starts  oft'  on  a  three  or  four  mile  tramp  to  visit  scnne 
tree  whose  position  he  has  marked  before.  He  cuts  his 
way  through  the  underbrush  with  the  knife,  all  the  way 
keeping  a  bright  lookout  ahead  for  snakes  and  otlier  foes. 

Arrived  at  the  caout(!houc  tree,  he  first  strips  it  of 
clinging  vines.  Then,  climbing  U  the  lower  branches, 
he  slowly  descends,  making  deep  cuts  into  the  tree,  now 
on  the  right  har.d,  now  on  the  left.  Each  cut  meets 
another  at  an  obtuse  angle,  so  that  there  is  a  cojuiected 
series  of  troughs  from  the  branches  to  the  base  of  the 
tree.  Into  the  lowest  cleft  the  rubber  hunter  fits  a  bit 
of  split  cane,  which  serves  the  purpose  of  a  small  pipe 
to  conduct  the  sap  into  the  bucket  placed  at  the  foot  of 
the  tree. 

Tlie  sap  is  now  running  into  the  bucket  at  the  rate 
of  ionv  gallons  an  hour.  A  fuU-giown  rubber  tree 
holds  about  twenty  gallons  of  sap,  and  will  run  dry  in 
one  day.  The  rubber  hunter,  having  tapped  about  a 
dozen  trees  in  the  same  neighborhood,  has  fill  he  can 
do  to  run  about  emptying  the  buckets  into  large  cans 
holding  ten  gallons  each. 

The  cans  are  taken  to  camp,  and  the  sap  is  strained 
into  barrels.     In  Brazil  the  sap  is  hardened  into  rubber 


'vi' 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


213 


hy  rolling 
^  next  set 
its  for  his 

a  pair  of 
,  a  haiul- 
iv  sandnls. 
lis  bucket, 
visit  some 
le  cuts  his 
,11  the  way 
otlier  foes, 
itrips  it  of 

branches, 
i  tree,  now 
cut  meets 

cojmected 
)ase  of  the 
;r  iits  a  bit 
small  pipe 
the  foot  of 

,t  the  rate 
ibber  tree 
run  dry  in 
sd  about  a 
all  he  can 
large  cans 

is  strained 
nto  rubber 


by  boiling  it;  in  Central  America  the  natives  mingle 
the  juice  of  a  certain  vine  with  the  sap,  which  causes  it 
to  become  hardened  in  a  comparatively  few  hours.  At 
first  the  rubber  is  wliite ;  but  with  exposure  to  the  air 
it  turns  black,  and  takes  the  appcjarance  with  which  we 
are  familiar. 

After  two  months  the  men  retuin  to  the  city,  and 
receive  the  portion  of  their  wages  which  is  not  withheld 
to  pay  their  former  debt«  to  their  employers.  Then 
follows  a  time  of  extravagance  and  i)leasure-seeking. 
They  spend  all  they  have  earned,  and  as  nuich  more  as 
their  employera  will  lend  them.  At  la^;t,  when  they 
can  borrow  no  more,  they  are  driven  through  sheer  neces- 
sity to  undertake  a  fresh  expedition  up  the  San  Juan. 

Most  of  these  rubber  hunters  are  never  out  of  debt. 
They  are  exactly  like  the  majority  of  Central  Ameri- 
cans. Each  rank  is  continually  in  debt  to  the  one  above 
it.  The  peasant  is  in  debt  to  the  planter,  the  planter 
to  the  merchant,  and  so  on.  The  stores  and  even  tlie 
railroads  are  run  on  the  credit  system. 

The  people  make  a  fatal  error  in  never  doing  to-day 
what  they  can  defer  till  to-morrow.  The  national  vice 
of  all  these  republics  is  indolence.  Manana,  which 
means  some  other  time,  is  the  word  on  every  one's  lips. 
"  The  Costa  Rican  is  always  lying  under  the  maiiana 
tree "  is  a  well-known  proverb  in  these  regions.  It 
would  be  just  as  true  a  saying,  if  tlie  word  Nicaraguan, 
or  native  of  Honduras,  were  substituted  for  the  Costa 
Rican.  That  is  what  lias  made  the  people  poor  and  the 
nations  bankrupt. 

Costa  Rica  is  the  Spanish  for  rich  coast.     The  name 


214 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


.   i 

I 


'J 


indicates  what  the  8[)aniard.s  hoped  the  country  would 
become.  'I'he  coffee  country  is  another  name  given  to 
Costa  Kica  witli  more,  appropriateness,  as  coffee  is  the 
chief  article  of  export. 

The  principal  cities  are  Port  Limon  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  San  Josd,  the  cai)ital.  Port  Limon  is  a  small 
city  of  wooden  and  l)aml)oo  huts,  bordered  on  three 
sides  by  forests,  and  looking  out  on  the  blue  sea  upon 
its  fourth  side.  At  noon  it  seems  indeed  a  sleepy 
little  place.  Breadfruit  trees  and  palms  wave  their 
great  leaves  dreamily ;  and  the  buzz  of  many  insects 
and  the  wash  of  the  level  waves  is  very  soothing. 

But  at  morning  and  at  evening  Port  Limon  awakens 
into  l)us\-  life.  Here  the  outgoing  ships  are  laden  with 
coffee  and  bananas.  A  tramway  runs  from  the  wharves 
to  the  wareliouses  in  the  city  and  thence  to  the  neigh- 
boring banana  plantations.  And,  as  a  crowning  proof  of 
progress,  Port  Limon  has  a  railroad  into  the  interior, 
seventy  miles  long. 

The  coffee  accumulates  in  the  city  warehouses ;  but 
the  bananas  must  be  picked  at  the  very  last  minute  pos- 
sible. Just  before  a  vessel  is  to  sail,  word  is  sent  to  the 
neighboring  plantations;  the  huge,  half  green  bunches 
are  picked  hurriedly  ;  and,  with  the  dew  still  upon  them, 
are  sent  by  tramway  to  the  wharves. 

There  they  are  packed  in  the  New  York,  New  Or- 
leans, or  Liverpool  steamers.  Often  there  are  six  mil- 
lion bananas  aboard  a  single  steamer,  but  they  are  apt 
to  spoil  so  quickly  that  only  half  the  cargo  reaches 
its  destination  in  perfect  condition. 

San  Josd  is  a  pleasant  little  town  among  the  high- 


'jsl  i' 


Tt^r^s^*Js.-v-^'M 


atry  would 
e  given  to 
iffee  is  the 

ic  Atlantic 
1  is  a  small 
I  on  three 
3  sea  upon 
I  a  sleepy 
wave  their 
my  insects 
ling. 

n  awakens 
laden  with 
he  wharves 
the  neigh- 
ng  proof  of 
lie  interior, 

lOUses ;  but 
minute  pos- 
sent  to  the 
en  bunches 
upon  them, 

[,  New  Or- 
re  six  niil- 
[ley  are  apt 
•go  reaches 

f  the  high- 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS, 


216 


lands,  with  a  ring  of  eight  vohiauoes  about  it.  The 
houses  of  adobe  are  built  only  one  story  high  in  order 
to  withstand  slight  eartlKjuakes. 

The  people,  like  all  the  Central  Americans,  are  ex- 
tremely polite  and  courteous.  The  higher  tlassos  are 
well  educated,  and  the  peasants  have  a  grace  and  sweet- 
ness of  salutation  that  is  remarkable.  "  May  Heaven 
smile  upon  your  errand,"  "  IMay  your  patron  saint  pro- 


AN    ADOBE    HOUSE. 


tect  you,"  are  some  of  their  pretty  greetings  to  stran- 
gers on  the  road.  If  a  lady  is  with  the  party,  the  hat 
is  removed  immediately. 

So  you  see  that,  as  every  one  has  some  i^edeeniing 
feature,  there  are  even  good  traits  about  those  intoler- 
ably idle  people,  the  natives  of  Costa  Rica. 


"it-^mi^^mm 


w. 


^ 


I 


■ll 


I; 
lii". 


OUR  AMERICAN  NEIGHBORS. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


iii8 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


I 


THE    ROYAL    PALMS,    RIO    JANEIRO. 


y^L 


^sssssssasssriS" 


OUR  AMERICAJNT  NEIGHBORS. 


SOUTH   AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

A   BIRD'S-EYE   VIEW  OV  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

To  become  acquainted  with  the  last  of  our  American 
neighbors  we  must  leave  our  own  continent  of  North 
America  and  enter  another,  the  continent  of  South 
America.  This  is  our  most  distant  neighl)or,  yet  still  it 
is  our  neighbor;  for  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  Oceans, 
which  separate  us  from  the  Eastern  world,  separate 
South  America  also  from  the  East ;  and  the  two  conti- 
nents. North  America  and  South  America,  clasp  hands 
at  the  Isthmus. 

Although  South  America  was  discovered  and  colo- 
nized at  the  same  time  as  North  America,  there  is  not 
so  much  of  it  settled.  Two-thirds  of  it  lie  within  the 
torrid  zone,  and  the  hot  climate  causes  such  intense  lazi- 
ness in  the  people  that  miles  upon  miles  of  the  continent 
have  never  been  explored.  Within  the  tropics  the  nec- 
essary fruits  and  vegetables  grow  with  so  little  culti- 
vation, that  man  can  lead  a  life  of  perfect  idleness. 
This  bounteousness  of  nature,  in  the  way  of  climate  and 
food,  is  consequently  not  really  a  blessing. 

219 


220 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


^ 


South  Ainciic;a  is  a  frroat  triangle.  Its  baso  lies 
toward  tlii!  north,  Avhilo  its  apex,  Capt!  Horn,  is 
toward  tl  south.  It  is  ono  of  the  snialh'st  of  the 
grand  divisions,  being  smaller  than  North  America  and 
larger  tiian  Europe. 

It  rescmhh's  North  America  in  having  a  great  moun- 
tain system  on  the  west,  a  smaller  one  on  the  east,  and  a 
large  plain  lying  between  them.  'I'he  central  plain  has 
two  sloi)es,  a  northern  and  a  southein.  'J'lie  m)rthern 
slope  is  drained  by  the  Amazon  and  the  Orinoco,  and 
the  southern  slope  by  thi;  La  Plata.  These  are  three 
of  the  greatest  riveis  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  Their 
branches  reach  into  the  remotest  parts  of  the  eontincnit, 
and  serve  as  highways  where  it  would  he  impossible  to 
build  roads. 

South  America  may  be  divided  into  six  importcant 
regions.  Two  of  these  regions  extend  from  north  to 
south,  and  the  other  four  extend  from  west  to  east, 
beginning  with  the  western  coast,  we  find,  first,  the 
lowlands  of  the  coast,  and,  secondly,  the  mountain 
region. 

The  lowlands  of  the  coast  vary  in  width  from  thirty 
to  a  few  hundred  miles.  The  central  part  of  the  coast 
is  barren,  but  the  northern  and  the  southern  parts  are 
quite  fertile. 

Then  come  the  mountain  jjlateaus  from  which  the 
mountain  chains  of  the  Andes  rise.  The  Andes  form 
one  of  the  longest  and  grandest  mountain  systems  in 
the  world.  They  consist  of  many  ranges,  which  some- 
times run  parallel,  and  sometimes  cross  one  another  and 
branch  off  to  the  right  and  left.     There  are  clusters  of 


m 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


s   1)a.se  lies 
I  loll),    is 

lest    (if    tlio 

inoi'icH  and 
rcat  ninun- 

Ciist,  illltl  u 

1  i)liiiii  lias 

0  iKiithorn 
riiioco,  and 
!  aio  three 
ibo.     Their 

1  contnunit, 
[possible  to 

important 
II  iioitli  to 
st  to  ea»st. 
,   first,  the 

mountain 

rom  thirty 
if  the  coast 
I  parts  are 

which  the 
ndes  form 
systems  in 
Inch  some- 
nother  and 
clusters  of 


mountain  j.eaks  where  the  eliains  eross.  iU-tweeii  the 
various  raiiKi'H  aiv  lofty  valleys,  which  oiTer  line  sites 
for  towns.  Sin^'lt!  inouiitain  peaks,  eovered  with  snow, 
rise  to  hei^'hts  of  from  twenty  thousand  to  twenty-four 
thousand  feet.  Many  of  these  niounlains  are  volcanoes, 
and  earth(inak(fs  are  tiuite  eoinnion  near  the  Andes. 

From  the  Andes,  chains  branch  oil"  ami  run  towards 
the  cast,  deliniiiK  the  other  ie^n„i,,s.  '['he  i'arima  Cor- 
dilleras, or  I'arima  Mountains,  are  one  of  these  blanches. 
They  separate  the  valley  of  the  Orinoco  from  the  valley 
of  the  Amazon. 

The  third  re<,d(iii  of  South  America  is  the  lliinos,  or 
plains  of  the  Orinoco.  Thesi'  are  plains  which  arc 
covered  with  grass  and  dotted  here  and  there  with 
clumps  of  trees.  In  the  dry  sea.son,  the  sun  Imkcs  the 
earth  so  that  .seams  open,  and  lizards  and  salamandei.-s 
are  seen  baskuig  in  the  warm  crevices. 

The  fourth  region  consists  of  the  forest  iilains,  or 
selvas,  of  the  Amazon.  These  are  vast  tropical  forests, 
teeming  with  vegetable  and  animal  life.  Many  largo 
and  fierce  animals,  and  a  few  tribes  of  savages,  luid  their 
homes  within  these  forests. 

The  fifth  region  consists  of  the  treeless  plains,  or 
pampas,  of  the  La  Tlata.  The  country  is  covered  with 
coai-se  grass  and  weeds.  Thistles  abound,  and  herds  of 
wild  cattle  and  horses  lind  pasturage  there. 

The  sixth  and  last  region  consists  of  the  series  of 
hills  and  valleys  that  roll  away  to  the  eastward  through 
Brazil.  The  mountains  are  known  as  the  Brazilian 
Mountains,  and  there  is  no  sign  of  a  volcano  among 
them.     The  valleys  and  mountains  toward  the  east  are 


"i»i'"W#fe^:^,, 


222 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


wooded.  Towm-d  tlio  wi-.st  thoy  givo  way  to  open 
IilaiiiH,  \vlii(d»  Imu'oiik!  unite  Iwrieii  iis  tlio  centre  of  tlio 
continent  is  leaclKHl. 

With  this  genenil  idea  of  tlie  Htnfacc^  of  the  eotnitry, 
let  us  visit  the  individual  states  of  South  Anieiiea, 
and  olwervo  tlie  people  in  their  homes  and  on  tho 
street.  I.et  us  notice  how  they  dress,  what  they  eat, 
what  they  say,  and  the  cities  they  have  built  for  theni- 
selves;  in  short,  let  us  hcconie  so  well  ac(iuainted, 
that,  through  our  growing  interest  in  them,  wo  may  be 
neighbors  indeed. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  GREAT   KKI'l'ULIC  OF  THE  SOUTH. 

South  of  the  ecpiator  lies  a  country  nearly  as  large  as 
the  United  St^ite.s,  and  quite  as  rich  in  mineral,  vege- 
table, and  animal  wealth.     This  country  is  Brazil. 

Within  a  few  years  the  p-overnment  has  Ixjen  changed 
from  a  mojiarchy  to  a  repu  aic.  Its  model  is  the  Great 
Itepublic  of  the  North,  as  the  natives  of  South  America 
call  our  own  country.  Its  ambition  is  to  be  to  South 
America  what  the  United  States  is  to  North  America. 

Brazil  may  be  divided  into  three  regions.  The  first 
region  extends  from  the  northern  boundary  of  Brazil  to 
the  tenth  parallel  of  latitude,  and  comprises  the  selvas, 
or  the  region  of  greatest  vegetable  wealth.  The  second 
region  extends  from  the  tenth  to  the  twentieth  parallel 
of  latitude,  and  comi)rises  the  gold  and  diamond  mines. 


m^ 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


228 


iiy   to   (ipeii 
;eiitro  of  tlio 

llu!  country, 
til  Aiiifiicii, 
uiid  oil  the 
at  they  eiit, 
It  for  thuin- 
iUMjutiiiitcd, 
,  wo  may  bo 


Til. 

r  as  large  as 
neral,  vege- 
lirazil. 
Ben  changed 
is  the  Great 
ith  America 
be  to  South 
America. 
.  The  first 
of  Brazil  to 
I  the  selvas, 
The  second 
Bth  parallel 
lond  mines, 


or  the  region  of  gieatest  mineral  wealth.  The  third 
region  lies  In'tween  the  twentieth  and  thirtieth  parallels, 
and  is  the  caltle-iiiiHing  legion  of  the  coinitry.  Tim 
first  of  these  regions  is  low  land,  the  other  two  are 
high  land. 

The  tii-st  region  comprises  the  northern  half  of  the 
coiuitry  of  Mrazil.  Through  it  Hows  the  Amazon  Uiv(!r, 
the  largest,  though  not  tht;  longest,  river  in  the  world. 
With  its  tributaries,  it  drains  one-third  of  the  continent 
of  South  America. 

The  head  stream  of  the  Amazon  rises  at  the  base  of 
the  Andes,  only  sixty  miles  from  the  Tacitic^  Ocean. 
The  river  nearly  divides  the  continent,  and  forms  a 
wonderful  water  highway  to  the  remotest  spot  in  the 
centre  of  South  America. 

The  Amazon  is  about  four  thousand  miles  in  length. 
It  has  eight  tributaries,  each  one  thousand  miles  long; 
and  it  affords,  with  its  branches,  fifty  thousand  miles  of 
water  navigable  for  sailing  vessels,  and  twenty-five 
thousand  miles  that  are  open  to  steand)oats.  The  width 
of  the  Amazon  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course  is  from 
two  to  ten  miles.  Its  average  dei>th  is  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet.  It  is  over  three  hundred  feet  deep  at  its 
mouth. 

Part  of  the  Amazon  Valley  is  covered  with  forests. 
The  name  selvas  is  a])plied  to  this  wooded  section  of 
the  Amazon  Valley,  which  is  fifteen  hundred  miles  long 
and  one  thousand  miles  broad. 

But  these  figui-es  mean  little.  If  you  could  only  Ijo 
transported  to  the  very  centre  of  the  encircling  forest, 
and  stand  on  the  shore  of  the  mighty  river,  and  gaze 


I 


'T^mtfiti^m^i^i, 


224 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 


iiiul  tliink  until,  in  some  little  measme,  you  niiglit  begin 
dimly  to  comin-eliund  its  greatness  and  its  miglit! 

Yon  have  stood  on  the  seashore  and  looked  off  across 
the  waters  in  the  direetion  whei'e  they  appear  to  be 
unbounded  by  land.  You  have  the  same  wide  view 
from  tlie  bank  of  the  Amazon,  only  the  waters  rolling 
by  are  ot  a  yellowish  color  instead  of  the  blue  of  the 
sea.  Shade  your  eyes  with  your  hand.  What  is  that 
dim  line  on  the  very  edge  of  the  horizon^  Perhaps  it 
is  the  further  shore  of  the  river.  No,  indeed,  it  is  but 
an  island  in  the  middle  of  the  stream.  The  rivei'  readies 
as  far  beyond  your  sight  as  that  island  is  distant  from 
you  now.  The  width  of  the  Amazon  at  this  spot  is 
twice  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see. 

This  mighty  inland  sea  extends  a  thousand  miles 
westward  to  the  base  of  the  Andes,  and  a  thousand  miles 
eastward  to  where  it  flows  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
All  about  you  is  the  wonderful  tropical  forest,  reaching 
seven  hundred  miles  to  the  north  and  seven  hundred 
miles  to  the  south,  five  hundred  miles  easterly  and  five 
hundred  miles  westerly. 

There  are  forests  in  Central  America,  but  tliey  are 
nothing  when  compared  with  the  selvas.  The  Amazon, 
you  will  notice  on  the  map,  runs  very  nearly  on  the 
line  of  the  equator.  Ro  day  after  day  tlie  great  red  sun 
pours  its  rays  downward  fiom  the  zenith,  while  columns 
of  moisture  rise  from  the  river. 

This  excessive  heat  and  moisture  lead  to  a  luxuriance 
of  vegetation  such  as  is  seen  in  no  other  region  of  the 
world.  In  the  eastern  part  of  Brazil,  wood  that  has 
been  split  and  used  for  making  fences  shoots  forth  green 


"1 


"^■1  !"llJIV'''P!W«WFiP"B"N«'' 


\ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


225 


might  begin 
niglit! 

:e(l  off  across 
ippoiir  to  be 
e  wide  view 
aters  rolling 

blue  of  the 
Vhat  is  that 
Peihaps  it 
ed,  it  is  but 
rivei'  reaches 
distant  from 

this  spot   is 

usand  miles 
)usand  miles 
iitie  Ocean. 
3st,  reaching 
en  hundred 
3rly  and  five 

mt  they  are 
'he  Amazon, 
jarly  on  the 
reat  red  sun 
lile  columns 

I  luxuriance 

3gion  of  the 

od  that  has 

forth  green 


buds  and  leaves,  (irass  and  cree[)ing  plants  often  spread 
from  the  edge  cf  a  jkxiI,  and  so  cover  its  surface  that  the 
traveler  walks  upon  it  as  if  it  were  solid  ground,  and  is 
only  warned  of  his  blunder  by  seeing  the  ugly  jaws  of  a 
crocodile  rising  through  the  green  turf  before  him. 
Under  such  conditions  of  growth,  it  is  not  remarkable 
that  the  trees  and  the  shrubs  should  be  giants  of  their 
kind. 

Enter  the  green  gloom  of  the  selvas  and  look  about 
you.  You  are  able  to  see  but  a  few  feet  in  any  direc- 
tion, so  densely  do  the  trees  and  vines  grow  on  all  sides. 
Unlike  our  northern  forests,  which  open  up  a  series  of 
avenues  or  pathways  to  tlie  feet  of  the  tniveler,  tiiis 
forest  presents  a  ])lank  wall  to  his  eye,  and  clogs  his 
footsteps  with  clinging  vines  and  undergrowth.  It  is 
a  labyrinth,  a  wilderness,  a  vast  tangle. 

Most  of  the  trees  are  over  one  hundred  feet  tall. 
Many  are  twice  that  height.  Here  are  sturdy  giants 
forty  and  even  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  and  then 
again  tender  saplings  that  you  can  enclose  with  your 
hands. 

The  trunks  of  the  trees  are  what  the  traveler  gener- 
ally sees,  for  the  foliage  is  always  far  above  and  turned 
away  from  him,  turned  upward  and  outward  to  catch 
the  sunlight. 

It  is  an  upward  struggle  to  reach  the  light  on  the 
part  of  all.  A  young  tree  stands  no  chance  wh.'itever  in 
the  forest  twilight  near  the  ground.  Its  oidy  chance  is 
to  crowd  its  stem  upward  l)etween  the  great  trunks 
that  have  worked  their  way  up  before  it. 

The  young  sapling  has  to  struggle  with  and  perhaps 


-»5f-:r-R«w^3!SS&».*«B^iM"~- 


226 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


! 


push  back  and  destroy  a  dozen  other  younj,'  trees.  At 
hist  it  penetrates  tlie  j,neat  roof  of  verdure  that  shuts  iji 
the  lower  forest,  catches  the  lii-st  <,d()rious  burst  of  sun- 
shine, and  puts  forth  a  shower  of  green  leaves  in  answer 
to  the  light 

This  upi)er  world  is  a  true  paradise.  Billows  of  green 
stretc;h  away  for  miles  ;  brilliant  red,  purple,  and  yellow 
flowers  relieve  the  green;  and  birds,  butterflies,  and 
bees,  riot  in  the  sunshine,  the  fresh  air,  and  the  beauty. 
No  one  can  know  what  the  top  of  the  Amazon  forest  is, 
unless  he  takes  a  balloou  and  sails  above  this  wonder- 
ful upper  world. 

But  as  that  excui-sion  is  hardly  possible,  the  traveler 
must  content  himself  with  a  study  of  tree  trunks.  Some 
grow  smaller  as  they  lise,  some  larger ;  some  are  girt 
with  creepers  so  that  they  resemble  a  maypole  adorned 
with  ribbons ;  others  are  smooth  as  a  polished  floor. 
They  A^ary  in  color  from  black,  brown,  and  red,  to  yel- 
low, gray,  and  white. 

The  parasitic  creepere  and  vines  run  to  and  fro  from 
tree  to  tree,  looking  like  the  cordage  of  a  ship.  They 
are  so  many  and  form  so  close  a  network  that  they 
might  be  said  to  resemble  a  cobweb.  Some  are  as 
thick  as  .small  trees,  and  their  winding,  twisting  growth 
makes  them  appear  like  snakes. 

Hie  trees  here  are  covered  with  the  most  beautiful 
orchids,  which  grow  on  their  trunks  and  branches. 
The  colors  of  these  orchids  are  not  so  delicate  as  they 
are  brilliant.  This  is  true  of  all  South  American 
flowers  and  birds.  Some  one  has  said  that  the  whole 
country  looks  as  if  it  were  painted  red  and  yellow. 


'i\r 


I 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


>27 


f,'  trees.  At 
that  shuts  ill 
jurst  of  sun- 
res  in  answer 

lows  of  green 
I!,  and  yellow 
tterllies,  and 
I  the  beauty, 
zon  forest  is, 
tliis  wonder- 

,  the  traveler 
links.  Some 
ijine  are  girt 
pole  adorned 
olished  floor. 
1  red,  to  yel- 

and  fro  from 
ship.  They 
k  that  they 
■iome  are  as 
sting  growth 

ost  beautiful 
lid  branches, 
icate  as  they 
h  American 
lit  the  whole 
yellow. 


The  loaves  of  the  trees  vary  in  color  from  a  pale 
green  to  alnuist  a  black,  'i'lic  ground  in  the  forest 
is  carpeted  deeply  with  grasses,  ferns,  and  matted 
vines. 

The  value  of  the  vegetation  of  the  selvas  is  untold. 
Here  is  found  mahogany,  rosewood,  and  tortoise  shell 
wood,  for  the  cabinetmaker;  Ihazil  wood  for  the  dyer; 
sai'sapi'.i'illa  and  cinchona  for  the  doctor;  the  cow  tree 
for  the  Indian  ;  and  the  India  rubber  tree  for  nearly 
every  artist  and  tradesman. 

There  are  as  many  different  kinds  of  animals  in  the 
forests  of  the  Amazon  as  there  are  ditt'eient  kinds  of 
plants.  Playful  monkeys  .swing  from  tree  to  tree,  chat- 
tering and  grimacing.  One  kind  of  monkey  uses  his 
tail  cas  an  extra  paw.  He  fastens  it  about  a  branch  and 
swings  by  it,  or  uses  it  for  clutching  branches  while 
passing  from  tree  to  tree. 

The  howling  monkey  is  a  very  ugly  animal.  It  is 
often  heard  in  the  forests  at  night,  shrieking  in  a  most 
unmusical  manner.  It  is  startling  to  hear  a  migrating 
colony  of  these  monkeys  give  their  cry. 

Other  strange  sounds  often  echo  through  the  forest. 
The  jaguar  roars,  the  wildcat  yells,  and  then  the  whole 
woodland  orchestra  begins. 

The  chatter  of  the  parrots  is  heard  continually,  and 
their  bright  i)lumage  seems  like  sunshine  in  the  shades 
of  the  forest.  They  and  the  humming  birds,  those  gor- 
geous specks,  are  of  all  the  eoloi-s  of  the  rainbow. 

The  toucans  are  interesting  and  curious  birds.  They 
are  afflicted  with  so  huge  a  bill  that  thdy  cannot  build 
nests.     So  they  lelect  a  convenient  knot  hole  in  a  tree, 


I 


228 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


and  there  proceed  to  make  a  home  for  themselves  and 
tlieir  little  ones. 

As  you  might  suppose,  the  forests  swarm  with  insects. 
Tliere  are  large,  lovely  huttertlies  of  the  most  heautiful 
tints,  —  such  as  pale  blue  and  scarlet. 

But  most  of  the  insects  are  not  as  harmless  as  the 
butterfly.  Many  are  poisonous  and  dangerous.  There 
are  the  flies,  the  ticks,  —  little  creatures  that  bury  them- 
selves in  the  flesh  of  the  traveler, — armies  of  stinging 
ants,  and  millions  of  mosc^uitoes. 

The  mos(]uitoes  are  the  pest  of  tlie  upper  Amazon. 
The  traveler  has  to  protect  himself  by  wearing  mos- 
quito netting  over  his  head  in  the  daytime.  The  poor 
Indian  is  driven  nearly  wild  by  them,  and  resorts  to  the 
most  desperate  measures  to  defend  himself  against  his 
tiny  foes.  lie  buries  himself  up  to  the  neck  in  mud, 
.and  then  winds  wet  cloths  about  his  head.  Sometimes 
he  builds  fires  close  to  his  tent  and  tries  to  smoke  tlie 
mosquitoes  out.  TJut  the  smoke  is  almost  as  injurious 
to  the  Indian  as  it  is  to  the  mosquito. 

Besides  the  selvas,  through  which  we  have  been  wan- 
dering, there  are  submerged  forests.  To  examine  them 
a  canoe  and  a  guide  would  be  very  necessary.  There 
are  many  channels  parallel  with  the  Amazon.  Some 
are  large  enough  to  appear  to  be  the  main  stream  and 
to  mislead  inexperienced  boatmen. 

In  the  rainy  season,  when  the  Amazon  rises,  and  all 
the  main  ch!.nnels  and  tributaries  share  in  its  rise,  the 
forests  on  its  banks  are  flooded ;  and  for  several  months 
only  the  tops  of  the  trees  appear  above  the  surface  of 
the  river.     As  the  boatmen  steer  by  the  banks,  it  is  at 


%lV 


■'  ,yS!SW3i^W^- . 


! 


leni selves  and 

n  with  insects, 
nost  beautiful 

irniless  as  the 
ei'ou.s.  There 
lat  bury  them- 
es of  stinging 

[)per  Amazon. 

wealing  nios- 
iie.     The  poor 

resorts  to  the 

ilf  against  his 

neck  in  mud, 

Sometimes 

to  smoke  tlie 
st  as  injurious 

ave  been  wan- 
Bxamine  them 
ssary.  There 
nazon.  Some 
in  stream  and 

rises,  and  all 
in  ifs  rise,  the 
eveval  months 
the  surface  of 
banks,  it  is  at 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


229 


such  times  more  diiTicult  tlian  usual  to  select  the  main 
stream.  Small  sailing  vessels  have  sometimes  left  it 
and  wandered  for  weeks  amid  the  confusing  lanes  and 
avenues  of  the  forest  itself. 

The  Amazon  has  four  large  tributaries  from  the 
'  south.  The  Madeira  is  the  largest.  Its  waters  are 
yellower  than  those  of  tl»e  Amazon,  because  it  carries 
more  fine  mud  in  solution. 

Travelers  often  sail  down  the  western  coast  of  South 
America,  and  cross  the  Andes  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Lake  Titicaca  in  Bolivia.  The  head  waters  of  the 
Madeira  rise  in  this  region,  and  tourists  fre(piently  take 
canoes  and  Indian  guides  and  float  down  this  river  to 
the  Amazon. 

The  great  obstruction  to  the  peaceful  sail  is  the  falls 
of  the  Madeira.  I'here  are  nineteen  falls  within  two 
hundred  and  thirty  miles.  A  few  can  be  descended  in 
the  canoe,  but  in  nearly  every  case,  the  cargo,  and  very 
often  the  canoe  itself,  lias  to  be  carried  around  the  falls. 
Think  how  tedious  it  must  be  for  a  party  to  be  obliged 
to  move  half  a  dozen  canoes  upon  rollers,  through  a 
dense  forest  swarming  with  mosquitoes  and  other  tor- 
ments. 

A  single  railroad  of  two  hundred  miles  around  the 
frills  would  be  a  great  blessing.  Several  attempt^s  have 
been  made  to  construct  such  a  road,  but  tiic  place  is 
so  unliealthful  that  the  English  and  German  engineers 
and  wo  ^men  die  of  malaria  soon  after  entering  upon 
their  work« 

There  are  many  stagui.nt  pools  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  falls,  and  malarial  gases  and  vapors  are  always 


230 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


rising  from  their  surfaces.  Tlie  workmen  hii\e  endeav- 
ored to  remove  these  pools*  by  blasting  rocks,  but  all  to 
no  purpose.  The  leading  men  sicken  and  die  ;  then  the 
remainder  of  the  party  lose  hope  and  abandon  the  under- 
taking. (Certain  tribes  of  Indians  could  work  here 
safely;  but  they  are  too  lazy,  and  prefer  their  occupa-  * 
tion  of  boatman  to  that  of  common  laborer. 

The  valley  of  the  Madeira  is  one  of  the  chief  rubber 
regions  of  the  Amazon.  The  rude  huts  of  the  rubl)er 
gatherers  stand  in  many  places  along  the  sliores  of  the 
river.  They  are  built  of  bamboo  and  thatched  with 
palm  leaves,  or  else  they  are  made  of  mud. 

There  are  two  particulars  in  which  rubber  making  in 
Brazil  differs  from  rubber  making  in  C!cnti'al  America. 
Fii-st,  the  sap  is  collected  in  small  clay  cups,  one  of 
whicii  is  placed  beneath  every  cut  in  the  trunk  of  the 
tree;  and,  secondly,  the  hardening  of  the  rubber  is 
effected  by  a  different  and  curious  process. 

After  having  collected  a  large  amount  of  sap  in  a 
great  turtle  shell,  the  rubber  maker,  witli  his  pipe  in 
his  mouth  and  his  turtle  shell  by  his  side,  sits  down 
before  what  looks  like  a  large  lamp  chimney.  It  is 
really  a  small  clay  stove.  The  smoke  coming  from  the 
top  shows  that  there  is  a  fire  within. 

Tlie  Indian  takes  a  light  wooden  shovel,  dips  up  some 
of  the  caoutchouc,  and  holds  it  over  the  cliimney.  The 
smoke  and  the  heat  harden  the  sap  to  rubber.  Tlie 
rubber  is  at  first  of  a  milk  white  color,  but  the  smoke 
blackens  it  after  a  while. 

When  the  first  layer  is  hardened,  the  Indian  dips  up 
more  sap  and  hardens  that  over  the  firet  layer;  and  so 


■1' 


m 


jiimiwi 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


231 


ill  hii\e  eiideav- 
Dcks,  but  all  to 
il  die  ;  then  the 
idon  the  iiiuler- 
uld  work  here 
!!•  their  occupa-  ' 
er. 

lie  chief  rubber 
i  of  the  rubber 
e  sliores  of  the 

thatched  with 
d. 

)ber  making  in 
iuti'al  America. 
f  cups,  one  of 
e  trunk  of  the 

the   rubber  is 

13SS. 

it  of  sap  in  a 
til  his  pipe  in 
ide,  sits  down 
himney.  It  is 
lining  from  the 

L  dips  up  some 

;himney.     The 

rubber.      Tlie 

but  the  smoke 

Fndian  dips  up 
hvyer ;  and  so 


on,  until  the  rubber  cake  which  he  is  making  comes  to 
the  desired  thickness. 

Tlie  rubber  shoes  that  were  worn  forty  years  ago 
were  made  by  the  Indians  of  tlic  ^laihiira.  Tliey  nuule 
clay  moulds  of  the  desired  shape  and  size,  di^ipcd  tiiem 
repeatedly  in  the  sap,  and  liardened  them  over  the  chim- 
ney.    At  bust  rubber  shoes  Avere  made. 

But  some  one  may  ask  who  could  ever  wear  them, 
filled  as  they  were  with  clay.  The  Indians  managed 
that.  They  soaked  the  shoes  in  water  until  the  clay 
softened  and  could  be  easily  removed. 

The  largest  tributary  of  the  Amazon  from  the  north 
is  the  Rio  Negro.  The  waters  of  this  river  are  of  inky 
blackness,  and  can  be  distinguished  fiom  the  yellow 
tide  of  the  Amazon  for  some  distance  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Rio  Negro. 

There  is  one  very  singular  fact  concerning  the  Cassi- 
quiare,  a  river  north  of  the  Rio  Negro.  Some  months 
it  flows  into  the  Rio  Negro,  and  is  thus  a  tributary  of 
the  Amazon ;  and  some  montlis  it  flows  into  the  Orinoco. 
The  direction  of  its  flow  depends  upon  the  rising  or  fall- 
ing of  the  Amazon. 

The  rainy  season  south  of  the  equator  is  from  March 
till  September.  The  largest  tributaries  of  tlie  Amazon 
come  from  south  of  the  equator,  and  are  much  swollen 
during  these  months.  Consequently  the  Amazon  itself 
reaches  its  greatest  height  at  this  time. 

Its  surface  is  higher  then  than  that  of  the  Rio  Negro, 
which  at  that  time  is  lower  than  usual,  because  of  the 
dry  season  prevailing  in  that  part  of  South  America 
north  of  the  equator.     The  waters  of  the  Rio  Negro  are 


•w 


,.-"^ 


232 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


I'll 


Ml!  ' 


I    1    I 


.   '  ! 


dammed  back  slightly  l)y  tin;  flooded  Amazon,  and  tlie 
waters  of  the  C'lvssiciuiare  arc  so  licld  back  tliat  tliey 
are  even  turned  into  the  channel  of  the  Orinoco. 

When  the  rainy  season  prevails  north  of  the  efjuator, 
the  Cassiquiare  flows  into  tlie  Amazon  through  the  Rio 
Negro. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Kio  Negro  lies  the  town  of 
Manaos.  This  is  not  a  celebrated  or  well  known  city  as 
yet,  but  before  long  it  will  be 

Para,  by  reason  of  its  position  at  t])(!  month  of  the 
Amazon  and  its  greater  nearness  to  luiroi)e  and  the 
United  States,  will  sooner  or  later  surpass  Rio  Janeiro; 
and  the  prophets  also  say  that  Manaos  is  destined  to 
surpass  Para.  Lafge  steameis  will  then  ascend  the 
Amazon  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Negro,  and  be  laden 
with  the  i)roduets  that  formerly  were  shipped  to  Para. 

Manaos  is  the  centre  of  the  Amazon  Valley,  as  St. 
Louis  is  the  centre  of  the  Mississij)pi  Valley.  It  has 
rather  a  forlorn  look  at  present.  Most  of  the  houses 
are  dila[)i(lated  buildings  of  one  story.  Flocks  of  tur- 
key buzzards  perch  on  the  ridges  of  the  houses  so  con- 
stantly that  the  traveler  often  takes  them  for  wooden 
ornaments. 

There  are  one  or  two  fine  public;  buildings.  There  is 
a  market  house  of  zinc  i)la(>ed  ciommandiiigly  upon  a 
bluff.  And  tliere  is  the  foundation  of  a  grand  oj)era 
house  of  red  sandstone,  finer  even  than  the  one  at  Para. 
The  stru(;ture  is  oidy  ten  feet  high ;  for  they  have 
ceased  working  upon  it,  because  the  money  hiis  given 
out. 

In  all  the  business  streets  there  is  a.  constant  smell 


'-i^u^ 


iizoii,  aiul  tlio 
uk  tluit  they 
iuoco. 

till!  e(}uator, 
)tigli  tlie  Rio 

the  town  of 
<no\vn  city  as 

iiouth  of  the 
•oi)e  and  the 
Rio  Janeiro ; 
1  destined  to 
1  ascend  the 
and  he  hxden 
ted  to  Para, 
'^allc}',  as  St. 
Hey.  It  has 
f  the  lioiises 
''locks  of  tui'- 
ouses  so  con- 
fer wooden 

rs.  There  is 
ugly  upon  a 
grand  opera 
one  at  Para. 
•  they  have 
sy  has  given 

nstant  smell 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


238 


of  ruhbor.  The  warehouses  are  staitked  with  great 
wedges  and  chunks  of  rubber,  which  resemble  cheeses. 
Beside  rubber,  Manaos  exports  cocoa,  sarsi'puilla,  Brazil 
nuts,  lish,  and  turtles. 

The  turtles  are  very  plentiful  along  the  Madeira. 
When  the  natives  find  them  upon  the  shore  of  the 
river,  they  tiu-n  them  upon  their  backs  and  then  they 
have  them  safe. 

Brazil  nuts  are  gatheied  by  the  natives.  Often  as 
many  as  nine  litthi  nuts  are  packed  closely  into  one 
large  shell.  The  hard  shells  sometimes  fall  upon  the 
heads  of  Iiulians  and  kill  them.  The  collecting  of  Brazil 
nuts  for  export  is  one  of  the  many  dillicult  and  perilous 
tasks  which  the  Indians  of  Brazil  have  to  perform. 

In  descending  the  Amazon  from  Manaos,  very  few 
vessels  are  seen.  This  is  because  the  river  is  so  wide. 
Owing  to  the  trade  wind  which  blows  continually 
from  east  to  west,  vessels  can  sail  up  the  Amazon  quite 
as  fast  as  the  current  can  carry  them  down.  A 
schooner  with  furled  sails  would  drift  from  the  base  of 
the  Andes  to  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  in  two  months  ; 
and  the  wind  would  carry  it  nearly  as  far  in  the  same 
time,  on  its  return  tri^)  up  the  stream. 

Obidos  is  situated  on  a  bluff  rising  high  above  the 
Amazon,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Tapajos  River.  It 
is  the  centre  of  many  cocoa  plantations. 

The  tree  from  which  chocolate  and  cocoa  is  obtained 
is  thirty  feet  tall  and  resembles  a  cherry  tree.  A 
fleshy  fruit  from  four  to  nine  inches  in  length,  and  like 
a  cucumber  in  shape,  grows  from  the  brown  bark  of  the 
trunk   ami    branches.      From   twenty   to   forty   seeds, 


2;u 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 


'  It       ' 


shaped  like  iilnioiids,  },mo\v  within  tlic  fruit.  T  hesc  aro 
the  chocolate  seeds. 

They  are  separated  from  tluf  pulp  and  dried  in  Brazil. 
They  are  then  seuCaljroad  to  KuLfland  and  France  to  ho 
farther  pre])ared  for  th((  nuirket.  A  thin  and  hrittU) 
shell  covers  each  seed.  This,  when  pounded  into  frag- 
ments, makes  cocoa. 

Near  ()l»idos  the  Amazon  widens,  and  appears  even 
more  stately  than  before.  Wonderful  forests  skirt  the 
southern  shore.  The  impulse  of  the  ocean  tide,  though 
not  its  saltness,  is  felt  here.  Finally  the  great  island 
of  Marajo  ap[)ears,  sei»arating  the  Amazon  into  two 
streams,  —  the  one  south  of  the  island  being  known  as 
the  Para  liiver,  and  the  one  noith  still  bearing  the 
name  of  Amazon. 

The  Amazon  iJivcr  at  its  mouth  is  fourteen  miles 
wider  than  tlie  Hudson  River  is  long.  Hefoi'e  the  coast 
of  South  America  can  be  seen,  vessels  far  out  at  sea  aro 
able  to  draw  fresh  water  from  the  ocean.  This  fresh 
water  comes  from  the  Amazon. 

Para,  on  the  Para  River,  is  seventy-five  miles  from 
the  Atlantic.  It  is  the  great  storehouse  for  tlie  riches 
of  the  Amazon  Valley.  All  the  many  vegetable  prod- 
ucts of  the  interior  are  brought  in  small  vessels  down 
the  river,  and  are  placed  in  warehouses,  to  be  shipped  in 
time  to  li^urope  and  the  United  States. 

Para  is  an  excessively  hot  city.  Rlankets  are  unnec- 
essary at  night,  and  overcoats  are  oidy  worn  as  a  pro- 
tection against  the  rain  ;  but  it  rains  here  the  greater 
part  of  the  year.  Scarcely  a  day  i)assses  without  show- 
el's.     They  generally  cotne  in  the  afternoon. 


!!!0;F«W«W«»tR«taB»M«W(i«!lSiai»»W»*^ 


CUR   AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS, 


28') 


t.     'I  hesc  aro 

riod  ill  Mni/.il. 
[  Ki'iiiicc  to  1)1) 
II  iiiid  hrittlo 
tk'il  into  t'liig- 

apiu'iiis  even 
osts  skirt  tlio 
1  tide,  tliough 
!  groat  iHland 
zon  into  two 
ling  known  aa 
1   bearing   the 

■mrteen  miles 
foi'e  the  coast 
out  at  sea  aro 
.     This  fresh 

'e  miles  from 
for  tlie  riches 
3ge  table  prod- 
vessels  down 
be  shipped  in 

(ts  are  nnnec- 
I'orn  as  a  pro- 
V,  the  greater 
iV  it  bout  show- 
n. 


The  streets  of  I'ar.i.  are  narrow,  like  those  of  all  South 
Anieriean  cities.  Within  a  few  years  most  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets  of  the  city  liavi!  been  repaved  with  granite 
blocks.  They  now  eoiiiparc  favorably  with  the  streets 
of  Hoston  and  N(!W  York. 

The  better  ela,ss  of  houses  arc  covered  with  pretty 
blue  and  white  tiles.  'I'he  [(oorer  houses  art'  made  of 
mud,  which  is  often  painted  with  bright  colors. 

Nazareth  Avenue  is  one  of  the  handsomest  streets  in 
Para.  It  is  wide  anil  well  paved,  has  a  line  of  horse 
cai-s,  and  is  bordiired  l)y  orange,  lemon,  banana,  cocoa- 
nut,  and  silk-cotton  trees. 

The  silk-cotton  is  a  particularly  beautiful  tree.  Its 
trunk,  instead  of  tapering,  grows  larger  as  it  ascends. 
Like  the  palm,  it  has  a  great  tuft  of  leaves  at  the  top. 
The  tree  yields  a  superior  kind  of  cotton,  which  is  as 
fine  and  .soft  as  silk,  but  which  cannot  be  woven  into 
clotli  on  account 'of  the  shortness  of  the  fibre. 

Nazareth  Avenue  leads  to  an  open  scjuare,  where  the 
imblic  fountains  are  situated,  and  where  colored  laun- 
dresses and  water  carriers  quarrel  continually  in  loud 
and  threatening  tones. 

The  tropical  forest  surrounds  Para  on  three  sides,  and 
many  of  the  streets  suddenly  end  before  a  dense  tangle 
of  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines.  Para  is,  after  all,  but  a 
clearing  in  the  wilderness.  You  would  .scarcely  think 
so,  however,  if  some  evening  you  should  visit  its  opera 
house,  —  the  f.nest  in  South  America. 

It  is  built  of  brick,  but  has  fine  alcoves,  supported  by 
marble  [)illars,  which  run  around  three  sides  of  the  house. 
These  alcoves  .are  very'  convenient  on  rainy  nights,  while 


i 


"?ii.^,-.s.^V.«fe7J5;^^- 


230 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS    PEOPLE. 


Ili(!  itiM)j)l(!  luc  wiiitiiij,'  I'or  (licir  ('iuriiij,'t's.  Tlu'  tlioatro 
hull  is  liiicly  (li-conUcil,  iiiid  IIumc  iin-,  Itcsidcs,  aiiy  i-ov- 
lidors  and  ii  ballroom  I'or  i)roiueiiadiiig  betvvuun  tho  acts 
of  the  play. 

'Hit'  Suiitli  Americans  en  joy  walkiiu'  and  tall<in<'  at 
tlio  tlit'atio  moir  than  lislcninj,'  to  tiic  play.  Il,  lias, 
tliertifore,  Inu^omo  tho  custom  to  liayo  the  pauses  he- 
twoen  tlie  at^ts  very  lonj,',  so  that  eyeiy  one  of  tho 
uiKhence  may  liaye  time  to  talk,  walk,  or  piirlako  of 
refieslimonts  as  he  desires.  Ilooths  for  the  sale  of  ices, 
candy,  and  sweetmeats  are  near  at  liand,  either  just 
witliont   or  within   the  opera  house. 

One  mij,'ht  thiok  that  with  these  many  recesses  tho 
audienc(!  would  attend  to  tlit-  opttra  when  it  is  ^oiwir  on. 
Hut  they  do  not.  Thi'lr  gaze  is  (hrected  upon  tlu; 
liouse,  and  their  talkinj,'  is  so  constant  and  so  loud  that, 
mu(!h  of  tlu!  time,  the  actors  cannot  he  lie-.ird.  Mut 
the  audience  go  away  content;  they  hiive  seen  and  hcen 
seen. 

Hoth  before  and  after  tlie  play  the  plaza  l)efor(i  tlie 
opera  liou.st;  is  a  brilliant  sight.  The  magnilieent  build- 
ing is  ablaze  with  lights.  There  are  little  stalls  evtuy- 
Avhere  about  the  [)laza.  Hursts  of  musii;  an;  heard, 
and  carriages  roll  to  and  fro.  Richly  dressed  men  and 
women  pass  through  tlie  alcoves,  and  a  crowd  of  the 
[(oorer  classes  of  Para  gaze  upon  and  enjoy  the  spec- 
tacle from  the  plazi>. 

Tho  common  people  can  always  Im;  seen  in  the  market. 
The  market  luuise  in  I'ara  is  built  of  stone,  and  is  only 
partially  roofed  oyer.  'I'he  stalls  nw.  loaded  with  flow-' 
ers,  fruits,  vegetables,  fowls,  aiul  fish. 


a^s 


i,.. 


3tgr'S^*..'^-~-''^^-''J-!- 


arH»T.T»s«E'«!?ss;is(»as>»w.i*¥4i%fi{.i  'flsaaaWi.'iiasdsKwsw-^ 


OUR   AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


'j;i7 


Tilt'  tlioiitn; 
i(K's,  uiiy  foi- 

rt  UOn  tllO  IK.'tH 


111  tiill<iii<^  at 
)liiy.     It.  lias, 

10    paUHl'H    1)1'- 

'  Olio  of  tlio 
)!•  partake  of 
.'■  siile  of  ices, 
I,  cither  just 

i(M'('ss('s  the 
t  is  ^'oiiii^  on. 

I'tl      111K)I1       till! 

so  loud  that, 

IilmkI.      Mot 

I'oii  and  been 

/.a  l)efoi'(!  the 
lilicciil  huild- 
stalls  every- 
(!  an;  heard, 
ised  men  and 
•rowd  of  the 
joy  the  spee- 

1  the  market. 
,  and  is  only 
ill  with  flow- 


Fmlian  women  and  ni'j,'resses  preside  over  the  stalls. 
The  Indian  women  are  leniarkahle  for  their  silence. 
The  nc},'resses  pass  their  tiiiit!  in  lan^hinj,'  and  dial  tin;,' 
willi  one  another.  I'hey  are  ciioniionsly  tall  and  laij^c. 
Tlioy  wear  tnrhans  ^dowin^'  with  eveiy  color  of  tlu; 
rainliow,  and  ^^old  chains  and  rint^s  ;  and  the  waists  of 
tlieir  white  cotton  dresses  are  elahoratcly  dccorati'tl  with 
cotton  laco.  'I'licir  hlack  eyes  twinkle  and  their  glo.ssy 
cheeks  dimitle  coiitiiuially. 

Th(!y  are  only  soher  when  iv  jiriest  appears  in  si^dit. 
In  his  dark  rolx^s  he  i.>  a  strong'  contrast  to  tlii!  hrd- 
liantly  dressed  .\nnt  Dinahs  and  Chloes,  as  he  passes 
throu<j[li  the  market,  s|  >  akinj.j  kind  words,  Ixith  to 
them  and  to  the  silent  Indians. 

The  ('oast  from  Para  to  Pernamlmco  is  very  low, 
sandy,  and  monotonous.  I'ernanihnco  is  the  third  com- 
mercial city  of  Hra/.il.  It  is  called  the  "City  of  the 
lleef,"  because  live  liundred  feet  from  the  shore,  extend- 
ing' for  several  miles  north  and  south  from  I'ernamlmco, 
is  a  fj;reat  reef. 

This  reef  is  nearly  covered  at  lii^di  tide.  A  solid  sea 
wall,  five  feet  lii<,di  and  ten  feet  hroad,  has  been  built 
ujitm  it.  Against  this  liie  breakers  rage  without  dis- 
turbing the  (juict  harb,)r  Avithin. 

The  vessels  in  the  harbor  are  drawn  up  in  two  lines, 
one  by  the  reef  and  the  other  opposite,  near  the  water 
front  of  the  city,  which  is  faced  Avith  fine  cut  stone. 
Ships  too  large  to  enter  the  harbor  anchor  outside  the 
reef. 

Pernf.'iubu(!o  is  tlie  great  sugar  market  of  Brazil.  It 
docs  not  take  long  for  the  traveler  to  discover  that  fact. 


i 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 


The  vessels  in  the  harlx)!'  are  being  laden  witli  sngar; 
Ihe  2)()itcrs  in  the  Avavehousos  are  tossing  bags  of  sugar 
about;  the  oxe-  in  the  streets  are  drawing  sugar;  the 
mules  and  donkeys  eoniing  fron.  the  interior  plantations 
to  the  eity  have  panniers  of  sugar  stra[)ped  u[)on  their 
backs.  The  city  streets  smell  of  sugar,  ami  the  pave- 
ments are  slippery  with  molasses. 

Pernambuco  would  be  a  pi'rfect  paradise  to  those 
little  boys  and  girls  who  wish  that  the  world  was  made 
of  sugar,  so  that  ihey  might  nibble  the  npjier  crust. 
They  would  be  hai)])y  indeed  in   this  sugar  city. 

South  of  I'ernauibuco  the  coast  becomes  bold  and 
rock}'.  Mountains  begin  to  rise  u[)on  the  [ilateau  and 
to  draw  their  faint  blue  lines  along  the  far  horizon. 

Lying  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  deep  sheltered  Bay 
of  All  Saints  we  iind  the  city  of  Bahia.  If  it  were  not 
that  the  bay  forms  a  jjcrfect  harb  ir,  we  slioidd  find  no 
city  liere.  Bluffs  two  hundred  feet  high  skirt  the  bay, 
sometimes  approaching  to  within  two  hundred  feet  of 
the  sliore,  .and  then  retreating  ten  hundred  feet  from  it. 
The  resulting  beach  is  very  irregidar. 

Bahia,  like  the  distant  eity  of  Quebec,  consists  of  an 
upper  town  on  the  bluffs  and  a  lower  town  on  the  shoi'e. 
The  business  (juarter  of  the  city  is,  of  course,  the  lower 
town.  One  long  street  runs  north  and  south  beside  the 
wharves,  .and  between  it  and  the  bluff  are  as  many  more 
streets  as  can  be  crowded  into  the  scanty  space. 

Some  of  the  streets  are  wide  and  well  lighted ;  others 
are  only  tv,o  feet  Avider  than  the  street  cars  which  pass 
through  them.  The  people  who  walk  in  these  streets 
have  to  step  into  doorways  to  allow  the  ear  to  pass. 


."..sjfiRX-i-iy  :-*iS!;fes  j'ssspsSiSftiSiM^SBitfiSiioiris  ■ 


■» 


m  witli  sugar; 
bags  of  sugar 
ug  sugar ;  the 
ior  ])laiitatious 
cd  U[)()ii  their 
and  the  >)ave- 

idiso  to  tliose 
t)rhl  was  made 
!  u[)[)c'r  crust, 
n^ar  city. 
nu!s  bohl  and 
10  [ihiLcau  and 
r  horizon, 
sladterc'd  Bay 

If  it  were  not 
dioidd  find  no 

skirt  tlie  bay, 
nidred  feet  of 
d  feet  fronv  it. 

consists  of  an 
1  on  the  shore, 
irse,  tlie  h)wer 
uth  beside  the 

as  many  more 
s})ace. 

ghted ;  others 
irs  which  pass 

these  streets 
ir  to  pass. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


239 


The  warehouses  are  many  stories  liigli ;  the  walls  are 
painted  wliite  and  yellow,  and  the  roofs  red.  There  are 
hut  few  line  public  l)uildings  in  Jiahia,  so  that  the  view 
of  the  city  from  the  harboi',  though  cheerful,  is  some- 
what monotonous. 

Tlu  merchants  arc  chielly  interested  in  the  exporta- 
tion oi  coffee,  tohacjo,  sugar,  and  diamonds.    They  dress 


LANDING    STEPS    AT    BAHIA. 


in  white,  and  cany  umijrellas  to  protect  themselves  from 
the  scorching  rays  o!'  the  sun. 

The  upper  town,  which  contains  most  of  the  resi- 
dences, is  I'eached  by  several  steep  streets  ;  by  one  wide, 
fine  street  with  a  gentle  ascent  for  carriages ;  and  by  a 
steam  elevator.  The  old-fashioned  sedan  chair  is  used 
by  ladies  in  Bahia.  A  lady  takes  her  seat  in  the  chair 
and  the  curtain  is  dropped ;  then  the  servants  seize  the 
poles,  or  handles,  of  the  chair,  and  in  a  very  short  time 


f/^mmsiUM^/mmi'^nu 


240 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


tliey  liiivo  clinihetl  the  steep  street  iiiul  liave  gained  the 
ui)i)er  town. 

This  section  of  Hahia  contains  the  i)uhlic  luiihhngs. 
Tiie  chniches  of  liahia  are  snperior  to  many  of  the 
c'hurt'lies  in  the  other  cities  of  Brazil.  They  have 
heaulifully  frescoed  ceilings,  dclic-ate  wood  carving, 
and  inarhle  floors.  There  is  one  chnrch  huilt  of  stone 
hronght  from  the  United  States,  as  hallast,  in  ships  that 
came  to  he  freighted  with  Hrazilian  products. 

On  the  edge  of  the  .iliiffs  is  a  large,  neglected  puhlic 
garden.  The  avenues  of  palms  and  mango  trees  are 
exceedingly  fine.  Ui-ns  and  statues  are  scattered  ahout, 
and  there  is  a  hroad  promenade  on  the  edge  of  the 
hluff,  protected  hy  a  marhle  railing.  The  sunset  view 
of  the  harhor  is  very  heautiful ;  and,  in  the  early  even- 
ing, many  peoi)le  can  be  seen  walking  thiough  this  ave- 
nue, or  resting  on  seats  c(  ered  with  tiles  an"d  decorated 
with  si. oils,  while  the  rosy,  western  light  falls  full  upon 
their  dark,  sallow  faces. 

Bahia  is  the  commercial  city  of  the  second  region  of 
Brazil,  which  is  tlie  region  of  the  gold  and  diamond 
I. lines.  Therefore  it  is  only  natural  that  the  finest  Bra- 
zilian diamond,  the  "  Star  of  the  South,"  should  have 
been  exjiorted  from  Bahia. 

The  city  also  exports  a  superior  kind  of  tobacco, 
which  is  (^uite  as  good  as  the  tobacco  of  Havana  in 
Cuba.  On  that  account,  cigars  made  from  it  are  called 
Havana  cigars. 

Travelers  always  purchase  feather  flowers  in  Bahia. 
They  are  made  by  nuns  in  the  convent,  and  are  very 
beautiful.     The  brilliant  or  delicate  tints  of  every  flower 


yi^ 


5)»«'.««ISr'ifK^iWi^i  ■     It*'*  jkX;  ix'Hl^Hl'if'^' 


lave  gained  the 

iblic  luiildings. 
)  many  of  the 
They  have 
wood  carving, 
built  of  stone 
;t,  in  ships  tiiat 
lets. 

iglected  public 
lingo  trees  are 
cattered  about, 
le  edge  of  the 
lie  sunset  view 
the  early  even- 
ough  this  ave- 
I  an"d  decorated 
falls  full  upon 

cond  region  of 
[  and  diumond 
the  finest  Bra- 
should  have 

id   of   tobacco, 

of  Havana  in 

nil  it  are  called 

ivers  in  Rahia. 
;,  and  are  very 
of  every  flower 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


241 


that  grows  in  Brazil  can  be  niatcli..'d  exactly  in  birds' 
feathers.  With  real  flowei-s  before  them  as  copies,  the 
nuns  make  lovely  hyacinths,  orange  blossoms,  violets, 
and  roses,  both  full-blown  and  in  the  bud.  It  is  only 
by  smelling,  that  the  real  flower  can  be  distinguished 
from  the  artificial. 

Rio  Janeiro  is  more  Ijeautifully  situated  llian  any  other 
South  American  city.  It  is  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Bay  of  Rio  Janeiro,  which  is  large  enougii  to  contain  all 
the  sliii)s  in  the  world,  and  has  been  favorably  compared 
with  the  most  b3autiful  bay  in  Europe,  the  Bay  of  Naples. 


BAY   OF    RIO   JANEIRO. 


The  entrance  to  Rio  Janeiro  harbor  is  very  narrow. 
It  is  between  two  rocky  bluffs,  the  western  one  being 
known  as  Sugra*  Loaf  on  account  of  its  conical  shape. 
The  waters  of  the  bay  are  always  as  calm  as  an  inland 
lake.  With  the  exception  of  the  narrow  entrance,  the 
harbor  is  surrounded  by  mountiiins. 


■■^mmm:' 


sUs.rf^Sf^HSi. 


242 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


Tlie  Organ  Mnuntaiiis  lie  to  the  north,  tl;e  peaks  of 
Coicovado  and  'i'ijuca  to  the  west,  and  Sugar  Loaf  to  the 
south.  The  mountains  are  lofty,  while  their  sides  are 
very  abrupt  and  steep.  Their  sharp  lines  and  frowning 
heights  form  a  strong  contrast  to  the  narrow  green  plain 
lying  between  them  and  the  bay. 

Tlie  view  of  the  bay  and  the  city,  from  a  vessel 
ancliored  in  the  harbor,  is  delightful.  Many  green 
islands  dot  the  clear  watei'.  Some  of  them  are  large, 
and  contain  villages  and  faims ;  others  are  tiny,  and 
have  only  the  gray  roof  of  a  chapel  rising  from  the 
midst  of  a  small  grove  of  trees. 

The  city  of  Kio  Janeiro,  like  a  long  and  narrow 
crescent,  lies  along  the  western  shore.  It  is  but  half  a 
mile  wide,  and  is  prevented  by  the  mountains  from 
growing  any  more  in  a  westerly  direction.  It  is  nine 
or  ten  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  can  still  grow  in 
those  directions. 

From  the  harbor,  Rio  Janeiro  appears,  in  the  morning 
sunshine,  like  a  city  of  alabaster.  With  its  brilliant 
white  walls,  and  its  dreamily  nodding  palms  mirrored  in 
the  level  waters  of  the  bay,  it  is  like  a  city  in  the  Ara- 
bian Nights.  But  all  admiration  vanishes  on  entering 
the  city  it'elf.     Rio  Janeiro  is  terribly  dirty. 

A  few  of  the  streets  are  so  narrow  that  no  ray  of  sun- 
light entei-s  them.  They  are  hot  and  stifling.  Foul 
odors  and  sickening  gases  arise  from  the  open  gutters 
which  run  through  the  middle  of  the  streets.  The 
slender  trunk  of  a  beautiful  palm  often  stretches  upward 
from  a  heap  of  decaying  vegetables,  seeming  to  bear  its 
great  green  tuft  of  leaves  up  into  a  purer  region  than 


■■--'««*»»«SjSjgy5H^ 


"Ki-i^-^'.if'-- '  »*vit,'»:u'>%vsii»aff>«a&&g«**§fi#*Si«£s;~  - 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS, 


248 


th,  tl;e  penks  of 
igar  Loaf  to  the 
their  sides  are 
js  and  frowning 
row  green  plain 

from  a  vessel 

Many  green 

them  are  large, 

s  are  tiny,  and 

ising  from  the 

ng  and  narrow 
It  is  but  half  a 
nountains  from 
on.  It  is  nine 
ill  still  grow  in 

in  the  morning 
ith  its  brilliant 
1ms  mirrored  in 
city  in  the  Ara- 
les  on  entering 
irty. 

t  no  ray  of  sun- 
stifling.  Foul 
le  open  gutters 
streets.  The 
tretches  upward 
ning  to  bear  its 
irer  region  than 


I 


the  filthy  streets  below.  Sciualid  beggara,  and  gaunt, 
wolflike  dogs,  are  seen  at  the  street  corners. 

Kio  Janeiro  is  a  seiies  of  disappointments.  Its  sur- 
roundings are  perfect ;  but  the  city  itself  is  unhealthy, 
situated  as  it  is  in  the  tropics,  with  but  little  attention 
paid  to  the  most  ordinary  rules  for  city  cleanliness. 

Yellow  fever  and  smallpox  hold  possession  for  one- 
half  the  year,  and  all  the  rich  jieople  liave  their  sunnner 
homes  among  the  mountains.  Their  houses  which,  if 
erected  in  the  city,  would  form  iine  streets,  are  all  in 
Petropolis  or  other  mountain  resorts. 

The  public  buildings  are  of  an  inferior  architecture, 
and  are  certixinly  in  need  of  repair.  But  there  is  one 
place  which  never  disa;)point,s  the  traveler.  Hcturn  to 
it  as  often  iis  he  may,  it  seems  always  as  graii<l  and 
marvelous  as  at  iirst.  This  is  the  Botanical  Gardens 
of  Rio  Janeiro. 

They  are  some  little  distance  from  the  city,  at  the 
foot  of  the  peak  of  Corcovado,  and  are  reached  by  the 
horse  cars. 

The  glory  of  the  Botanical  Gardens  is  the  avenue  of 
palms.  This  extends  for  half  a  mile  in  a  straight  line 
from  the  entrance  gate.  Halfway  down,  the  main  ave- 
nue is  crossed  by  another  at  right  angles  to  it.  Where 
the  two  avenues  intersect,  stands  a  fountain. 

The  trees  are  eighty  feet  high  and  three  feet  in  diam- 
eter. There  are  aboxit  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  them  in 
the  main  avenue,  and  they  stand  thirty  feet  apart.  As 
you  walk  down  the  gravel  path,  the  trees  before  you 
seem  to  blend  with  one  another,  so  that  you  ap2)ear  to 
be  inclosed  in  a  gray-walled  corridor,  roofed  with  green. 


f 


•■■»•«.  .vji?!  .j»3i..sr 


,--.  ,,   ^r« 


244 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE, 


There  are  other  avenues  shaded  by  trees  in  the  gar- 
dens. In  one  phice  the  paths  are  bordered  for  some  dis- 
tance by  the  same  kind  of  trees  ;  in  another  by  different 
kinds  ;  and  still  in  another,  by  different  varieties  of  the 
same  species.  The  arrangement  is  vaiied  in  a  thousand 
interesting  and  instructive  ways. 

Here  is  a  large  thicket  representing  a  bit  of  tropical 
forest.  It  contains  lofty  trees,  strangled  in  the  wild 
growth  of  smalli'r  trees,  shrubs,  and  parasitic;  climbers 
and  creepers.  Ilunnning  birds  j)oise  their  dainty  little 
bodies  above  gay  ilowers;  and  bugs,  bright  as  gems,  are 
seen  upon  the  glossy  leaves.  Everything  is  an  exact 
eoi)y  of  the  primeval  forests  of  this  region. 

Besides  the  plants  of  South  America,  tropical  plants 
from  all  over  the  world  are  growing  here.  Oidy  the 
liotanical  (iarden  in  Java  has  a  collection  larger  than 
this  of  Rio  Janeiro. 

No  one  who  visits  the  capitiil  of  Brazil  must  fail  to 
ascend  Corcovado.  This  mountain  peak  lies  to  the 
southwest  of  Rio  Janeiro,  and  is  over  two  thousand 
feet  high.  It  is  cone-shaiied,  and  its  walls  are  very 
steep,  exce])t  on  the  side  where  the  lailway  has  been 
built. 

The  railroad  is  constructed  like  those  upon  Mount 
Washington  and  the  Swiss  mountains.  The  single  car, 
wliich  the  engine  pushes  before  it,  is  open,  so  that  an 
ever-widening  view  is  obtained  during  the  hour's  ride. 

The  track  passes  directly  through  a  forest;  and  when 
the  traveler's  eyes  are  weary  with  studying  the  ocean 
and  the  plain  below,  he  can  feast  them  upon  the  graceful 
ferns  and  bright  flowers  which  almost  brush  the  track. 


u 


li 


•>*--v.t»«Bi, 


'*<»>w«S4tt^wi»,»j4fga5(!i««*w!»9aNiW^^ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


245 


ees  in  the  gar- 
od  for  some  dis- 
her  by  different 
varieties  of  the 
d  in  a  thousand 

bit  of  tropical 
led  in  the  wikl 
rasitic!  cliinbcrs 
leir  dainty  little 
:fht  as  gems,  are 
ing  is  an  exact 
»n. 

tropical  plants 
icre.  Only  the 
ion  larger  than 

fAl  must  fail  to 
eak  lies  to  the 
r  two  thousand 
walls  are  very 
dlway  has  been 

se  upon  Mount 
The  single  car, 
pen, so  that  an 
lie  hour's  ride, 
•rest;  and  when 
lying  the  ocean 
pon  the  graceful 
)rush  the  track. 


Half  way  u[)  there  is  a  iiiio  hotel,  wliere  many  mer- 
chants. Hying  from  the  pestilent  city,  spend  their 
niglits. 

I'eyond  the  hotel  tlie  ride  becomes  more  dangerous, 
and,  in  i»l;iees,  it  is  worse  than  any  jKirt  of  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Washington.  If  a  rail  sliould  yield,  a  luiil  give 
way,  or  a  stone  be  upon  the  tiaek,  ear  and  [teople  would 
be  dashed  to  atoms  at  the  foot  of  the  terril)le  cliffs. 

At  length  the  engine  pauses.  The  remaining  few 
hundred  feet  must  be  climbed  by  tlie  passengia-  himself. 
Hastening  up  the  rocky  stei)s,  he  finds  liimsclf  on  a 
walled  platfoiin,  covered  with  an  iron  roof  as  a  protec- 
tion against  wind  or  rain. 

Spread  out  before  him  is  tlie  view,  —  one  of  the  most 
wonderful  that  the  earth  affords.  On  a  clear  day,  fifty 
square  miles  of  ocean,  bay,  mountains,  and  jjlains  are 
visible ;  and  the  great  city,  which,  from  a  distance,  aji- 
peai's  always  so  beautiful,  lies  at  liis  feet. 

The  compass  and  tlie  variety  of  the  sight  5ire  remark- 
able. It  is  no  wonder  that  visitoi-s  to  Rio  Janeiro  climb 
tlie  Corcovado  again  and  again  to  learn  the  changes  in 
cloud  and  in  sunshine  of  this  world-renowned  view,  and 
to  impress  more  strongly  upon  their  minds  its  various 
featui-es. 

Negro  water  carriers,  fish  mongers,  and  dealers  in 
poultry  are  seen  upon  tlie  o.Hy  streets  early  in  the  day. 
The  fish  dealers  announce  their  coming  by  sounding 
wooden  clappers.  The  poultry  is  carried  about  in  cov- 
ered straw  biuskets ;  and  it  is  a  funny  siglit  to  see  a  sober 
black  face  shaded  by  such  a  basket,  through  whose  crev- 
ices chickens  pop  their  heads.    The  knowing  birds  cluck 


'«!a»(t:3~" " 


-™    I     IT-' 


240 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


anxiously,  and  gaze  aruiuul  as  if  suekiiig  to  discover 
what  is  to  bct'ome  of  tlieiu. 

The  In'of  and  imittou  is  iiniiorted  from  liuenos  Ayres, 
and  what  do  yousuppose  is  in^jorted  from  tlie  United 
States?  Not  J<ost(;ii  baked  beans,  but  salt  eodiish. 
They  aciually  prefer  this  dry  salt  fish  to  fresh  fish 
caught  in  their  own  bay.  A  New  Englander  would 
hardly  recognize  liis  eodiish  by  taste,  for  it  is  pio^  ired, 
like  many  of  the  Brazilian  dishes,  with  a  great  quantity 
of  garlic  iind  oil. 

Let  us  SCI?  how  a  Brazilian  living  in  the  city  of  Rio 
Janeiro  f-^rty  yeais  ago,  spent  his  day.  lie  rose  witli 
the  sun,  ate  a  light  re[)ast  of  an  egg,  a  roll,  and  a  cup  of 
coffee,  and  then  went  to  his  ullice  in  order  to  accomplish 
iis  much  business  as  possible  before  the  excessive  heat 
of  the  middle  of  the  day. 

At  twelve  o'clock  he  opened  his  white  snn  und)i'ella, 
and  turned  his  dark  face  homeward.  On  his  arrival, 
breakfast  was  served.  That  was  like  a  dinner,  except 
that  neither  fowl  nor  vegetables  ai)peared.  It  consisted 
of  soup,  steak  or  chops,  omelette  or  salad,  and  cheese, 
sweetmeats,  and  coffee. 

There  is  a  Brazilian  proverb  that  coffee,  to  be  good, 
should  be  "  black  as  night,  and  strong  as  death."  Most 
of  the  coffee  druidf  in  Brazil  is  of  this  kind.  As  coffee 
appears  at  all  the  meals,  ard  is  freely  indulged  in 
bjtwecn  nvBals,  its  effect  upon  tlie  people  is  marked. 
Most  of  th'j  men  in  Rio  Juieiro  can  scarcely  keep  still. 
The  muscles  of  their  faces  and  bodies  aro  always  twitch- 
ing, because  of  this  indulgence  in  strong  coffee.  " 

The  business  man  whose  day  we  are  following  rested 


i> 


ww«S6.*'5s««i«A«.«fi^fe  m€mji'Mm^s^>' 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


247 


iig  to  discover 


l)Uenos  Ayres, 
om  tlio  United 
t  Hiilt  codfish. 
1  to  fresh  fish 
trlauder  would 
•  it  is  pio^  ired, 
great  (quantity 

the  city  of  Rio 
lie  rose  witli 
11,  and  a  cup  of 
!•  to  accomplish 
excessive  heat 

3  snn  und)i-ella, 
^n  his  arrival, 
dinner,  except 
I.  It  consisted 
id,  and  cheese, 

'ee,  to  he  good, 
deatli."  Most 
nd.  As  coffee 
y  indulged  in 
pie  is  marked. 
oel;  keep  still, 
always  tw itch- 
coffee.  ' 
jl  lowing  rested 


until  four  o'clock,  and  then  he  returned  to  his  oflice.  He 
remained  there  till  eight,  when  dinner  called  him  home. 
In  the  evening  he  either  visited  the  theatre  or  proceeded 
to  the  gamhling  table. 

The  wife  of  this  merchant  passed  her  day  very  qui- 
etly. At  six  in  the  morning  she  attended  mass,  and  at 
seven  returned  to  her  home,  where  she  remained  for  the 
rest  of  the  day.  No  Brazilian  lady  ever  api)earcd  on  the 
street  in -the  daytime  after  lialf-past  seven.  Within 
doors  she  embroidered,  dozed  in  lier  hanunock,  or  peered 
through  the  blinds  at  the  passers-by. 

Sometimes  she  did  a  little  shopping.  She  sent  a  ser- 
vant to  the  stores  for  samples ;  and,  after  she  had  ex- 
amined them  and  chosen  what  she  desired,  the  servant 
returned  the  samples,  and  paid  for  what  had  been 
selected. 

The  evening  w.as  the  happiest  time  of  day  for  the 
pool',  imprisoned  lady.  She  then  made  a  grand  toilet, 
and,  accompanied  by  her  husband,  went  to  the  theatre 
or  to  an  ice  cream  saloon. 

Now  all  this  is  changed.  The  Brazilian  merchants 
spend  their  days  precisely  as  do  the  business  men  of 
New  York  and  Boston.  The  women  too  are  no  longer 
close  prisoners  in  their  houses,  but  may  be  seen  upon 
the  streets  in  the  daytime  just  as  in  our  own  country. 

On  leaving  the  city  of  Rio  Janeiro,  let  us  take  a  pass- 
ing glance  at  the  town  of  Petropolis.  It  is  an  hour's 
journey  from  the  capital.  The  first  half  of  the  trip  is 
upon  a  steamer,  which  crosses  the  beautiful  bay  to  the 
northern  side.  There  a  very  steep  railroad  takes  the 
traveler  right  into  the  heart  of  the  Organ  Mountains. 


■*'l^¥->%,r.5*¥?^^**  :^^> 


.'  ,.•  1^ 


24fi 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


I'ctropolis  is  very  niiicli  like  a  Swis.s  villa^'c.  It  is 
situated  in  a  lofty  valley,  siinoumled  l)y  nioiiiitaiiis. 
'I'liere  are  s'^vcral  swift  rivers  wliicli  nisli  tliioii^'h  its 
very  striiets  and  are  siianiicd  at  frciiuent  iiilcrvals  by 
wooden  lnidges.  The  summer  houses  and  hotels  are 
all  very  hri^ditly  and  },'ayly  painted.  They  have  orna- 
mental woodwork  and  little  l)aleonies  and  pia/zas.  The 
palace  and  heautiful  frroinids  of  the  late  empentr,  Doni 
INfdro,  can  be  seen  here. 

The  thiiti  reji[ion  of  lira/il,  the  distriet  lying  between 
the  twentieth  and  thirtieth  parallels,  iiieludes  the  val- 
leys of  the  Parana  and  Paraguay  Rivers.  It  is  well 
adapted  to  grazing.  Large  numbers  of  (tattle  and  hoi'ses 
are  imported  from  the  Argentine  Iiei»ul)lie,  and  beef 
and  mutton,  hides  and  horn.s,  will  be  among  the  future 
riehes  of  Brazil. 

Now,  how  does  Brazil  compare  with  our  own  country? 
Will  it  ever  rival  the  United  States  in  importance?  It 
is  quite  its  equal  now,  so  far  as  natural  wealth  is  con- 
cerned ;  but  it  is,  and  probably  ever  will  be,  inferior  to 
the  Uinted  States,  so  far  as  the  people  are  concerned. 

The  United  States  is  a  nation  of  workers.  The  Bra- 
zilians, on  account  of  their  climate,  are  obliged  to  rest 
during  a  good  part  of  the  day,  and,  even  in  their  working 
hours,  they  often  toil  but  languidly.  Foreigner  who 
come  to  this  country  soon  lose  their  energy,  and  drop 
into  the  listless  habits  of  the  natives. 

One-half  of  lirazil  is  unsettled.  Mo.st  of  the  region 
about  the  Amazon  is  an  unbroken  wilderness. 

The  hcalthfulness  of  the  cities  will  be  improved  in 
time,  but  the  climate  of  the  country  cannot  be  altered. 


"^^'^*9KM!f^f^^^''- 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


240 


villa^'o.  It  is 
])y  luomitaiiis, 
sli  throii^'h  its 
it  iiiti'i'Viils  by 
iiiid  iiotcls  ai'u 
u-y  liiivi!  oriia- 
l  piazzas.  Tiio 
eiupuror,  Dom 

lying  iKitweeu 
rludes  the  val- 
s.  It  is  well 
ittlf  and  hoi'sus 
il)li(;,  and  beef 
ong  the  future 

•  own  country  ? 
iportance  ?  It 
wealth  is  con- 
be,  inferior  to 
e  concerned, 
ers.  The  Bra- 
obliged  to  rest 
1  their  working 
i'oreignei-s  who 
ei'gy,  and  drop 

t  of  the  region 

ness. 

)e  improved  in 

lot  be  altered. 


And  so,  as  the  greatest  possililt!  tflHciency  in  ii  tropical 
(!ountry  can  never  rival  the  greatest  possible  cniciency 
in  a  t('nip(frate  country,  I  will  venture  to  say  tliat  the 
Kepul)lif  of  Hrazil  can  never  excel  the  Rci)ublic,  of  tlie 
Stars  and  Strijjes. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

IN   THK    VALLIiV    OK    TIIK    LA   J'LATA. 

Next  to  the  Amazon,  the  largest  I'ivcr  in  South  Amer- 
ica is  the  Kio  de  la  I'lata.  The  name  La  IMata  is  only 
given  to  a  very  few  miles  of  tlie  river, —  only  to  its 
very  broad  mouth,  in  fact.  The  Parana  Hiver  unites 
with  the  Uruguay  River  to  form  the  La  IMata  almost 
within  sight  of  the  sea. 

The  Parana  is  a  line,  long  river,  rising  in  the  moun- 
tains near  Rio  Janeiro.  Its  principal  tributary  is  the 
Paraguay  River,  which  stretches  its  long  arms  nearly 
to  the  Madeira  River,  as  if  the  Amazon  and  the  La 
Plata  wished  to  gi-ecit  each  other. 

The  state  of  Paraguay  is  situated  between  the  Parana 
and  Paraguay  Rivers ;  while  to  the  south,  between  the 
LTruguay  River  and  the  ocean,  lies  its  sister  state,  Uru- 
guay. The  third  country  included  in  the  valley  of  the 
La  Plata  is  the  Ai'gentine  Republic. 

The  La  Plata  River  has  the  widest  mouth  of  any 
river  in  the  world.  Sailing  across  it  is  like  sailing  on 
a  vast  sea,  so  far  as  the  distance  of  the  shores  is  con- 


=«»i*j^r'"i!ai;.v 


250 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS   PEOPLE. 


rcriu'd;  l»ii*.  tlir  t'siiuuv  of  the  l.;i  I'liilii  is  not  flccp  likti 
tliu  si'ii.  It  liiis  niiiiiy  sliiillow  iilaccs,  ainl  stciiiiKMs  itiid 
Hiiiliiij,'  vcsHi'ls  liavo  to  iiiako  tlu'ir  \vii>  with  t\w  utmost 
carc!. 

Tlu'  iiavi^'atioii  of  the  La  IMata,  liko  that  of  tlio 
Amazon,  is  fruo  to  all  the  woild.  Steamers  from  every 
mition  am  seen  npon  its  waters.  In  the  harlior  of 
Rosario,  two  hundred  miles  from  tlw^  month  of  the 
Lii  IMata,  ships  beaiinj,'  the  ilags  of  Miif^dand,  Spain, 
Fnuieo,  and  (utrmany  arc;  hulen  with  hiiles,  horns,  and 
other  products  of  the  Ar^^ffutine  Hepiddie. 

Tiiero  aro  two  lines  of  steandxtats  on  the  La  IMata, 
wlii(di  make  a  poor  little  attempt  at  luxuriance.  The 
cahins  have  [)late  mirrors,  brass  an<l  <,nlt  work,  and  plush 
furnitiu'e.  The  hoard  furnished  to  passeiiLfcrs  is  excel- 
lent, for  the  lines  of  steamers  ar((  rivids,  and  each  tries 
to  excel  the  other  in  speed  and  in  the  exvellence  of 
its  fare. 

After  loavinp;  Rosario,  the  remainder  of  the  trip  up 
the  Parana  and  I'arapfuay  Rivers  to  Asuncion,  tlie  capi- 
tal of  I'arajfuay,  is  not  particularly  interesting.  Occa- 
sionally a  hand  of  (Miaco  Indians  come  ridinjf  alontf 
the  western  shore,  and  then  there  is  excitement  for  a 
while. 

All  of  these  Indians,  —  men,  women,  and  children, — 
are  superb  riders.  They  manatje  their  horses  with  thi; 
(jueerest  kind  of  a  britlle,  which  contim-s  only  the  lower 
jaw.  Once  they  weie  very  hostile  to  the  whites  and 
fought  many  battles  with  them,  but  now  they  are  (juite 
friendly.  ■ 

Those  that  the  traveler  sees  to-day  ride  their  horses 


^»". 


..■i^>-^/JMiii^iu<<^*!»-mfiVM(.nwi-!Vfi}i^^i^^ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


261 


not  <li'('|i  like 
I  stt'iiiiM'rs  iiiid 
itii  tlic  utmost 

1  llmt  of  till! 
'IS  from  cvt'i'v 
lIio  liui'hor  of 
luoutii  of  tlic 
i<r|iiii(l,  Spain, 
«'s,  lioriis,  1111(1 

tlio  La  Plata, 
iiriaiicc.  Tlic 
Di'k,  anil  plush 
nifi'i's  is  cxcol- 
and  rach  tries 
extcUuiico   of 

»f  llio  (rip  up 
(•ion.  tlii3  capi- 
istiiig.  Occa- 
ridiiijif  aloiifj 
itemeut  for  a 

id  children,  — 
irsus  with  the; 
lily  tliii  lower 
le  whites  and 
they  are  (juite 

13  their  horses 


down  lo  the  river's  ed^re,  hohl  out  their  iiaiiils  eiitreat- 
iiij;lv,  and  \n'^  the  steamer  to  stop  that  they  may  trade 
their  jjoods  to  the  passeii^'ers.  itaitdy,  however,  does 
the  steamer  pause  for  thciii. 

The  (haco  imliaii  catches  lish  in  a  very  curious  way. 
He  shoots  thiiii  with  how  and  arrow.  Standing,'  in 
water  nearly  up  to  his  waist,  tht;  Indian  watches  hirt 
chance,  and,  as  the  lish  j,'oes  swirumiiij,'  serenely  alonj,', 
ho  takes  careful  aim,  and  whiz/,  th(^  arrow  },'oes,  straight 
to  its  mark  down  through  (iveii  four  fct't  of  water. 

Asuncion  is  a  city  that  has  sulVered  much  through 
war.  Walking  about  the  streets,  you  notice  ruins 
everywhere.  Here  are  falh^n  houses,  charred,  smoky, 
wimlovvlcss  huildings,  and  gaps  in  the  streets  where 
buildings  used  to  stautl. 

Presently  you  tunm;  to  a  marble  palaiie  (iovering  sev- 
eral acres  by  the  side  of  the  river,  and  showing,  in  the  bits 
of  carving  and  decoration  which  are  numarred,  what  it.s 
former  beauty  and  magniticeiun^  must  have  been.  Now, 
with  its  yellowed  marble  and  broken  windows,  it  looks 
like  a  hideous  skull. 

You  ask  a  Paraguayan  loitering  near  by,  what  build- 
ing this  is;  and,  taking  his  cigarc^tte  from  his  mouth, 
he  tells  you  it  is  Lopez's  palace.  Hy  (piestioning  him 
further,  you  learn  that  Lo[)ez  was  the  tyrant  of  Para- 
guay. He  forbade  any  one  to  leav<}  the  country,  lest 
the  traveler  should  discover  how  oppressed  were  his 
fellow  ecmntrymen,  and  return  to  raise  an  insurrection. 

At  length  he  plunged  Paraguay  into  war  with  lira- 
zil,  the  Argentiii  Repiddic,  and  Uruguay.  For  yeara 
the  plucky  little  nation  fought  on,  until  it  had  pledged 


h 


■V 
I, 


-•JWa' 


u't-.M/.i^-f""  ^/. 


252 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


-  >^   I.' 


its  last  cent  and  given  its  last  chop  of  hlooil  in  the 
cause  of  Lopez.  The  peojjle  did  lut  love  Lopez,  hut 
it  seemed  to  them  to  he  their  dwiy  to  defend  J'araguay 
against  its  enemies. 

After  six  years  Lojjcz  was  killed  and  the  war  closed. 
Nearly  all  the  population  liad  heen  destroyed  hy  war 
and  famine.  The  sohliers  that  were  left  had  scarcely 
any  clothing,  and  shoes  had  been  an  exceptional  luxury 
for  years. 

This  palace  had  been  built  just  before  the  war,  with 
money  wrung  from  the  raraguayans.  The  interior 
decoi'ations  were  gorgeous.  J.,opez's  c:hamber  was  lumg 
with  priceless  lace,  hue  as  a  cobweb,  over  red  satin. 
The  women  of  Paraguay  are  celebrated  hir  this  particu- 
lar, delicate  lace,  and  two  hundred  womoTi  were  kept 
busy  for  several  years  in  making  what  I.opez  demanded 
for  a  single  room.  This  j)alaco  and  most  of  the  build- 
ings in  A  uncion  were  either  destroyed  or  mutilated  in 
the  war. 

After  the  war,  the  able  men  whom  Lopez  had  ban- 
ished returi^ed  to  their  country,  and,  by  making  laws 
favorable  to  settlers,  induced  many  people  from  abroad 
to  settle  in  Paraguay. 

Tlie  counti'y  is  rich  in  forests  and  pasture  lands.  In 
its  forests  are  found  woods  which  are  as  rare  and  beau- 
tiful as  those  of  distant  Cluna  and  Japan.  There  is 
also  timber  so  heavy  that  it  sinks  in  water.  Roth  kinds 
of  these  rare  woods  will  be  of  use  to  the  world  some  day, 
wlien  sawmills  are  clattering  on  the  remote  streams  of 
Paraguay.  Rut  now  the  woodland  silence  is  unbroken, 
except  for  the  occasional  step  of  a  curious  traveler. 


n£srKi«»saaaMs»iS5Eai^fty«A,*t^  ;s«3^g(l0i»; 


I 


•looil  ill  the 
!  Lopez,  hut 
(1  J'araguay 

war  closed. 
y  id  by  war 
lacl  scarcely 
ioiial  luxury 

le  war,  with 
'lie  interior 
3r  was  hung 
r  red  satin, 
this  partieu- 
were  kept 
/.  demanded 
f  the  Imild- 
iiutilated  in 

3z  had  han- 
lakincf  laws 
roni  abroad 

)  lands.  In 
i  and  beau- 
.  There  is 
Both  kinds 
d  some  day, 
3  streams  of 
s  Tinhroken, 
aveler. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


253 


The  most  profitahle  business  in  Paraguay  is  stock 
raising.  The  grfiss  is  fine  and  there  are  no  frosts,  as 
there  are  farther  south  in  rruguay  and  the  Argentine 
Republic ;  so  the  cattle  are  finer  and  heavier  here  than 
in  either  r>f  the  other  states. 

The  expoits  of  the  country  are  beef,  mutton,  wool, 
hides,  and,  last  but  riot  least,  mate,  <ir  Paraguay  tea. 

The  drink  of  the  Brazilians  is  coffee.  At  all  hours 
of  the  day  they  consume  strong,  hot,  black  cotfee.  But 
the  peojjle  of  Paraguay  and  all  the  other  countries  in 
the  southern  half  of  South  America  prefer  mate. 

This  is  a  plant  something  like  the  holly.  It  grows  to 
be  ahout  ten  feet  tall ;  and  its  leaves  are  four  inches  in 
length,  with  a  rough  edge.  It  is  from  the  leaves  that 
the  tea  is  made. 

When  gathered,  they  are  spread  upon  a  framework 
of  poles  to  dry.  Then  they  are  heaten  to  a  fine  powder, 
which  falls  upon  the  clay  floor  below  in  dry,  light  piles. 
The  powder  is  collected  and  packed  in  hags  made  of 
undressed  hides.  The  bags  are  hung  in  the  sun,  and 
shrink  so  much  that  the  powder  is  compressed  hy  the 
action  of  the  leather  into  a  compact  mass.  It  is  then 
exported  from  Paraguay  into  other  countries  of  South 
America.     None  of  it  is  ever  sent  to  Europe. 

The  natives  drink  matd  hy  sucking  it  through  a  tul)e. 
The  common  peojile  use  a  hollow  reed  or  a  straw,  hut  the 
wealthier  class  have  their  tubes  f)f  silver  or  gold,  (ilass 
ones  are  excellent,  hecause  of  the  ease  with  which  they 
can  be  washed.  The  common  i)eople  have  the  best  of  it, 
as  the  wooden  tubes,  unlike  the  metal  ones,  never  burn 
the  mouth.     A  group  of  natives  pass  the  cu[)  of  matd 


t 

■i, 


A 


s  :i 


254 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


with  the  tube  from  one  to  anotlior,  but  foreigners  who 
like  tlie  drink  always  carry  their  own  tubes  in  neat 
cases. 

Paraguayan  tea, is  very  wholesome.  It  is  cooling  in 
summer  and  heating  in  winter.  It  tastes  like  catnip 
tea,  and  is  rarely  palatable  at  first.  But  witli  persever- 
ance the  tixste  for  it  can  be  acquired,  and  foreigners 
often  become  quite  fond  of  it. 

Nations  are  generally  hurt  by  indulging  in  a  national 
drink,  but  the  Paraguayans  form  the  single  exce[)tion 
to  the  rule.  They  are  benefited  both  intellectually  and 
physically  by  the  mat<3. 

Paraguay  is  the  home  of  the  manioc  [)hint  as  well. 
Manioc  comes  from  the  roots  of  the  manioc  plant, 
which  are  fleshy  like  those  of  the  potato.  The  juice  of 
the  roots  is  deadly  poison.  Still  y(;u  need  not  be  afraid 
to  eat  manioc ;  for  the  poison  is  driven  away  by  heat, 
and  when  once  the  manioc  root  is  baked  or  boiled  it  is 
as  harndess  iis  any  food. 

Manioc  flour  is  made  by  grinding  the  boiled  roots  of 
the  plant.  The  flour  is  made  into  bread  and  cakes,  and 
is  as  necessary  to  tlie  Paraguayan  table  as  is  wheat  flour 
to  the  tables  in  the  United  States  homes.  Tapioca  is 
made  by  boiling  the  flour  to  a  paste  and  then  letting 
it  cool.  As  the  paste  cools,  the  little  pearls,  or  globules, 
are  formed  by  crystallization. 

One  of  the  most  enterprising  states  on  the  western 
continent  is  Uruguay.  It  is  growing  as  fast  in  propor- 
tion to  its  area  and  population  as  the  United  States. 

Every  acre  of  land  is  pioductive.  Aladdin's  lamp 
could  not  bring  to  its  owqer  a  greater  variety  of  fruits 


:  i-ji^tttimmiie  ^,^i*jtf5«*<^!i?*^«^^»"--.  ■  "*■ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


255 


Foreigners  who 
tubes  in  neat 

.  is  cooling  in 
es  like  catnip 
with  persever- 
mcl  foreigners 

r  in  a  national 
igle  cxce[)tion 
jUeetually  and 

[)lant  as  well, 
manioc  i)lant, 
The  juice  of 
I  not  be  afraid 
away  by  heat, 
or  boiled  it  is 

loiled  roots  of 

md  cakes,  and 

is  wheat  flour 

s.     Tapioca  is 

I  then  letting 
Is,  or  globules, 

II  the  western 
fast  in  propor- 
:ed  States, 
laddin's   lamp 
riety  of  fruits 


and  vegetables  than  can  be  raised  in  one  single  garden 
plot.  C'dtl'ec  grows  beside  wheat;  tobacco,  barlc}',  and 
sugar  cane  sj)riMg  up  side  by  side;  while  apples,  pears, 
oranges,  and  lemons  can  be  gathered  in  the  same  or- 
chartl.  In  fact,  almost  every  fruit  and  vegetable  known 
in  the  world  can  find  a  home  in  Uruguay. 

The  grass  is  very  nutritious.  One  acre  of  pasture 
land  can  su[)port  many  more  oxen  than  an  acre  in  any 
other  state  wheie  cattle  are  raised.  It  is  hardly  to  be 
wondered  at  that  its  capital,  Montevideo,  is  second  only 
to  Buenos  Ayres  in  im[)ortance  among  the  cities  on  the 
La  Plata. 

Montevideo  is  situated  on  a  peninsula  which  forms 
one  side  of  its  harbor.  The  harbor  of  Montevideo  is 
really  only  a  fair  one.  Hut,  in  contrast  to  the  wretched 
harbor  ot  IJuenos  Ayres  oi)posite,  the  Montevideo  har- 
bor is  considered  an  excellent  one  by  seamen. 

Montevideo  is  the  Spanish  way  of  saying,  "  I  see  a 
motuitain."  The  mountain  which  the  traveler  is  sup- 
posed to  see  on  coming  to  this  place  is  a  hill  near  the 
city,  which  is  crowned  by  a  fort  and  a  lighthouse. 

This  lighthouse  may  be  an  exception  to  the  rule ;  but  it 
is  a  frequent  coni[)laint  of  seamen  that  the  lights  on  this 
coast  are  not  tended  and  kejjt  burning  with  the  perfect 
regularity  of  those  on  the  shores  of  North  America. 
The  lighthouse  keeper  looks  after  his  light  when  he  has 
no  engagement  to  go  hunting  or  fishing,  or  is  not  too 
tired  after  such  excursions. 

The  streets  of  Montevideo  are  wide,  well  paved,  and 
parallel  to  one  another.  They  are  lighted  by  gas,  and 
have  many  lines  of  horse  cars  running  through  them. 


..ss-*?".  "mi 


256 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


*5    i 


t' 


ill 


Some  of  the  houses  are  only  one  story  high,  while 
others  are  two  or  three  stories.  They  have  flat  roofs, 
which  make  them  resemble  Italian  villas.  Most  of  the 
architects  and  builders  of  Montevideo  are  Italians;  and, 
as  they  plan  and  build,  they  unconsciously  follow  their 
national  styles. 

Flat  roofs  are  a  great  addition  to  the  houses.  They 
are  used  as  piazzas ;  and  the  families  gather  there  in  the 
evening  to  enjoy  the  fresh  breeze  from  the  sea.  The 
fathei-s  and  mothers  smoke  their  cigarettes  tranquilly, 
the  children  play  about  or  eat  candies,  while  overhead 
the  stais  of  the  southern  hemisphere  burn  brilliantly. 

Montevideo  is  one  of  the  iKuUtliiest  cities  in  the  world. 
Indeed,  some  enthusiasts  have  called  it  a  veritable  Arca- 
dia. The  sea  breeze  tempers  the  heat  of  summer,  and 
the  warm  ocean  current  that  batiies  its  shores,  moderates 
the  cold  of  winter.  When  it  is  not  June,  it  is  October; 
and  when  it  is  not  October,  it  is  June. 

The  only  time  that  the  weather  of  Montevideo  is 
anything  but  delightful  is  when  the  winds  from  the 
Andes  blow.  Tlii'se  winds  are  called  pampei'os,  because, 
sweeping  down  the  slopes  of  the  Andes,  they  blow 
across  the  pampas,  or  plains  of  the  La  Plata.  Tliey  are 
very  cold  and  penetrating,  and  are  dreaded  everywhere. 
They  howl  through  the  streets  of  the  cities,  catch  uf) 
every  wisp  of  straw  and  grain  of  dust,  and  fling  them  in 
the  faces  of  the  pedestrians. 

Sailors  fear  the  sudden  gales  that  the  pamperos 
bring.  The  passage  from  Ca[)e  Horn  to  the  La  Plata 
is  always  dreaded  by  seamen  on  this  account.  Even 
when  not  actually  fighting  the  storm,  the  ca[)tain  wears 


-S,^_^ 


:»S^S'4.*«!)feW-':>«t'?i5'##!«^*j 


fc 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


257 


)ry  bigh,  while 
have  Hat  roofs, 
.  Most  of  the 
;  Italians;  and, 
sly  follow  their 

liouses.  They 
ler  tiiere  in  the 
the  sea.  The 
ttes  tranquilly, 
ttiiile  overhead 
11  brilliantly, 
es  in  the  world, 
veritable  Arca- 
oi  summer,  and 
ores,  moderates 
,  it  is  October ; 

Montevideo  is 
inds  from  the 
ipei'os,  because, 
'.es,  they  blow 
ata.  Tliey  are 
ed  everywhere. 
sities,  catch  up 
d  fling  them  in 

the  pamperos 
1  the  La  Plata 
iccount.  Even 
I  captain  wears 


an  anxious  face   during  this  part  of  his  voyage.     He 
knows  not  what  treachery  the  calmest  skies  may  hide. 

Montevideo,  owing  to  its  activity  and  industry,  ap- 
pears almost  like  a  North  American  city ;  but  it  has  a 
few  characteristics  which  seem  (jueer  to  a  foreigner. 
The  policemen  are  soldiers  of  the  army  detailed  to  this 
office  ;  and,  instead  of  clubs,  they  carry  swords. 

The  courtyards  of  many  of  the  houses  are  paved  with 
knuckle  bones,  which  are  arranged  in  ornamental  de- 
signs. The  knuckle  bones  belonged  to  sheep;  but  the 
citizens,  as  a  standing  jest,  try  to  make  the  traveler 
believe  that  these  are  the  bones  of  the  people  killed  in 
the  many  wars  of  the  state. 

Now  let  us  turn  to  the  most  important  state  of  the 
La  Plata,  —  the  Argentine  Republic.  Some  years  ago 
its  southern  boundary  was  the  Rio  Negro,  and  on  the 
farther  side  of  this  river  was  a  country  called  Pata- 
gonia. Recently  Chile  and  the  Argentine  Republic 
divided  Patagonia  between  them.  The  Andes  were  the 
dividing  line.  Chile  took  the  territory  to  the  west  and 
a  strip  extending  from  west  to  east,  just  north  of  the 
Strait  of  Magellan.  The  Argentine  Republic  had  the 
rest.     Patagonia  disappeared. 

With  its  increased  territory,  the  Argentine  Republic 
is  about  the  size  of  Mexico.  It  consists  mainly  of  the 
pampas,  or  Plains  of  the  La  Plata,  although  there  are 
some  fine  forests  within  its  boundaries. 

The  pampas  are  covered  with  grass.  One  can  ride 
for  miles  and  miles  without  seeing  a  tree  or  even  a 
bush.  The  grass  when  first  springing  up  is  of  a  clear, 
bright  green;  but  as  it  grows  taller,  it  changes  to  a 


..«&  •rsr^atg^gfir^ 


2o8 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


'i 


lighter,  paler  color.  This  is  perhaps  owing  t.)  the  dust 
whieh  settles  thickly  upon  it  at  some  seasons  of  the 
year. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  llepuhlic  there  is  a  rank 
growth  of  thistles.  The  thistles  and  clover  spring  up 
together;  hut  the  thistles  soon  outgrow  the  clover  and 
rise  to  a  height  of  ten  feet,  offering  a  thick,  close,  ini- 
penetrahle  harrier  to  any  one  trying  to  pass  through. 
Later  in  the  year  they  l)ecome  thin  and  dry,  and  at  last 
fall  to  the  ground  and  die.  Then  conies  the  spring  with 
the  fresh  clover  and  the  new  thistles,  and  the  yearly 
round  hegins  again. 

Any  one  riding  across  the  plains  finds  them  very 
solitary  at  times.  The  oidy  sound  he  hears  is  the  occa- 
sional cry  of  a  partridge  or  a  hawk.  The  tiny  mounds 
of  the  prairie  dog  dot  the  roadside  here  and  there.  Be- 
sides the  dog,  a  solitary  owl  or  a  pair  of  owls  gener- 
ally live  in  each  of  these  underground  houses.  Some- 
times the  owls  are  seen  solemnly  standing,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  doorw.ay,  guarding  the  house  of  their  little 
host  and  friend  ;  for  the  owl  and  the  prairie  dog  really 
do  form  a  warm  friendship.  Here  is  one  of  many  stories 
that  might  he  told  illustrating  that  fact. 

A  party  of  hunters  and  their  dogs  were  drowning  out 
a  prairie  dog's  home,  and  had  just  killed  the  little  beast 
himself.  The  owl,  who  had  been  hovering  over  their 
heads,  and  uttering  pathetic  cries,  on  the  death  of  its 
friend  nerved  itself  for  action.  With  a  furious  shriek, 
it  descended  upon  a  terrier  who  had  been  most  active 
in  the  hunt,  and,  perched  upon  its  head,  it  flapped,  its 
wings  against  the  dog's  face  and  pecked  it  with  its  beak. 


»» 


•-'l?f,"f,-^''!Sl!'!SI^? 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS 


2r)9 


iiig  t.)  the  dust 
seasons  of  the 

there  is  ;i  rank 
over  spring  up 
the  clover  and 
Lhiek,  chwe,  im- 
)  pass  tlirough. 
hy,  and  at  hist 
the  spring  with 
and  the  yearly 

ids  them  very 
sars  is  the  occa- 
he  tiny  mounds 
and  there.     Be- 

o{  owls  gener- 
houses.  Some- 
ig,  one  on  each 
3  of  their  little 
airie  dog  really 

of  many  stories 

e  drowning  out 
[  the  little  beast 
ring  over  their 
he  death  of  its 
furious  shriek, 
sen  most  active 
1,  it  flapped,  its 
it  with  its  beak. 


It  was  driven  away;  but  iialf  an  hour  later,  while  the 
hunters  were  in  a  distant  part  of  the  farm,  the  bird 
appeared  and  renewed  its  attack.  It  was  wild  with 
grief  and  anger  at  the  death  of  its  small  friend. 

The  plains  of  the  Argentine  Itepublic,  like  all  the 
plaiiLs  of  the  La  Plata,  are  used  for  grazing.  Millions 
and  millions  of  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep  are  herded 
here.  The  herdsm(;n  who  look  after  them  are  a  sti'ange, 
wild  set  of  men.  They  are  most  niaguHicent  riders,  and 
their  horses  are  i)erfectly  tiained. 

Once  a  eom[)any  of  circus  riders  came  to  Huenos 
Ayres,  and,  after  they  had  performed  their  usual  re- 
markable [)r()grannne,  a  i)arty  of  herdsmen  lode  into  the 
ring.  They  put  their  horses  through  the  same  antics 
that  the  circus  riders  had  i)eri'ormed,  and  exhibited 
other  feats  that  far  excelled  any  that  the  professionals 
had  .shown.  The  discomfited  company  sailed  away  to 
Valparaiso,  only  to  be  again  beaten  on  their  own  ground 
by  C'hilean  horsemen. 

The  herdsman  of  the  Argentine  Republic,  who  corre- 
sponds to  the  American  cowboy,  is  quite  a  picturesque 
figure.  He  wears  lai'ge,  loose,  enil)roi(lered  trousers,  a 
wide  sash  wound  several  times  about  his  waist,  a  broad- 
brimmed  Panama  hat,  and  a  poncho. 

The  poncho  is  a  curious  but  very  useful  gafnient.  It 
is  a  blanket  of  the  usual  size,  with  a  hole  in  the  centre 
through  which  the  head  is  thrust.  The  folds  of  the 
blanket  fall  about  the  arms  and  the  body  down  to  the 
knees.  The  arms  of  the  rider  are  left  free  to  handle  the 
reins.  The  poncho  serves  as  a  protection  from  the  heat 
of  summer,  the  cold  of  winter,  and  sudden  rainstorms. 


I 


n 


200 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


i   i' 

i 


'SI 
It 

51 


*  '     .   r 


TS.*9fe- 


The  best  ponchos  iuo  of  a  lif,'lit  yellow  color,  ami  are 
made  of  hair  from  an  animal  resembling  the  camel  in 
K>\  -pe.      They  are  as  soft  as  vclvit  and  as  Crui  a&  steel, 
.    i  Vii  for  generations 

Poxch  are  the  ancient  jjonclios;  but  to-<lay  cheaper 
i-  t-.iicnts  of  cotton  and  wool  are  made  abroad  and 
expc ;  ■•  to  the  valley  of  the  La  Plata.  These  ponchos 
answer  every  practical  puri)ose,  but  they  have  not  the 
value  of  the  ancient  garments.  The  Indians  greatly 
covet  the  finer  kind;  and  if  the  unsuspecting  traveler 
should  wear  such  a  one  among  them,  they  would  not 
hesitate  to  kill  him  in  order  to  secure  it. 

The  dress  of  the  herdsman  is  often  decorated  with 
large  silver  buttons ;  but  it  is  in  the  ornamentation  of 
his  saddle  and  bridle,  that  his  true  glory  appears.  Hun- 
dreds of  dollars  are  spent  upon  the  silver  mountings 
and  decorations  of  the  saddle.  Indeed,  the.  saddle  is  the 
herdsman's  bank ;  and,  to  keep  it  safe,  he  uses  it  as  a 
pillow  at  night. 

His  immense  spurs  are  of  solid  silver,  even  if  the  man 
himself  goes  barefoot.  With  his  cigarette  in  his  mouth, 
his  short  knife  in  his  hand,  and  his  la.sso  coiled  at  the 
pommel  of  his  saddle,  the  Argentine  ranchman  is  a  wild, 
daring  figure  as  he  passes  at  a  full  gallop. 

His  honu;  is  a  rude  mud  hovel  of  but  a  single  room. 
There  is  almost  no  furniture.  A  horse's  skull  forms 
the  only  seat,  unless  you  except  the  clay  floor  where 
the  children  sit  or  roll  about.  That  little  bundle 
hanging  against  the  wall  in  a  hammock  of  hide  is 
the  baby. 

All  the  children  are  very  healthy,  for  they  live  simply 


I 


mm^t^M 


color,  and  lire 
»  the  camel  in 
IS  CiViii  ah  steel, 

to-day  cheaper 
dc  abroad  and 
These  ponchos 
ly  have  not  the 
Indians  greatly 
)ecting  traveler 
they  would  not 

decorated  with 
■luunentation  of 
appears,  llun- 
Iver  mountings 
he.  saddle  is  the 
he  uses  it  as  a 

even  if  the  man 
te  in  his  mouth, 
so  coiled  at  the 
chman  is  a  wild, 

P- 

;  a  single  room. 

se's  skull   forms 

lay  floor  where 

it   little   bundle 

lock  of  hide   is 

they  live  simply 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


261 


on  meat  and  water:  u'd,  being  continually  out  of  doors 
exi)osed  to  the  tempests  and  all  sudden  changes  of 
wCiithei,  they  grow  tough  and  iiardy.  As  soon  as  a  boy 
can  toddle,  lie  is  given  a  small  lasso,  which  he  [)racliscs 
throwing  at  dogs  and  chickens.  VVlicn  he  comes  to  be 
four  or  live,  he  is  lifted  on  horseback  ;  and  the  rest  of 
his  life  he  may  be  said  to  spend  in  the  .saddle.  When 
ten  years  old,  he  is  of  use  in  driving  cattle. 

One  of  the  interesting  sights  on  a  ranch  is  the  braml- 
ing  of  the  cattle.  The  herdsman  singles  out  a  steer,  an> 
prepares  to  throw  his  lasso.  This  is  a  long  line  of  ru  ■• 
hide  with  a  noose  at  the  end.  The  man  gallops  a.,jr 
the  steer  and,  as  he  api)roaches,  with  unerring  aim  he 
throws  the  lasso,  which  instantly  catches  the  fore  ■  ^s 
of  the  beast  and  brings  him  to  the  ground.  A  sec  ;.(), 
ranchman  on  the  other  side  casts  a  lasso  about  the  ani- 
mal's head,  and  it  is  then  powerless  to  defciul  itself. 

The  hot  iron  is  brought  and  forced  against  the  shoul- 
der. The  brand  of  th(!  owner  is  so  burnt  into  the  skin 
that  it  remains  upon  the  hide  even  after  the  animal  has 
been  slain. 

Sometimes  an  ox  is  lassoed  by  the  horns  or  by  the 
fore  legs ;  but  whatever  may  be  the  aim  of  the  hunter, 
he  always  hits  the  mark. 

The  bolas  is  another  instrument  by  which  the  herds- 
man brings  down  the  cattle.  It  consists  of  two  balls  of 
iron  or  lead  connected  by  a  leather  thong  about  eight 
feet  in  length.  The  bolas  is  swung  round  the  head,  and 
then  launched  at  the  horns  or  legs  of  the  animal.  It 
winds  around  him  so  that  he  is  powerless  to  escape  the 
ranchman. 


I 


■  "»*  ""Tr.  I,  u.L«w»i.i)iytsa-»yiBS5»'«i<,-.«.'3W»«^. 


^^■^''■' 


rr 


I'  i 


h 


it 

,5^ 


|H 


'i 

If 


262 


THE   WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


It  is  said  that  the  hordsnieii  of  the  La  Pfatu  are  tlie 
fiiu'st  horsenu'U  in  tlie  woild.  And  they  may  well  he 
sn,  for  (hey  eat,  sleep,  and  spend  most  of  their  lives  in 
the  sad<lle.  Tliun  too,  they  are  always  raein<p  with  one 
another  and  playinjr  ^^ames  oi.  horsebaek  that  are  often 
very  harmful  to  the  horses. 

There  is  one  game  ealled  "crowding  horses"  whieh 
is  tei'rihle.  Two  ranchmen  wheel  off  to  a  <listanee,  and 
then  ride  furionsly  at  one  another,  meeting  with  so 
terrible  a  shock  that  one  or  both  of  the  horses  is  killed. 
Hut  the  men  do  not  care.  They  merely  removt;  their 
saddles  to  other  horses  and  continue  their  annisement. 

This  gives  you  an  idea  of  the  nund)er,  and  conse- 
quently small  value  of  horses  in  the  valley  of  the  La 
Plata.  A  line  pair  of  cairiage  lK)rses  (-an  be  i)ought 
for  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  and  a  saddle  horse 
for  forty. 

Every  one  rides  here.  The  menservants  and  maid- 
servants have  each  their  steeds  as  a  matter  of  course. 
This  is  the  country  where  the  old  nursery  jingle,  "If 
wishes  were  horses,  then  beggars  might  ride,"  really 
comes  true.  Here  wishes  are  horses,  and  the  beggars  do 
ride. 

It  is  no  unusual  thing  for  the  traveler  to  be  stopped 
by  a  man  on  horseback.  He  is  naturally  a  little  star- 
tled at  first,  but  recovers  his  self-possession  on  hearing 
the  supposed  brigand  whine  out,  while  extending  his 
palm,  "  A  little  money,  kind  sir,  f(u-  the  love  of  Heaven ; 
I  have  eaten  nothing  for  a  whole  day." 
•  The  horses  are  made  to  .serve  in  unusual  ways.  They 
tread  mud  for  bricks,  and  thrash  out  corn.     A  man  in- 


m. 


^v:^:-7mmmmAmmMmmf^&;iiX^m^^i^m^^^M'i. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


203 


ill  Piatii  are  the 
icy  limy  wull  he 
)f  their  lives  in 
raciiiif  with  one 
i  tiiiit  lire  often 

;•  iiorses  "  whieh 

I  a  <iistaiu'e,  and 

leetin^f   witli  so 

Iiorses  is  killed. 

ly  iciuove  their 

ir  amuseinent. 

iher,  and  eoiise- 

alley  of  the   La 

eaii   he  Ijoiight 

a  saddle  horse 

aiit-s  and  niaid- 
atter  of  eourse. 
sery  jingle,  "  If 
iit  ride,"  really 
1  the  heggars  do 

Br  to  be  stopped 
Uy  a  little  star- 
sion  on  hearing 
3  extending  his 
ove  of  Heaven ; 

al  ways.  They 
)in.     A  man  in- 


tending to  siiend  the  morning  in  fishing,  saddles  his 
horse  and  hastens  away  to  the  ehosen  stream.  There 
he  rides  into  the  water,  and,  baiting  his  hook,  ealnily 
fishes  from  the  bac-k  of  his  patient  steed  for  hours. 

The  daiiyinan  ehuriis  butter  by  means  of  his  horse. 
He  puts  the  cream  into  a  leather  bag,  wiiieh  he  fastens 
by  n  thong  to  his  saddle.  Tiien  he  s[)riiigs  u[)on  his 
horse,  and  eantei's  off  to  the  ctity  six  miles  away  over 
the  pampas.  The  bag  meainvliile  bounds  and  liou.ic.is 
along  till!  road  behind  him.  When  he  reaehes  the  eity, 
he  is  able  to  sell  butter  to  his  customers;  for  the  jounc- 
ing ride  has  turned  the  cream  in  the  hide  into  delicious 
fresh  butter. 

You  might  easily  guess  what  the  chief  exports  from 
the  Argentine  llepulilic  are.  They  all  come  from  the 
pampas,  and  are  as  follows :  mutton,  beef,  tallow,  hides, 
and  horns. 

Much  of  the  meat  sent  to  Europe  is  frozen.  The 
oxen  are  (piartered,  but  the  carcasses  of  the  sheep  are 
left  whole.  Hoth  are  hung  up  in  buildings,  the  tem- 
perature of  which  is  kept  below  the  freezing  point. 

After  a  few  weeks  the  meat  is  thoroughly  frozen. 
It  is  then  packed  in  the  hold  of  a  ship  which  has  been 
specially  prepared  for  its  reception.  The  hold  is  ar- 
ranged with  layers  of  felt  and  double  walls,  so  that  an 
even,  cold  temperature  may  be  ])reserved  throughout 
the  voyage.  Although  the  ship  jiasses  the  equator  and 
remains  many  days  in  the  tropics,  the  meat  reaches  the 
lOuropean  market  in  perfect  condition. 

The  merchants  v/ho  manage  this  branch  of  trade  meet 
with  great  success.     They  say  that  here  on  the  pampas 


"»■  -...ijwwuniHgyjass-i^iiSisBi 


264 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


M' 


I!; 


thure  is  food  eiiniigh  laiHud  lo  Hupply  thu  wholu  oi' 
Europe. 

Tlio  Arjjt^itiiH!  Kt!i»iilili<'  liii.s  ofton  Ihh^ii  likuiiod  to  our 
own  (Country.  It  is  oiiu  of  tlu;  most  cMitt'inri.siiij,'  iiatioiia 
in  Soutli  Ainoriiii ;  it  has  l>uilt  niiUiy  iiiiU-s  of  niilroiids; 
and,  when  studied  hy  distriets,  it  heaiy  a  curious  resem- 
bhmce  to  the  United  States. 

The  nortiiern  distriets  raise  cotton,  rice,  corn,  and 
sugar  cane,  like  our  Soutliern  States.  Wiieat  and  other 
grains  can  Ikj  raised  in  the  southern  (hstriets,  wliich  cor- 
respond to  our  Dakotas  and  Minnesota.  Altogether 
many  close  resemblances  besides  the  form  of  government 
can  be  discovered. 

Huenos  Ayres  has  one  of  the  woi'st  harbors  in  the 
world.  It  is  so  shallow  that  no  vessels  can  sail  near 
the  town.  They  are  obliged  to  anchor  six  miles  from 
shore ;  then  large  Iwats  called  lightera  conio  to  transfer 
passengers  and  cargoes  to  the  land. 

Sometimes  the  water  is  so  shallow  that  even  the 
lighters  cannot  approach  the  wharves.  Tiien  ck  ciirts 
are  driven  out  for  a  mile  or  so  into  the  river  to  meet 
the  lighters.  There,  while  the  water  rises  high  about 
the  wheels  of  the  carts  and  the  legs  of  the  long-sufYcring 
animals,  the  cargo  is  transferred  from  boats  to  carts,  and 
thus  brought  to  shore.  Occasionally  indignant  mules, 
pulling  loaded  carts  to  shore,  are  seen  with  all  but  their 
noses  and  eai-s  covered  with  water. 

The  depth  of  the  harbor  changes  with  the  clianging  of 
the  wind.  When  the  east  wind  blows,  the  harbor  is 
flooded.  When  the  pamperos  come  sweeping  down  from 
the  Andes,  the  water  of  the  harbor  is  blown  out  to  sea. 


,f. 


mfmmmmfi-mm^Mm^mimmmmm':w^&m' 


i^gt.; "'" 


tliu   wliolo  of 

I  likened  to  our 
pii.siiij,'  iiatioiia 
i!S  ol"  niilifHuls ; 
curious  resem- 

rice,  corn,  and 
'iu'ivt  and  other 
icts,  wiiich  cor- 
i.  Altogether 
of  government 

harhora  in  the 
»  can  Hail  near 

six  miles  from 
imo  to  transfer 

that  even  the 
Tiien  OK  carts 
river  to  meet 
ises  hif^h  about 
;  long-sufYcrinpf 
,ts  to  carts,  and 
diffnant  nudes, 
th  sill  but  their 

the  clianging  of 
,  the  liarbor  is 
nuff  down  from 
iwn  out  to  sea. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NtlGHBORS. 


'2{\'> 


Largo  Hhi[)H  have  to  shift  their  anchorage  with  nearly 
every  change  of  the  weather  vane. 

lint,  once  ashore,  the  traveler  cannot  fail  to  adniii'c 
Miieiios  Ayres.  The  wide  streets  are  parallel  thmiigh- 
out  tlic  city,  and  are  laid  out  at  right  angles  with  one 
anotliiM'.  'J'hen!  are  theatres,  hospitals,  churches,  public 
libraries,  and  museums. 

'i'he  banks  and  many  of  the  business  buildings  are 
truly  magniticent.  The  banks  are  built  of  luarliie,  and 
are  adorned  with  great  marble  colunins,  wliiili  cause 
them  to  resemble  palaces,  rather  than  Ituildings  for  the 
transaction  of  business. 

All  the  modern  improvements  are  here,  such  as  the 
telephone  and  the  elc(!tric  light.  Amcri(^an  news[)a[>crs 
are  readily  obtained,  and  "Harper's  Magazine"  and 
"The  Century"  can  be  bought  at  any  large  bookstore. 
The  citizen  of  Huenos  Ayres  prides  himself  on  his 
knowledge  of  the  United  States,  its  growth,  and  its 
politics. 

You  may  travel  the  length  and  breadth  of  South 
America  and  find  no  city  so  much  like  a  city  t»f  the 
United  States  as  Huenos  Ayres.  Here  the  pcoph;  are 
really  in  a  hurry ;  they  seem  to  realize  the  value  of 
time ;  and  busiiu!ss  is  actually  transacted  in  IJuenos 
Ayres  on  the  appointed  day,  instead  of  being  put  off 
through  an  endless  succession  of  to-morrows. 

The  Argentine  Republic  has  two  provinces  that  are 
not  yet  thoroughly  explored,  —  one  to  the  north,  and  the 
other  t(  he  south.  The  northern  province  is  Kl  Gran 
Chaco,  aiid  the  southern  is  the  region  formerly  known 
as  Patagonia. 


,#''*«^it;,.    "  ■""'^"' 


t   I 


266 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


El  Gran  Chaco  is  a  woiulorfully  rich  district,  if  all 
the  reports  of  it  are  true.  It  abounds  in  rich  forests 
and  plains,  and  has  valuable  stores  of  gold,  silver,  and 
diamonds. 

Patagonia  is  a  great  contrast  to  El  Gran  Chaco.  It  was 
not  worth  the  trouble  that  Chile  and  the  Ai'gcntine  Re- 
public took  to  secure  it.  Tlie  northern  part  of  Patagonia 
consists  of  grazing  lands,  but  the  southern  part  is  a 
dreary  desert,  inhabited  only  by  the  ostrich  and  a  queer 
little  species  of  antelope  wliich  is  hunted  for  its  skin. 

The  Patagonian  Indians,  before  the  division  of  their 
country  between  two  civilized  nations,  often  made  I'aids 
into  the  Argentine  Republic.  They  would  drive  their 
cattle  northward  as  winter  came  on,  and,  leaving  them 
feeding  in  tlie  sheltered  valleys  of  the  Andes,  would 
attack  the  rantdies,  steal  the  cattle,  and  send  the  ranch- 
men Hying  in  terror  to  the  capital.  Year  .by  year  they 
penetrated  farther  into  the  Republic. 

At  last,  the  president  resolved  to  bear  this  no  longer. 
He  had  a  wide,  deep  trench  dug  across  the  way  by 
which  they  would  return  home.  Then  mounted  ranch- 
men were  sent  to  drive  them  back  across  the  border. 
The  poor  Indians,  riding  at  a  gallop,  fell  into  the 
trench  and  were  killed  or  wounded.  The  few  who 
escaped  this  terrible  death  were  taken  prisoners.  So 
these  border  raids  ceased. 

The  Indians  of  Old  Patagonia  are  of  two  classes,  — 
the  Patagonians,  or  Horse  Indians,  and  tlie  Canoe  Indi- 
ans of  Terra  del  Fuego.  Tlie  latter  dwell  in  Chilean 
territory,  and  their  many  curious  habits  will  be  described 
in  the  next  chanter. 


r^M 


-,--■>-  ^i--  bstt 


***-««;•- 


li  district,  if  all 
I  ill  rich  forests 
gold,  silver,  and 

n  Chaco.  It  was 
13  Argentine  He- 
art of  Patagonia 
tliern  part  is  a 
•icli  and  a  queer 
I  for  its  skin, 
livision  of  their 
)ften  made  raids 
•nld  drive  their 
d,  leaving  them 
)  Andes,  would 
send  the  ranch- 
ar  .by  year  they 

this  no  longer. 
)ss  the  way  by 
mounted  ranoh- 
oss  the  border. 
,  fell  into  the 
The  few  who 
prisoners.     So 

two  classes, — 
the  Canoe  Indi- 
well  in  Chilean 
'ill  be  described 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


2G7 


The  ITorse  Indians  are  very  tall  and  strong.  The 
old  voyagers  used  to  say  that  Patagonia  was  inhabited 
by  "menne  of  that  biggeness  that  it  seemed  the  trees  of 
the  forests  were  uprooted  and  were  moving  away." 
This  was  exaggerated,  of  course,  although  nearly  all 
the  Indian  braves  are  six  feet  in  height.  Their  occu- 
pation consists  in  tendiiig  their  herds  of  cattle,  and  in 
hunting  ostriches,  sometimes  for  meat,  but  oftener  for 
feathers. 

The  South  American  ostrich,  called  the  Rhea,  differs 
from  the  African  in  a  few  points  of  anatomy  and  in 
having  brown  feathers  tipped  with  white,  while  the 
African  ostrich's  feathers  are  gray.  The  Indians  pursue 
them  on  horseback  and  catch  them  by  using  the  bolas. 
They  do  not  kill  the  birds  iniless  they  need  food,  but 
merely  pluck  the  valuable  feathers. 

The  eggs  are  always  relished  by  the  Indians.  One 
egg  contains  as  much  meat  as  ten  hen's  eggs.  Single 
eggs  are  often  found  upon  the  sand,  but  sometimes  the 
Patagonian  discovers  an  ostrich's  nest,  hidden  beneath 
a  bush,  in  a  deep  hollow  of  the  sand.  As  it  contains 
anywhere  from  ten  to  forty  eggs,  such  a  discovery  is  a 
fortunate  one. 

Sometimes  a  nest  of  young  ostriclies  is  lighted  upon. 
The  hunt  n-  is  sure  to  kill  them  all,  because  the  thirty 
tiny  speckled  breasts,  when  made  into  a  soft,  warm, 
beautiful  rug,  bring  a  good  price  in  Punta  Arenas,  the 
only  town  in  all  this  territory.  Steamers  ro/nding  Cape 
Horn  stop  at  Punta  Arenas  for  coal,  and  the  passengers 
are  delighted  to  purchase  these  rugs  as  mementoes  of 
the  southernmost  town  in  South  America. 


■"'.WvSS:-    ■--•.—-I.- 


,■  I 


i    I 
J    I 


268 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  dress  of  the  Patagoiiian  is  a  siii<rle  garment  made 
of  the  skin  of  the  little  antelope.  His  food  is  very 
simple,  consisting  of  the  meat  of  the  horse  and  the 
ostrich,  and  ostriji^h  eggs.  He  lives  in  a  tent,  althongh 
at  some  seasons  of  the  j-ear  the  weather  is  extremely 
cold.  lie  has  no  edncation  whatever.  Yon  would 
think  this  life  miserable,  but  no  doubt  he  is  perfectly 
happy  and  contented. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


A^ 


RE  YON  I)    TIIK     ANDES. 

In  the  year  1895,  a  railroad  running  from  the  Atlan- 
tic to  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  crossing  the  lofty  Andes, 
will  connect  Huenos  Ayres,  the  chief  conimercial  city 
of  the  Argentine  Republic,  with  Valparaiso,  the  port  of 
Chile.  Few  can  realize  what  thought,  labor,  sacrifice., 
and  life  have  been  expended  in  the  construction  of  this 
railroad. 

The  section  of  the  line  that  crosses  the  Andes  them- 
selves is  of  course  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  task. 
Slowly  the  builders  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains  are 
a[)i)roaching  nearer  and  nearer,  Tuitil  at  last  the  steel 
bands  will  knit  together,  and  the  oceans  will  be  linked 
by  an  iron  chain,  the  first  which  has  stretched  across 
this  continent. 

For  some  years  the  whistle  of  the  locomotive  hiis 
startled  the  grazing  cattle  on  the  pam[)as,  as  the  train 
from    Buenos    A  vies    to    jNIendoza    went    whizzing   b3\ 


.^^-'^^i' 


3  garment  made 
is  food  is   very 

horse   and  the 

I.  tent,  although 

er  is  extremely 

Yon   would 

he  is  perfectly 


rom  the  Atlan- 
le  lofty  Andes, 
onimercial  city 
liso,  tlie  port  of 
labor,  sacrifice, 
ruction  of  this 

le  Andes  them- 
irt  of  the  task. 

mountains  are 
,  last  the  steel 

will  be  linked 
tretched  across 

ocomotive  has 
las,  as  the  train 
i    whizzing   b3\ 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


2C9 


But  at  Mendoza,  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes,  the  trains 
stopped.  Any  adventurous  traveler  wlio  wished  to 
cross  the  Andes,  m.ust  hire  a  guide  and  mules  with 
which  to  proceed  on  his  way. 

Let  us  sup[)ose  that  we  are  setting  out  on  such  a  five 
days'  journey  up  and  over  the  huge  backbone  of  South 
America. 

Tlie  little  cavalcade  moves  briskly  off.  First  in  the 
procession  comes  the  bell  mule,  which  all  the  other 
mules  follow;  then  three  extra  mules  to  be  used  to 
relieve  the  others;  then  tlie  pack  mule,  poor  fellow, 
with  blankets,  canned  meats,  preserves,  and  other  neces- 
sities strapped  ui)on  his  back  and  jutting  out  at  many 
curious  angles.  The  guide  follows  the  pack  mule,  and 
the  travelers  bring  up  the  rear. 

The  pack  mule  seems  to  be  a  lively  fellow.  He  is  con- 
tinually straying  from  the  path  to  crop  some  tempting 
bit  of  herbage.  The  sorely  tried  guide  has  fo  pursue 
him  and  bring  him  back  to  the  path  of  duty.  Then  the 
burdens  have  to  be  readjusted ;  and,  to  keep  the  mule 
quiet  while  this  new  arrangement  is  being  completed, 
the  guide  throws  his  poncho  over  the  animal's  head. 

A  mule  thus  muffled  is  a  comical  sight  to  those  who 
look  on.  But  the  sudden  darkness  that  has  descended 
over  him  is  no  laughing  matter  to  the  mule.  He  stands 
very  still,  and,  after  the  light  of  day  is  again  restored, 
he  goes  on  quite  soberly  for  a  time. 

The  dress  of  the  guide  resembles  that  of  the  ranch- 
men of  the  pampas.  It  consists  of  a  wide-brimmed  Pan- 
ama hat  tied  under  the  chin,  a  large  blanket,  or  poncho, 
wide  trousers,  leather  gaiters,  and  enormous  silver  spurs. 


..^  ■.,^--.- 


1 


t     ? 

in 

!'■     t. 


II « 


k !  ,: .;  '■ 


li'     'if: 


270 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  saddle  is  made  up  of  many  layers.  First,  come 
several  sheepskins,  upon  which  is  settled  the  woddeu 
framework  of  the  saddle.  To  this  are  attaeheil  the  stir- 
rups, while  overall  iire  thrown  several  more  sheejjskins. 
We  can  tell  by  the  trappings  of  his  nnile  tJiat  our 
guide  is  poor ;  for,  if  he  were  rich,  the  outer  layer  of  his 
saddle  would  he  a  fur  rug,  and,  instead  of  having 
clumsy  wooden  stii'rups  weighing  as  much  as  live 
pounds,  his  stirrups  and  part  of  his  bridle  would  be  of 
silver. 

The  bit  for  the  mule  is  tremendously  large  and  heavy. 
It  weighs  fully  five  pounds,  and  a  reckless  jeik  might  be 
enough  to  break  the  poor  animal's  jaw.  Fastened  to  the 
reins  is  a  long  whiplash,  which  is  of  use  when  we  meet 
a  drove  of  cattle  coming  down  the  mountain  side.  A 
few  stinging  blows  of  this  lash  induce  the  slow,  heavy 
beasts  to  keep  their  distance. 

It  is  hardly  safe  to  cross  the  Andes  between  April 
and  October.  Only  mail  carriers  venture  to  cross  dur- 
iig  those  months,  on  account  of  the  danger  from  the 
st-«mis  and  avalanches.  December  and  January  are  the 
safest  months  for  traveling. 

The  trail  is  not  tl-.iough  an  unpeopled  desert  as  it 
once  was.  Every  t«;'C;nty  miles  or  so  tliere  are  railroad 
camps,  full  of  the  employees  of  the  company  which  is 
laying  the  line. 

These  camps  are  mostly  very  wretched.  Here  is  one 
situated  on  a  sterile,  brown  plain,  surrounded  by  tower- 
ing mountains  whose  sides  are  as  dry  and  brown  as  the 
plain  below.  The  village  is  composed  of  a  few  dwelling 
houses,  a  brick  oven,  where  most  of  the  cooking  is  done, 


T^miri,' 


•s.  yirst,  come 
ed  the  woddeii 
laehed  the  stir- 
lore  sheejjskiii.s. 

mule  tJiat  our 
Iter  Layer  of  his 
eiid    of   haviug 

much  as  live 
He  would  be  of 

irge  and  heavy. 
s  jerk  might  be 
-'listened  to  the 
when  we  meet 
ntain  side.  A 
he  slow,  heavy 

between  April 
■e  to  cross  dur- 
lUger  from  the 
anuary  are  the 

;d  desert  as  it 
re  are  railroad 
ipany  which  is 

.  Here  is  one 
ided  by  tower- 
l  l)rown  as  the 
a  few  dwelling 
loking  is  done, 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


271 


and  a  miserable  store,  where  meat  and  liquor  can  be 
bouglit.  The  one-story  houses  are  of  stone  or  clay,  and 
are  roofed  with  iron.  There  are  no  comforts,  and  barely 
the  necessities  of  life. 

Everything,  even  to  the  fodder  for  the  horses,  must 
be  brought  by  mules  over  the  mountains.  Alagazines 
and  newspapers  are  highly  prized  by  the  few  well  edu- 
cated engineers,  who  lead  a  lonely  life  in  these  villages, 
where  the  population  consists  only  of  rough  workmen 
and  a  few  Indian  women  and  children.  Travelers  are 
always  very  welcome,  and  are  treated  to  the  best  the 
place  affords. 

You  would  scarcely  believe  that,  in  ascending  the 
Andes,  the  traveler  would  ride  for  a  whole  day  through 
a  district  resembling  nothing  so  mucli  as  the  desert  of 
Sahara.  Not  a  single  bit  of  green  is  seen.  The  sun 
blazes  overhead  ;  the  rocks  glow  like  molten  lava ;  the 
dry,  liot  wind  lifts  the  sand  and  flings  it  against  his 
face.  His  lips  parch,  his  skin  burns,  and  his  eyes  grow 
bloodshot.  He  longs  for  water,  and  the  sound  of  the 
fresh  river,  roaring  'hrough  caverns  far  below,  only 
increases  his  thirst. 

Another  stage  of  the  journey  brings  us  to  several 
rivers.  Owing  to  recent  rains,  they  are  oftentimes 
swollen  so  dangerously  that  the  traveler  now  may  have 
more  than  enough  of  the  water  which  he  yesterday  so 
cai'nestly  desired. 

Narrow  planks  form  the  only  bridge,  but  the  muUsj 
cannot  cross  on  them.  The  guide  pushes  the  mules 
into  the  stream  one  by  one,  and  they  swim  bravely  ovtr. 

Then  into  the  wilderness  we  pass  again,  higher  and 


ill 


I 


I 


I   ) 

ll 


it 

.11. 


m 


272 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS    PEOPLE. 


even  higher.  Hut  climl)  as  persistently  as  we  may,  the 
mountains  still  loom  aliove  us,  and  darken  the  day  hy 
their  gloomy  shadows. 

The  way  is  ujuitterably  lonely,  too;  only  the  regular 
telegraph  poles  give  us  confidence  by  assuring  us  that 
man  has  been  here  befoie.  No  sound  is  heard  save  the 
tinkle  of  the  mule  IjcU  or  the  scream  of  the  condor. 
The  skeletons  of  oxen  and  horses  lie  along  the  road, 
and  in  some  i)laces  the  condors  are  feeding  on  their 
dead  bodies.  Tliese  birds  are  always  fluttering  and 
wheeling  over  the  most  dangerous  passes,  as  if  waiting 
for  some  unfortunate  mule  and  his  rider  to  go  tumbling 
down  the  precipice. 

The  mule  displays  wonderful  sagacity  throughout 
the  journey.  He  sets  down  liisioot  so  cautiously,  and 
holds  to  the  scantiest  foothold  so  tenaciousl3%  that  again 
and  again  tlie  traveler  blesses  the  sure-foo.ted  animal  he 
rides. 

Once  two  trains  of  travelers  met  in  a  dangerous 
place,  Avhere  the  mules  could  not  pass  one  another. 
The  mule  upon  which  one  of  the  guides  was  seated, 
turned  round  in  a  space  about  a  foot  and  a  half  wide 
and  retraced  hfs  steps  until  he  reached  a  place  of  safety. 
There  he  waited  until  the  other  train  had  passed,  before 
resuming  his  own  journey. 

The  single  charge  the  guide  gives  the  traveler  is  not 
to  jerk  the  Inldle  when  in  danger,  but  to  let  the  mule  . 
act  according  to  its  own  instincts.  Eveiy  one  will  be 
safe  then.  In  the  lowlands  the  guide  often  abuses  his 
mules  and  speaks  roughly  to  them,  but  among  the 
mountains  his  manner  is  entirely  changed.      He  here 


'■*sfe«fi?^|44^giii^is.3f^^ 


.*<Mm'''- 


LE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


273 


y  as  we  may,  tlie 
ikeu  tlie  (lay  by 

only  the  regular 
iissuring  us  tliat 
j  heard  save  tlie 
1  of  the  condor, 
along  the  road, 
feeding  on  their 
s  fluttering  and 
es,  as  if  waiting 
[•  to  go  tumbling 

city  throughout 
)  cautiously,  and 
ousl}',  that  again 
bo.ted  animal  he 

in  a  dangerous 
88  one  another, 
ides  was  seated, 
md  a  half  wide 
I  place  of  safety. 
id  passed,  before 

e  traveler  is  not 
to  let  the  mule 
feij  one  will  be 
often  abuses  his 
but  among  the 
iged.      He  here 


speaks  to  them  in  a  soft,  gentle  tone,  and  they  seem  to 
enjoy  the  confidence  which  he  places  in  them. 

Dear,  brown-coated,  long-eared  uiiimalsl  They  are  a 
great  ileal  better  than  tlicy  seem,  or  tiian  I  lie  guide 
would  let  you  suppose.  The  least  that  can  be  said  in 
their  favor  is  that  they  return  good  for  evil. 

The  guide  prefei's  tliat  the  highest  i)art  of  the  crossing 
should  be  made  in  the  morning,  as  storms  often  arise 
in  the  afternoon.  This  morniiig's  ride  takes  us  over 
the  divide  of  the  Atlantic  and  i'acilic  slopes,  which  is 
fully  twelve  thousand  feet  high. 

Some  people,  and  even  some  mules,  cannot  endure  the 
thinness  of  the  air  at  this  height,  and,  on  being  seized 
with  violent  bleeding  of  the  nose  or  lungs,  are  obliged  to 
hurry  down  the  mountains.  If  they  should  t"r<^i8t  in 
continuing  their  journey,  they  might  die. 

None  of  our  party  are  thus  alllicted;  and  ve  cross 
the  watershed  in  safety,  gazing  with  awe  at  the  snowy 
summits  and  sides  of  the  lofty  mountains  and  at  the 
many  overhanging  avalanches.  Along  the  pathway  are 
many  rude,  unfurnished  caves,  which  have  been  erected 
as  places  of  refuge  for  the  mail  carriei's  in  times  of 
sudden  storms. 

Sometimes  a  mail  canier  is  snowed  up  in  one  of 
these  caves  for  weeks.  lie  remains  until  his  food  is 
exhausted,  when,  though  encountering  gi'eat  risks,  he 
attempts  to  descend  to  the  lower  world  once  more. 
Sometimes  he  succeeds,  but  often  he  loses  his  way  and 
perishes  in  the  snow. 

And  now  the  beautiful  panorama  of  the  western  side 
of  the  Andes  opens  befojo  us.     We  hasten  down  the 


V 


^im'"'mk 


"«»)*»>*»■»'*.•■- 


r  ri 


274 


THE  WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE. 


t:     »   i 
I-    !;  I 


■-1 


steej)  descent  .and  find  ounsulves  in  the  li*^tle  Chilean 
town  of  San  Uo.sa  de  lo8  Andes.  From  this  place  we 
may  go  by  rail  directly  to  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chile, 
and  thence  to  V'alparaiso,  the  chief  seaport. 

The  Cliileans  say  that  they  are  the  Yankees  of  South 
America.      So  to  show  their  Yankee 


A    RAILROAD    BRIDGE    IN    CHILE. 


spirit  of  energy  and  acquisition,  they  recently  engag«;d 
in  a  war  with  Peru  and  Bolivia.  Peru  was  beaten,  and 
the  Chileans  extended  their  narrow  strip  of  territory 
several  degrees  northward,  taking  in  all  the  coast  of 
Bolivia  and  a  little  of  the  coast  of  Peru. 

Then,  by  a  peaceable  division  of  Patagonia  with  the 
Argentine  Republic,  Chile  gained  ail  tlie  teriitory  west 
of  the  Andes,  Tierra  del  Fuego,  and  a  bit  of  land  north 


m 


.-IJV, 


LE. 


OUK  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


275 


lie  liHle  Chilean 
111  this  place  we 

capital  of  Chile, 
lort. 

aiikees  of  South 


ecently  engagt.'d 
was  beaten,  and 
ii'ip  of  territory 
all  the  coaKt  of 

agonia  with  the 
le  tenitory  west 
ni  of  land  north 


of  the  Strait  of  Magellan.  It  is  said  tliat  Chile  Avants 
to  concpu'r  tliat  section  of  Bolivia  and  I'cru  that  will 
give  her  the  control  of  the  up[)(;r  springs  of  the  Aniazoii. 
But  at  present  she  wisidy  remains  cinitent  with  her  late 
coiKincsts,  as  well  she  may. 

As  some  one  has  said,  the  map  of  Chile  at  present 
"looks  like  the  leg  of  a  tall  man,  very  lean,  with  a  very 
high  instep  and  several  conspicuous  bunions." 

Chile  is  bounded  on  the  cast  by  the  Andes,  and  on 
the  west  by  the  PaciiHc  Ocean.  Her  nortliern  boundary 
runs  well  into  the  troj)ics,  and  her  southern  point,  ('ape 
Horn,  is  covered  with  snow  and  ice  the  year  round. 
On  accoiuit  of  its  extreme  narrowness  Chile  is  not 
usually  considered  a  large  country,  but  it  is,  in  reality, 
larger  than  any  nation  in  Europe  except  Russia. 

Chile  has  three  regions,  running  more  or  less  into  one 
anotlier,  and  yet  on  tlie  whole  fairly  distinct.  Begin- 
nino-  at  the  north,  they  lie  as  follows:  the  mineral 
region,  the  agricultural  region,  and  the  region  of 
forests  and  fisheries. 

The  soil  of  the  old  coast  of  Bolivia  is  rich  in  nitrates, 
and  these  with  the  guano  of  Peru  are  exported  by 
Chile.  They  bring  in  quite  an  annual  income,  and  the 
government  is  usiiig  this  money  to  build  men-of-war. 

The  agrieidtural  district  is  included  within  a  few 
degrees  of  latitude.  Chile  consists  of  a  long,  central 
valley  lying  between  two  parallel  and  lofty  mountain 
ranges,  the  Andes  and  the  Cordillera.  The  Cordillera 
skirts  the  coast  closely  in  northern  Chile  ;  but  in  south- 
ern Chile  the  range  has  been  broken  up  into  sections. 
The  ocean  has  rushed  in  between  these  sections,  and  wo 


1 1 
it  ■' 


!; 


■.-.'ir.»i-.'  viitfavi. 


[  -' 


276 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


I    ;  I 


I,  ' 


16 


find  remnants  of  the  cluiin  in  tlio  continuous  line  of 
rocky  islands  that  follow  the  coast. 

The  ciMitnil  valley  of  what  is  called  agricultural 
Chile  was  once. a  chain  of  lakes,  such  as  is  found  he- 
twcen  th(!  niouiilain  ranges  of  Kouthern  C!hile  at  the 
present  day.  'I'he  water  in  the  lakes  to  tlu"  north  has 
been  drawn  off  by  volcanic  action,  and  the  dei)osit  which 
the  streams  have  brought  down  from  tlie  hills  to  the 
lakes  is  exposed.  This  makes  a  few  fertile  places,  but 
generally  irrigation  hius  to  be  resorted  to  in  order  to 
improve  the  very  poor  natural  soil  of  Chile. 

Irrigation  is  managed  in  this  way.  The  farmers  of  a 
certain  neighborhood  have  a  canal  built.  All  along  the 
canal,  sluiceways  are  made  which  let  thirty-five  cubic 
(lentimeters  of  water  per  second  pa.ss  off  through  'hannels 
into  the  fields  to  the  right  or  to  the  left.  Each  farmer 
subscri])es  for  one  or  more  of  these  sluieewaj's. 

He  has  a  rough  dam,  which  turns  aside  the  water  from 
the  channel  that  enters  his  iield,  upon  his  land,  at  a  par- 
ticular spot.  When  every  inch  of  grouiul  there  has  l)een 
carefully  watered,  the  dam  is  moved  to  another  place,  and 
a  second  plot  of  ground  is  irrigated. 

Fine  fruits,  particularly  grapes,  are  raised  in  abun- 
dance, and  wines  are  made  and  exported.  Some  of  the 
Chilean  wines  go  to  Europe,  but  most  of  them  are  con- 
sumed on  the  Pacific  coast. 

The  agricultural  district  is  also  the  region  of  many  . 
flourishing  cities.     There  is  space  here  to  deserilie  only 
two,  —  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chile,  and  Valparaiso, 
its  principal  port. 

Santiago  is  situated  in  the  central  valley  of  Chile,  at 


-Sttrn' 


'ia^V8i®?.-.ai:lE®»3ft56'^«®l  - 


.E. 

iitiiiuous  line  of 

led  aj,ni('ultural 
as  is  found  he- 
rn Chile  at  the 
to  tlu!  north  has 
lie  deposit  vvhieii 
the  hills  to  the 
utile  places,  hut 
.  to  in  order  to 
lile. 

riie  farmers  of  a 
.  All  along  the 
thirty-five  cuhic 
hrough  <;hainiels 
t.  Each  farmer 
;e\va3's. 

e  the  water  from 
is  land,  at  a  par- 
id  there  hiis  heen 
lother  place,  and 

raised  in  ahun- 
d.  Some  of  the 
if  them  are  con- 
region  of  many 
to  deserilio  only 
and  Valparaiso, 

ley  of  Chile,  at 


OUR   AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


277 


one  end  of  a  long,  brown  plain.  Its  climate  is  nearly 
perfect.  It  rains  four  mouths  of  tiie  year,  hut  during 
the  remaining  eight  months  tlie  sun  shines  steadily  with 
a  mild  warmth  that  is  very  deliglitfnl. 

The  sunrises  and  sunsids  on  the;  mountains  are  won- 
derfully beautiful.  At  early  dawn  the  rosy  light  begins 
to  j)lay  on  the  summits  of  the  Andes;  then  step  by 
8te[)  it  creeiis  down  the  side  of  tin;  mountain  into  the 
valley,  until  the  whole  city  and  i)lain  are  bathed  in  the 
morning  glow. 

The  sunsets  are  even  more  beautiful ;  fm- sometimes  a 
rainbow  eft'eet  is  produced,  and  lights  of  violet,  blue, 
green,  and  red  tint  all  the  hills. 

The  light  seems  to  linger  longest  on  the  snowy  crater 
of  Aconcagua,  the  highest  volcano,  not  only  of  the 
Andes,  but  of  the  Western  Hemisphere.  Aconcagua  is 
two  thousand  feet  higher  than  the  famous  Chimborazo. 
Its  exact  height  is  twenty-two  thousand  four  hundred 
and  fifteen  feet.  No  one  has  ever  explored  the  suniniit, 
which  is  covered  with  a  perpetual  coating  of  glaciei"s 
and  avalanches. 

The  city  of  Santiago  is  laid  out  as  exactly  as  a 
checkerboard.  The  streets  are  the  dividing  lines,  and 
the  blocks  of  houses  the  squares.  The  houses  are  built 
low  on  account  of  the  freipient  earthquakes,  and  are 
seldom  more  than  one  or  two  stories  in  height. 

The  first  story  is  built  of  stone,  and  the  second  story, 
if  there  is  one,  is  of  cane,  plastered  with  mud  and 
stucco,  and  colored  with  various  bright  shades  of  rose, 
blue,  Jind  yellow.  Some  recent  houses  have  been  built 
of  stone  and  brick,  clamped  together  with  iron  braces. 


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278 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  houses  of  the  wealthy  are  in  the  Spanish  style,  be- 
ing built  about  siiuare  courts  o2ien  to  the  sky. 

The  poor  live  either  in  tumble-down  hovels  in  the 
centre  of  the  tqwn,  or  in  cane  huts  on  its  outskirts. 
Tliey  have  nuul  lloors  and  very  little  furniture  in  their 
houses,  and  live  upon  beans,  bread,  and  onions.  Water- 
melons, which  can  be  bought  very  cheap,  are  their  only 
luxury.  Santiago  might  almost  be  called  the  city  of 
watermelons,  as  people  can  be  seen  eating  them  in  pub- 
lic daily,  and  the  rinds  are  thrown  everywhere. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  plaza.  This  large, 
shady,  grassy  scjuare  has  a  bron/x'  fountain  playing  on 
the  summit  of  a  series  of  terraces  covered  with  shade 
trees  and  flowers.  This  ornamental  centre  of  the  plaza 
is  locked  at  night,  so  that  the  flowers  may  not  be  stolen 
by  the  street  boys.  Thieving  is  one  of  the  chief  sins  of 
the  nation,  and  the  boys  only  follow  the  example  which 
their  elders  set  them. 

In  the  Peruvian  war,  the  Chileans  plundered  the 
Peruvians  most  unmercifully.  They  sent  off  to  their 
own  country  shiploads  of  statuary,  bronze  fountains  and 
lamp-posts,  marble  seats,  finely  wrought  silver  railings, 
clocks,  pianos,  nnd  furniture.  And  now  the  streets  of 
Santiago  are  enriched  by  the  very  treasures  which  once 
adorned  Lima  and  Callao. 

The  plaza  is  the  centre  of  the  life  of  the  city.  It  is 
surrounded  by  the  Cathedral,  the  Bishop's  Palace,  the 
City  Hall,  and  a  large  number  of  shops  and  booths. 

Early  in  the  morning,  women  wrapped  in  black  veils 
can  be  seen  hastening  across  the  plaza  to  early  mass. 
A  poorer  class  of  women  are  sweeping  the  crossings 


"JIIIBIIHA, 


'tmmm^^ . 


■j^*'   "'»^:tV\ 


'LE. 

"ipanis'i  style,  be- 
lie sky. 

vn  hovels  in  the 
on  its  outskirts, 
uiniture  in  their 
onions.  Water- 
p,  are  their  only 
ailed  the  city  of 
ing  them  in  pub- 
rywhere. 

iza.  This  large, 
itain  playing  on 
.'ered  with  shade 
litre  of  the  plaza 
lay  not  be  stolen 
the  chief  sins  of 
e  example  which 

1  plundered  the 
ient  off  to  their 
ze  fountains  and 
t  silver  railings, 
w  the  streets  of 
iures  which  once 

'  the  city.  It  is 
op's  Palace,  the 
and  booths, 
ed  in  black  veils 
ii  to  early  mass, 
g  the  crossings 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


279 


with  willow  brooms.  On  every  street  an  impatient 
crowd  are  gathered  about  the  "cow  stution."  This  is  a 
platform  on  which  a  cow  stands  to  be  milked,  at  the 
request  of  any  one  who  brings  a  cup  or  a  bucket  to  be 

filled. 

At  the  time  of  morning  mass  large  crowds  ©f  servants 
are  gathered  about  these  stations,  waiting  for  the  daily 
portion  of  milk  for  the  families  which  they  serve. 
When  one  cow  can  give  no  more  milk,  another  is  driven 
upon  the  platform.  As  the  trade  continues  all  day,  the 
owner  of  the  platform  must  make  considerable  money. 

Later  in  the  morning  cabmen  stand  by  the  plaza,  in- 
specting all  who  pass,  in  hopes  of  a  fare.  Peasants  from 
the  country  drive  their  heavy  wooden  carts  through  the 
street.  TJiese  carts  are  drawn  either  by  oxen  or  horses, 
and  are  piled  high  with  fruits  and  vegetables. 

The  fruits  are  of  two  zones,  owing  to  the  proximity 
of  Santiago  to  the  mountains.  One  can  buy  strawber- 
ries, grapes,  figs,  peaches,  pears,  quinces,  plums,  cher- 
ries, oranges,  lemons,  and  apples  in  the  market  place. 
And  we  must  not  forget  to  add  watermelons.  After 
the  traveler  has  bought  one,  the  market  man  or  woman 
sometimes  kindly  allows  him  to  eat  it  beneath  the  shade 
of  the  awning  of  the  booth. 

Donkeys  often  pass  through  the  plaza  laden  with 
clover  which  covers  them  completely,  so  that  they 
resemble  moving  haystacks.     The  street  cars  also  start 

here. 

The  street  cars  have  seats  upon  the  roof  as  well  as 
within  the  car  itself.  The  seats  on  the  roof  are  reached 
by  a  stair  winding  up  from  the  back  platform.     They 


n 


n 


■  tft  0t'  (■■  ■"'^•■"" 


1  ^\ 

ill 


'  t 
f  i 


4  \ 


l'^ 


If  s 


U*.     \ 


280 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


command  tlie  view,  of  course,  and  are,  niMreover,  half 
the  price  of  an  inside  seat.  The  full  fare  is  live  cents. 
The  horse  car  conductor  is,  strange  to  say,  a  woman. 
All  the  conductors  in  Chile  are  women.  They  under- 
took this  occu])ation  when  the  men  wei-e  away  fighting 
in  Peru  and  have  retained  it  ever  since. 

The  conductor  wears  a  neat  navy  blue  suit,  a  wide- 
brinnned  straw  hat,  and  a  i)retty  white  apron  with 
pockets  for  tickets  and  change.  Above  her  stand,  on 
the  rear  platform,  hangs  a  bag  containing  her  luneheon, 
extra  tickets,  and  money.  She  fills  her  ofhce  with  much 
dignity  and  is,  in  every  way,  a  success. 

At  night  the  i)laza  is  liveliest  of  all.  G«ntlemen  and 
ladies  promenade  through  the  walks,  the  band  plays, 
and  the  shops  exhibit  their  most  tempting  goods. 

From  eight  to  eleven  in  the  evening  is  the  time  when 
most  of  the  shopping  is  done.  The  wonien  trip  over 
from  the  plaza  to  inspect  the  stores  and  to  buy  beautiful 
laces,  diamonds,  and  jewelry.  The  shops,  which  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  are  dull  and  slow,  are  now  thoroughly 
awake  and  alive  to  trade. 

Santiago  has  a  veiy  fine  avenue  for  riding  or  prome- 
nading. It  is  three  miles  long  and  six  hundred  feet 
wide.  Through  the  very  centre  of  the  avenue  is  a 
wide  walk,  bordered  with  several  rows  of  poplar  trees, 
and  with  statues  of  famous  men  dotting  it  here  and 
there.  On  each  side  of  the  central  promenade  is  a. 
driveway  one  hundred  feet  wide. 

The  poplar  trees,  which  are  seen  throughout  Santiago, 
and  particularly  in  this  avenue,  did  not  originally  grow 
in  Chile,  but  were  brought  from  the  other  side  of  the 


DPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


281 


ire,  moreover,  lialf 
1  flirt!  is  live  cents. 
3  to  say,  a  woman, 
nen.  They  uiider- 
vei-e  away  fighting 
L'e. 

blue  suit,  a  wide- 
wliite  apron  with 
x)ve  lier  stand,  on 
ning  lier  luneheon, 
)r  ottice  witli  much 
s. 

.     Gentlemen  and 
i,  tile   band  plays, 
)ting  goods, 
if  is  the  time  wlien 

women  trip  over 
d  to  buy  beautiful 
lops,  which  in  the 
re  now  thoroughly 

•  riding  or  prome- 
six  hundred  feet 
the  avenue  is  a 
s  of  poplar  trees, 
tting  it  here  and 
'.  promenade  is  a  . 

3Ughout  Santiago, 
t  originally  grow 
other  side  of  the 


Andes.  With  them  came,  it  is  said,  that  strange  disease, 
the  goiter,  in  which  the  glands  of  the  neck  are  very 
much  swollen.  Hefore  the  coming  of  the  poi)lar,  the 
goiter  had  never  been  known  in  Chile. 

A  drive  along  this  famous  avenue  is  always  pleasant. 
Many  fine  residences  line  it  on  either  hand.  Among 
the  different  styles  of  houses  along  the  way,  one  singles 
out  gilded  i)alaccs,  turrctcd  Turkish  residences,  and 
gloomy  Tudor  buildings,  that  often  look  out  of  place  in 
a  land  of  frequent  earthquakes.  One  can  so  easily  im- 
agine all  those  splendid  piles  falling  and  becoming  a 
heap  of  magnificence.  The  low,  broad  Spanish  house 
looks  more  enduring,  and  therefore  more  suitable. 

At  one  end  of  tiie  avenue  is  Santa  Lucia.  This  is  a 
great  rock,  which  was  once  unutterably  brown,  barren, 
and  unornamental.  A  wealthy  citizen  of  Santiago 
spent  liis  private  fortune  in  improving  it,  and  now  it  is 
the  most  beautiful  featuie  of  the  prospect. 

It  is  laid  out  with  gardens  and  walks,  which  wind  up 
to  the  summit.  Here  and  there  balconies  and  summer 
houses  are  erected,  commanding  a  pretty  outlook  ;  while 
at  the  summit  is  a  wide  promenade  and  a  small  theatre 
and  chapel.  From  this  hilltoi),  the  view  of  the  lighted 
city  by  night  is  one  to  be  long  remembered. 

The  Horticultural  and  Zoological  Gardens  are  situated 
at  the  other  end  of  the  drive.  Chile  brought  an  ele- 
phant and  two  lions  from  Peru,  to  add  to  her  zoological 
collection.  Rut  the  animals  could  not  bear  the  change 
to  a  colder  climate,  and  died. 

Two  hundred  years  ago,  pirates  thronged  the  liigh 
seas,  and  frequent  fights  took  place  in  the  Spanish  main 


I 


*    * 
I    i 


282 


THE  WORLD   AND   ITS    PEOPLE. 


i  t 


1  I 


M    1 


between  the  high-decked  galleons  from  Spain  and  mys- 
terions  black  crafts  which  displayed  a  skull  and  cross- 
bones  on  their  Hags.  In  those  days  it  used  to  be  safest 
to  build  the  capital  city  inland.  That  necessitated  a 
secaport  city  for  the  capital,  and  so  it  came  to  pass  that 
cities  were  built  in  pairs  throughout  South  America. 
Examples  of  this  are  La  Guayra  and  Bogata,  Callao  and 
Lima,  Valparaiso  and  Santiago. 

Valparaiso  resembles  the  city  of  Hahia  in  hc'mg  a  two 
storied  town,  one  story  being  on  the  hills  and  the  other 
on  the  narrow  strip  of  seashore  at  their  base. 

The  harbor  is  large  and  deep,  but  is  opened  so  widely 
towards  the  north  that  for  two  months  of  the  year  it  is 
quite  unsafe.  If  a  breakwater  could  be  built  across  the 
mouth  of  the  bay,  it  would  render  it  one  of  the  most 
secure  harbors  on  the  Pacific  coast.  But  such  an  under- 
taking is  impossible,  as  the  water  is  over  six  hundred 
feet  deep. 

Within  the  sheltering  ciirve  of  the  hills,  on  the  clear, 
blue  waters  of  the  Pacific,  ships  of  every  great  nation, 
except  the  United  States,  float  serenely  at  their  anchors. 
The  lighters  and  small  boats  of  the  harbor  are  very 
busy  helloing  load  and  unload  the  larger  craft.  The 
wharves  are  fine,  and  the  warehouses  are  of  stone  and 
roughly  decorated. 

A  dark  range  of  mountains  follows  closely  the  cres- 
cent outline  of  the  bay.  Many  spurs,  jutting  from  the 
range  toward  the  bay,  have  their  sides  and  summits 
thickly  crowded  with  houses.  The  beach  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  is,  in  places,  so  narrow  that  there  is  room  for 
but  one  street.     In  other  places  the  hills  recede,  leav- 


^ftwwa^. 


.S,S'""&,S«S. 


[OPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


283 


oni  Spain  and  mys- 
a  skull  and  cross- 
it  used  to  be  safest 
rhat  necessitated  a 
,  came  to  pass  that 
ut  South  America. 
Bogata,  Callao  and 

5ahia  in  being  a  two 
hills  and  the  other 

leir  base. 

is  opened  so  widely 

^hs  of  the  year  it  is 

I  be  built  across  the 
it  one  of  the  most 
But  such  an  under- 

s  over  six  hundred 

e  hills,  on  the  clear, 
every  great  nation, 

ely  at  their  anchors. 

lie  harbor  are  very 
larger  craft.     The 

!S  are  of  stone  and 

vvs  closely  the  cres- 
rs,  jutting  from  the 
sides  and  summits 
beach  at  the  foot  of 
t  there  is  room  for 
e  hills  recede,  leav- 


ing space  for  tlu'oe  or  four  streets.     Tliis  is,  of  course, 
the  commercial  part  of  the  town. 

The  homes  of  tlie  people  are  on  the  liills,  and  are 
reached  by  steam  elevators,  by  stairways  cut  in  the  solid 
rock,  and  by  streets  so  stee[)  and  winding  that  one  can 


THE    PLAZA    OF    VALPARAISO. 


well  believe  the  tradition  which  says  that  in  laying  them 
out,  the  goat  pathways  weie  followed. 

One  reaches  the  summits  with  panting  breath,  and 
in  descending  from  them,  an  alpenstock  seems  neces- 
sary. When  the  wind  IJows,  pedestrians  cling  to  the 
rocky  sides  of  the  way.  Three  horses  are  necessary  to 
draw  a  carriage  into  the  upper  town. 

The  houses  upon  three  of  the  hills  are  pleasant  and 
well  built.     The  poorer  classes  live  upon  the  other  hills. 


Tf 


'  I 


i 


Iff    ^: 

'il   I  I; 


284 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


Their  houses  are  mere  makeshifts,  as  tlicy  are  huilt  of 
driftwood,  oil  cans,  sardine  hoxes,  and  anything  that  the 
poor  people  ean  find  with  which  to  patch  up  a  dwelling. 

V^alparaiso,  viewed  from  the  hari)or,  is  very  pictur- 
esque. The  houses  appear  to  be  perched  so  insecurely 
upon  the  hills  that  a  slight  shock  might  throw  them  over. 
By  moonlight  or  by  electric  light,  the  city  is  enchanting. 
The  patches  of  light  and  shade  are  arranged  fantasti- 
cally, and  the  lights  of  the  vessels  near  the  mouth  of 
the  harbor  rise  and  fall  with  the  motion  of  the  dark 
water. 

You  would  feel  quite  at  home  in  the  city  of  Valpa- 
raiso, as  English  is  spoken  by  nearly  every  one.  Eng- 
lish merchants,  booksellers,  doctors,  and  grocers  fill  the 
city.  There  are  several  P^nglish  newsi)apers.  In  fact, 
Valparaiso  is,  what  the  whole  state  of  Chile  is,  an  Eng- 
lish colony. 

The  native  of  Chile  is  very  proud  of  the  leading 
place  which  his  country  holds  among  the  other  states  of 
South  America.  He  thinks  the  United  States  the  only 
nation  to  compare  with  his.  If  you  should  tell  him 
that  it  is  the  English  who  make  Chile  an  enterprising 
nation,  he  would  give  you  a  terrible  look  out  of  his 
haughty,  Spanish  eyes,  and  perhaps  draw  that  murder- 
ous Chilean  knife,  that  he  is  only  too  ready  to  introduce 
into  conversation  on  the  slightest  pretext. 

But  it  is  only  the  truth  that  you  have  spoken.  The 
Chilean  is  incapable  of  any  sustained  effort,  and  the 
persevering  industry  that  has  brought  the  country  to 
her  present  stand  among  the  nations,  has  come  from  the 
foreign   elements   of    the    English   and   the   Germans. 


hi 


■s^SBWSB?^  '" 


OPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


:i85 


.s  they  are  built  of 
(I  anything  that  the 
)at(h  up  a  (hvelliiig. 
l)or,  is  very  pictur- 
jrohcd  so  insecurely 
;ht  throw  them  over, 
e  city  is  enchanting. 
i  arranged  fantasti- 
near  the  mouth  of 
motion  of  the  dark 

1  the  city  of  Valpa- 
ly  every  one.  Kng- 
and  grocers  (ill  the 
!\vsi)apers.  In  fact, 
if  Chile  is,  an  Eng- 

)ud  of  the  leading 
y  the  other  states  of 
ited  States  the  only 
5U  should  tell  him 
hile  an  enterprising 
)le  look  out  of  his 

diaw  that  murder- 
)  ready  to  introduce 
etext. 

have  spoken.  The 
ned  effort,  and  the 
ght  the  country  to 
,  has  come  from  the 

and   the   Germans. 


Everywliere,  whetlier  as  sheep  growers,  owners  of  mines, 
or  managei-s  of  large  estates  in  the  south,  or  as  mer- 
chants and  professional  men  in  the  cities,  they  are  the 
leaders,  and  tiie  ones  wlio  are  moulding  the  nation. 

Tlie  people  of  ("liilc  are  boastful  and  careless.  Their 
shops  are  in  utter  confusion,  and,  in  the  large  and  valu- 
able public  library,  (he  books  are  placed  on  the  shelves 
with  no  attemi)t  at  classilication. 

They  are  very  cruel  by  nature.  They  are  most  deadly 
foes  on  the  battlefield ;  but  their  extreme  cruelty  is 
most  commonly  seen  in  their  treatment  of  their  horses. 
A  hoi-se  is  very  cheap,  it  is  true,  but  even  that  does  not 
excuse  his  master  for  driving  him  until  he  drops  dead. 

Although  the  climate  of  Chile  is  like  that  of  Wash- 
ington, with  many  bleak  and  chilly  days,  a  fire  is  never 
lighted  in  the  homes  of  the  people.  They  think  it 
unhealthy.  They  go  about  thickly  mulHed  in  robes  and 
overcoats,  and,  in  most  of  the  rooms,  there  are  kept  large 
foot  warmers  of  wool  and  silk,  into  which  the  ladies  slip 
their  feet  when  seatett. 

The  Chileans  have  blue  noses  and  chatterinjr  teeth 
through  several  months  of  the  year,  but  they  seem  to 
enjoy  it.  If  they  enter  the  parlor  of  a  European,  and 
find  a  blazing  fire,  they  will  leave  the  door  open  and 
create  a  draught  in  which  they  can  sit  and  shiver. 

Leaving  now  the  agricultural  and  thickly  settled 
portion  of  Chile,  we  enter  the  third  region.  Here  the 
central  valley  is  broken  up  into  many  lakes  and  bays. 
Fish  are  consequently  plentiful,  and  many  forests  of 
fine  timber  skirt  the  edges  of  the  water  and  the  foot  of 
the  hills.     There  is,  besides,  an  abundance  of  coal. 


lli 


1 


I 


>t*^ :  1' 


k 


286 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


'J'lio  isliuuls  (if  lUf  coiist  lire  as  yet  niiexplorod,  Imt 
ilmy  aro  iH-lit-vt-d  to  lie  (if  givat  wcaltli.  Seals  timing 
the  shore,  and  the  seal  lisliing  is  beginning  to  bo  prolit- 

able. 

The  Strait  of  Magellan  is  one  of  the  most  dreary  and 
desolate  phieos  on  the  faee  of  the  earth.  Lofty,  snow- 
covered  mountains  tower  on  all  sides  of  the  strait. 
Sonietinies  tlit;  glaciers  and  snowdrifts  ran  be  plaiidy 
seen  upon  their  sides;  and  then,  again,  dark  clouds 
and  mists  hide  them  completely  from  sight.  Sea  cap- 
tains dread  the  passage  of  this  strait  exceedingly,  on 
aee(mnt  of  its  many  cross  currents  and  fretpient  storms. 

There  are  one  or  two  objects  which  show  tu  the  pas.s- 
ing  vessel  that  man  has  been  here  before.  One  is  the 
post  box.  That  is  a  tin  box,  lixed  at  a  well  known  point 
of  the  northern  coast,  where  letters,  books,  and  papers, 
which  have  been  read  by  the  crew  of  .one  ship,  are  left 
for  those  of  another.  Each  passing  .ship  stoiis  to  leave 
mail  for  others  and  to  get  its  own.  Then,  again,  one 
sees  a  tree  covered  with  wooden  signs  bearing  the  names 
of  the  vessels  that  have  passed  by. 

The  Indians  who  live  in  Tierra  del  Fuego  are 
among  the  lowest  people  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 
They  are  repulsively  ugly  and  have  very  little  intelli- 
gence. Although  their  climate  is  exceedingly  cold  all 
the  year  round,  they  have  very  scanty  clothing.  They 
wear  simply  a  blanket  of  otter  skin,  and  their  boots 
and  leggings  are  made  of  the  same  material.  They  row 
out  in  their  canoes  to  passing  vessels,  to  trade  skins  for 
whiskey  and  glass  triidiets. 

The  good  bishop  of  the  Falkland  Islands  near  by  has 


^^SBSi^W?'^^  .   — — - 


I 


EOPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


287 


yet  \iii(!xi)l()nHl,  Imt 
■iiltli.  Si'iils  tlii'img 
j^iiiuiiig  ti)  bo  prolit- 

tlie  most  dreary  and 
earth.  Lofty,  snow- 
si<U'8  of  the  strait, 
rifts  can  be  phviidy 

af^ain,  dark  idouds 
oni  sight.  Sea  cap- 
rait  exceedingly,  on 
ind  fretpient  storms. 
I'll  show  tu  the  pass- 
before.  (.)ne  is  the 
t  a  well  known  point 
i,  books,  and  papers, 

of  .one  ship,  are  left 
;  ship  stops  to  leave 
II.  Then,  again,  one 
lis  bearing  the  names 

n-ra  del  Fnego  are 
!  face  of  the  globe, 
ve  very  little  intelli- 
exceedingly  cold  all 
mty  clothing.  They 
kin,  and  their  boots 
material.  They  row 
ds,  to  trade  skins  for 

I  Islands  near  by  has 


made  some  attempt   to  civilize  thcMn,  ])nt  he  has  been 
able  to  accomplish  very  little. 

IMinta  Arenas,  the  southernmost  town  in  the  world, 
was  established  as  a  penal  station.  Jt  is  a  cold,  dreary, 
stormy  place,  from  which  exi)editions  for  hunting  the 
ostrich  set  forth,  and  where  farmers  of  the  sheep  plan- 
tations buy  their  scanty  stores. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


TKUU    AND    UOLIVIA. 


Peru  and  Bolivia  are  two  of  the  richest  nations  on 
the  face  of  the  earth,  and  yet  to-day  they  are  bankrupt. 
Peru  owes  millions  of  dollars  that  she  will  never  pay, 
because  she  cainiot  lay  hands  on  her  wealth.  It  is 
locked  fast  in  the  hills,  and  needs  the  steel  magnets  of 
railroads  to  draw  the  treasures  of  gold  and  silver  from 
their  hiding  places. 

Hundreds  of  years  ago,  nearly  all  the  country  west  of 
the  Andes  was  ruled  by  a  royal  family,  known  as  the 
Incas.  They  were  a  very  superior  race  of  Indians,  of 
remarkable  energy  and  executive  ability.  At  their 
command,  and  by  their  directions,  mines  were  worked, 
great  highways  were  built,  rich  and  magnificent  temples 
were  erected  to  their  gods,  and  costly  palaces  were  built 
for  themselves.  All  this  was  done  with  marvellous  skill, 
and  with  a  display  of  riclies  such  as  the  world  will 
never  see  again. 


*;^<-'i-a4(^»:5*-i 


!     >, 


J'i 


II. !,  ; 


2HH 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 


Thoy  wiTc  11  pciU't'fiil,  iiitcllijjft'iit  met',  and  tlit'ir  rulo 
WUH  HO  t'xci'lh'iit  tliiit  it  proiiiiHt'd  to  Ih^  {'ii(Iiiiiiij^.  Hut 
suddenly  tlii-rt;  Itiust  into  tlu-ir  |i('iici'l"iil  viiUcys  a  liiind 
of  jfiL'ody,  l»looiUliiisty  iiieii,  who  Hiiw,  with  stiullod 
eyes,  tlio  jjfreat  wealth  of  tlu!  Iiieas,  uiid  determined  to 
possess  it  for  theiuselvos. 

Tiieii  came  a  tenihle  time  of  roblxMy  and  murder. 
No  one  can  estimate  the  wealth  tliat  I'izarro  and  his 
band  found  in  I'eru  alone.  It  is  said  that  ho  took 
ninety  million  dollars  worth  of  silver  and  j,'old  just 
from  the  temi)les.  One  of  his  lieutenants  asked  to  have 
the  silver  luiils  in  a  certain  tt'mi»le  they  were  pluuder- 
iiij,'.  Ills  retiuest  was  j^ranted,  and  he  reeeived  several 
hundred  thousand  dollars  worth  of  silver. 

The  ruling  Inea  was  eaptured,  aiul  I'izarro  told  the 
Indians  they  mij>ht  ransom  him,  if  tlu^y  would  till  a 
large  room  with  gold.  The  faithful  subjects  did  so; 
but  the  faithless  Spaniard  took  their  gold  and  killed 
their  king. 

The  story  of  this  period  in  the  history  of  Peru  and 
Tiolivia  is  botli  sad  and  terrible.  I'eru  was  subject  to 
Si)ain  for  nearly  three  hundred  years.  Then,  in  the 
fii-st  quarter  of  the  present  century,  she,  with  the  other 
Spanisli  colonies  in  South  America,  became  independent. 

When  the  boundaries  of  the  new  nations  were  settled, 
General  Bolivar,  the  George  Washington  of  these  colo- 
nies, founded  a  new  state,  which  was  named  Bolivia  in 
his  honor.  That  this  new  state  might  have  at  least  a 
small  piece  of  the  seacoast,  Chile  gave  up  a  little  of  her 
territory  to  Bolivia. 

It  seemed  a  Avorthless  bit  of  desert  land  at  the  time, 


] 


PEOPLE. 

t  race,  and  their  rulc^ 
o  1)0  eiidiiiiiij^.  Hut 
lU'i'fiil  viillcys  a  1)1111(1 
•  saw,  with  starlK'd 
,H,  uiid  dt'teniiiiKnl  to 

ntlduMy  and  murder, 
that  I'i/.arro  and  his 
i.s  said  that  ho  took 
silver  and  gold  just 
tenants  asked  to  have 
[i  they  were  plunder- 
.1  ho  ruceivod  several 
'  silver. 

and  IMzarro  told  the 

if  they  would  till  a 

liful  suhjects  did  so ; 

;lieir  gold  and  killed 

history  of  Peru  and 
I'eru  was  subject  to 
years.  Then,  in  the 
Y,  she,  with  the  other 
,  became  independent. 
V  nations  were  settled, 
lington  of  these  colo- 
ivas  named  Bolivia  in 
might  have  at  least  a 
gave  up  a  little  of  lier 

ert  land  at  the  time, 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


28U 


hut  sixty  years  afterward  vast  deposits  of  nitrates,  or 
milts,  of  great  eonunereial  value  were  discovered,  'riion 
Chile  re[»ented  her  <,Mft. 

In  ordt'r  In  get  i»ack  that  territory,  she  niailc  war  on 
Bolivia.  Bolivia  called  to  i'eru  for  aid.  I'eru  responded, 
and  for  several  years  war  was  waged  between  Chile  on 
one  side,  and  Peru  and  Bolivia  on  the  otiior. 

The  Chileans  were  terriltle  foes.  They  gave  no 
(luartor  and  took  no  jirisoners;  hut  cut  tho  throats  of 
the  wounded,  after  the  battle,  with  tho  siiort,  sharp 
knives  that  were  always  at  their  sides. 

The  horror  excited  in  tin?  minds  of  the  Peruvian  and 
Bolivian  soldiers  by  such  ferocious  deeds,  led  more  than 
anything  else  to  their  dcd'eat.  For  they  weie  defeati-d 
at  last,  and  Chile  demanded  that  the  coast  of  Bolivia, 
and  all  tho  coast  of  Peru  containing  nitrate  deposits, 
should  be  given  to  her.  She  also  demanded  the  grnino 
islands  olY  tho  coast  of  Poiu. 

This  was  outrageous.  Guano  had  been  exported  as  a 
fertilizer  from  Peru  to  the  Old  World  for  many  years. 
On  the  income  derived  from  this  product,  the  Peruvians 
had  boon  enabled  to  live  for  generi+tions  in  perfect  idle- 
ness and  luxury. 

If  tho  guano  and  the  nitrates  were  taken,  all  their 
means  of  support  woidd  be  gone.  Chile  was  robbing 
Peru  and  Bolivia  of  their  ready  money.  This  must  not 
he,  and  both  countries  cried  out  against  tho  national 
robbery.  But  they  were  beaten.  The  Chilean  was 
within  their  gates ;  his  knife  was  at  their  throats,  and, 
with  a  despairing  glance  and  cry  for  help  to  the  indif- 
ferent and  powerful  nations  looking  on,  they  yielded. 


290 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


And  SO  it  comt's  to  pass  that  Peru  is  baiikrupt. 
First,  she  h)st  the  wealth  of  the  Incus;  then,  when  the 
guano  was  discovered,  she  felt  so  confident  of  a  large 
assured  incdnie,  tliat,  instead  of  wisely  saving  the 
money  from  this  source,  she  most  recklessly  spent  it 
all,  and  more,  too.  Lastly,  the  deposits  of  nitrates  were 
discovered ;  and  then  came  war  and  the  loss  of  every- 
thing. Peru  to-day  is  overwhelmed.  She  sits  in  the 
midst  of  pillaged  cities  and  ruined  churches,  helpless 
and  hopeless. 

If  Peru  were  a  young  and  vigorous  nation,  she  might 
brace  herself  to  meet  her  present  difliculties;  but  she 
is  old,  with  none  of  the  free  and  conlident  assurance  of 
a  newborn  country.  Her  people  are  luxurious  and 
nnable  to  adapt  themselves  to  their  present  condition. 
What  Peru  now  needs  is  new  capital  and  new  energy. 
Bolivia  is  better  off  than  Peru;  for  it  is  a  young  nation, 
and  has  no  very  large  debt. 

By  a  recent  contract,  an  English  company  is  to  com- 
plete the  railroads  which  are  unfinished,  to  build  new 
railroads,  to  settle  certain  sections  of  the  country,  and 
to  free  Peru  from  her  enormous  debt.  In  return  for 
this,  the  company  is  to  receive  the  products  of  the  mines 
to  which  the  railroads  are  extended  for  a  period  of  sixty- 
six  years. 

Yon  may  not  think  this  a  good  bargain  for  the 
English  company;  but  it  is  likely  to  be  an  excellent 
oiae.  When  once  the  railroads  reach  the  mountains, 
the  mines  will  be  opened  and  floods  of  silver  and  gold 
will  come  pouring  into  their  treasury. 

But  now  let  us  study  the  Peru  of  to-day.     It  includes 


[OPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


291 


Peru  is  baiikrupt. 
cas  ;  then,  when  the 
jonCulcnt  of  a  huge 
wisely  saving  the 
recklessly  spent  it 
)sits  of  nitrates  were 
il  the  loss  of  every- 
d.  She  sits  in  the 
1  ehurehes,  helpless 

us  nation,  she  might 
difliculties ;  but  she 
infulent  assurance  of 
are  luxurious  and 
ir  present  condition, 
tal  and  new  energy, 
it  is  a  young  nation, 

company  is  to  com- 
lished,  to  build  new 
of  the  country,  and 
lebt.  In  return  for 
)roducts  of  the  mines 
for  a  period  of  sixty- 

lod  bargain  for  the 
'  to  be  an  excellent 
3ach  the  mountains, 
is  of  silver  and  gold 

E  to-day.     It  uicludes 


•i 


throe  regions,  —  the  barren  lowlands  of  the  coast,  the 
mountains,  and,  beyond  tliein,  tlie  table-lands  where  the 
U[)[)er  streams  of  the  Amazon  rise. 

Tlie  lowhmds  of  the  coast  consist  almost  entirely  of 
a  barren,  reddish  brown  soil.  Here  and  there  by  the 
shores  of  some  stream  there  is  a  patcli  of  green ;  but 
nearly  all  the  land  which  is  used  for  agriculture  nmst 
be  irrigated. 

Between  the  fertile  regions  stretch  sandy  deserts,  fre- 
quently seventy  miles  in  width.  The  sweeping  winds 
wliirl  up  sand  into  the  form  of  crescents  at  irregular 
distances  over  the  desert.  The  crescents  are  twenty 
feet  high,  and  are  constantly  shifting  their  positions  as 
the  wind  changes. 

Sometimes  the  peoj)le  in  the  villages  bordering  on 
the  deserts  hear  distant  music,  strange  and  monotonous. 
It  is  the  ceaseless  sound  that  the  particles  of  sand  in 
constant  motion  make  as  they  strike  one  against  another. 

The  streams  that  water  the  valleys  of  tlie  coast  are  of 
two  kinds,  temporary  and  permanent.  The  temporary 
streams  come  from  the  Cordilleras,  or  coast  mountains, 
and  the  permanent  streams  from  the  Andes.  Hoth  are 
fed  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  on  the  sunnnits  of  the 
moiuitains. 

The  Andes  arc  covered  with  snow  all  the  year  round, 
and  so  their  streams  are  always  full.  The  Cordilleras 
are  lower  mountains  than  the  Andes.  Their  peaks  do 
not  reach  into  tlie  region  of  eternal  snow,  and  so,  in  the 
dry  season,  the  streams  flowing  from  the  Cordilleras  dis- 
jvppear. 

It  scarcely  ever  rains   in   this   region.      It  drizzles 


292 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


1 1 1 :  i 


instead.  The  rainy  season,  so  called,  lasts  from  Juno  to 
Soptendx'r,  and  during  that  time  the  sun  is  seldom  seen. 
The  days  are  damp  and  chilly,  and  the  nights  misty  and 
drizzly.  The  rain  that  falls  is  really  more  like  a  dew, 
but  a  dew  so  heavy  that  the  next  morning  the  streets 
are  muddy. 

You  remember  that,  in  the  chapter  on  Chile,  it  was 
said  that  the  Spanish  cities  were  ai)t  to  be  built  in  pairs 
—  the  capital  being  situated  inland  for  safety,  anil  a 
smaller  city  being  built  on  the  coast  to  serve  as  its  port. 
Lima,  the  ca[)ital  of  Peru,  and  Callao,  its  port,  have 
been  built  in  this  way. 

Callao  is  a  discouraged  city.  Since  the  war  its  com- 
merce and  prosperity  have  flown  to  other  places.  The 
government  of  Peru  has  sold  the  harbor  to  a  French 
company,  who  are  making  money  by  charging  enormous 
dues  on  all  vessels  entering  the  liarlwr.-  In  consequence 
of  this,  very  few  vessels  come  to  Callao  now.  Where 
once  a  hundred  ships  rode  at  anchor,  now  there  are 
scarcely  a  dozen.  Very  little  business  is  transacted 
on  the  wharves  or  near  the  empty  warehouses.  It 
is  hard  times  indeed  for  Callao. 

There  is  a  curious  phenomenon  connected  with  this 
harbor.  Just  before  entering  port,  sailors  are  accus- 
tomed to  make  a  special  effort  to  polish  up  their  vessels 
to  an  unusual  degree  of  whiteness.  Then,  with  pride 
in  their  hearts  for  their  beautiful  ship,  they  enter  port. 

The  next  morning  after  a  ship  has  anchored  in  Callao 
Harbor,  the  sailoi-s  are  amazed  to  find  their  spotless  ship 
daubed  from  stem  to  stern,  outside  and  inside,  with  a 
brown  film.     If  this  is  not  scraped  off  immediately,  it 


EOPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS, 


Mt'O 


il,  liisls  from  Juno  to 
J  sun  is  sokloni  seen, 
the  nights  misty  iind 
ily  more  like  a  dew, 
morning  the  streets 

ter  on  Chile,  it  was 
t  to  he  huilt  in  pairs 
d  for  safety,  and  a 
.  to  serve  as  its  port, 
allao,  its  port,  have 

ice  the  war  its  com- 
)  other  places.  The 
harbor  to  a  French 
y  charging  enormous 
jor.-  In  consequence 
L^allao  now.  Where 
chor,  now  there  are 
isiness  is  transacted 
[)ty  warehouses.      It 

connected  with  this 
t,  sailors  are  accus- 
olish  up  their  vessels 
s.  Then,  with  pride 
diip,  they  enter  port. 
IS  anchored  in  Callao 
nd  their  spotless  ship 
[e  and  inside^  with  a 
d  off  immediately,  it 


■ 

I 


3 


clings  to  the  woodwork  so  tenaciously  that  it  can  with 
ditliculty  he  removed. 

Tliis  strange  accident,  which  befalls  every  sliip  enter- 
ing the  harboi',  is  known  as  ^  the  (.'allao  paintei." 
Who,  or  what  is  it?  People  used  to  believe  that  be- 
neath the  sea  was  an  active  volcano  that  threw  up  ashes 
upon  the  vessels.  Hut  now  it  is  known  that  the  brown 
film  is  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  a  gas  which  is  given  off 
from  springs  beneath  the  waters. 

Callao  contains  nothing  that  is  esi)ecially  interesting; 
so  we  will  hasten  to  take  the  train,  which,  in  half  an 
hour's  time,  brings  us  to  Lima. 

Do  you  know,  my  reader,  I  think  you  could  describe 
this  city  in  many  points  quite  as  well  cas  I  couhl.  From 
what  you  have  read  before  of  Spanish  cities,  you  would 
know  that  in  the  centre  of  Lima  is  a  large  square,  or 
plaza,  and  that  about  it  are  situate<l  the  chief  public 
buildings,  —  the  cathedral,  the  bishop's  palace,  the  gov- 
ernment house,  and  the  principal  shops.  You  would 
know  that  the  streets  aie  narrow  and  ])aved  with  peb- 
bles, and  that  they  are  bounded  on  each  side  by  low 
houses  with  Hat  roofs. 

Now  let  me  add  the  few  touches  that  will  change 
this  general  i)hotograph  of  any  Spanish  city  into  the 
special  photograph  of  the  Spanish  city  of  Lima. 

The  plants  and  trees  surrounding  the  bronze  fountain 
in  the  centre  of  the  plaza  ai'e  somewhat  withered  and 
faded.  They  seem  to  \te  continually  thirsting  for  a 
drink  of  fresh  water.  The  many  little  set  paths  of  the 
plaza  are  neatly  jmved  with  pebbles. 

That  low,  broad,  green  and  white  building,  occupying 


tr 


r.    ? 


2iU 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


•a  4  ' 


5 

.n 

1, 

If 


iti 


one  whole  side  of  the  i)liiza,  is  the  Cumi  Vert,  or  the 
green  castle.  It  is  tlie  place  Avliere  the  Spanish  gover- 
nors used  to  live  in  the  days  when  Pern  was  a  colonj-. 

The  cathedral  is  a  patcliwork  l)nildiMg.  Tlie  lower 
half  is  of  niarhle  yellowed  with  age,  and  the  nii[)er  lialf 
is  of  brick  and  stucco.  The  stucco  is  jjaiiited  to  rep- 
resent marble  so  skilfully  that  tlie  careless  observer 
would  never  guess  the  diflerenee.  Tlu*  cathedral  is 
laised  six  feiit  from  the  ground  on  a  marble  platform, 
and,  with  its  ^loorish  towers  and  carved  front,  is  a  very 
handsome  building. 

Within,  the  decoiations  are  in  white  and  gold,  and 
there  are  many  little  side  chapels  and  shrines.  The 
bones  of  Pizario,  who  was  nuirdered  in  the  C'asa  Vert, 
can  be  seen  in  the  crypt. 

The  roofs  of  the  churches  and  houses  in  Lima  are 
covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  nuid.  This  prevents  the 
damimess  frtmi  penetrating  the  building.  As  it  never 
rains  in  Lima,  the  eartlicn  roof  answers  very  well.  IJut 
imagine  the  effect  of  a  hard  shower!  The  startled 
people  of  Lima  would  see  their  mud  roofs  and  stucco 
walls  cruml)ling  before  their  eyes,  and  perha[)S  waslied 
into  the  swift  Rimac   lliver,  which  runs  through  the 

city. 

Besides  the  flat  roofs  which  serve  as  piazzas  or 
twilight  promenades,  the  houses  of  Lima  have  oblong 
balconies  inclosed  with  glass.  These  balconies  project 
over  the  street  at  such  i-egular  distance's  that  they 
furnish  the  sidewalk  with  an  almost  continuous  roof, 
whidi  nnist  be  very  agreeabh;. 

Everywhere  in  Lima  are  seen  the  marks  of  the  Club 


BWrK 


■*^>^mAm^'^^'fi 


PEOPLE, 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


2!tr) 


lie  Cii'^a  Vert,  cir  the 
0  the  Spiuiisli  gover- 
I'erii  was  ii  colony, 
huihliiig.  Tlie  lower 
e,  iuul  till!  iip[)er  half 
^co  is  painted  to  rep- 
Ihe  careless  observer 
^  The  cathedral  is 
m  a  marble  platform, 
carved  front,  is  a  very 

white  and  gold,  and 
Is  and  shrines.  Tlie 
red  in  the  C'asa  Vert, 

[  honses  in  Lima  are 
1.  .This  prevents  the 
nilding.  As  it  never 
swers  very  well.  But 
lower!  Tlie  startled 
mud  roofs  and  stucco 
,  and  peiha[)S  washed 
ich  runs  through  the 

serve  as  piazzas  or 
of  Lima  have  oblong 
'hese  balconies  project 
I'  distanc(!s  that  they 
most  continuous  roof, 

the  marks  of  the  Chil- 


:;-^-#>:.:,:,##^|^^^^ 


STREET    SCENE    IN  LIMA. 


\  If  .;•  i, 


290 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


eaii  cannon  balls.  Even  the  eatliedml  'tself  is  badly 
marred.  As  for  Casa  Vert,  that  was  regularly  bom- 
barded. 

Most  of  the  decorations  of  the  streets  and  plaza  were 
carried  away  by  the  Chileans.  Iin»nze  and  marble  foun- 
tains and  statues,  street  lamps,  trei's  and  shrubs,  lions 
froiii  the  zoi>l(i<fieal  jfardens,  even  silver  altar  railings 
from  the  ehurches  <lisappeared.  What  they  could  not 
take  away  they  destroyed. 

Since  the  war,  the  wealthy  cla.ss  have  been  living  on 
money  obtained  by  pawning  jewels,  laces,  and  bric-^- 
brac. 

If  we  should  stand  on  one  of  the  bridges  acro.ss  the 
lliniac,  and  study  the  people  about  us  for  half  an  hour, 
we  should  be  amused  and  instructed.  Within  the  many 
angles  of  the  bridge  sit  the  fruit  sellers.  'J'hey  have 
delicious  grapes,  oranges,  bananas,  and  peaches,  which 
ladies  in  black  robes  and  mantillas,  returning  from 
early  mass  in  the  cathedral,  often  stop  to  look  at. 

Who  is  this  queer  figure  approaching  us?  He  is  the 
Imker.  A  sfjuare  (canvas  pannier  full  of  bread  and 
cakes  is  slung  on  each  side  of  the  donkey,  and  bags, 
hanging  from  the  panniei',  contain  extra  supplies. 

The  woman  who  sells  the  milk  next  ai)pears.  Her 
cans  are  strapi)cd  on  each  side  of  the  saddle,  and  some- 
times ni)on  the  saddle  itself.  The  woni.an  is  often 
peiched  high  in  the  air  above  the  cans.  She  weal's  a 
broad-brimmed  Panama  hat  like  a  man's.  When  she 
approaches  a  house,  she  gives  a  shrill  call,  and  the  ser- 
vant comes  running  to  the  door. 

Perhajis,  if  we  lingered  longer,  we  might  see  other 


■1 


^•BWISSP^  '■ 


;OPLE. 

.'dial  "tself  is  badly 
wm  icgulaily  boin- 

eets  and  plaza  were 
ize  and  inarhlo  foun- 
's  and  shrubs,  lions 
silver  altar  railings 
'hat  they  could  not 

lave  been  living  on 
S  laces,  and  bric-^- 

bridges  across  the 
IS  for  half  an  hour, 
Within  the  many 
lellers.  'J'hey  have 
and  peaches,  which 
lis,  returning  from 
)p  to  look  at. 
ing  us?  He  is  the 
full   of   bread  and 

donkey,  and  bags, 
ttra  supplies, 
next  ai)pears.  Her 
e  saddle,  and  some- 
e  woman  is  often 
cans.  She  weal's  a 
man's.  When  she 
11  call,  and  the  ser- 

.'e  mififht  see  other 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


297 


curious  sights.  A  Chinaman,  bearing  baskets  of  fruit 
nicely  balanced  by  a  bamboo  rod  across  his  shoulders, 
comes  silently  along,  lilack-eyed  little  newsboys  race 
across  the  bridge,  calling  out  the  names  of  their  various 
papei-s  in  litpiid  Spanish.  Shabby  men  take  their  yiont 
on  the  bridge  and  offer  lottery  tickets  to  the  passers-by, 
murmuring  their  generous  offers  in  a  dull,  monotonous 
tone.  A  water  carrier,  always  an  amusing  sight,  rides 
slowly  by.  He  sits  so  far  back  on  his  donkey  that  it 
often  seems  as  if  he  must  fall  off.  Two  casks,  or  bar- 
rels, occupy  the  saddle. 

'J'he  flat  roofs  of  the  country  houses,  situated  in  the 
valleys  west  of  the  Andes,  are  not  used  as  piazzas,  like 
those  of  the  city  houses.  They  are  covered  with  grass, 
and  the  cows  or  the  liens  live  there  all  the  time.  The 
cow  goes  up  to  the  housetop  as  a  calf,  passes  her  life 
there,  is  killed  and  brought  down  as  fresh  meat.  The 
hens  strut  about,  lay  eggs,  cackle,  and  go  to  roost, 
just  as  if  they  were  living  on  the  humdrum  earth  like 
other  barnyard  fowls. 

Though  the  highest  part  of  the  Andes  is  in  the  state 
of  Bolivia,  yet  the  ranges  in  Peru  are  very  lofty.  The 
best  idea  of  these  mountains  is  gained  by  going  over 
the  Oroya  railroad,  which  now  runs  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountains.  It  is  to  l)e  extended  into  the  third  region 
of  Peru,  the  region  of  the  .sources  of  the  Amazon. 

This  Oroya  railroad  is  a  wonderful  piece  of  engineer- 
ing. The  train  zigzags  up  the  mountain  side,  some- 
times taking  sharp,  angular  turnings,  sometimes  wind- 
ing upward  in  long,  sinuous  curves.  Now,  five  sec- 
tions of  the  winding  road  are  visible  at  once ;  and  thou 


11 


if 

'I 

f.   (., 


1        i 


298 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS    PEOPLE. 


again,  it  vanishos  from  si^Hit,  and  tlu;  train  seems  to  be 
(lashing  against  an  impenotrablo  wall  of  rock. 

A  sudden  turn  is  made,  and  all  is  darkness.  We  are 
in  a  tunnel. cut  through  a  simr  of  the  rocky  wall  at  an 
immense  cost  of  time,  patience,  and  money.  TrcsiMitly 
we  enter  the  daylight  again.  One  thousand  fe(!t  helow 
is  a  section  of  the  road  over  which  we  have  come.  It  is 
so  directly  helow  that,  leaning  from  the  window,  we 
might  drop  a  stone  upon  the  track.  Now  the  cai-s  cross 
a  chasm  by  mciiiLs  of  a  slender  iron  erection  called  a 
bridge. 

The  whole  ride  is  one  long  to  be  remembered,  for  the 
mind  is  continually  aghast  at  the  great  difliculties  that 
have  been  overcome  in  the  construction  of  the  road. 

The  region  west  of  the  Andes  is  an  uid)rokon  wilder- 
ness, througli  which  run  many  large  streams  and  rivei-s. 
So  rapid  and  strong  is  the  tropical  growth  there,  that, 
if  a  path  should  be  made  in  the  wilderness,  in  two 
weeks'  time  it  would  haye  entirely  disappeared,  choked 
up  by  the  weeds  and  the  bushes.  The  only  way  to  open 
up  the  region  is  to  set  thousands  of  men  at  work  there 
for  months  at  a  time.  Then  perhaps  a  clearing  might 
be  made  and  preserved. 

The  region  would  repay  such  effort,  for  it  is  exceed- 
ingly rich  in  cinchona,  caoutchouc,  and  coca  trees,  and 
in  palms.  The  leaves  of  the  coca  tree  are  chewed  by 
the  natives.  They  produce  a  drowsy  effect,  like  opium. 
When  the  railroads  are  completed,  it  may  be  that 
these  articles  will  be  brought  down  to  the  Peruvian 
coast  and  exported. 

The  usual  way  of  going  from  Tiima  to  La  Paz,  the 


1 


^Lj. 


PEOPLE. 

the  tr>iin  .seems  to  be 

all  of  rock. 

is  (liirkiiess.     We  are 

the  rocky  wall  at  an 
(1  money.     I'resiMitly 

thousaiul  feet  helow 

wo  have  come.     It  is 

om  the  window,  we 

Now  the  caix  cross 

ron  erection  called  a 

remembered,  for  the 
3;reat  ditliculties  that 
ction  of  the  road. 
I  an  unbrokv'ii  wilder- 
e  streams  and  rivei's. 
1  growth  there,  that, 
!    wilderness,  in   two 

disappeared,  choked 
riie  only  way  to  open 
jf  men  at  work  there 
ips  a  clearing  might 

brt,  for  it  is  exceed- 
and  coca  trees,  and 
tree  are  chewed  by 

sy  effect,  like  opium. 

ed,  it   may   be   that 

wn  to  the  Peruvian 

Ama  to  La  Paz,  the 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


209 


capital  of  Bolivia,  is  to  take  the  steamer  from  Callao  to 
MolleMd(».  jNIoUeiulo  is  a  lilth;  seaport  town  which 
might  be  looked  upon  as  the  port  of  Are(iuipa.  the  sec- 
on(l  city  n  I'eni.  A  railroad  starts  from  Mollendo, 
passes  through  Arequipa,  and  terminates  on  the  western 
shore  of  Lake  Titicaca. 

The  trip  takes  the  traveler  through  deserts  covered 
with  saiul,  pumice,  and  volcanic  rock.  Jlere  and  there 
along  the  way  is  a  green  patch  of  country  that  is  un- 
speakably restful  to  eyes  weary  with  the  blazing  white- 
ness of  the  desert  sand. 

Areijuipa  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  green  and  fertile 
plain.  Its  ruined  streets  and  the  large  rents  in  the  walls 
of  many  of  the  houses  sliow  how  violent  the  eartluiuake 
shocks  have  been. 

The  people  of  South  America  have  several  names  for 
earthquakes,  each  a  little  stronger  than  the  last.  Thus 
they  can  express  with  accuracy  the  exact  intensity  of 
different  shocks.  Earthquakes  vary  from  the  merest 
tremble  to  the  yawning  of  the  earth  and  the  swallowing 
of  whole  cities.  Spanish  America  is  full  of  terrible 
stories  of  houses  destroyed  without  a  moment's  warn- 
ing, and  churches  full  of  peo        niried  in  an  instant. 

After  leaving  Arequipa,  the  xoad  begins  to  climb  the 
mountains.  Here,  as  well  as  on  the  Oroya  railroad 
from  Lima,  may  be  seen  wonderful  acliievements  of 
engineering  skill. 

Flocks  of  rough  sheep  and  llamas  appear  on  the 
plains  stretching  away  from  either  side  of  the  car.  The 
llama  is  a  curious  animal  about  as  large  as  a  yearling 
colt.     Like  the  camel,  he  can  travel  foi-  days  and  weeks 


^fT"" 


I  ll 


It  I 


i- 


^ 


<h^ 


i 


300 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


without  water.  He  is  scarcely  ever  seen  to  drink.  His 
feet  are  formed  so  as  to  cling  most  tenaciously  to  the 
rocks,  and  he  is  thus  enabled  to  [)a8s  surely  over  the 
roughest  and  most  insecure  places. 

'I'he  llama  is  (piitc  docile,  and  will  carry  one  hundred 
pounds  upon  his  hack  over  the  mountains.  If  more 
than  one  hundred  pounds  are  strapped  upon  him,  he 
lies  down,  and  refuses  to  budge  luitil  he  is  relieved  of 
the  extra  weight.  'I'lie  lliima  is  covered  with  a  warm, 
shaggy  coat  of  wool,  which  is  never  sheared  if  the  ani- 
mal is  used  as  a  beast  of  burden. 

Lake  Titicaca,  the  terminus  of  the  road,  is  reached  at 
length,  and  we  enter  Bolivia.  This  republic  may  be 
divided  into  halves.  The  western  half  is  mountainous, 
while  the  eastern  half  consists  of  high,  well  watered 
table-land. 

Eastern  Holivia  has  many  valuable  productions.  In 
which  direction  shall  they  be  sent  for  exi)ortation  ? 
Shall  they  go  northwesterly  down  the  Amazon,  and  be 
shipped  from  Peru ;  or  southeasterly  to  IJuenos  Ayres ; 
or  westerly  to  the  Pacific  coast  ? 

The  Bolivians  have  now  no  seacoast,  and  to  send  their 
products  to  the  western  coast  would  be  to  enrich  the 
Chileans,  whom  they  hate.  That  they  will  not  do; 
and,  as  the  eighteen  rapids  on  the  Madeira  effectually 
bar  the  way  to  the  northeast,  the  natural  route  to  tsike 
seems  to  Ix)  that  to  the  southeast  across  Argentine  Re- 
public. That  state  has  recently  awakened  to  the  situa- 
tion, and  has  sent  men  to  survey  the  ground  and  project 
a  railroad  from  Argentine  Republic  into  Bolivia.  . 

Western  Bolivia  contains  the  loftiest  chains  of  moun- 


w 


OPLE. 

wen  lo  drink.     His 

toiiaciously  to  tho 

ass  Huroly  over  the 

.  carry  one  hundred 
ountiiinH.  If  more 
(pi'd  upon  him,  he 
il  he  is  relieved  of 
vered  with  a  warm, 
sheared  if  the  ani- 

!  road,  is  reached  at 
is  republic  may  be 
alf  is  mountainous, 
high,  well  watered 

le  productions.  In 
it  for  exi)ortation  ? 
lie  Amazon,  and  be 
y  to  IJuenos  Ayres ; 

st,  and  to  send  their 
d  be  to  enrich  the 
they  will  not  do; 
Madeira  effectually 
tural  route  to  take 
ross  Argentine  Ile- 
ikened  to  the  situa- 
ground  and  project 
into  IJolivia.  . 
iist  chains  of  moun- 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 
■  ■  « — 


301 


.i 


tains  in  tlie  whole  Western  Ilcmispiu  re.  The  Andes 
here  spread  out  int«)  live  distint^t  liiuius,  and  one  partic- 
ular range  has  one  of  tlic  grandest  series  of  nio\intain 
peaks  on  the  globe.  First  comes  Mount  Soiata,  its 
height  of  twenty-live  thousand  feet  making  it  the  lofti- 
est mountain  in  the  New  World.  A  little  to  the  south 
rises  lllimani  I'eak  ;  and  thus  the  line  sweeps  on  until 
it  reaches  the  giant  sugar  loaf  of  I'otosi,  the  famous 
silver  mountain. 

Hetween  the  mountain  chains  are  i)arallel  valleys, 
mostly  dry  and  barren.  The  valleys  are  drained  by 
rivers  which  do  not  reach  the  sea ;  but,  instead,  lose 
themselves  in  salt  lakes  or  salt  marshes. 

Lake  Titicaca  is  the  largest  of  these  mountain  lakes. 
It  is  also  the  largest  and  highest  salt  lake  in  the  world. 
It  seems  very  wonderful  to  come  ui)on  a  large  sheet  of 
green  water  twelve  thousand  feet  above  tlu!  sea. 

Small  steamers  navigate  it,  and  run  from  port  to  port. 
The  lake  is  shallower  on  its  western  shore,  so  steamers 
cannot  be  loaded  in  the  harbor  on  this  side.  They 
anchor  at  some  distance  frcmi  land,  and  the  rude  canoes 
of  the  native  Indians  speed  back  and  forth  with  the 
cargoes. 

While  sailing  on  the  northern  half  of  Lake  Titicaca, 
we  may  lose  sight  of  land ;  but  in  the  southern  half,  the 
shore  is  always  in  sight.  And  an  odd  shore  it  is.  On 
one  side  we  pass  the  ruins  of  ancient  temples  of  the 
Incivs,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  are  mud  and  bamboo 
villages.  But  above  all,  and  always  giving  an  unutter- 
able dignity  to  the  landscape,  is  the  magnificent  range 
of  the  Andes. 


mSKi-.T-Jg-tit^l: 


802 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS  PEOPLE 


Till!  In  liiUiH  Idciiti!  till!  ;,'iir(li'n  of  lOdi'ii,  tlic  homi!  of 
Adiiiii  siiid  I'iVi',  on  III)  isliinil  in  tlu;  lakf.  'I'luiy  siiy  thai 
Father  Athun  and  Mutliur  Kve  rowed  iVoin  this  island 
to  till)  niainla'nd.  Onci;  landed,  tlit-y  walkfd  iiurthwurd 
l)i!arinj^  a  j^foldcn  staiT.  When  they  reaclu'd  a  certain 
Hpot,  tht'y  snioti!  tho  ^froiind  with  the  j,'oldi'n  stall",  and 
told  thu  awL'-stiiu'k  Indians  to  huild  tlu'ir  napilal  I'ity  in 
that  Hpot.     And  so  ('uzco  was  fonndod. 

Landinj^  on  tho  southi'in  shore  of  l^ake  Titicaoa,  wo 
8i!t  out  by  I'oacli  r)vi'r  oiie  of  this  old  Inca  roads  for  l^a 
.  Paz.  'J'his  rity  has  a  curious  situation.  Tlioro  aru  two 
valloys  opening  into  each  other.  Tho  first  is  dry  ami 
barren,  the  second  is  fertile.  Of  course  any  one  would 
expect  to  find  the  city  built  in  the  fertile  spot;  but  no, 
La  I'az  is  situated  in  the  barien  valley,  because  some 
pope,  who  did  I'ot  understand  the  geography  of  the 
region,  chose  the  lii-st  valley  in  preference  to  the  secojul. 

The  city  nestles  at  the  foot  of  an  abrupt  descent  of 
twelve  hundred  feet.  The  level  surf.ice  of  the  plateau 
of  Lake  Titicaea,  over  which  we  have  driven,  is  broken 
just  at  this  [)oint.  To  api)roach  the  edge  of  tho  plateau 
ami  look  downward  upon  the  housetops  of  a  city,  when 
you  had  not  believed  there  was  one  within  miles,  is  sur- 
prising, to  say  the  least. 

Speaking  of  housetops,  —  there  is  not  a  chimney  in 
La  Paz.  Although  the  weather  is  often  quite  cold,  the 
people  do  not  wish  to  heat  their  houses.  The  food  is 
cooked  by  outdoor  fires,  which  are  laid  against  "  wall 
and  sheltered  by  a  light  roof. 

La  Paz  is  unlike  other  Spanish  cities  in  having  but 
half  a  cathedral.     Only  one  story  is  completed,  but  that 


1 


EOPLE 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


'M\ 


lOdcii,  tli(>  lioinit  nl' 
liikf.  Tlioy  s!iy  tliiit 
I'd  from  tlii«  isliiiid 
y  walked  iiortliwiird 
y  ruiulu'd  a  certain 
lie  ^roldeii  HtalY,  and 
1  their  eajdlal  eity  in 
led. 
t'  l.ake  Titi('a(!a,  wo 

I  luca  roads  for  l^a 
ion.  TliL'io  arc  two 
I'liu  first  is  dry  and 
inrso  any  ono  would 
fertile  spot ;  but  no, 
valley,  beeause  some 
J  geography  of  tho 
srunco  to  tho  socond. 

II  abrupt  descont  of 
rfiico  of  tho  plateau 
vc  driven,  is  broken 
I  edgo  of  tho  plateau 
tops  of  a  city,  when 

within  miles,  is  sur- 

Ls  not  a  chimney  in 

)ften  quite  cold,  the 

lOUses.     The  food  is 

laid  against  •"  wall 

cities  in  having  but 
completed,  but  that 


is  H(i  iM'autifid  that  every  obnerver  regrets  thai  lack  of 
funds  have  obliged  the    iloliviaus  to  leave  it  unltnishcd. 

Wlu'lher  he  is  pausing  in  the  plaza  before  tho  cathe- 
dral, or  visiting  the  market  with  its  pih-s  of  Panama  hats 
and  ponchos,  its  fruits  and  vcgetabk's,  the  thoughts  of 
the  traveler  conlinnally  turn  toward  the  remote  golden 
age  of  tho  Ineas,  and  tho  early  days  of  tho  ecdony. 
That  seems  the  real  time,  and  these  days  of  [)()verty 
the  shadow. 

liisteu  to  this  bil  of  history  which  sounds  like  a  fairy 
talo.  "InltiGl  1m  I'alata,  the  viceroy,  rode  from  tho 
palace  to  the  cathedral  on  a  horse  every  hair  of  whoso 
mane  and  tail  was  strung  with  pearls,  whose  hoofs  were 
shod  with  shoes  of  solid  gold,  and  whose  path  was  paved 
with  ingolN  of  solid  .silver."  Isn't  that  splendor?  And 
it  only  happened  about  two  hundred  ami  thirty  years  ago. 
Truly  these  days  of  pf)verty  must  seem  very  hard  to 
poor,  unlucky  Peru  and  Bolivia,  that  still  keep  such 
proud  recolleetions  of  their  splendid  [)ast. 

We  can  only,  in  leaving,  wish  them  brighter  days  for 
tho  future. 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 

IN   ECUADOR   AND  COLOMniA. 

We  are  (mce  more  in  the  heart  of  the  Torrid  Zone. 
The  equator  passes  directly  through  Ecuador,  and,  on 
that  account,  the  state  was  given  the  Spanish  name  for 
equator. 


11 


; 

I 

\ 

I 


I  "i\    *   < 


304 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  coasts  of  Ijotli  Ecuador  and  Oolombia  arc  low 
and  sandy  .r  marshy.  Tlic  healthiest  and  most  popu- 
lous regions  are  on  the  i)lateaus  among  the  mountains. 
Even  thougii  the  blazing  sun  shines  directly  overhead, 
the  great  height  of  the  plateaus  makes  them  cool. 
Quito,  the  capital  of  Ecuador,  and  Hogota,  the  capital 
of  Colombia,  are  situated  on  these  table-lands,  and  there- 
fore have  delightful  climates. 

Guayaquil,  situated  on  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil,  is  the 
seaport  of  Quito.  'J^hcre  is  nothing  very  new  or  un- 
usual about  this  city.  The  houses  are  of  band)oo  and 
stucco  work,  chiefly  in  white  and  yellow.  The  lower 
story  of  many  of  the  houses  is  used"  as  a  store,  in  which 
excellent  articles  are  often  displayed  for  sale. 

Quito  is  one  hundred  and  lifty  miles  from  Guayaquil. 
Some  of  the  journey  can  be  made  by  train,  but  much  of 
the  way  must  be  travei-sed  on  mules.  . 

Oh,  that  mountain  trip !  If  by  any  chance  you  cease 
pitying  yourself,  you  straightway  begin  to  pity  the 
iimmal  on  which  you  ride.  He  stubbornly  pushes  on 
his  way,  wading  mountain  torrents,  stepping  cautiously 
along  by  the  side  of  precipices,  crossing  bamboo  bridges 
that  tremble  beneath  his  tread,  scrambling  through  or 
sticking  fast  in  marshes. 

The  road,  which  consists  of  an  endless  succession  of 
holes  about  one  foot  deep,  into  which  and  out  of  which 
the  poor  donkey  steps  painfully,  now  enters  a  forest,— 
a  perfect  South  American  jungle,  such  as  we  have  often 
glanced  into  before.  But  the  creepere  in  this  forest  on 
the  road  to  Quito  are  something  very  unusual.  They 
wave  from  tree  top  to  the  ground,  they  run  in  parallel 


PEOPLE, 

111(1  Oolombia  aro  low 
thit'st  iind  most  popu- 
ainoiig  the  nioiiiitains. 
lies  directly  overhead, 
LIS  makes  them  cool, 
id  Hogota,  the  capital 
tahle-laiids,  and  there- 

If  of  Guayaquil,  is  the 
liiijf  very  new  or  uii- 
Bs  are  of  bamboo  and 
I  yellow.  The  lower 
3(1  as  a  store,  in  which 
ed  for  sale, 
niles  from  Guayaquil, 
by  train,  but  much  of 
es. . 

any  chance  you  cease 
y  begin  to  pity  the 
stubbornly  pushes  on 
s,  stepping  cautiously 
»ssi ng  l)amboo  bridges 
^rambling  through  or 

endless  succession  of 
ich  and  out  of  which 
ow  enters  a  forest, — 
uch  as  we  have  often 
jpei-s  in  this  forest  on 
very  unusual*  They 
they  run  in  parallel 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


805 


lines  along  the  way,  they  braid  and  festoon  the  trees 
and  bushes  together.  Then,  here  and  there  in  the  mass 
of  green,  is  seen  a  beautiful  red  flower,  an  orciiid  perhaps, 
with  all  the  singularity  of  shape  and  delieaciy  of  color 
that  orchids  possess. 

Sometimes  the  journey  to  (^uito  is  made  by  coach. 
The  coach  is  like  the  New  England  stagecoaeli,  and  is 
drawn  by  three  pairs  of  mules.  The  native  diivers  are 
not  satisfied  unless  they  are  kept  at  a  full  run.  To 
accor.iplish  this,  the  drivers  are  continually  shouting, 
blowing  their  horns  or  bugles,  and  whipping  the  poor 
beasts. 

They  carry  two  kinds  of  whips.  There  is  a  whip  of 
ordinary  length  for  the  nearest  pair,  and  a  long-handled 
whip  for  the  middle  pair.  The  leaders  are  so  far  away 
that  they  cannot  be  reached  with  a  whip.  Instead,  they 
are  [<eppered  and  pelted  with  stones,  which  are  kept  in 
a  box  beside  the  diiver. 

If  the  coach  is  approaching  a  hill  and  the  mules  seem 
to  be  flagging,  the  driver  dismounts,  and,  miming  beside 
them,  cheers,  scolds,  and  whii)s  the  poor,  bleeding,  pant- 
ing beiists  back  into  their  former  pace. 

Quito  is  situated  in  a  long,  narrow  valley,  which  runs 
northward  from  Peru  to  Colombia.  This  valley,  which 
lies  between  two  ranges  of  the  Andes,  is  really  an  ele- 
vated plateau  two  miles  high. 

There  are  as  many  as  twenty  volcanoes  within  sight 
of  Quito.  The  peaks  of  some  resemble  cones,  while 
those  of  others  are  like  domes.  Chimborazo  and  Coto- 
paxi  are  the  most  famous  volcanoes.  Chimlwrazo  is  a 
snow-covered  dome,  with  here  and  there  a  bare  spot 


1  r 

•Si; 

1  : 

\ 

1 

\ 

/I 

i 

i- 
f 

Hi 


SW!i:r 


fin' 


s 


hi  J.    1  I* 
?!  il'  N 


806 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


on  its  sides  fiom  wliicl!  the  wind  has  s  /ept  the  snow. 
Cotopaxi  is  a  perfect  cone. 

Tlie  meadows  alH)ut  Quito  are  green  and  velvety 
enough  for  Eughind  itself.  Tiie  hedgerows  which  sep- 
arate the  fields  add  to  the  English  look  of  the  scenery. 

The  streets  are  neatly  paved  and  narrow,  with  very 
narrow  sidewalks.  'J'hey  are  swept  and  lighted  in  an 
unusual  way.  Each  house  owner  is  obliged  to  keep  the 
street  before  his  dwelling  clean,  and  to  show  a  burning 
candle  at  night.  If  he  fails  to  do  this,  he  is  fined  forty 
cents.  In  the  central  plaza,  kerosene  lamps  are  burned 
at  the  expense  of  the  city. 

The  houses  are  painted  white,  with  red  roofs.  They 
are  low,  and  have  little  balconies  projecting  over  the 
sidewalks.  Does  that  remind  you  of  any  city  we  have 
lately  visited?     Yes,  you  are  right.     It  is  Lima. 

Of  course  Quito  has  a  large  cathedral  occui)ying  one 
side  of  the  plaza.  It  is  more  (juaint  than  handsome. 
Its  dome  is  coveied  \\ith  green  tiles,  and  its  dooi-s  are 
decorated  with  carvings  and  huge  metal  bosses,  or  pro- 
jecting knobs. 

The  women  can  best  be  seen  in  the  cathed  -al  while 
morning  mass  is  being  celebrated.  Everywhere  on  the 
stone  floor  are  women,  old  and  young,  rich  and  poor, 
kneeling  in  pra;yer. 

The  young  girls  are  quite  short.  They  are  dressed  in 
red  and  blue  dresses,  black  stockings,  and  black  kid 
slippei-s  with  metal  soles.  The  older  women  are  dressed 
entirely  in  black.  They  wear  neither  gloves  nor  bon- 
nets to  church ;  but,  instead,  they  wrap  their  heads  and 
shouldei-s  in  mantillas.      These  are  often  of  very  rich 


<< 


k  ' 


u. 


EOPI.E. 

lias  s  /ept  the  snow. 

green  and  velvety 
ledgoiows  which  sep- 
ook  of  the  scenery, 
d  narrow,  with  very 
it  and  lighted  in  an 
s  obliged  to  keep  the 
d  to  show  a  burning 
this,  he  is  fined  forty 
me  lamps  are  burned 

ith  red  roofs.  They 
projecting  over  the 
of  any  city  we  have 

It  is  Lima, 
ledral  occupying  one 
lint  than  handsome. 
es,  and  its  dooi-s  are 
metal  bosses,  or  pro- 

the  cathed-al  while 

Everywhere  on  the 

3ung,  rich  and  poor, 

They  are  dressed  in 
:ings,  .and  black  kid 
3r  women  are  dressed 
ther  gloves  nor  bon- 
wrap  their  heads  and 
•e  often  of  very  rich 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


807 


lace,  handsomely  embroidered  or  trinnned  with  silk  and 
jet.  The  women  have  dark  eyes,  and  bciiutifnl  dark 
hair,  and  Jiearl}'  all  of  them  look  enchanting  in  their 
mantillas. 

A  housewife  carries  (piite  a  load.  She  has  a  prayer 
book,  a  prayer  stool  or  cushion,  aiul,  last  but  n<»t  least, 
the  house  key.  As  this  weighs  a  pound,  it  is  no  sniall 
burden. 

T!ie  dress  of  the  men  of  Quito  is  so  sombre  and  dig- 
nified as  to  be  almost  funny.  It  consists  of  a  long,  lilack 
frock  coat,  a  tall,  black  silk  hat,  black  kid  gloves,  and 
an  ornamentid  cane.  Their  model  is  the  European 
gentleman  ;  but  with  their  flashing  black  eyes,  dark, 
pointetl  l)eards,  and  heavy  cape  overcoats,  they  hardly 
seem  like  either  Englislnnen  or  Frenchmen. 

It  is  interesting  to  visit  the  market  place,  and  see  the 
display  of  grains,  vegetables,  and  fruits.  Here  are 
wheat,  barley,  maize,  beans,  potatoes,  oranges,  arid 
guavas.  The  market  men  are  Indians  in  bright  pon- 
chos, who  squat  on  the  ground  and  offer  their  goods  by 
the  handful  or  basketful.  Ounces  and  juninds,  or  their 
corresponding  Spanish  weights,  are  unknown  in  the 
market. 

Quito  is  one  of  the  chief  religious  centres  of  South 
America.  Bells  are  ringing  all  day  from  the  towel's  of 
the  many  churches  and  cathedrals,  and  priests  and  monks, 
passing  through  the  narrow  streets,  pause  to  bless  the 
kneeling  people. 

If  the  church  Ijells  made  the  only  sound  in  the  city, 
the  traveler  might  endure  it;  but  when  to  their  jan- 
gling, the  braying  of  military  bands,  and  the  calling  of 


*Trf 


.1 


.VI 


m  >h 


r 


ti  * 


K     t    J 

1 


308 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


bii^rles  arc  added,  pandemniiium  is  the  lesult.  With 
aeliin^  head,  the  traveler  shakes  off  the  dust  of  noisy 
Quito,  and  hies  him  northward  to  ('oh)nd)ia. 

The  HepulJie  of  ('ok)mhia  oceupies  the  northwestern 
corner  of  South  America.  It  includes  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama  and  the  two  seaports,  Aspinwall  and  Panama. 
Hut  these  towns  seem  to  helong  to  all  the  nations  of  the 
world,  rather  than  to  Colombia.  The  ports  which  are, 
as  the  children  say,  "  its  very  own,"  are  Cartagena  and 
Barran(juilla. 

Both  of  these  cities  lie  ui)on  the  Caribbean  Sea.  Car- 
tagena is  very  old,  and  Harrantiuilla  (juite  new.  Carta- 
gena, and  La  (inayra  in  Venezuela  were  the  i)orts  from 
which  all  the  wealth  of  the  hills  was  transptn-ted  to 
Spain.  INIillions  of  dollars  worth  of  gold  and  silver 
were  brought  from  the  mountains  of  the  interior,  down 
the  Magdaleiia  Hiver  to  Cartagena. 

The  king  of  Si)ain  was  desirous  of  keeping  his  treas- 
ure safe  from  the  many  pirates  and  robbers  of  the  Caril> 
bean  Sea,  and  so  he  built  a  great  wall  around  the  city. 
Tlie  wall  was  so  strongly  built  that  it  is  standing  at  the 
present  day,  as  firm  as  ever.  It  is  of  dark  stone,  is 
twenty  feet  high,  and  is  so  broad  that  forty  horses  could 
walk  abreast  upon  it. 

Cartagena  stands  on  the  eastern  side  of  a  large  arm 
of  the  sea.  During  the  greater  part  of  this  century  it 
has  declined  in  commercial  importance,  because  the 
nearer  entrance  to  its  harbor  has  been  choked  up. 

As  Cartagena  declined,  Barranquilla  grew  in  impor- 
tance. Barranquilla  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Magdalena   River.     It  was  well  placed  for  commerce, 


: 


OPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


309 


I  the  result.     With 

I  the  dust  of  noisy 
[)h)nihiii. 

t's  the  northwestern 
ides  the  Isthmus  of 
iiwall  and  Panama. 

II  the  nations  of  the 
he  ports  which  are, 
'  are  Cartagena  and 


'aribl)ean  Sea.  Car- 
(juite  new.     Carta- 

were  the  i)orts  from 

was  transported  to 
of  gold  and   silver 

■  the  interior,  down 

f  keeping  his  treas- 
■obbers  of  the  Caril)- 
lU  around  the  eity. 
it  is  standing  at  the 
is  of  dark  stone,  is 
it  forty  horses  could 

side  of  a  large  arm 
I't  of  this  century  it 
rtance,  because  the 
3n  choked  up. 
iiilla  grew  in  impor- 
the  mouth  of  the 
aced  for  commerce, 


! 


"' 


■j 


and  offcnsd  a  line  harbor  for  ships.  Cartagena  was  well- 
nigh  deserted  for  a  while. 

Hut  by  and  by  a  great  sand  bar  was  formed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Magdaleiia  River,  opposite  Marraiuiuilla. 
So  its  day  was  over.  It  was  obliged  to  build  a  small 
town  on  the  sand  bar  itself,  where  passengeis  and  goods 
could  be  landed. 

Witliin  the  last  few  years  the  old  town  of  Cartagena 
has  revived  in  importance.  The  obstiu;l(;s  to  its  trade 
have  been  removed,  and  once  more  it  looks  forward  to 
prosi)erity  in  the  near  fiiture. 

Viewed  from  the  sea,  Cartagena  is  a  pretty  town,  with 
its  gray  walls,  yellow  buildings,  and  near  hills  green 
with  cocoa  palms.  The  traveler  will  enjoy  visiting 
many  of  the  old  buildings  and  subterranean  passages  of 
Spanish  times,  although  his  sentiment  may  be  somewhat 
shocked  to  find  palaces  turned  into  tenement  houses, 
and  the  Inquisition  building  become  a  tobacco  factory. 

Bogota,  the  capital  of  Colombia,  is  situated  in  the 
interior  of  the  state,  hundreds  of  miles  from  any  other 
important  city.  It  is  indeed  far  from  the  centres  of 
news  and  trade,  as  it  is  seven  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  the  seacoast,  and  four  days'  journey  from  the 
Magdalena  River. 

The  usual  way  of  reaching  Bogota  is  by  sailing  up 
the  Magdalena,  and  then  following  the  trail  to  Bogota 
on  mules. 

The  Magdalena  is  the  chief  river  of  Colombia.  Its 
water  is  yellow,  like  that  of  the  Mississippi,  owing,  as 
you  know,  to  the  large  amount  of  earthy  matter  that  it 
carries  on  its  way  to  the  sea.     Often  this  earthy  matter 


am 


) .  ■'" 


810 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


m  1 1  !; 


is  deposited,  and  sand  hars  aic  formed  in  many  places 
wliieii  choke  up  the  course  of  the  liver. 

I)nrinj(  the  thy  season,  navifjiition  is  impossible  at 
iiit,dit.  The  'hoatman  is  forced  to  anchoi'  near  the  shore. 
But  in  tlie  rainy  season,  wlien  the  river  is  swollen  so 
that  it  tlo(»ds  the  whole  country  and  buries  d(!e[)  the 
troublesome  sand  l»ars  l)eneath  its  foaming  Hood,  steam- 
ers can,  if  there  is  a  full  moon,  continue  their  course  by 
nififht. 

In  ascendinjif  the  Magdalena,  its  shores  are  lined  with 
swam[)s  for  the  lirst  two  hundred  miles ;  next,  come 
three  hundred  miles  of  low,  alluvial  i)lains,  where  the 
old  plantations  once  nourished.  They  formerly  yielded 
the  cimntry  considerable  profit;  but  when  the  slaves 
were  freed,  the  plantations  fell  into  decay. 

The  sliores  of  the  hnver  Magdalena  are  lined  on  both 
sides  with  alligators.  There  they  lie,  basking  in  the 
sun,  in  ranks  so  ch)se  that  it  seems  possible  to  walk 
upon  them  for  miles  simply  by  stepping  from  back  to 
back. 

After  the  steamboat  trip  comes  the  mule  ride,  over 
the  trail,  up  among  the  Andes.  The  trail  is  laid  out 
in  a  very  eccentric  fashion.  It  makes  sudden  curves 
when  there  is  no  need  for  curves,  and  then  again  darts 
point  blank  up  and  over  a  steep  mountain  that  might  as 
well  have  been  ascended  on  an  easier  slope.  Some  of 
the  road  consists  of  steep  stone  steps  cut  in  the  side  of 
the  mountain  at  an  angle  of  thirty-five  degrees.  Up 
these  steps  the  patient  mules  toil  laboriously. 

Through  many  climes  and  vegetations  the  traveler 
struggles,  until  at  length  he  reaches  his  goal,  the  city 


')  <- 


EOPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


811 


iiu'd  ill  niiany  places 
vcr. 

oil  is  impossible  at 
lelior  near  the  shore. 
!  river  is  swollen  so 
iind  bnries  (l(!c[)  the 
'oamin^  Hood,  steani- 
tiniie  their  course  hy 

shores  are  lined  with 
miles ;  next,  come 
ial  i)lains,  where  the 
hey  formerly  yielded 
lut  when  the  slaves 
decay. 

Mia  are  lined  on  both 
'  lie,  baskinp;  in  the 
ms  possible  to  walk 
!pl)ing  from  back  to 

the  mule  ride,  over 
'he  trail  is  laid  out 
lakes  sudden  curves 
ml  then  again  darts 
luntain  that  might  as 
sier  slope.  Some  of 
eps  cut  in  the  side  of 
ty-five  degrees.  Up 
iboiiously. 

stations  the  traveler 
les  his  goal,  the  city 


of  Bogota,  "half  a  mile  nearer  the  stars  than  the  top  of 
Mt.  Wasliington."  In  all  diivctioiis  over  the  wide  plain 
on  which  Hogota  is  situated,  are  extensive  views  of 
mountains  and  lakes. 

The  architecture  of  Bogota,  with  tlie  narrow  i)aved 
streets  sloping  towards  the  central  gutter,  and  the  achibc 
houses  of  one,  two,  or  three  stories  with  shops  ui)on  the 
lowest  lloor,  we  are  familiar  with  by  this  time.  IMain 
as  many  of  tiie  buildings  api)ear  upon  tlie  outside,  yet 
the  furniture  within  is  often  sur[)iisiiigly  good. 

Many  of  the  houses  have  pianos,  —  pianos  that  have 
been  biouglit  over  tiie  trail  for  long  distances  on  men's 
backs.  How  much  do  you  suppose  it  costs  to  bring  one 
from  the  coast  to  Rogoti?  One  thousand  dollars.  And 
yet  pianos  are  very  iilentiful  here. 

Iloi-se  cars  imported  from  Piiiladelphia  are  used  in  the 
streets.  They  are  brought  from  the  coast  in  sections, 
which  are  carried  over  the  mountains  on  the  backs  ol' 
Indians.  A  car  wheel  forms  quite  a  load  for  one  In- 
dian ;  and  he  is  so  lazy  and  stoics  to  rest  and  sleep  so 
often  during  the  day,  that  it  is  frequentl}  a  month 
before  the  wheel  appears  in  Bogota. 

Owing  to  such  delays,  it  is  some  time  before  all  the 
fractions  of  the  car  arrive ;  but  when  once  the  street 
car  is  set  up  it  becomes  a  very  popular  means  of  con- 
veyance. The  fare  is  ten  cents,  and  the  cars  are  filled 
daily  with  dark  gentlemen  in  white  clothes  and  white 
straw  hats,  smoking  cigarettes  as  they  ride  to  their 
places  of  business. 

Sunday  is  the  gala  day  of  the  week.  After  attending 
mass  in  the  morning,  the  people  give  themselves  up  to 


\U 


■j  i 


:■  ■ ::  I;  i 
J: 

lit  ':i 


m  l^\ 


ili 


312 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


eijjnyiuent  for  tlie  lemiiiiKlcr  of  tlic  day.  They  attend 
tlie  niarkut,  tlu;  tlit'iitro,  or  tlie  bull  lijjiits,  or  proinoiiiulo 
ill  tilt'  plir/ii  and  watch  their  children  liyinj,'  kites. 

The  [teoplv  of  Coloinhia,  like  all  the  South  Aineri- 
caiiH,  have  a  j^neat  admiration  for  the  Tnited  States. 
They  even  j(o  so  far  as  to  cehdmite  o;ir  Washington's 
liirthday  and  Kourth  of  July. 

The  Isthmus  of  Panama  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
Western  Continent.  Vessels  that  sailed  from  Boston 
and  New  York  to  the  gold  coast  of  California  in  1H49 
went  around  Cajie  Horn.  That  was  the  time  when  it 
was  first  proposed  to  cut  a  canal  across  the  narrow  part 
of  the  American  Continent.  Three  different  routes 
were  suggested,  —  one  atiross  Mexico,  a  se(U)nd  across 
Nicaragua,  and  a  third  across  Colombia  at  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama. 

When  the  Suez  Canal,  connecting  the  Red  and  tlie 
Mediterranean  Seas,  was  built  by  M.  I.,es.seps,  and  the 
route  to  India  was  much  shortened  thereby,  fresh  inter- 
est and  belief  in  the  possibility  of  an  American  canal 
was  aroused.  Millions  of  dollars  were  raised  to  carry 
on  the  work,  which  was  entrusted  to  M.  Lesseps. 

The  actual  digging  was  begun  in  1881,  and  Lesseps 
promised  that  the  canal  should  ho,  completed  in  1885. 
Soon  he  extended  the  time  to  1888.  At  the  present 
day  nearly  all  the  money  is  gone,  and  only  one-tenth  of 
the  canal  is  completed. 

The  Isthmus,  the  cities  of  Aspinwall  and  Panama, 
and  the  stations  along  the  route  of  the  canal  are  in  wild 
confusion.  Machinery  and  tools  lie  about  in  all.  direc- 
tions ;  rough  dormitories  for  the  workmen  are  half  com- 


1 


OPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 


818 


(lay.  They  attend 
ijjlits,  or  j)roineiia(le 
1  liyiiijjf  kites. 

till-  South  Aineri- 
tlie  I'liited  States. 
D  our  Washnigton's 

rrowest  part  of  the 
saih^l  from  Hostoii 
California  in  1H49 
4  the  time  when  it 
•OSS  the  narrow  part 
Be  different  routes 
eo,  a  se(U)nd  across 
hia  at  the  Isthmus 

\f  the  Ued  and  the 
\l.  Lesseps,  and  the 
thereby,  fresh  inter- 
an  American  canal 
ere  raised  to  carry 
M.  Lesseps. 
I  1881,  and  Lesseps 
completed  in  1885. 
8.  At  tlie  i)resent 
d  only  one-tenth  of 

iwall  and  Panama, 

le  canal  are  in  wild 

about  in  all.direc- 

kmen  are  half  com- 


pleted ;  and  thousands  of  men  of  nearly  every  race  and 
tonj,'ue  throng  the  Isthmus. 

'i'he  whole  scheme  has  broken  down.  At  the  rate 
that  the  work  has  Ikhmi  progressing  it  will  take  over  onct 
hundred  years  to  linish  it.  It  will  cost  (tne  billion  dol- 
lars and  the  ([uestion  is,  whether  the  (tanal  will  pay  for 
the  immense  exi)ense  of  money,  labor,  and  life.  The 
region  is  unhealthy,  and  many  of  the  workmen  coming 
from  the  West  Indies  die  at  once.  The  African  race 
endures  the  climate  Iwist. 

Aspin\vall  is  a  town  built  upon  a  small,  low  island  on 
the  Atlantic  coast.  It  is  connected  with  Panama  on  the 
Pacific  coast  by  a  railroad. 

The  caucal  across  the  istlnnus  is  the  most  gigantic  fail- 
ure of  the  nineteenth  century.  Whether  it  will  Iks  one 
of  the  gigantic  achievements  of  the  twentieth  century, 
time  will  show.  In  the  meanwhile,  an  American  com- 
pany has  begun  the  proposed  canal  by  way  of  Lake  Nic- 
aragua, and,  at  the  rate  their  work  is  progressing  now, 
they  seem  in  a  fair  way  toward  success. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

VENEZUELA  AND  GUIANA. 

We  have  now  reached  the  last  state  in  South  America 
that  was  settled  by  the  Spaniards.  This  is  Venezuela. 
The  word  Venezuela  is  the  Spanish  for  "little  Venice." 
How  do  you  suppose  Venezuela  came  by  its  name? 


TT?^ 


m 


ii'i 


'^•kiffiiii 


814 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


Tlicro  is,  on  tlu;  iiDitlu'iii  (M)ivst,  ii  lin|,'o  lak(^  cuIUmI 
liiiko  Miira«'iiyl)().  It  is  pcrliiiiw  iiKirc  of  a  marsh  than  a 
hi\i(i,  and  honscs  ai»^  hiiilL  in  it,  su|)|)ortctl  on  pihis  driven 
into  th(!  IhmI  of  tht^  hiko.  'I'hc  wiitcr  chaMMcls  runninj^ 
kitwoen  thi!  linrs  of  honscs,  ivniiiidod  some  imaj^inativo 
poison  of  Venice  ami  its  water  avenues,  and  so  the  state 
was  (InhlHfd  Venezuchi. 

Vcnezuchi  may  he  divided  into  three  rcf,'ions, —  tlio 
coast,  the  mountains,  and  tlie  phiins  of  the  Orinoeo. 
The  mountains  raisi;  their  l)rown,  harren  sunuuits  so  near 
the  sea  that  the  coast  is  but  a  narrow  strip  of  marshes 
and  swatnps. 

The  mangrove  is  a  most  curious  tiee,  which  slioots  off 
branches  to  the  ri^^jht  and  left  that  curve  (h)wn  to  the 
groiuid  and  take  root.  This  tree  grows  thickly  through- 
out the  swamps.  Wherever  the  mangrove  tree  thrives, 
there  is  the  home  of  fevers.  And,  in  fact,  these  swamps 
on  the  coast  of  Venezuela  form  one  of  the  most  nn- 
healthy  regions  in  all  South  Anuu-ica. 

The  ranges  of  the  Andes  that  run  across  the  country 
to  the  south  of  the  Caribbean  Sea,  are  only  one-half  as 
high  as  the  lofty  ranges  in  Peru  and  Bolivia. 

South  of  the  mountains  lies  the  valley  of  the  Orinoco. 
It  consists  of  a  perfectly  flat  stretch  of  country,  as  large 
as  the  New  England  States  with  New  York  and  Penn- 
sylvania added.  It  is  covered  with  strong,  tall  grass, 
and  only  here  and  there  by  the  streams  are  there  any 
trees  whatever.  These  few  trees  are  tall  pf'lms,  which 
wave  their  great  fan  like  leaves  dreamily  in  the  breeze. 

In  the  dry  season  the  sun  shines  ujjou  the  grivss  until 
it  becomes  a  dry  powder,  which  is  blown  about  by  the 


EOPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


.SIT) 


ii  liuj^o  lake  culled 
I'c  III'  ii  lUiirHli  than  a 
ortctl  DM  [lilnH  (Irivi'ii 
T  cliamu'ls  nniiiiiij,' 
j(l  HOUR!  inm^iiialivo 
lies,  ami  so  tho  state 

tlirco  n'f^ioiis, —  the 
ins  of  the  Orinoco. 
1  Ten  snnunits  so  near 
i)\v  strip  of  marshes 

tvoo,  which  shoots  off 
curve  down  to  the 
ows  tiiickly  throuf(li- 
ngrove  tree  thrives, 
n  fact,  these  swamps 
ne  of  the  most  iin- 
a. 

1  across  the  country 
[ire  only  one-half  as 
1  Bolivia. 

alley  of  the  Orinoco. 
;  of  country,  as  large 
Few  York  and  Penn- 
h  strong,  tall  gra.ss, 
reams  are  there  any 
re  tall  pr'lms,  which 
eamily  in  the  breeze. 
ui)on  the  griuss  until 
blown  about  by  tbe 


wind.  Chuids  of  dust  whirl  in  all  directions.  'I'he 
streams  dry  up.  and  many  of  the  jioor  cattle  and  horses 
of  t!icse  plains  die  of  thirst. 

Then,  as  the  Iieat  and  dust  are  at  their  worst,  tliero 
cojues  a  liles.sed  change.  Clouds  gathei'  in  the  sky; 
soon  the  rain  begins  to  fall,  the  brooks  to  gurgle,  and 
the  fresh  gra.ss  to  grow.  Then,  f(»r  a  time,  tlui  wild 
creatures  are  hai»[»y  indeed. 

But,  as  the  weeks  go  I)y,  tlus  streams  leave  their 
channels  and  overflow  the  whole  country.  I'reseiitly 
there  are  several  feet  of  water  flooding  the  plain.  There 
is,  at  one  place,  an  elevation  of  a  few  feet  in  the  plain, 
which  forms  the  watershed  between  the;  Orinoco  and 
the  streams  flowing  to  the  northwest.  'I'lm  catth;  and 
horses  which  have  taken  refuge  on  this  slight  ri.se  are 
safe,  but  those  which  have  not  are  drowned.  At  one 
season  of  the  year  the  poor  beasts  have  too  nuich  water, 
and  at  another  season  too  little. 

After  the  Amazon  and  the  La  Plata,  the  Orinoco  is 
the  largest  river  in  South  America.  You  nuist  trace  its 
course  on  the  map,  and  [ticture  to  yourselves  the  many 
streams  that  come  dancing  down  the  eastern  slopes  of 
the  Andes  to  unite  and  flow  across  the  level,  grassy 
plains  to  the  marshy  coast  and  the  open  sea. 

The  earthy  matter  that  the  Oi-inoco  carries  along  with 
it  chokes  its  mouth,  and  so  a  delta  is  formed  there. 
The  main  stream,  through  which  alone  the  large  vessels 
can  pass,  is  the  southernmost  channel.  Boats  that  do 
not  sink  more  than  ten  feet  deep  in  the  water  can  use 
the  upper  channels.  The  delta  is  covered  with  thick 
forests,  something  like  those  of  the  Amazon.     The  trees 


ur-y^r 


\i 


Hi 


Kir 


|if'' 


".'■i 


n 


1  '  I 


!:| 


::'  t, 


'4,1 


816 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


art!  (M)vei'eil,  and  woll  nigh  Hinotlicrcd,  with  uliintiiiig 
vincH. 

AftiM'  the  (h'ltft  is  j)asso<l,  in  asopndinjj  tho  Oiinooo, 
the  trees  vanish,  and  tiie  lonely,  nioiiotonons  upper 
eourse  of  the  Orinoco  hei^'ins.  There  are  very  lew 
villages  or  cities  on  the  hanU,  and  a  milling  vessel  or 
a  i)oat  is  a  very  rare  siglit. 

Sonutinn's  at  ni^dit  a  jj^ieat  column  of  flauio  and 
smoke  rushes  across  the  plain,  ^deamin<,'  red  and  bril- 
liant in  tlu  darkness.  This  is  a  (ire  which  the  (twners 
of  cattle  have  kindled.  Hvery  year  they  burn  the  grass 
in  order  that  tla^  next  growth  may  Im;  richer  and  better. 

La  (inayra,  tlm  c^hief  seaport  of  V^enezuela,  has  no 
advantage  of  position  whatevr.  It  looks  as  if  it  were 
forever  sliding  down  the  mountains  into  tl>e  sea.  Ita 
bay  is  so  open  that  the  great  ocean  swells  make  it  one 
of  the  worst  harbors  on  the  Western  Continent.  Fjirther- 
more,  thci  bed  of  the  sea,  a  few  hundred  feet  from  the 
shore,  slopes  so  abruptly  that  anchors  are  of  no  use; 
and  in  places  where  anchors  (h)  hold,  the  sand  is  apt  to 
shi"  "o  that  they  have  to  be  raised  and  tlieir  positions 
adjusted  every  ftiw  hours. 

lia  (Juayra  was  crowded  in  here  on  the  hillside,  and 
along  the  narrow  (ioast,  to  servo  as  the  port  of  Caracas, 
the  capital  of  Venezuela. 

J^a  Cluayra  resend)les  Valparaiso  and  liahia  in  situa- 
tion, although  its  harbor  is  not  so  good  as  either  of 
theirs.  The  business  blocks  which  border  the  single 
street  are  from  two  to  three  stories  in  height.  The 
houses  which  straggle  up  the  barren  hillsides  are  lower, 
and  hav(!  reddish  brown  roofs,  which  ire  the  exact  color 
of  the  hills. 


:OPLE. 

•red,  witli  cliiiilniig 

'iidiiig  tlui  Oiinoeo, 
iiKUiotonous   upper 

"liciv  iiiv  vt'iy  low 
a  siiiliiijf  vessel  or 

uimi  of  fldino  and 
imiii",'  led  and  bril- 
I'  wliicli  tlie  owners 
tliey  burn  the  grass 
M)  richer  and  better. 
V\'nezuehi,  lias  no 
;.  looks  as  if  it  were 
s  into  the  sea.  Its 
1  swells  make  it  one 
'ontinent.  Kurther- 
idred  feet  from  the 
ors  are  of  no  use ; 
1,  the  sand  is  apt  to 
I  and  their  positions 

on  the  hillside,  and 
ho  port  of  Caracas, 

and  liahia  in  situa- 
I  good  as  either  of 

border  the  single 
es  in  height.     The 

hillsides  are  lower, 
I  .ire  the  exact  color 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


:n7 


The  climate  of  La  (inayra  is  exceedingly  hot.  It  is 
HO  situated  thai  it  is  sheltered  from  all  but  west  winds, 
which  are  the  warmest  winds  that  blow.  Still  the 
climate  is  ln'althfid,  and  the  yellow  fever  is  not  wunv. 
prevalent  here  than  elsewhere.  'I'lie  one  great  scourge 
of  La  (luayra  is  llcas.  'I'hose  troublesome  little  iMse(!ts 
are  everywhere^;  and  every  pei-son,  whether  a  native  or 
a  l'(U-eiguer,  is  their  victim. 

There  are  three  roads  leading  over  the  mountains  to 
Caracas.  Kirst,  there  is  the  old  footpath;  st-cond,  the 
mule  and  wagon  road;  and  third,  the  railroad,  which 
has  only  been  established  of  late  years.  An  interesting 
little  story  is  connected  with  tlu!  lirst  two  ways. 

Over  three  hundred  years  ago  when  the  ICnglish  and 
Spaniards  were  bitter  enemies  in  the  Old  World,  their 
ahips  useil  to  carry  on  war  in  the  New.  Whenever 
an  Knglish  cruiser  fell  in  with  a  Spanish  galleon  ciuiy- 
ing  treasures  of  gold  and  silver  to  Sjiain,  she  attacked 
and  plundered  it.  Tlu'  lOnglish  have  always  been  a 
nation  of  strong,  line  .sailors;  and  at  this  period  there 
way,  among  them  a  wonderful  company  of  nea  i-ajitains, 
so  bold  that  they  were  often  (ialled  sea  kings. 

Sir  Krancis  Drake  was  the  most  adventurous  of  them 
all.  He  was  really  what  we  should  call  a  pirate  nowa- 
days; but  then  peoidc  thought  so  differently  that  he 
seemed  to  the  English  nation  one  of  their  best  and 
greatest  men,  and  all  his  wicked  deeds  seemed  heroic. 

It  is  apt  to  make  a  difference  jn  your  opinion  of  a 
person  whether  he  is  acting  for  your  side  or  against  it. 
One  very  slight  excuse  for  the  lawless  acts  of  the  Kng- 
lish was  that  the  Spaniards  were  acting  in  the  same 
way,  whenever  they  got  the  chance. 


Tnr 


I 


i  < 


318 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


On  account  of  the  Spanish  and  English  pirates,  the 
Caiihhean  Sea,  or  tlie  Spanish  main,  as  it  was  called, 
was  nuich  dreaded  hy  all  peaceful  sailois.  Such  terrihle 
battles  as  were  frequently  waged  in  this  legion !  The 
war  spread  to  the  mainland;  and  whenever  they  could, 
the  English  would  land  and  rob  and  burn  a  Spanish 
town.  La  (luayia  was  often  taken ;  but  the  real  wealth 
of  Venezuela  was  not  there,  but  in  Caracas. 

Sir  Francis  Drake  determined  to  attack  the  latter  city. 
He  heard  that  a  great  party  of  men  were  being  fitted 
out  in  Caracas  to  come  and  meet  him.  Judging  cor- 
rectly that  they  would  come  by  the  wagon  road,  he 
secured  a  guide,  who  led  him  and  his  men  by  the  old 
Indian  footpath  to  Caracas. 

All  the  able-bodied  Spaniards  were  away,  marching 
down  the  wagon  road ;  so  the  capital  was  defenceless. 
Drake's  band  burned,  robbed,  and  killed,  and  finally 
returned  by  the  same  path  to  the  seacoast,  bearing  im- 
mense loads  of  gold.  The  wily  Englishman  was  more 
than  a  match  for  the  Spaniards. 

The  usual  way  of  going  to  Caracas  at  the  present 
time  is  by  the  railroad  around  and  over  the  Andes. 
Recall  the  account  of  the  railroads  in  Peru,  and  you 
will  have  an  excellent  idea  of  the  difficulties  and  dan- 
gers of  the  way.  The  Caribbean  Sea  is  in  sight  through 
most  of  the  journey,  and  the  views  are  all  wide  and 
interesting. 

Caracas  is  situated  at  the  northern  end  of  a  narrow 
valley.  Its  climate  is  almost  perfect.  Though  so  near 
the  e<iuator,  it  is  cool  and  pleasant  Iwcause  of  its  high 
and  breezy  situation  among  the  mountains. 


1 


EOPLE. 


OUR  amlrichn  neighbors. 


319 


English  piiates,  tho 
in,  as  it  was  Ciilled. 
,il()is.  Such  terrihle 
II  this  ix'gioii !  The 
henevcr  they  coukl, 
mil  burn  a  Spanish 
but  the  real  wealth 
Caracas. 

ittack  the  latter  city. 
m  were  being  fitted 
him.  Judging  cor- 
A\e  wagon  road,  he 
his  men  by  the  old 

ere  away,  marching 
tal  was  defenceless. 
I  killed,  and  tinally 
;eacoast,  l)earing  im- 
iglishman  was  more 

acas  at  the  present 
id  over  the  Andes. 
s  in  Peru,  and  you 
difficulties  and  dan- 
a,  is  in  sight  through 
's  are  all  wide  and 

rn  end  of  a  narrow 
it.  Though  so  near 
liecause  of  its  high 
nitains. 


One  old  Englishman,  who  has  been  a  minister  to  many 
capitals  of  Mexico  and  South  America,  when  relieved 
from  his  duties  on  account  of  age,  preferred  to  make  his 
residence  in  Caracas,  rather  than  in  any  Englisii  or 
other  Spanish  vVmerican  city  with  which  he  was  famil- 
iar. He  said  it  was  a  paradise  on  eartii,  and  tiiat  he 
preferred  to  spend  his  last  days  there. 

Tlie  streets  of  Caracas  are  narrow,  but  unusually 
clean.  The  liouses  are  of  one  story,  and,  wliat  is  a  little 
unusual,  their  roofs  are  peaked.  Tlie  most  attractive 
part  of  the  homes  are  the  inner  courts,  whicli  are 
adorned  with  flowers,  plants,  and  shrubs.  The  strong 
odor  of  tuberoses  is  often  wafted  through  an  open  door- 
way out  upon  the  street. 

Caracas  was  the  birtliplace  of  General  Bolivar,  tlie 
liberator  of  Spanish  America.  The  whole  city  is  filled 
with  mementoes  of  him.  Squares  and  streets  bear  his 
name.  The  Plaza  Bolivar  lies  before  the  Yellow  House, 
as  the  home  of  the  president  is  called. 

This  plaza  has  for  its  chief  ornament  a  fine  statue  of 
Bolivar  riding  a  prancing  horse.  There  is  also  a  bronze 
column  marked  with  the  single  word  "Washington." 
The  father  of  our  country  is  much  honored  in  South 
America,  and  everywhere  streets  and  shops  bear  his 
name. 

The  Westminster  Abbey  of  Caracas  is  an  old  cathe- 
dral which  has  been  selected  for  this  purpose.  In  the 
place  of  the  altar  is  a  magnificent  monument  to  Bolivar. 
It  is  of  marble,  and  bears  a  life-size  statue  of  the  gen- 
eral, surrounded  with  various  figures  of  beautiful  women, 
representing  plenty,  justice,  and  other  qualities.      An 


ff^ry 


li 


:r 


f  1 

r 


320 


THE   WORLD  AND    ITS    PEOPLfc. 


L'lcjrant  ohamlolier  lian<j,s  over  tlie  tnnih,    andelahra  aro 
placed  on  each  side,  and  near  l)y  stand  a  line  of  book 
eases,  containing,'  the  books  of  all  languages  which  have 
been  written  about  IJolivar. 

Free  schools  and  (elci)hones  have  been  lately  intro- 
duced into  Venezuela.  Both  the  white  and  black  races 
attend  school,  and,  so  far,  the  blacks  have  shown  them- 
selves the  (luickcst  and  the  readiest  to  learn. 

The  women  appreciate  the  telephone.  It  is  a  great 
privilege  to  them,  in  their  secluded  lives,  to  be  able  to 
do  shopping,  and  to  talk  with  one  another  over  the  wires. 

The  V^cnezuelans  are  excjuisitely  i)olite.  It  is  almost 
embarrassing  to  an  American,  used  to  the  incivility  of 
the  clerks  v)f  his  own  country,  to  lind  a  storekee[)er 
tiianking  him  for  permission  to  show  goods,  and  bowing 
him  out,  whether  he  has  purchased  or  not,  with  grace- 
fully expressed  wishes  for  his  health  and  hapi)iness. 

Guiana  is  not  independent  like  the  other  states  of  South 
America;  it  is  composed  of  the  colonies  of  three  Kuro- 
pean  nations,  —  England,  Holland,  and  France.  There 
are  many  penal  settlements  along  the  coast  and  upon 
the  neighboring  islands,  where  European  and  African 
convicts  have  been  l)rought  from  time  to  time. 

At  fii-st  the  convicts  are  under  more  or  less  restraint. 
Hut  after  two  years  of  goml  Iwhavior  they  are  allowed 
to  send  for  their  families,  and  are  allotted  a  tract  of 
land.     Thus  they  become  settlers. 

Of  late  yeai-s  most  of  the  French  convicts  have  been 
sent  to  New  Caledonia,  an  island  in  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
where  the  climate  is  lK>tter  adapted  to  Europeans  tJian  is 
that  of  (Juiana.    The  African  convicts  are  still  sent  here. 


OPLfc. 

mil),    andelahra  are 
ind  a  line  of  book 
iguages  which  have 

)  been  hitely  Intro- 
lite  and  bhick  races 
have  shown  them- 
;o  learn. 

one.  It  is  a  great 
lives,  to  be  able  to 
ther  over  the  wires, 
lolite.  It  is  almost 
to  the  incivility  of 
lind  a  storekeeper 
goods,  and  bowing 
i)r  not,  with  grace- 
and  hapi)iness. 
ttlier  states  of  South 
lies  of  three  Kuro- 
nd  France.  There 
he  coast  and  upon 
ipean  and  African 
\i  to  time, 
e  or  less  restraint, 
r  they  are  allowed 
allotted  a  tract  of 

convicts  have  been 
the  Pacific  Ocean, 
)  Europeans  tlian  is 
i  are  still  sent  here. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


321 


From  the  very  nature  of  the  sevei-al  colonies,  it  fol- 
lows that  men  of  all  colors,  nations,  and  tongues  are 
found  in  Guiana.  Fnglish,  French,  Dutch,  German, 
Portuguese,  Italian,  Chinese,  negroes,  natives  of  Pales- 
tine, of  India,  of  the  West  Indies,  and  of  the  Azores, 
all  may  be  seen  in  the  streets  of  Georgetown  and  Cay- 
enne. There  have  l)een  also  very  many  Ili/idoos  here 
since  the  freeing  of  tlie  slaves.  Laborers  have  been 
difficult  to  hire,  and  the  Hindoos  have  come  to  satisfy 
the  demand.  So  it  is  not  an  unusual  sight  to  see  a 
great  East  Indiaman,  carrying  hundreds  of  coolies, 
entering  Georgetown  harbor. 

The  coast  of  Guiana  ])resents  a  great  contrast  to  that 
of  Venezuela;  because,  instead  of  shelving  abrui)tly 
down,  it  slopes  away  so  gradually  into  the  ocean  that 
the  whole  shore  is  lined  by  sand  banks  and  marshes. 

The  country  is  very  flat.  It  is  almost  like  another 
Holland.  It  has  to  be  protected  from  the  sea  and  t!ie 
rivers  in  many  places  by  dikes ;  and  tall  palms  and  the 
chimneys  of  sugar  manufactories  tower  above  the  flat 
surface  of  the  country,  as  the  lofty  windmills  do  on  the 
level  meadows  of  Holland.  Indeed,  Ijoth  Paramaribo, 
the  capital  of  Dutch  Guiana,  and  Georgetown,  which 
was  once  owned  by  the  Hollanders,  resemble  the  Dutch 
cities  in  many  ways. 

The  streets  are  prim  and  clean,  and  have  canals  run- 
ning through  them.  The  houses  are  placed  with  their 
gable  ends  toward  the  street,  are  painted  white,  and 
have  peaked  roofs  and  queer  little  dormer  windows. 

Georgetown  is  situ-^ted  at  the  mouth  of  the  Demarara 
River,  close  by  the  sea.     The  climate  is  so  moist  and 


'Yfiff'''W 


i 


[| 


K 


?!;;• 


§1  A 


822 


THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


hot  that  it  seems  iis  if  one  were  in  a  perpetual  Turkish 
bath.  The  Europeans  wear  the  thinnest  clothing,  and 
live  through  the  hot  day  in  the  hopes  of  a  cool  breeze 
at  evening.  .  Ice  is  inii)orted  from  the  United  States. 
It  is  a  great  luxury,  and  costs  two  cents  a  [)ound. 

One  of  the  most  charming  walks  in  Georgetown  is 
along  the  sea  wall.  This  is  a  broad  dike  separating  the 
city  from  the  sea.  It  is  wide  enough  for  seats  to  be 
placed  upon  it,  and  long  enough  to  serve  as  a  delightful 
promenade.  A  carriage  road  closely  follows  the  sea 
wall,  and,  at  one  point  in  the  driveway,  a  band  plays  on 
certain  days  in  the  week. 

No  one  who  has  not  lived  through  an  intense  trppical 
day  can  realize  how  refreshing  the  evening  breeze  seems, 
how  beautiful  the  stars  look,  or  how  soothing  the  music 
sounds  to  the  European  who  is  forced  to  stav  day  after 
dtiy  in  a  climate  so  unnatural  to  him. 

One  celebrated  botanical  curiosity  can  be  seen  near 
Georgetown.  In  an  unused  canal  east  of  the  capital 
grows  the  immense,  rose-colored  lily,  called  the  Victoria 
regia.  Its  blossom  is  two  feet  across.  Its  leaf  is  four 
feet  in  diameter,  and  can  support  an  Indian  baby  laid 
upon  it. 

Sugar,  rum,  and  molasses  are  the  chief  products  of 
Guiana.  Its  coasts  and  rivers  are  bordered  with  sugar 
plantations,  which,  being  situated  in  the  lowest  part  of 
the  country,  are  generally  surrounded  by  dikes.  A 
plantation  forms  a  small  kingdom  by  itself.  It  is  not 
so  very  small  a  kingdom  either ;  for  it  fi-equently  con- 
tains as  many  as  two  thousand  acres,  which  are  tilled, 
by  vwelve  hundred  laborei-s. 


EOPLE. 


OUR  AMERICAN    NEIGHBORS. 


323 


a  perpetual  Turkish 
innest  clothing,  ami 
ipes  of  a  cool  breeze 
.  the  United  States. 
;ents  a  [)ound. 
:s  in  Georgetown  is 
dike  separating  the 
ugh  for  seats  to  be 
serve  as  a  delightful 
ely  follows  the  sea 
my,  a  band  plays  on 

1  an  intense  trppical 
keening  breeze  seems, 
r  soothing  the  music 
3d  to  stav  day  after 
I. 

by  can  be  seen  near 
east  of  the  capital 
,  called  the  Victoria 
ss.  Its  leaf  is  four 
m  Indian  baby  laid 

e  chief  products  of 
^ordered  with  sugar 
1  the  lowest  part  of 
ided  by  dikes.  A 
by  itself.  It  is  not 
r  it  frequently  con- 
es, which  are  tilled. 


Paramaribo,  the  capital  of  Dutch  Guiana,  is  situated 
ten  miles  from  the  mouth  of  one  of  tlie  many  turlnd 
streams  of  this  province.  It  is  a  silent,  sleepy  place, 
that  in  some  ways  calls  to  mind  Amsterdam  or  Leydeii. 

The  houses  have  high  pitched  roofs  covered  with 
tiles,  dormer  windows,  and  old-fasliioned  Dutch  stoops, 
or  porches,  at  the  sides  of  the  houses,  where  the  family 
can  gather  to  enjoy  the  refreshing  breeze  of  the  evening. 
The  doors  are  painted  green,  and  have  bright  brass 
knockers. 

The  streets  are  quiet.  There  are  no  rattling  horse 
cars,  and  but  few  hackney  coach  stands.  A  silent  canal 
flows  through  the  centre  of  the  street;  there  are  no 
sidewalks,  and  the  road  is  paved  with  sand  and  bits  of 
shells,  which  glitter  dazzlingly  in  the  brilliant  sunshine. 

We  might  believe  we  were  in  dear  old  Holland,  if  it 
were  not  for  the  dense,  tropical  forest  of  waving  cabbage 
and  cocoa  palms  across  the  river,  and  the  negroes  in 
their  cool,  white  clothes.  The  negro  women  carry  great 
piles  of  dishes  or  jars  upon  their  heads,  with  as  much 
graceful  ease  as  do  the  Indian  women. 

Cayenne,  the  capital  of  French  Guiana,  is  built  upon 
an  island,  only  fifteen  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  houses  are  scarcely  visible  from  the  ocean  on  ac- 
count of  the  many  shade  trees  of  the  city. 

The  glory  of  Cayenne  is  Cabbage  Palm  Square.  This 
is  a  group  of  palm  trees,  rivaling  in  grandeur  and  beauty 
Palm  Tree  Avenue  in  the  Botanical  Gardens  of  Rio 
Janeiro.  There  are  five  hundred  palms  of  an  average 
heigiit  of  eighty  feet.  They  are  planted  in  eight  rows, 
about  twenty  feet  apart.     With  their  upright,  straight 


Tpr 

1        "i       : 

'              %'   ' 

■    5f 

324 


THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


trunks,  they  look  like  the  reguhir  piUa,^  in  some  m-eat 
hall,  .such  iLs  the  temple  of  Karnac  at  Theljes.  Each 
trunk  1.S  .jurmounted  hy  a  i)erfeet  crown  of  leaves. 

There  is  one  tree  which  is  the  great  curiosity  of  the 
s(iuare.  It  is  a  double  palm  tree.  At  alwnt  twenty 
teet  from  the  ground  the  trunk  divides,  and  two  per- 
fectly healthy  shafts  rise  sixty  feet  in  the  air;  each  is 
topped  by  a  fine  crown.  The  tree  is  the  wonder  of  all 
who  see  it. 

Whether  whirling  over  the  city  streets,  or  perching  in 
these  palm  trees,  the  vulture  is  the  commonest  object 
m  the  streets  of  Cayenne,  unless  we  except  the  French 
soldier,  who,  in  blue  coat  and  white  hat,  daily  fills  the 
city  with  life  and  merriment. 

In  the  interior  of  Guiana  some  gold  has  [yeen  found, 
and  now  that  machinery  has  b«en  introduced,  the  people 
are  beginning  to  mine  in  earnest.  No  one  can  tell  what 
buried  wealth  may  be  hidden  in  the  unknown  central 
districts.  Perhaps  there  may  be  as  much  as  ever  Sir 
Francis  Drake  and  other  Englishmen  took  from  the 
Spaniards  in  those  fierce  conflicts  in  the  Spanish  main. 
Who  knows  ?    We  must  wait  and  see. 


°EOPLE. 

[lillare  in  some  great 
vc  at  Thebes.  Each 
i-own  of  leaves. 
H'eat  curiosity  of  the 
!.  At  alK)ut  twenty 
ivides,  and  two  per- 
'  in  the  air;  each  is 
is  tile  wonder  of  all 

treets,  or  perching  in 
le  commonest  object 
3  except  the  French 
e  hat,  daily  fills  the 

)Id  has  l)een  found, 
troduced,  the  people 
^o  one  can  tell  what 
le  unknown  central 
8  much  as  ever  Sir 
len  took  from  the 
I  the  Spanish  main. 
le. 


w^m 


